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The principal

building is the Cathedral, with two high towers. The interior is richly decorated with marbles; was finished in 1754. Notice the adjoining cloisters, with some very ancient frescoes.

Notice the parish church, which dates | united to Tyrol in 1802. back to the 15th century: at its principal entrance are two lions in red marble; it has an elegant carved pulpit. Behind the high altar may be seen the monument of the Archduke Rainer, with an inscription by himself. Near the church is the public cemetery, which is well worth a visit. No-west of the town, and surrounded by an

tice in the southwest corner the family vault of Giovanelli, from designs by Schnorr.

From Botzen to Innspruck by rail in 6 hours, and from Botzen to Verona in 6 hours. This is the first rail communication across the Alps, opened Aug.,'67, and is one of the grandest works of modern engineering. This road affords the most direct communication between Italy and Germany.

After passing the small village of Atzwang, which contains nothing worthy of note, we arrive at Klausen, a small town with a single street, which skirts the banks of the river. On a high precipice above the town stands the Convent of Seben: it is of very ancient date, and was originally a Rhætian fortress; after that a Roman castle. In the 13th century it became the seat of the archbishop. On the northern tower, which is nearly 600 feet above the road, may be seen a crucifix: it marks the spot where one of the nuns, during the French invasion, after having been pursued from chamber to chamber by some brutal soldiers, leaped from the rock, as the only means of preserving her vow of chastity unbroken. The Capuchin Convent, outside the town, is one of the richest in the Tyrol: it was founded by the queen of Charles II. of Spain, whose confessor was a native of Klausen, and on whose account the queen bestowed much riches on the establishment, such as mass robes and other church ornaments, jewels, books, and pictures. In 1797, during the French war, the women and girls of the vicinity took a very active part in defending the various passes against the advance of the enemy. The Emperor of Austria sent them a letter expressing his thanks for their timely as sistance.

Brizen, situated in a very picturesque position, amid luxuriant vegetation, contains 3500 inhabitants. The town itself is by no means cleanly. Hôtel Sonne. It was for nine hundred years the capital of an ecclesiastical principality, and is still the residence of an archbishop. It was

The episcopal palace, which lies south

immense garden, is a beautiful building, and well worth a visit. There are numerous convents in the town, one of which is English.

Before arriving at Sterzing, we pass one of those numerous defiles so advantageous to the Tyrolese in defending their country against invasion. Notice a small chapel on the roadside, which marks the spot where the French advance guard, under Joubert, were defeated. Near this same spot, in 1703, the Bavarians, under the prince elector, Max Emanuel, were defeated by the Tyrolese.

Sterzing, a very pretty town, and formerly very wealthy, owing to the rich silver and copper mines which at one time existed here. It contains 2200 inhabitants. Hotels Post and Krone. The parish church, just outside the town, contains abundant proofs of the wealth of the miners, and of the former wealth of the inhabitants. The mines, however, are now exhausted, and the town depends nearly altogether on the through travel.

On the op

From Sterzing we now make the ascent of the Brenner, along the banks of the Eisach. From the summit of the pass there is little to be seen, the road being completely shut in with high hills. Notice, behind the inn, a small rushing stream; this gives birth to the Eisach. posite side of the road is a cascade formed by the River Sill. After passing the village of Steinach, most of which was destroyed by fire in 1853, the route is very beautiful, and at Schönberg the scenery is considered the finest in the Tyrol. Innspruck, in the deep valley which you now see from the tops of the surrounding mountains, looks exceedingly grand.

From Innspruck to Munich, via Kuffstein and Rosenheim. Time, 6 h. Fare, 1st class, 8 fl.; 2d class, 5 fl. 30 kr. At Kuffstein, a powerful frontier fortress between Tyrol and Bavaria, baggage and passports are examined. At Rosenheim you change cars, both for Munich and Vienna.

Salzburg, the capital of the Austrian prov-stroyed by fire, the emperor erected a modince of that name, and formerly the seat of ern building on the site, and the grounds a sovereign archbishopric, is finely situated have been thrown open for a public promon the River Salza, which flows into the Inn. enade. Population 19,000. There is not much in the town to detain the traveler, although the situation is of surpassing beauty. Hotel de l'Europe, one of the most beautifullysituated and best-kept houses in Austria. Jaque Heinzlman is a good commissioner, and may be found at the Europe.

The Cathedral is an imposing structyre, built in the Italian style of architecture during the early part of the 17th century. On the right, as you enter, notice a fine bronze font of the 13th century; also, in front of the entrance, a statue of the Virgin.

