Imágenes de página
PDF
ePub

ty days to empty, but fills in that many quary, who was murdered in an inn here hours.

Before reaching Adelsberg we pass the capital of Illyria, Laybach. It contains 17,000 inhabitants, but has not much to interest the traveler. The city is grouped round the castle hill, the castle being converted into a state prison. The town coptains several handsome public edifices, among which are the Cathedral, Town Hall, St. James's Church, Prince Auersberg's palace, which contains the Landes Museum, and is filled with a very good native collection. It is celebrated in diplomatic history for the congress held here in 1821. About 25 miles to the westward are the rich quicksilver mines of Idria. Passengers direct for Venice by rail change cars at Nebresina.

Trieste, the commercial capital of the Austrian empire, is situated on the Adriatic, near its northeast extremity. It contains 85,000 inhabitants. Hotels are H. de la Ville (the best), H. de France, Locanda Granda, and Victoria. Trieste is a free port, and is one of the most important and interesting commercial places of the Adriatic Sea. It has completely supplanted Venice, and monopolized nearly the whole of the Adriatic trade. Ship-building is carried on to a great extent, and there are important manufactories of various kinds. Trieste has no natural harbor, but a canal enables vessels of considerable tonnage to penetrate within the heart of the town, and load or unload at the doors of the inhabitants. It has also a large mole, constructed of regular masonry, which serves as a protection for the shipping. The city is divided into old and new town by the Corso, which is the principal street, and on which are situated the principal stores and coffee-houses. It communicates with two public squares, the Piazza Grande and Borsenplatz, in the former of which is a fine public fountain, with the column and statue of Charles VI., to whom, and Maria Theresa, Trieste is principally indebted for its importance.

by an Italian to whom he had shown a gold medal which had been awarded to him by the government at Vienna. Fouché, minister of police for Napoleon, died here in 1820, and was buried under the terrace before the cathedral.

The Exchange, standing in the Exchange Place, is a very beautiful building. The Casino club is situated here, to which gentlemen can easily be introduced. The finest church in the city is that situated at the head of the great canal. It contains a magnificent altar, and its organ is considered one of the best on the Continent. The church of the Jesuits is a noble building, and contains some fine paintings. The traveler should by no means neglect to drop in at the Tergesteum. It contains the rooms of the Austrian Lloyd's, a bazar, concert and ball room, reading-rooms and conversation-rooms, all fitted up in the most magnificent style. The Piazzetta de Ricardo received its name from its having been the place where Richard Cœur de Lion was confined on his return from the Holy Land.

The population of Trieste is very Oriental in its appearance, derived as it is from all the commercial nations of the Mediterranean - Greeks, Italians, Jews, Armenians, Germans, and Americans.

The Austrian Lloyd's are a very numerous line of steamers running to all parts of the Mediterranean, starting daily, weekly, and semi-weekly. Boats leave every evening for Venice at 12 o'clock-time, 8 hours-arriving at Venice at 8 o'clock next morning. Fare, $4. They leave once a week for Constantinople; twice a month for Alexandria; once a week to the Danube; once a fortnight to Syria, by Rhodes and Cyprus, to Beirut and Jaffa; once a week to Dalmatia and Croatia; once a week to Istria; and once a week to the Ionian Islands and Greece.

We would be particular in advising travelers to be up early on the morning they arrive at Venice-say by half past six-else they will miss some most splendid views.

The Cathedral of San Giusto, in the old town, is situated on the hill near the castle. It is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Jupiter. It is in the Byzantine style, and dates back to the fourth century. It contains the tomb of Winkelman the anti-miles from Trieste.

Should travelers wish to go direct to Venice from Vienna by rail, they must change cars at Nebresina, a distance of 12

VENETIA.

[ITALY.]

VENETIA.

passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope in 1486 by the Portuguese.

"THE celebrated name of Venice, or Ve- | All this declined after the discovery of the netia, was formerly diffused over a large and fertile province of Italy. It was divided into two parts, first and second, of which the first applied to the main land, and the second to the islands and lagoons. In the first, before the irruption of the barbarians, 50 Venetian cities flourished in peace and prosperity. Aquileia was placed in the most conspicuous station; but the ancient dignity of Padua was supported by agriculture and manufactures. The second part, placed in the midst of canals at the mouth of several rivers, was occupied in fisheries, salt-works, and commerce."

