buds, except in the case of a vine having been overcropped, or in that of an exceedingly vigorous growth of the shoots, the result of the soil being too highly manured. But the former can never happen, if the quantity of fruit borne by the vine, be proportioned to its capacity of maturation, agreeably to the scale given in the former part of this work; and the latter can be easily remedied, by training the shoots in a curved direction. Indeed, the principle of retarding the flow of the sap, by curving or depressing the shoots, may be applied with as much advantage to the training of the summer shoots of a vine, as to that of the shoots grown in the preceding year. For, although, by training the summer shoots in the manner beforementioned, all the buds developed will be fruit-buds, and the number and size of their bunches, be, in a great measure, regulated by the duration and intensity of the solar rays they enjoyed during their formation; yet, the number, and, more especially, the size of the bunches of fruit produced from a bud, can, without doubt, be further increased, by the application of this principle. If a summer shoot, therefore, every time it is nailed throughout the season, be bent, or pointed in a different direction to that in which it grew at the preceding nailing, the vigour of its growth will be checked, and the sap will immediately accumulate, and expend itself in forming round short

I

jointed wood, and in the developement of the finest description of fruit-buds. This is the key to the production of large bunches of fruit, which are not the necessary consequence of very large-sized bearing shoots, but rather of sap that has been accumulated, and highly elaborated by slowness of growth, in combination with full exposure to the sun's rays.

Sufficient has now been said, to shew the principles by which the training of the summer shoots of a vine, that are reserved as future bearers, must be regulated throughout the season. They are simple, and of easy practical application; and it is evident, that, by conforming to them, abundant crops of grapes are always at the command of the cultivator.

Ample details of the routine of summer training being given in the Calendarial Register, it only remains, in closing this chapter, to say a few words in reference to the nailing of the shoots to the wall. Linen or cotton shreds are the best that can be used for this purpose, woollen ones being too thick, and also too retentive of moisture. But if woollen shreds be used, those cut from old cloth, are better than those from new, as the latter abound with oil, and are, therefore, pernicious, especially to the summer shoots.

Strength, thinness, and openness of texture, are qualities necessary to form a good shred, and

these will be found combined in a much greater degree in linen or cotton fabrics, than in those made of wool. The shreds should be from three quarters of an inch, to an inch and a half in breadth, according to the size of the shoot to be nailed, and they should be cut sufficiently long, to admit of space enough being left, for the shoots freely to swell in, after they are encircled by the shreds. It must not be forgotten, that the covering of portions of the branches with shreds, and thereby preventing them from receiving the benefit of the sun and air, is, to a certain extent, a direct injury to the vegetation of the vine, and is only resorted to, because there are no other means by which the branches can be confined in their position on the wall, so as to receive the benefit of its warmth by close contact. Bearing this in mind, therefore, care should be taken, never to use more shreds, nor any of a greater breadth, than are necessary to secure the branches in a firm and effectual manner.

CHAPTER XI.

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A VINE DURING THE FIRST FIVE YEARS OF ITS GROWTH.

As the routine of practice hereafter given in the Calendarial Register, applies more particularly to vines that are well established, and in full bearing; it is necessary that some practical directions should be given for the management of young vines, until they arrive at such a state of growth, as to admit of their being subjected to a regular course of pruning and training. Previously, however, to this being done, some observations relative to the transplanting of vines, may, perhaps, not be unacceptable.

The best time of the year to transplant a vine, is immediately after the fall of the leaf; the longer its removal is postponed after this period, the later in the ensuing spring does it begin to vegetate. The ground in which it is to be planted, must be prepared agreeably to the directions given in the chapter on soil. This being done, dig a hole for the reception of the vine, about two feet deep, and of the same width and length; and, if, after the plant is taken up, its roots should prove too long for this, the size of the hole must be increased, as, on no account

must the roots be crippled in their extension. Loosen the sides and bottom of the hole, and to the soil that is taken out, add a couple of spits of well-rotted dung, and mix the whole well together, making it very fine. Put the mould into the hole again to within nine inches of the top, and it will be ready to receive the vine. This must be now carefully taken up, with its roots as entire as possible, and if any of them be bruised, or in any way injured, they must be pruned back. to the sound parts; fix the vine in the hole with its stem about three inches from the wall, and let the bottom bud be just even with the surface of the ground. Spread the roots out in a horizontal direction at equal distances from each other, and in a similar manner to the spokes of a fan, and then fill the hole with the mould nearly to the top. Take hold of the stem, and, drawing it upwards a little, give it two or three good shakes with the hand, that the mould may settle well round the roots; after which, fill up the hole with the remainder of the mould, cut the vine down to the two bottom buds, and the operation will be completed.

If the vine have been raised in a pot, the roots will most probably be matted together, in which case they must be freed from the mould, by having it shaken entirely off; and if any of them should have grown in an adverse direction, so as to cross each other, or in any way that is likely