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point of view, the cathedral church of Londonderry lost nothing by the comparison.

The sermon was preached by the Rev. Mr. McNeile, Rector of Aldbury in Sussex, in aid of the funds of the society for foreign missions. It was the first time of his preaching in Londonderry; and I considered myself fortunate in being present upon the occasion. So deeply impressed was this wonderfully gifted preacher with the vital importance of his high calling, that he pleaded its cause, without "let or hindrance," for an hour and twenty minutesan incredible length of time for a sermon in the established church; and, what is perhaps equally incredible, none of his hearers appeared weary; and farther, so consistent, well-arranged, and richly-flowing was the stream of his eloquence, that it required an effort of the understanding to convince the judgment, that such a sermon, preached without the aid of inspiration, or even of a single note, was not more incredible than all.

As I looked round upon this refined and christianized scene, I could scarcely believe that I was seated in a church at almost the

D

northern point of Ireland.

I know not why

such should have been my feelings, unless they originated in the circumstance of my having imbibed the error,-much too common in England,-of forgetting that our Hibernian neighbours, as contemporary subjects with ourselves of the same liberal government, enjoy the same privileges, and possess the same means of improving them; consequently, their chance is at least equal to our own of becoming a great and a learned people. We hear exaggerated accounts of rapine, conflagration, and murder; and, not taking it into consideration that these enormities are practised only by the dregs of an overgrown population, we suffer the horrifying idea to seize upon our faculties in a form much too sweeping and conclusive, and erecting this beautiful island into a modern Nazareth, we ask, in the infatuation of prejudice, "if any good thing can come out of it?"

After dinner, we walked a short distance from the city, to look at a handsome building, called the Casseno. At present it is contested property; on that account it is unfurnished

and unoccupied, except by a peasant and his wife, who live in the kitchen. A room upon

the ground floor is the only one worthy of remark; it is called the banquetting room, and occupies the whole front of the house. It is adorned by five large and remarkably handsome windows, and the walls are painted with various devices; but cupids and doves predominate. Thirty years ago, this edifice was the property of the late Lord Bristol, Bishop of Londonderry. It is said that his lordship reserved it as a retreat for his leisure hours. That prelate is represented as having been a promoter of whatever was beneficial to his See in general, and to this city in particular; but a tendency to dissipation, incompatible with the sanctity of his dignified clerical profession, and probably other matters with which I am unacquainted, at length rendered his palace an uneasy residence. In the decline of life he went to the Continent; and finally closed his earthly career at Rome.

Hush! Speak softly! Press not irreverently the ashes of the illustrious dead! But, alas! when the great ones of the world render

themselves obnoxious to a community, it cannot reasonably be expected that their deeds should be fragrantly embalmed in its remembrance.

We attended evening service at the cathedral; but as there was no essential difference from that of the morning, further notice of it would be superfluous: only I must observe, that at the close of Mr. McNeile's sermon, which was equal to the first in length and ability, and commanded an equal degree of attention from the congregation, I could not forbear deeply regretting, that I had probably heard for the last time the awakening voice of that enlightened preacher and zealous watchman in Israel.

CHAPTER IV.

Journey to Buncranna—Appearance of the Country-Turf Bogs -Indolence of the Peasantry-Want of good HusbandryThe Potatoe Flower, the object of a poor Irishman's Admiration-Shoes and Stockings worn more generally by Men than Women-Village of Faughn, and View of Lough SwillyBuncranna-Crowd of Catholics assembled at the Inn, to receive absolution from their Priests-Mode of Bathing-The Beggar's Blessing-Benevolent Lady-The Holy Well-The Bishop's Residence at Faughn-Return to Londonderry-Unfavourable Weather-The Suicide-Entrance of the Judge of Assize-Ancient Pear-Tree.

August 13.-THIS morning, at an early hour, we set out for Buncranna, a bathing place upon Lough Swilly, in the barony of Inishowen, fourteen miles north of Londonderry. The country is pretty well cultivated, and exhibits a more fruitful appearance than could be expected from its bleak northern aspect. The hills are naturally stony and sterile; yet the valleys are generally productive, though

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