« AnteriorContinuar »
It would be unjust to the Magistra- perceptibly from most journals, and cy, if the Committee were to conclude the perusal of it rather produces the their labours without calling the atten- same effect as a smart walk before tion of the society to the liberality and breakfast, in company with a lively proper feeling with which the plan of friend who hates long stories. this repair has been submitted to the The writer of this little volume, view of the public before its adoption, too, is a Lady, and writes like one, a course demanded, no doubt, by the with ease, gracefulness, and vivacity. increasing taste and intelligence of the Above all, there is something truly times, but still deserving of public delightful in the colour of her stock gratitude where it occurs, and peculi- inys; they are of the purest white, arly a subject of acknowledgment from and much more becoming than the this society, whose object it has a ten- brightest blue.
She prattles away dency so materially to advance. very prettily in the true English
The Committee have now only to re- idiom, and has evidently learned her commend, that a respectful memorial, language from living lips, rather than framed on the principles of this re
from dead dictionaries. Though a port, should, without any delay, be travelling lady, and therefore entitled transmitted to the Magistrates of E- to understand all tongues, she very dinburgh and Barons of Exchequer, modestly confines herself to the Engand made public in such way as shall lish ; and we are not the less disposbe determined hereafter by those per- ed to believe, that she understands the sons whom the society may appoint to languages of other countries, from obcarry this resolution into effect. They serving that she writes well that of likewise submit, that a copy of this re
Now and then a French port should be transmitted to Mr El phrase drops sweetly enough from her liot.
fair mouth, but the fear of bad gramEdinburgh, 18th June 1818.
mar is before her eyes, and she has never ventured on a whole sentence. In all this, and much more, she is a
perfect contrast to that tiresome old HISTORY OF A SIX WEEKS' TOUR woman Mrs Spence, who two sumTHROUGH FRANCE, &c.* mers ago talked her way through the
Highlands of our Scotland, and set There is little information, no reflec- the ghost of Ossian himself asleep on tion, and very few incidents, in this the top of Benevis. volume, and yet it somehow or other Thire is also something original in produces considerable amusement and the plan of travelling adopted by the interest. It is the simplest and most fair Tourist. She is not like our friend unambitious journal imaginable of a above-mentioned, a sour, solitary spinContinental Tour; and probably in ster-she is a sweet-blooded wedded that simplicity consists its principal wife. Her youth has, she says, been attraction. There is no formal ap- chiefly past in pursuing, like the swalpearance of a largely-promising pre- low, the inconstant summer of delight face ; none of that assumed stateliness and beauty which invests this visible of intellect so ludicrous in your mo- world. And, on the present occasion, dern imbecil tourist; none of those with her husband (there is no travelcommon-places which, like so much ling companion like a husband,) and dead luggage, impede the motion of her sister, she passes on foot through the vehicle; no steeple-hunting in part of France and Switzerland, and large towns-no talk of antiquities in sails down the castled magnificence of every paltry village. When we lay the Rhine. Her heart is at all times down the volume, we are not much open to gladness and kindly feeling; the wiser; but we are wholly free and we think that no one will part from that drowsiness that steals so im- with so amiable and agreeable a com
panion, without regret, and sincere
wishes for her future happiness. * History of a Six Weeks' Tour through a part of France, Switzerland, Germany,
The passage from Dover to Calais is and Holland ; with Letters descriptive of a
very spiritedly sketched ; and we canSail round the Lake of Geneva, and of the not but admire the obstinate good huGlaciers of Chamouni. London, T. Hook.
mour of the writer, in sleeping away ham, jun. 1817.
“ The evening was most beautiful ; there the circumference of a few fields, bright and was but little wind, and the sails flapped in waving with the golden harvest.
We met the flagging breeze: the moon rose, and several travellers ; but our mode, although night came on, and with the night, a slow novel, did not appear to excite any curiosity heavy swell, and a fresh breeze, which soon or remark. This night we slept at Guignes, produced a sea so violent as to toss the boat in the same room and beds in which Napo very much. I was dreadfully sea-sick, and leon and some of his generals had rested as is usually my custom when thus affected, during the late war.
