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PREFACE

TO THE SEVENTH YEAR'S ISSUE OF "HARPER'S HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELERS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST."

THE remarkable success of "Harper's Hand-book," first published in 1862, has fully realized the expectations of both author and publishers, the instance being very rare where a traveler has crossed the Atlantic without a copy in his possession or in that of one of his party. The reason of this great success is very evident: first, this is the only complete guide-book published in one volume in the English language, and the only one in the United States; second, it is not compiled from hearsay and books which are out of date, and of no possible use to the traveler, but prepared by the author every year from his personal experience up to the moment of going to press, his time in Europe being wholly devoted to that purpose. The greater portion of this volume is entirely new, and distinct from the last year's edition, while the residue has been revised and corrected up to the present moment.

To travel without a guide-book in any part of Europe is utterly impossible; a man without one being like a ship at sea without a compass-dragged round the country by a courier, and touching only at such points as it is the courier's interest to touch, stopping at such hotels as it is his interest to stop. You should purchase guide-books or remain at home.

The great objection to foreign guide-books is their number. To make the tour of Europe (even a short one of a few months), the traveler has formerly been compelled to purchase some twenty-five or thirty volumes (if published in the English language), at a cost of sixty or seventy dollars, and suffer the inconvenience of carrying some twenty-five pounds of extra baggage, and over one hundred volumes (if in the French language), one house alone in Paris publishing one hundred and twenty volumes. As the majority of American travelers do not remain over six months on the Continent, they dislike to be compelled to carry about a small library, when with the aid of Bradshaw's valuable "Continental Railway Guide" and the present volume all their wants may be supplied.

The intention of the author of "Harper's Hand-book" is to give a distinct and clear outline, or skeleton tour, through the principal cities and leading places of interest in France, Germany, Russia, Turkey, Italy, Egypt, Syria, Palestine, Switzerland, Tyrol, Spain, Great Britain, and Ireland; to give the modes and cost of traveling the different routes by land or water, and which lines are to be preferred; the precautions to be taken to insure comfort and security; the names and charges of the leading hotels; the names of the most responsible houses from

which to make purchases; all the items in reference to the transportation of baggage, and the innumerable number of small charges which tend to swell the account of traveling expenses. By a careful attention to the tariff in such cases, the traveler will find himself the gainer by fifty per cent.

The author also intends to give the names of the principal works of art by the leading masters in all the different European galleries, with the fees expected by the custodians. In short, he intends to place before the traveler a good net-work of historical and other facts, pointing out where the reader may obtain fuller information if he desire it.

Of course it is impossible for perfect accuracy to be obtained in a work of this description; for while the author is watching the completion of the beautiful mosque of Mehemet Ali in Cairo, or the exquisite restorations that are being made at the Alhambra in Granada, a new bridge may be erected at St. Petersburg, or a new hotel opened at Constantinople; but to keep the information contained herein as nearly accurate as possible, the author, in addition to having made arrangements in the different cities to keep him acquainted with any important changes that may be made, requests that all mistakes or omissions noticed by travelers may be transmitted to him at the Grand Hotel, Paris, for which he will be extremely thankful.

CONTENTS.

For full Particulars of Routes, Historical Sketches, Excursions, small Cities, Towns, etc.,
see General Index at the End of this Volume.

HINTS TO TRAVELERS WHICH SHOULD BE CAREFULLY READ BEFORE LEAVING THE UNITED

STATES.

Baggage, Hotels, Letters of Credit, Bankers, Passports, Passages, Clothing, Diplomatic
and Consular Officers, Skeleton Tours, Expenses, Books of Travel, etc.

ITINERARY OF PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE NILE...

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INTRODUCTION.

CONTAINING HINTS TO TRAVELERS WHICH SHOULD BE CAREFULLY READ BEFORE LEAVING THE UNITED STATES.

As our nation is emphatically one of travelers, and as the number is yearly increasing, the proportion to other nations is to an extent far beyond the belief of the casual observer. For instance, the author has seen at one time sitting in the courtyard of the Hôtel du Louvre, Paris, twenty-nine Americans, two Frenchmen, three Englishmen, and one Russian; he has seen at the Mediterranean Hotel, in Jerusalem, thirteen Americans, one Englishman, two Frenchmen, and three Spaniards; and at Shepheards' Hotel, at Cairo, over one half of the visiters were Americans; and what wonder, when the clements, air, fire, and water, answer to our call, to transport us from shore to shore in from ten to twelve days.

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It behooves us to travel with other stores besides our purse and passport. man must carry knowledge with him if he would bring knowledge home." Every body has now an excuse to travel: if rich, to enjoy; if poor, to retrench; if sick, to recover; if studious, to learn; if learned, to relax from study. All should remember that not the least important requisite for a traveler is a ready stock of good temper and forbearance. Let your motto be, "Keep cool." Goodhumor will procure more comforts than gold. If you think you are imposed upon, be firm; custom has established certain charges, and any deviation from them is scon detected, and, unless unnecessary trouble has been given, firmness and good temper will serve you better and more readily than violence.

We, as a nation, have unfortunately acquired a reputation abroad of great prodigality in our expenditures, and in the East we are charged twenty per cent. more than any other nation for what we purchase; still, it is an unhappy feeling to think that we must always be on our guard. Many set out with that deeply to be regretted impression, and are rendered miserable by imagining they are the victims of imposition wherever they go, and by degrees become despicably mean, and grumble at every charge which they do not understand. Tristram Shandy's reflections on this subject are worth quoting: "Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder-box which was filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five pauls for two hard-boiled eggs, once at Radicofané, and a second time at Capua, I do not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man can keep his temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you believe. There must

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