Imágenes de página
PDF
ePub

The climate of Tellicherry, during our stay, was excessively enervating, and therefore any thing but agreeable. In the day-time the thermometer ranged from 88° to 92°; and at night frequently from 89° to 93°. On the 25th of April, Fahrenheit's thermometer in the coolest part of the shade at two o'clock, P. M., indicated 91°, and in the sun 121°; giving a difference of 30°. At midnight it was 88°, giving a difference of only 3° between the temperature of mid-day, and midnight. A thermometer plunged into the sand, indicated a temperature of from 130° to 135°. Between half past four, and nine in the evening, the heat was sometimes suffocating. If the morning broke with a clear sky over head, and the sun rose unconcealed by haze; and when also the horizon was broken in a dark tremulous line, a northerly wind was sure to set in about half past eleven o'clock, and dissipated the bodily and mental exhaustion caused by the hot nights, and sultry mornings, of this low latitude. About sunset, the breeze gradually died away, and was succeeded by a calm which lasted throughout the night. From sunrise till the hour

when the sea breeze commenced, there never was a breath of wind; or, if the surface of the ocean was occasionally ruffled, it was only here and there, by those little tantalizing puffs, which we all know so well by the name of "cats-paws.'

On a few occasions, the morning broke with dark clouds, and the sun was dimmed by vapours; then a strong southwesterly wind followed during the day, and we were always covered with sand and dust. Heavy rain sometimes accompanied these brisk gales, and a high swell, which rolled in from the sea, and raised so high a surf on the beach, that it cut off all communication between the shore, and the vessels at anchor.

In forming the plan of our journey through the interior, (no easy business, with four young children, and their female attendants,) we were most materially assisted by that intelligent and obliging Parsee, Darashah Cursetjee, who has resided on this part of the Malabar Coast for the last five and thirty years; and who will readily procure palankeen bearers, and baggage coolies, for the trip hence, to any inland station, without expect

ing, or even consenting to receive any remuneration, for such service.* We were entirely guided by his advice; and it may not be unimportant to mention, for the benefit of those persons who contemplate a similar course to ourselves, that Cannanore in preference to Tellicherry, is perhaps the best point of disembarkation, as in addition to the assistance of their friends, they will experience little trouble in securing bullock carriage—a desideratum, not so easily obtained either at Tellicherry, or Calicut. The hire of cattle from Cannanore varies from five and a half, to six rupees each, and the usual load is five maunds weight; while a coo

*This is a class of people whom I much venerate. They are a link between the Hindoos and Mahomedans; a sort of Quaker or non-descript blending of the other two. The Parsees form the centre, the Hindoos and Mahomedans the droite and gauche; by the mere vis inertiæ, the difficult art of keeping quiet where they have burning skies and several synagogues militant around them, they contrive, in their own unnoticed way, to do an immense deal. By weighty purses, excellent address, and few words, they wield every thing, are courted by the poor attornies, and now and then, when their assistance is requisite, are charitably assured that they may be saved. I know no one more eloquent before a Hindoo, who has any understanding, than a Parsee. If they were transplanted into England, they would excel in carrying loans, railways, job gaols, joint stock companies, and such like improvements, without difficulty or suspicion.

ley from the other two points, receives three and a half rupees, and only carries two maunds. It is also proper to mention, the absolute necessity of engaging good servants at ANY wages, and of supplying them with warm clothing: this is, however, no easy matter; for the Bombay servants in general, would as soon take a trip to the Himalayah, as the Neilgherry mountains. Even the Madras servants of character, (if any such be,) have so unconquerable an antipathy to the Neilgherries, that whenever they can possibly obtain a livelihood on the plains, no reward will ever lure them to the mountains; and such hatred exists between the Madras, and Bombay servants, that on the latter, ascending the Neilgherries, the former, use every means in their power to scare them away, when we, are immediately consigned to the "tender mercies" of the veriest canaille in all India. In fact, it is notorious, that an infernal legion of reptiles ejected from Bangalore, Trichinopoly, and other large stations, have crept into every corner of Ootakamund, preying upon the visiter like the unfledged pelican, that lives and fattens on its parent's

blood. If it be true, that England is the hell of dumb animals; Ootakamund, is the hell of speaking

ones.

The distance from the coast to the sanatary station on the Neilgherries viâ Tellicherry, or Cannanore, is only one hundred and twenty-four miles, or nine easy stages; while the route from Calicut by Paulghautcherry, is full one hundred and sixty miles: with greater fatigue, and greater expense in travelling through the country. I am inclined to think, too, that the expense of the journey, is hardly repaid by the sight of any thing that is not to be found in Wynaud. The Tellicherry road is also adapted to wheeled carriages as far as Manontoddy, but the country is thinly populated, and the supplies both few, and indifferent. If, however, the traveller takes pleasure in beautiful scenery, he will be amply repaid for these little inconveniencies. On landing at Tellicherry, supposing him to arrive in March, or April, (as most visiters to the Neilgherries do,) he will find the heat intolerable. I would therefore advise him instead of domiciliating himself in furnished apartments in

« AnteriorContinuar »