The little old woman I slept during the greater part of the night, of the place was highly gratified in having awaking only from time to uime to ask where this little story to tell, and spoke in warm we were, and to receive the dismal answer praise of the Empress Josephine and Marie each time-Not quite half way.'
Louise, who had at different times passed on “ The wind was violent and contrary ; if that road. we could not reach Calais, the sailors pro- “ As we continued our route, Provins posed making for Boulogne. They pro- was the first place that struck us with intermised only two hours' sail from shore, yet It was our stage of rest for the night ; hour atter hour passed, and we were still far we approached it at sunset.
After having distant, when the moon sunk in the red and gained the summit of a hill, the prospect of stormy horizon, and the fast-flashing light- the town opened upon us as it lay in the ning became pale in the breaking day. valley below; a rocky hill rose abruptly on
" We were proceeding slowly against the one side, on the top of which stood a ruined wind, when suddenly a thunder squall struck citadel with extensive walls and towers ; the sail, and the waves rushed into the boat: lower down, but beyond, was the cathedral, even the sailors acknowledged that our situ- and the whole formed a scene for paintation was perilous; but they succeeded in ing. After having travelled for two days reefing the sail ;-the wind was now chang- through a country perfectly without ined, and we drove before the gale directly to terest, it was a delicious relief for the eye to Calais. As we entered the harbour, I awoke dwell again on some irregularities and beaufrom a comfortless sleep, and saw the sun ty of country.
Our fare at Provins was rise, broad, red, and cloudless, over the pier.” coarse, and our beds uncomfortable, but the
On the 30th of July 1814, the party remembrance of this prospect made us conleft Calais very picturesquely, in a ca
tented and happy. briolet drawn by three horses.
“ We now approached scenes that re“ To persons who had never before seen
minded us of what we had nearly forgotten, any thing but a spruce English chaise and
that France had lately been the country in post-boy, there was something irresistibly
which great and extraordinary events had ludicrous in our equipage. A cabriolet is
taken place. Nogent, a town we entered shaped somewhat like a post-chaise, except about noon the following day, had been enthat it has only two wheels, and consequent
tirely desolated by the Cossacs. Nothing ly there are no doors at the sides; the front could be more entire than the ruin which is let down to admit the passengers. The these barbarians had spread as they advancthree horses were placed abreast, the tallested; perhaps they remembered Moscow and in the middle, who was rendered more for the destruction of the Russian villages ; but midable by the addition of an unintelligible we were now in France, and the distress article of harness, resembling a pair of wood
of the inhabitants, whose houses had been en wings fastened to his shoulders; the har. burned, their cattle killed, and all their nesses were of rope ; and the postilion, a
wealth destroyed, has given a sting to my queer, upright little fellow with
a long pig- have not travelled through a country pillag,
detestation of war, which none can feel who tail, craquèed his whip, and clattered on, while an old forlorn shepherd with a cocked ed and wasted by this plague, which, in his hat gazed on us as we passed.”
pride, man inflicts upon his fellow.” They hurry on to Paris, and, after On their arrival at Troyes, the mule a week's stay there, resolve to walk appears to have, like the ass, lost fathrough France, with the assistance of vour in their eyes, and the lady's husan ass to carry their portmanteau and band has sprained his ankle. So they one of them by turns. At Charenton bought an open voiture that went on the ass proves useless, and a mule is four wheels for five Napoleons, and purchased.
hired a man and a mule for eight “ I rode on the mule, which carried also more, to convey them to Neufchâtel our portmanteau ; S*** and C***. followed, in six days. We believe, that most bringing a small basket of provisions. At pedestrian journies with females are about one we arrived at Gros Bois, where, under the shade of trees, we ate our bread apt to assume this shape. Passing and fruit, and drank our wine, thinking of through Vandeuvres and Bar-sur Aube Don Quixote and Sancho.
they reached Bensançon.
