We drove to the King's Arms at Newtown Limavady. At this inn there is a liberality of accommodation, and a desire to give satisfaction, which can scarcely be surpassed. During our short stay at this place, we went to look at the new corn market, a neat erection supported by cast-iron pillars, and containing suitable conveniences for weighing corn. I admire the system in the Irish markets of having the corn weighed by a person uninterested in the circumstances of either buyer or seller: no doubt it is a safe-guard against fraud, and a preventive of dispute.

Two miles from Newtown Limavady, we passed the ruins of a church: its buryingground is still used as a place of interment. Ruined churches appear very common in the north of Ireland; and, as other and more commodious churches are erected as substitutes, I like to see them-they convey a moral, and improve a landscape. But there are ruins both here and in other places, whose slovenly appearance can possess no claim to admiration; namely, those of small houses and cabins. When the interior of these humble dwellings

I

has been destroyed, by accident or want of occupation, their desolate walls are suffered to remain till the mouldering hand of time completes the wreck. It is a pity; as they are too insignificant to be picturesque, and answer no purpose but that of confirming an idea (much too common, and in many instances much too true) of the indolence of the inhabitants. am informed, however, that although in these trifling matters appearances are not altogether favourable, in reality this is one of the most industrious districts in Ireland. Certainly the country is generally well cultivated. The growth of flax predominates in this part, and children are taught to spin at a very early age for the manufacture of Irish linen in Coleraine and its neighbourhood.

The approach to Coleraine within the last two miles is very beautiful. To the right is the rapid Bann, with its foaming cascades, forming one of the finest salmon fisheries in the island. This noble river is skirted on the east by precipitous plantations of luxuriant foliage, and on the west by fruitful orchards and gardens. To the left, is a fine tract of land,

exhibiting a pleasing variety of hill and dale, arable and pasture, wearing an appearance of skilful and prudent management. In front, is the pretty little city of Coleraine, with its neat white-washed houses-the river, running through its centre-and the bridge, which at a distance looks very handsome, though upon a nearer survey it rather disappoints expectation.

We are glad to find ourselves comfortably established at McGroty's hotel, at the west end of the bridge, with a prospect of its being our head quarters until six o'clock to-morrow morning.

After dinner we walked to see the salmon fishery, and much regretted that it was too late in the season for us to be gratified by seeing the salmon make the leap.

"The fishery of the Bann has long been celebrated for its productiveness. It was, at different periods, the property of different persons and bodies; viz. the Protector Cromwell, the Earls of Donegal, the London Society, &c. At present, one fishery of this river belongs to the Donegal family, the other to the society. The value of the fisheries, of course, varies with the prices of provisions; the average rent

F

of each is probably about one thousand pounds per annum. The Bann salmon have but one season, having upwards of thirty miles to proceed in seeking for a spawning-place.

"The navigation of the Bann is very difficult, owing to two causes, the extreme rapidity of the river, which repels the tide, and, the bar at its mouth: this formidable obstruction is the result of the conflict of the river and the tide, and requires a skilful pilot to bring over a vessel whose burthen exceeds two hundred tons.

"The city of Coleraine appears to have been originally laid out by Sir John Perrot, Lord Deputy of Ireland, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The energy which pervaded all classes of persons in the employment of the state during the life of Elizabeth, is no where more conspicuous than in this country; first, in the exertions of her officers to reduce it to obedience; and secondly, in their perseverance in endeavouring to colonize and build. Coleraine was planted with English colonists, and the very houses are said to have been framed in London, and sent over here to be erected.

"After the retirement of Sir John, Coleraine fell greatly to decay; but the introduction of a manufacture and the enjoyment of a free trade, united with the industry and good conduct of its inhabitants, have rendered Coleraine not only the second town in the county, but a flourishing, beautiful, and happy settlement."*

There is little worthy of farther observation respecting Coleraine, excepting that its streets are clean and well paved, the houses generally neat, and in some instances handsome. Near the bridge is a spacious square, called the Diamond, in which the markets are held; and in the centre is the market-house, a commodious building with a piazza, under which is the meal market, &c. The upper part is used

as an assembly room.

August 17.-We rose at an early hour to proceed on our excursion. It was a sweet morning, the harbinger of a day more serenely beautiful than (I am told) is generally experienced by tourists to this wildly-magnificent shore.

Three miles from Coleraine, is a basaltic

* Wright's "Guide to the Giant's Causeway."