"The Lombardo-Venetian kingdom was one of the most valuable possessions under the Austrian sceptre. The northern part of this territory is mountainous, the south flat, forming the plain of Lombardy. The whole country abounds with rivers, all of which have a southerly course except the Po, and all contribute their waters to the Adriatic. At the foot of the Alpine chains, in the north of Lombardy, are the lakes of Garda, Como, Maggiore, Lugano, Iseo, etc. The shores of the Adriatic are lined with extensive lagoons, in the midst of which is Venice." The climate, except in the vicinity of Mantua and near the Adriatic, is considered healthy. The thermometer keeps higher in summer, and, as a general thing, sinks lower in winter in Lombardy than in England; and more rain falls here than in any other portion of the Austrian dominions. In Venice the annual amount is estimated at 34 inches, and in Lombardy at 45 inches: the rains are heavier in the autumn and winter than at any other seaThe spring is considered the most delightful time to visit this country: cloudless skies and a genial climate of course add much to the pleasure.

son.

Venetia was formerly a celebrated republic of Italy; it is now a province of United Italy. The republic was formed soon after the building of the city in the fourth century. The government was at first democratic, but in 1247 became an aristocracy; none could afterward have any share in it but the nobles: the Doge was the chief executive officer, and was elected by a plurality of votes by means of gold and silver balls. In 1797 the city of Venice was taken by the French, who instituted a provisionary democratic government; but soon after, by the treaty of Campo Formio, the city and territory lying to the north and west of the River Adige was ceded to Austria as a duchy, and also Large sums of money are spent in keepas an equivalent for the dominions lost by ing up public education. A larger portion the Austrians in the Netherlands. The of the population is educated in the Lomremainder of the Venetian territory was bardo-Venetian kingdom than in almost annexed by the French to the Cisalpine any other of the Austrian provinces. The Republic. In 1805, by the treaty of Pres- government of Austria in Italy is undoubtburg, the whole Venetian territory was an- edly a cold, repulsive, and jealous despotnexed to the kingdom of Italy. It was ism; but it is not oppressive, and, in point once one of the most powerful maritime of military government, it is not as rigid and commercial states in Europe. For as the French. "The greater portion of this it was indebted, at first, to the mon- this part of Italy, after the fall of the Westopoly of the commerce of India, the prod- ern empire, was successively possessed by ucts of that country being conveyed during the Heruli, Ostrogoths, Greeks, and Lomthe Middle Ages up the Gulf of Persia, the bards: the latter held it from 568 till 774, Euphrates, and the Tigris, as far as Bag- when Charlemagne annexed it to the emdad, thence by land across the desert to pire of the Franks, to which it remained Palmyra, and thence to the Mediterranean attached till 888. From that period, exports. Afterward the supplying of the cept the territory of the Venetians, it genCrusaders on their way to Palestine with erally belonged to the German emperors provisions and military stores was an ad- till the establishment of the republic of ditional source of opulence and power. Milan in 1150. This republic, in 1553,

came into the possession of Charles V. Ven- which it is situated being dry at low wa-
ice and its territory, which had existed as
an aristocratic republic from the 7th centu-
ry to 1797, was confirmed to Austria by the
treaty of Vienna, 1815, of which it remained
a portion till 1866, when it was ceded to
United Italy through Napoleon III.

VENICE.

A famous maritime city of United Italy, formerly the capital of the republic of the same name. Population 110,000. The principal hotels: H. Royal Danieli, on the Grand Canal, which has recently been much enlarged, is admirably fitted up, and has the reputation of being one of the best hotels in Europe; table d'hôte, reading, smoking, reception, and conversation rooms. The cooking is admirable. At the arrival of each train the proprietors have a commissioner present, who speaks all languages. The charges of this fine house have been considerably reduced by the new proprietors. Grand Hotel Victoria, kept by Robert Etzenberger, one of the largest and finest hotels in Venice, near the square of St. Mark's. It contains 180 bedrooms and private sitting-rooms; readingroom, smoking and billiard rooms, baths; service on the Swiss system; charges very moderate; arrangements made en pension. M. Genovesi, one of the proprietors of the Danieli, has opened a beautifully-furnished house, au beau-rivage, in a lovely position. Hotel de l'Europe, finely situated on the Grand Canal, and managed in an excellent

manner.

The city of Venice, formerly called the "Queen of the Adriatic," is unrivaled as to beauty and situation. It stands on a bay near the Gulf of Venice. In this gulf, or Adriatic Sea, the ceremony of espousing the Adriatic took place annually on Ascension Day. It was performed by the Doge, accompanied by all the nobility and embassadors in gondolas, dropping into the sea a ring from his Bucentaur or state barge. This ceremony was omitted for the first time in many centuries in 1797.