Here we “ The country through which we passed
are informed that the hills so utterly was highly cultivated, but uninteresting; scared the voiturier who came from the the horizon scarcely ever extended beyond plains of Troyes, “ that he, in some
degree, lost his reason.” The follow- They are now in Switzerland, -dising little adventure shews, that though miss their voiturier and his mule, and he had lost his reason, the fair writer engage a Swiss cottager and his horse. was determined to keep her temper,
“ The mountains after St Sulpice benor can we imagine a more perfect pic- came loftier and more beautiful. We passture of unruffled placidity.
ed through a narrow valley, between two
ranges of mountains, clothed with forests, “ Our voiturier insisted on remaining two at the bottom of which flowed a river, from hours at the village of Noè, although we whose narrow bed on either side the bound. were unable to procure any dinner, and aries of the vale arose precipitously. The wished to go on to the next stage.. I have road lay about half way up the mountain, already said, that the hills scared his senses, which formed one of the sides, and we saw and he had become disobliging, sullen, and the overhanging rocks above us and below, stupid. While we waited, we walked to the
enormous pines, and the river, not to be neighbouring wood: it was a fine forest, perceived but from its reflection of the light carpeted beautifully with moss, and in vari- of heaven, far beneath. The mountains of ous places overhung by rocks, in whose cre. this beautiful ravine are so little asunder, vices young pines had taken root, and spread that in time of war with France an iron their branches for shade to those below; the chain is thrown across it. Two leagues from noon heat was intense, and we were glad to Neufchâtel we saw the Alps : range after shelter ourselves from it in the shady re. range of black mountains are seen extend. treats of this lovely forest.
ing one before the other, and far behind “ On our return to the village we found, all, towering above every feature of the to our extreme surprise, that the voiturier
scene, the snowy Alps. They were an had departed nearly an hour before, leaving hundred miles distant, but reach so high in word that he expected to meet us on the the heavens, that they look like those accuroad. S***'s sprain rendered him incapable mulated clouds of dazzling white that ar. of much exertion ; but there was no reme- range themselves on the horizon during dy, and we proceeded on foot to Maison
Their immensity staggers the Neuve, an auberge, four miles and a half imagination, and so far surpasses all condistant.
ception, that it requires an effort of the un. “ At Maison Neuve the man had left derstanding to believe that they indeed form word that he should proceed to Pontalier, a part of the earth.” the frontier town of France, six leagues dis
At Neufchâtel they are delayed tant, and that if we did not arrive that night, he should the next morning leave the voi
some days by want of money, but ture at an inn, and return with the mule to obtaining about £38 in silver, upon Troyes. We were astonished at the impu- discount from one of the bankers of dence of this message ; but the boy of the the city,” they journey towards the inn comforted us by saying, that by going Lake of Uri, and arrive at Lucerne. on a horse by a cross road, where the voiture “ The lake of Lucerne is encompassed could not venture, he could easily overtake on all sides by high mountains, that rise and intercept the voiturier, and accordingly abruptly from the water ;-sometimes their we despatched him, walking slowly after. bare fronts descend perpendicularly, and We waited at the next inn for dinner, and cast a black shade upon the waves ;-somein about two hours the boy returned. The times they are covered with thick wood, man promised to wait for us at an auberge whose dark foliage is interspersed by the two leagues further on. S***'s ankle had brown bare crags on which the trees have become very painful, but we could procure taken root. In every part where a glade no conveyance, and as the sun was nearly shews itself in the forest, it appears cultisetting we were obliged to hasten on. The vated, and cottages peep from among the evening was most beautiful, and the scene- woods. The most luxuriant islands, rocky ry lovely enough to beguile us of our fa- and covered with moss, and bending trees, tigue: the horned moon hung in the light are sprinkled over the lake. Most of these of sunset, that threw a glow of unusual are decorated by the figure of a saint in depth of redness over the piny mountains wretched wax-work. and the dark deep vallies they enclosed ; at " The direction of this lake extends at first intervals, in the woods, were beautiful lawns from east to west, then, turning a right interspersed with picturesque clumps of trees, angle, it lies from north to south; this latand dark pines overshadowed our road. ter part is distinguished in name from the
“ In about two hours we arrived at the other, and is called the lake of Uri. The promised termination of our journey, but former part is also nearly divided midway, the voiturier was not there: after the boy where the jutting land almost meets, and had left him, he again pursued his journey its cray y sides cast a deep shadow on the towards Pontalier. We were enabled, how- little strait through which you pass. The ever, to procure here a rude kind of cart, summits of several of the mountains that and in this manner arrived late at Pontalier, enclose the lake to the south, are covered where we found our conductor, who blun- by eternal glaciers ; of one of these, oppodered out many falsehoods for excuses ; and site Brunen, they tell the story of a priest thus ended the adventures of that day.” and his mistress, who, flying from persecu
tion, inhabited a cottage at the foot of the voyage down the Rhine from Basle to snows. One winter night an avalanche over- Mayence. whelmed them, but their plaintive voices “ Before we slept, S*** had made a barare still heard in stormy nights, calling for gain for a boat to carry us to Mayence ; succour from the peasants.