The castle, or Hohensalzburg, which crowns the heights on the left bank of the river, was built in the 11th century, and served, during the Middle Ages, both as a residence and strong-hold for its warlike bishops. It is now used as a barrack. Some of the rooms, however, have been restored to their original splendor. Notice the torture chamber, where thousands of Protestants suffered on account of their re formed religion. The view from Mönchsberg, the name of the ridge of rock on which the castle is built, is a most glorious one. It was tunneled by the Archbishop Sigismund in 1767. The archbishop had formerly another palace on the opposite side of the river called Mirabel; being de522

Visit the collegiate church of St. Peter and its cemetery. Under the arcades, notice the monument, by Schwanthaler, erect. ed to the Polish Countess Lanckoronska. Here, also, is the tomb of Michael Hayden, brother of the great composer. Near the Hofbrunnen (a very beautiful fountain), notice the bronze statue of Mozart, by Schwanthaler. In erecting this monument numerous Roman mosaics and antiques were found, which may be seen in the Museum.

The excursions in the vicinity of Salzburg are very numerous. The principal are the palace of Helbrunn: the water-works are most curious; the salt mines of Hallein, and that most lovely of all excursions, to Berchtesgaden and the Lake Konigs. This last excursion will require a whole day. The scenery of this lake is wonderfully grand and magnificent, surrounded as it is by a wall of mountains rising nearly eight thousand feet on every side; the water is green, deep, and limpid. Excursionists generally take a boat, which is rowed by women, and go as far as St. Partholomew, a hunting-seat belonging to the King of Bavaria, in whose territory the lake lies, where travelers are furnished with refreshments. Time, 14 hours; each rower 36 kr., and boat 16 kr.

MUNICH.

BAVARIA.

[GERMANY.]

Bavaria consists of two distinct divisions of territory, which cover an area of 29,628 square miles, and contains five millions of population. The larger division is bounded on the south and east by the German provinces of Austria; on the west by the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and the duchy of Baden; and on the north by the smaller German states. The smaller portion is to the westward of the Rhine, and bordering on the French frontier. It has a mean elevation of sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, is two hundred miles long, and one hundred and fifty wide. The greater portion of Bavaria is within the basin of the Danube, which crosses the country from west to east, and is watered by that river and its numerous affluents. The climate is in general temperate and salubrious.

Bavaria is particularly noted for the good quality of its beer, which is far superior to that of any other country; in fact, its flavor is entirely different; but you must drink it in Munich. The quantity drunk and brewed is incredible. Allowing twenty-five million gallons to be exported every year, the quantity brewed would leave seventeen gallons per annum to every man, woman, and child in the kingdom.

MUNICH.

It contains 166,000 inhabitants, including a garrison of 4000 soldiers. Its hotels (and they are equal, if not superior, to any in Germany) are Bayerischer Hof (Bavarian Hotel), Zu den Vier Jahreszeiten (The Four Seasons), and the Englischer Hof (English Hotel). This last is finely situated on Brienner Street, or Wittelbacher Square, in a most beautiful part of the city, in the immediate vicinity of the picture and sculpture galleries, the king's palace, and the principal sights of the city. The rooms are all large and finely furnished. The house is most admirably conducted by the proprietor, Mr. Chr. Schafroth. The Bavarian is an immense establishment, situated on Promenaden Platz, one of the finest positions in the city. The rooms are all large, spacious, and cheap. American and English papers are kept in the reading-room; hot and cold baths in the house; servants speaking all languages; and, what is best, when you know you must remain at least a week in the city to "do" it well, having the director doing every thing in his power to make you comfortable. The house is under the able direction of M. Gustave Schnauffer. The Four Seasons is very finely situated in the Neu Maximilian Street, near the Place Max Joseph and the Theatre. This street is the fashionable promenade, and contains the finest houses in Munich, and perhaps in Germany. It was built at the express command of the

The population of Bavaria does not increase so rapidly as in other German provinces, principally owing to the law regulating marriages, which says that "no mar-King of Bavaria, and is now considered the riage between people without capital shall be allowed without the permission of the poor institutions." If any of the superintendents of the poor, whose duty it is to keep a careful watch on persons wishing to evade this law, should be derelict in their duty, they are answerable for the maintenance of the families arising from the union, should they not be able to maintain themselves. The law is unquestionably a good one to prevent improvident unions, but on the score of morality it is questionable, as in Munich half the births are illegitimate.

Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is situated on the left bank of the River Isar, nearly 1700 feet above the level of the sea.

first promenade in or around the city. This spacious hotel is entirely new, and furnished in the most fashionable style. The house has one peculiarity, and it would be well if all other houses in Europe would adopt the plan, viz.: Your bill, in detail, is sent to your room every night; not that you should pay it every day, but every day you can remember what you ordered during the day, and can correct the error at once, should there be one, which you might not be able to do at the end of the week; the amount is carried forward every day. If you do not care about items, you need only look at the last day's bill, which will give you the sum total. The dining saloons,

coffee, billiard, and smoking rooms, are very elegant. M. August Schimon's heirs are the proprietors. The terms are very mod

erate.

two persons, 42 kr.; 1 hour, 1 fl. 12 kr. ; 2 hours, 1 fl. 36 kr.

During the night there is an extra charge of 3 kr. for every quarter of an hour for the lanterns. After 10 o'clock the fare is double. It is not customary, nor is it expected in Munich, to give pour boire to the driver.

Munich is considered, in proportion to its size, one of the finest cities of Europe; and, perhaps, with the exception of Florence and Madrid, shines conspicuously above all the others in regard to its extensive collections It is impossible to give the time at which of works of art, principally brought togeth- the different sights of Munich may be viser under the care of Ludwig I., late king ited, as it is continually being changed, of Bavaria, who, to the Dusseldorf Gallery, but it is published in a daily paper, the removed here by Max Joseph, and the Man- Tagesanzeiger, to which we refer travelers. heim collection, transferred to Munich by The four most important places, however, the Elector Palatine, added the galleries of we can give, viz., Die Residenz, or Royal Nuremberg, Bamberg, Augsburg, Wallen- Palace, every day, at different times: a stein, and Boisserée. It is also rich in pub- valet de place indispensable. The Pinalic buildings of various kinds, and has nu- cothek, or Picture-gallery, every day but merous gardens, squares, and monuments. Saturday, from 9 until 3 in summer, and In this last it shines most conspicuous: the from 9 in winter. The New Pinacothek is genius of Schwanthaler, Stiglmayer, and closed Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, Miller, as well as the great facilities for cast- and the Glyptothek, or Sculpture-gallery, ing monuments in bronze, has been appre-open every Monday, Wednesday, and Friciated in many of the cities of Europe as well as America. In literature it also stands prominent, and its public library is, next to that of Paris, the largest in the world.

To see Munich thoroughly, and to save time, one should employ a valet de place. In fact, without one it is impossible to see the royal palace-at least the whole of it: a good and honest one may be found in George Haeckl, at the "Four Seasons."

Carriage-hire in Munich is very reasonable. There are two kinds of conveyances, the fiacre and droschken. The fiacres are carriages with two horses, and have seats for four persons. This class of carriage charges for one or two persons to and from the railroad dépôt, 15 kr.; for three or four persons, 24 kr. A droschken, for one or two persons, to or from the dépôt, 12 kr. In the city or the suburbs, by the hour, the following is the tariff: hour, one or two persons, 15* kr.; three or four persons, 24 kr. hour, one or two persons, 36 kr.; three or four persons, 36 kr. 4 hour, one or two persons, 36 kr.; three or four persons, 1 fl. 1 hour, one or two persons, 48 kr.; three or four persons, 1 fl. 12 kr. For every quarter of an hour 12 kr. additional. The droschken charges by the hour, or parts of hours, the following: hour, for one or two persons, 15 kr.; hour, for one or two persons, 24 kr.; 1 hour, for one or

60 kreutzers-1 florin 49 c. U. S. cur.

day. The Library and Statue of Bavaria may be visited every day.

The Residenz, or Royal Palace of Munich, is divided into three parts, the Alte Residenz, or Old Residence; the Keonigsbau, or New Residence; and the Festsaalbau, or Salle des Fêtes. The Old Palace was finished in 1616 by Maximilian I.; and when the conqueror Gustavus Adolphus entered Munich, he above all admired this palace, and wished that could remove it to Stockholm on wheels! The front of the palace has two handsome entrances, decorated with statues of Wisdom, Bravery, Justice, and Temperance, with four bronze lions bearing shields with the arms of Bavaria and Lorraine. In the centre niche stands the Virgin Mary, the patron saint of Bavaria. The Old Palace incloses four courts, viz., the Kaiserhof, Küchenhof, Capellenhof, and Brunnenhof. This last takes its name from a handsome bronze fountain, which is ornamented with mythological divinities-Vulcan, Neptune, Juno, and Ceres--which represent the four elements, with groups of Tritons and aquatic animals. A bronze statue of Otho de Wittelsbach, the founder of the present house of Bavaria, armed cap-à-pie, stands on a marble pedestal on the heads of rams. Under the arch through which you pass in going from the Brunnenhof to the Capellenhof, notice a large black stone fastened