Venice is situated upon 72 islands. Its peculiar formation renders it singularly attractive. The islands upon which the city is built lie in the midst of extensive lagoons, which surround it on all sides. The access to the city is very difficult, a great portion of the lagoon on

ter. Merchant vessels usually moor off the ducal palace; sometimes, however, they come into the Grand Canal, which intersects the city. In consequence of the chain of long narrow islands, which bound the lagoon on the side next the sea, being in part broken away, the republic during the last century was obliged to construct a mole several miles in length, to protect the city and port from storms and the swells of the Adriatic. This vast work is admired for its extent and solidity. It is formed of blocks of Istrian marble, and connects various little islands and towns. The principal from the sea to the lagoon is at Malamacco, 1 leagues from the city. There is a bar outside of Malamacco, on which there is not more than 10 feet of water at spring tides. On arriving at the bar, ships are conducted across it and into ports by pilots, whose services must be availed of.

The Grand Canal, which takes a serpen tine course through the city, is intersected by 146 smaller canals, over which there are 306 bridges, which, being very steep, and intended only for foot-passengers, are cut into steps on either side. These canals, crossed by bridges, form the waterstreets of Venice, the greater part of the intercourse of the city being carried on by means of gondolas. The gondola supplies the place of coaches, as carriage and even horseback riding is wholly out of the question here, the streets being so very narrow, not usually over 4 or 5 feet in width, with the exception of the Merceria, which is from 12 to 20 feet across, in the centre of the city, which is lined on either side with handsome stores. The gondola is therefore the mode of conveyance; it cuts its way so rapidly through the water that in a short time you may be able to visit every part of the city. They are long, narrow, light vessels, painted black, according to an ancient law, containing in the centre a cabin nicely fitted up with glass windows, blinds, cushions, etc.; those belonging to private families are much more richly decorated. One gondolier is generally considered sufficient, and the price is then four lire per day, but double that fare for two rowers. The most pleasant and healthy portion of Venice is in the vicinity of the Grand Canal, which is

[ocr errors]

broad and deep, on either side of which are enforced them with respect to their own magnificent palaces and churches. This workmen. "If any workman carry his canal, which varies from 100 to 180 feet in art to a foreign country, to the prejudice width, is crossed by the principal bridge of the republic, he shall be ordered to reof the city, the famous Rialto, which was turn; if he do not obey, his nearest relabuilt of marble by Antonio da Ponte in tives shall be imprisoned, that his regard 1591, and, like other bridges of Venice, has for them may induce him to return, which stairs, by which people ascend on one side if he does, he shall be forgiven, and employand descend on the other. The view from ment again provided for him; if, in dethis bridge is remarkably fine; the beau- spite of the imprisonment of his relatives, ties of Grecian architecture meet the eye he perseveres in his absence, an 'emissary of the stranger on whichever side he feels shall be employed to dispatch him;' and, disposed to turn. It is 89 feet in the span, after his death, his relatives shall be set and is divided into three parts, a narrow free." street running through the centre, with shops on either side, and two still narrower between the shops and balustrade. Its appearance is heavy, and by no means merits the great fame and attention which it has excited.

In consequence of having no competition to encourage them, the manufacturers of Venice during the last century were more remarkable for their perfection than the extent to which they were carried. In 1830 Venice was made a free port, and most of the articles for the use of the citizens are admitted free of duty. She also carries on a considerable trade with different parts of Greece. Previous to 1830, Trieste was encouraged, in point of trade,

The manufactures of Venice are much more various than many persons suppose. The Glass-works, situated on the island of Murano, employing about 400 hands (including females, who are engaged in arranging beads), produces magnificent mir-in preference to Venice, and still continues rors, artificial pearls, colored beads, etc. Gold chains, and every variety of jewelry, is also produced extensively, together with gold and silver materials, velvets, silks, laces, and other valuable goods. Printing is very extensively carried on here; the fame which Venice early acquired in this respect is familiar to every scholar, and the classics that issued from the Aldine presses are still admired for their correctness and beauty. Ship-building is carried on to some extent both here and at Chioz

[blocks in formation]

in the ascendency. By far the greater portion of the import and export trade of the city is carried on through Trieste by coasting vessels that are every day passing between the two cities. Many of the inhabitants of Venice get their living by fishing in the lagoon and the contiguous portion of the Adriatic. Independent of the fishing-boats, there are about 30,000 tons of shipping, of which a large proportion is engaged in the coasting trade.

