page 108. Also, if a vine cannot conveniently be planted otherwise than at the end of any side of a building, it cannot, of course, have more than one horizontal branch from which the bearing shoots are to proceed.

Only one other contingency now remains to be provided for, and that is, where local circumstances render it necessary, that a vine should be trained on a different side of a building, to that on which it is planted. In such a case, there is a sharp corner to be turned in training, and although this is not a difficult matter to accomplish, yet, to ensure success, it must be managed with care, and in a proper manner.

The flexibility of the young shoots of vines is well known, but there is only one period in the growth of a shoot, during which it can be made to bend round the rectangular corner of a building, and that is, in the autumn or winter immediately following the summer of its first growth and formation. For instance, a green shoot that is emitted from a vine in the spring of the present year 1837, will be fully ripe at the fall of the leaf in November; the time, therefore, that intervenes betwixt that event and the middle of March in the next year 1838, is the only period in the existence of that shoot, in which it will be sufficiently flexible for the purpose above-mentioned. Whenever it becomes necessary, therefore, to train the fruiting branches of a vine on a

different side of a building to that on which it is planted, the leading or connecting limb must be trained round the corner, (there to remain permanently,) some time during the period of its growth beforementioned. And in all such cases this operation had better be performed in the autumn succeeding the first summer's growth of a vine after it has been transplanted, because the shoot to be bent will then be comparatively small and weakly, and consequently much more flexible than the shoot of any subsequent year, after the vine has recovered from the check which its growth has experienced by transplantation. To perform this operation, then, observe the following directions.

First, procure a coarse file or rasp, and having fixed on the exact part of the corner of the building round which the shoot is to be trained, file a small portion of the edge away in the form of a segment of a circle about three quarters of an inch deep, rounding off the edges of the circular part, so as to make the surface of it over which the shoot is to be trained, as smooth and as round as possible. The shoot could be bent round the corner without a portion of the latter being thus filed away, but it can be done a great deal easier with it.

Secondly, then take the shoot in both hands, and in a very gradual and cautious manner, bend it a little at a time until it is made to assume a

sufficient degree of curvature to answer the required purpose. As soon as this is the case, cut out, very smoothly, all the buds that are on the shoot betwixt the stem of the vine and the corner of the building; after which nail that part of the shoot firmly to the wall. Then, laying the shoot in the groove at the corner pre- . pared for it, bend the terminal part of it very slowly and carefully towards the other side of the wall, and when you have got the second bud from the corner, within about two inches of the surface of the wall, put a strong shred round the shoot just behind that bud, and nail it to the wall in that position. If it were brought closer to the wall, it would be in danger of snapping asunder. Then cut the shoot back to within an inch of the second bud, leaving, thereby, no more buds than the two already named. The shoots that will proceed from these buds in the following summer, can easily be trained close to the wall in the desired direction; and at the ensuing winter training, the small portion of the shoot near the corner, may then be brought close to the surface of the wall without danger.

Thirdly, if, notwithstanding these precautions, the shoot should break during the operation, there will yet be some portion of the bark of the inner side of it, that will connect the parts together, and this, if managed in the following manner, will ultimately re-unite the broken parts.

Take a piece of thick woollen cloth about six inches long and four broad, and, binding it firmly round the shoot where it is broken, tie it closely with small packthread at each end, but not in the middle where the breach is. The object of this is to keep the air from the wound, and also the parts moist, which is effected by the bandage being of woollen, the inner folds of which, will scarcely ever be dry, even in the hottest weather. If this bandage be put on carefully, the parts will firmly re-unite by the close of the next growing season, and it may then be taken off.

CHAPTER XVI.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF TWELVE SORTS OF GRAPES MOST SUITABLY ADAPTED FOR CULTURE ON OPEN WALLS.

1. BLACK HAMBURGH. Bunches rather large, and handsomely shouldered. Berries hang loosely on the bunches, oval-shaped in general, and when well thinned, measure, when ripe, from two inches and a half, to three inches and a half in circumference. Skin rather thick, very nearly black, and if well shaded with leaves, covered with a beautiful blue bloom. Pulp fleshy, sweet, and of a rich vinous flavour. Ripens in a south-eastern aspect, about the middle of October, and may be easily kept on the vine in good preservation till Christmas.

As a splendid table fruit, this is, in every respect, one of the most valuable grapes that can be grown on open walls. It is a prolific bearer, hardy in its nature, and under judicious culture, will ripen with as small a portion of direct solar heat, as any grape we have.

2. BLACK PRINCE. Bunches large, long, and in general, well shouldered. Berries oval, and when well thinned, nearly as large as those of the Black Hamburgh. Skin rather thick, very.