by a chain, and three large spikes driven | Annunciation, placed above the entrance, into the wall at different heights. This is by Peter Candid. The roof is gold and stone and these nails are monuments of the blue; the walls of Florentine mosaic; the strength and agility of the Duke Christo- floor of amethyst, jasper, and marble. The pher, son of Albert III., and other Bavarian high altar is of solid silver, also the side princes, as the description in verse on the altars. In ebony caskets are contained wall testifies. This immense stone, weigh- any quantity of saintly relics, such as ing 364 pounds, the duke took up and hurl- heads, hands, and toes. A Descent from ed to a great distance. The upper nail the Cross, in bas-relief, by Michael Angemarks the spot where his heel struck in lo; a small portable altar, highly enamleaping from the ground (12 feet); the sec- eled, formerly in possession of Mary Queen ond nail, 9 feet, marks the spot touched of Scots, which she used during her cap, by Prince Conrad; and the third by Prince tivity, and which she carried to the scafPhilippe. This occurred in the year 1490. fold. One of her attendants brought it to What degenerate jumpers we are nowa- Pope Leon XI., who presented it to Maxidays! We now arrive at Grottenhof, or milian I., elector of Bavaria. Grotto Court, which was formerly used as a summer garden, and was ornamented with tropical plants and water-works. No tice in the centre of the garden a bronze statue of Perseus, with the head of Medusa.

The Kaiserzimmer, or the apartments of Charles VII., are well worth a visit, to show in what luxury the ancient rulers of Bavaria lived. These rooms consist of a reception saloon, dining saloon, throne room, bedroom, cabinet of mirrors, and cabinet of miniatures. They also contain some very fine pictures, and were selected by Napoleon for his private use when here. In the chambre à coucher examine with care the curtains and coverings of the bed, worked with gold; they cost 800,000 florins, and forty persons were steadily em

After visiting the Antiquarium, which contains a fine collection of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and German antiquities, we pass into the Schatzkammer, or Treasury. Notice the genealogical tree, and the portraits of the princes and princesses of the house of Wittelsbach. This collection of royal jewels was commenced by the Dukeployed fifteen years in embroidering them! Albert V., and enriched by his successors. It is, by the laws of the state, unalienable. It embraces an incredible amount of valuables and precious stones. Among the diamonds is the great blue brilliant in the ornament of the order of the golden fleece; the Palatine pearl, half white and half black; the crowns of the Emperor Henry the Saint and his Empress Kunigunda; that of the Elector Frederick V., king of Bohemia, captured at the battle of Prague in 1620; that of Maximilian Joseph, and of his queen Caroline; complete toilet sets of the Empress Amelie in enamel, and of the Empress Josephine in lapis-lazuli. Notice the equestrian statue of St. George and the Dragon; also, on the table in the centre of the saloon, a copy of the Emperor Trajan's monument at Rome. It was ordered by the Elector Charles Theodore, and took twenty years of Valadier's life to finish it.

The Rich Chapel (Reiche Capelle) was dedicated to the Virgin in 1607, by Maximilian I., and is most rich in ornaments, relics, treasures, and precious stones. The

The bed stands inside a small inclosure. Bonaparte, while here, did not sleep on the bed, but used his camp-bed, which was set up for him alongside the royal couch, and inside the inclosure. There are several other chambers connected with this suite which are not shown. The throne-room is now used by the young princes for a billiard saloon, and the room adjoining (not shown) for a bowling saloon. This suite of rooms is entirely ignored by all the European guide-books, for what reason we can not understand. We think them the most interesting rooms in the palace.

The Festsaalbau, or Salle des Fêtes, fronts on the Hofgarten, and is that part of the palace used for the state apartments and for all court festivities. Its front is 800 feet long, was erected between the years 1832 and 1842, in the Palladian style, after the designs of L. von Klenze, and is one of the most magnificent works of the present day. It is to be seen between the hours of 3 and 4 P.M. Visitors generally assemble for this purpose over the state apothecary's apartments, and are all taken

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