and the next morning, bidding adieu to “ Brunen is situated on the northern side Switzerland, we embarked in a boat laden of the angle which the lake makes, forming with merchandize, but where we had no the extremity of the lake of Lucerne. Here fellow-passengers to disturb our tranquillity we rested for the night, and dismissed our
by their vulgarity and rudeness. The wind boatmen. Nothing could be more magnifi. was violently against us, but the stream, cent than the view from this spot. The aided by a slight exertion from the rowers, high mountains encompassed us, darkening carried us on; the sun shone pleasantly, the waters ; at a distance, on the shores of S*** read aloud to us Mary WollstoneUri, we could perceive the chapel of Tell, craft's Letters from Norway, and we passed and this was the village where he natured
our time delightfully. the conspiracy which was to overthrow the “ The evening was such as to find few tyrant of his country; and indeed this love- parallels in beauty; as it approached, the ly lake, these sublime mountains, and wild banks, which had hither to been flat and unforests, seemed a fit cradle for a mind aspir- interesting, became exceedingly beautiful. ing to high adventure and heroic deeds. Suddenly the river grew narrower, and the Yet we saw no glimpse of his spirit in his boat dashed with inconceivable rapidity present countrymen. The Swiss appeared to
round the base of a rocky hill covered with us then, and experience has confirmed our pines ; a ruined tower, with its desolated opinion, a people slow of comprehension windows, stood on the summit of another and of action ; but habit has made them hill that jutted into the river ; beyond, the unfit for slavery, and they would, I have sunset was illuminating the distant mounlittle doubt, make a brave defence against tains and clouds, casting the reflection of its any invader of their freedom.”
rich and purple hues on the agitated river. At Lucerne, or in the neighbour. The brilliance and contrasts of the colours hood, they would willingly have re
on the circling whirlpools of the stream, mained for a month or two, but they beautifuithe shades grew darker as the
was an appearance entirely new and most became anxiously alarmed at the con
sun descended below the horizon, and after sumptive look of the £28, and resolve
we had landed, as we walked to our inn to return to England ; so they depart round a beautiful bay, the full moon arose on the 28th of August, in the diligence with divine splendour, casting its silver light par-eau for Loffenburg, a town on the on the before-purpled waves. Rhine.
“ The following morning we pursued our
journey in a slight canoe, in which every “ Our companions in this voyage were of motion was accompanied with danger ; but the meanest class, smoked prodigiously, the stream had lost much of its rapidity, and were exceedingly disgusting. After and was no longer impeded by rocks; the having landed for refreshment in the middle banks were low, and covered with willows. of the day, we found, on our return to the We passed Strasburgh, and the next mornboat, that our former seats were occupied ; ing it was proposed to us that we should we took others, when the original possessors proceed in the diligence par-eau, as the naangrily, and almost with violence, insisted vigation would become dangerous for our ed upon our leaving them. Their brutal small boat. rudeness to us, who did not understand “ There were only four passengers besides their language, provoked S*** to knock one ourselves, three of these were the students of the foremost down : he did not return of the Strasburgh university: Schwitz, a the blow, but continued his vociferations rather handsome, good tempered young until the boatmen interfered, and provided man ; Hoff, a kind of shapeless animal, us with other seats.
with a heavy, ugly German face ; and “ The Reuss is exceedingly rapid, and Schneider, who was nearly a ideot, and on we descended several falls, one of more than whom his companions were always playing eight feet. There is something very deli- a thousand tricks: the remaining passengers cious in the sensation, when at one moment were a woman, and an infant. you are at the top of a fall of water, and “ The country was uninteresting, but we before the second has expired you are at the enjoyed fine weather, and slept in the boat bottom, still rushing on with the impulse in the open air without any inconvenience. which the descent has given.”