Venice was the earliest, and, for a long time, the most extensive commercial city in modern Europe. Her origin dates from the invasion of Italy by Attila in 452. Many of the inhabitants of Aquileia and the adjoining territory were compelled to fly from the ravages of the barbarians to the cluster of small islands on which the city is built, opposite the mouth of the Brenta. They were then compelled to cultivate com

The policy of government was fatal to the progressive advancement of manufactures, although favorable to their introduc-merce and its subsidiary arts as a means tion, the severest penalties being inflicted of subsistence. In the 15th century Venupon the importers of foreign domestic ice was considered by far the richest and commodities into the territory. There was most magnificent city of Europe, with the nothing to fear from foreign competition, single exception of Rome; and those who and consequently nothing to stimulate in- visited her were impressed with still highvention or discovery. The Venetian gov-er notions of her grandeur, on account of ernment was so jealous of foreigners that her singular situation in the midst of the they issued the severest laws, and also sea. It has been represented as a delight

ful place to reside in. At first, no doubt the novelty gratifies and pleases, but it is too monotonous to be a favorite residence for any length of time. The streets being very narrow, the knowledge that you are dependent upon boats to carry you about, and the want of rural beauty, makes one weary of the scene. The saltness of the water and the changes of tide make it more endurable than it otherwise would be. If the water was fresh it would be uninhabitable. There were formerly no springs or wells, and the inhabitants were compelled to use the water collected in cisterns from the tops of the houses; but in 1847 artesian wells were constructed, which afford an abundant and more agreeable supply. The Venetians are improving their taste for the cultivation of fruit, flowers, etc. Very extensive gardens, constructed by the French, excite much admiration, from the peculiar manner in which they are formed; the serpentine walks, fine trees, shrubbery, different views of the islands and lagoons, make this an agreeable and interesting promenade.

The houses occupied by the upper classes are from three to four stories high, generally built square, and have two entrances, one on the Grand Canal and the other on the street. Some of the finest palaces are built of marble; the rooms occupied by the family are frequently small and badly ventilated, in consequence of setting apart the most desirable portions for the exhibition of statuary, paintings, and other works of art. Venice is a very reasonable place to reside in: rents are low, and living uncommonly cheap; society is pleasing and unrestrained, and foreigners are well received, and are usually much pleased. The manners and morals of the Venetians have been very much misconstrued and exaggerated, and what was merely holiday amusement was deemed by some to be corruption of morals.

umns, each of a single block, one bearing the statue of St. Theodore, protector of the republic, and the other crowned with the winged lion of St. Mark, stand on the fourth side of the piazzetta, on the seashore. Public executions formerly took place between these two columns. On two of its sides are regular buildings with arcades; on the north is the long row of buildings called the Procuratie Vecchia, on the south the Procuratie Nuove and Libraria Vecchia. The Piazza and neighboring buildings are frequented daily at the hour of two, simultaneous with the striking of the great clock of the Torre dell Orologio, by a large flock of pigeons, which is fed at that place at the expense of government (so it is said by some authors); and, although government receives the credit of it, yet, as the story runs, they are fed and cared for by the liberality of an old lady, widowed and childless, who left a large amount to be expended for this purpose, she having been much interested in their welfare during her life.

The

The church of St. Geminiano was formerly situated on the west side of the piazzetta, but its place is now occupied by the staircase of the imperial palace. Cathedral of St. Mark, the Orologia, and Campanile stand on the opposite end: there are three high poles in front of the Cathedral, from which were formerly displayed the flags of Morea, Crete, and Cyprus, of which the republic was mistress about the middle of the 15th century, when Mohammed II., the Turkish sultan, entered Constantinople and placed himself on the throne of Constantine and Justinian. The square, being the only open place of any size in Venice, is a celebrated promenade, and is the scene of masquerades and festivals.

The number of fine private residences is quite large, mostly built on heavy piles or massive structure; they are, however, with the exception of those built by Palladio, Sansovino, Scamozzi, and a few other eminent architects, devoid of good taste, and are more remarkable for their gorgeous style and great display: they are generally a mixture of Eastern, Roman, and Gothic architecture. Many of the ancient mansions have been pulled down, and the rest mostly deserted. The singularity of style in many of the buildings is peculiarly at

Piazza San Marco is of an oblong form, 600 feet by 300: it is the only open space of any magnitude, and, with the piazzetta leading to it, forms the state entrance to Venice from the sea. On one side is the old palace of the doges, on the other the mint and library of St. Mark: the architecture is regular, fresh, and modern, and forms a striking contrast to that of its neighbors. Two magnificent granite col-tractive.

« AnteriorContinuar »