We saw on the shores few objects that called Such are a few specimens of this forth our attention, if I except the town of tourist's journal. She despatches Ger- Manheim, which was strikingly neat and
clean. It was situated at about a mile many and Holland with the same ease
from the river, and the road to it was plant. and rapidity as France and Switzer
ed on each side with beautiful acacias. The land. We conclude our extracts with last part of this voyage was performed close the following lively account of their under land, as the wind was so violently VOL. III.
against us, that, even with all the force of a Of those who wake and live. I look on high; rapid current in our favour, we were hardly Has some unknown omnipotence unfurled permitted to proceed. We were told (and The veil of life and death? or do I lie not without reason) that we ought to con- In dream, and does the mightier world of gratulate ourselves on having exchanged sleep our canoe for this boat, as the river was Spread far around and inaccessibly now of considerable width, and tossed by Its circles ? For the very spirit fails, the wind into large waves. The morning, Driven like a homeless cloud from steep to a boat, containing fifteen persons, in at
steep, tempting to cross the water, had upset in That vanishes among the viewless gales ! the middle of the river, and every one Far, far above, piercing the infinite sky, perished. We saw the boat turned over, Mont Blanc appears,--still, snowy, and seHoating down the stream.
This was a melancholy sight, yet ludicrously commented Its subject mountains their unearthly forms on by the batelier ; almost the whole stock Pile around it, ice and rock ; broad vales of whose French consisted in the word seule
between ment. When we asked him what had hap- of frozen floods, unfathomable deeps, pened, he answered, laying particular em- Blue as the overhanging heaven, that spread phasis on this favourite dissyllable, C'est And wind among the accumulated steeps ; seulement un bateau, qui etoit seulement ren- A desert peopled by the storms alone, versèe, et tous les peuples sont seulement Save when the eagle brings some hunter's ntoyès.'
bone, At Rotterdam their last guinea is And the wolf tracts her there-how hideously expended, and they arrive at Graves- Its shapes are heaped around ! rude, bare, end on the 13th of September, where, we presume, they had friends able and Ghastly, and scarred, and riven. Is this the willing to pay for their passage. It
Where the old Earthquake-dæmon taught appears, therefore, that they performed a tour of about sixteen hundred Ruin ? Were these their toys ? or did a sea miles in little more than six weeks, Of fire envelope once this silent snow ? and their expenses amounted to £98, None can reply—all seems eternal now. independently of what they borrowed The wilderness has a mysterious tongue at Gravesend, the amount of which is Which teaches awful doubt, or faith so mild, not stated. The journal of this flying So solemn, so serene, that man may be tour consists only of about eighty very Thou hast a voice, great Mountain, to repeal
But for such faith with nature reconciled ; short pages, and really one is quite out Large codes of fraud and wo; not understood of breath at the end of it. Our fair friend, and her husband By all, but which the wise, and great, and
good and sister, were so delighted with this Interpret, or make felt, or deeply feel.” tour, that in the summer of 1816 they revisited the continent, and we have several very lively and well-written letters from Geneva, Lausanne, &c. but from which our limits will not al
MR EDITOR, low us to make any extracts. The
The enclosed Translations from the Swiss scenery is often therein describ- German were printed about a year ed with something of a poetical fer- since in a Dublin Magazine, the cir, vour; and the volume concludes with culation of which was very limited a little poem by the husband, which,
even in Dublin. If they find a place though rather too ambitious, and at in your valuable Magazine I shall be times too close an imitation of Colemuch gratified. If such translations ridge's sublime hymn on the vale of
are desireable, I can occassionally send Chamouni, is often very beautiful. In
you some from Schiller, Körner, &c. the following passage there is some darkness and confusion, as if the writ
I am, sir, your faithful humble servant,
N. R. er were grappling with objects above
Trinity College, Dublin, his strength, but there is grandeur June 11th, 1818. both of thought and expression,-indubitable indications of a truly poetical mind.
(From the German of Klopstock.) “ Some say that gleams of a remoter world Visit the soul in sleep,—that death is slum- EBERT, a dark and melancholy thought ber,
Hath seized me;-yainly o’er the sparkling And that its shapes the busy thoughts out
Thou bidd'st me cherish happier images ;
TRANSLATIONS FROM THE GERMAN.