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collections of every branch of his dition afforded the most ample family.

proofs. There are some moral defects very difficult to be avoided by those persons, who from a situation Account of Ali Pasha, Vizier of eomparatively obscure, rise to sud

Albania ; from Travels in the den distinction and celebrity.- Ionian Isles, Albania, &c. by From these failings Park was hap

Henry Holland, M.D. F.R.S. pily exempt. He was a stranger &c. to all vanity and affectation; and notwithstanding his great popula. The morning of the 1st of Nority and success, appears to have vemher was made interesting to lost no portion of the genuine 'us, by our introduction to this simplicity of his character and extraordinary, man. At ten o'clock, manners. This simplicity perhaps Colovo again called, to say that originated in a considerable de the Vizier was prepared to give us gree from a certain coldness and audience; and shortly afterwards, reserve, which rendered him very two white horses, of beautiful fiindifferent, and perhaps some- gure, and superbly caparisoned what averse, to mixed or general in the Turkish manner, were society. It was probably owing brought to us from the Seraglio; to the same cause, that his con- conducted by two Albanese solversation, for a man who had seen diers, likewise richly attired and so much, had nothing remarka- armed. Mounting these horses, ble, and was rarely striking or and a Turkish officer of the paanimated. Hence, although his lace preceding ns, with an ornaappearance was interesting and mental staff in his hand, we proprepossessing, he was apt to dis- ceeded slowly, and with much appoint the expectations of stran- state, through the city, to the gers : and those persons who es- great Seraglio. timated his general talents from Passing through the almost sahis powers of conversation, formed vage pomp of this outer area of an erroneous and inadequate opi- the Seraglio, we entered an inner nion of his merits.

court, and dismounted at the foot In his person he was tall, being of a dark stone-staircase. On about six fect high, and perfectly the first landing-place stood one well proportioned. His counte- of the Vizier's carriages; an old nance and whole appearance were and awkward vehicle, of German highly interesting; and his frame manufacture, and such as might active and robust, fitted for great have been supposed to have traexertions, and the endurance of velled a dozen times from Haragreat hardships. His constitution burgh to Trieste. At the top of had suffered considerably from the the staircase, we entered into a cffects of his first journey into wide gallery or hall, the winAfrica, but seems afterwards to dows of which command a noble have been restored to its original view of the lake of loannina, and vigour, of which his last expe- the mountains of Pindus; the

walls

walls are painted, and numerous equally decorated with various doors conduct from it to different kinds of jewellery. parts of the palace. This hall, Yet more than his dress, howlike the area below, was filled with ever, the countenance of Ali Pasha a multitude of people; and the at this time engaged our earnest living scenery became yet more observation. It is difficult to devarious and interesting as we pro- scribe features, either in their deceeded. We now saw, besides tail or general effect, so as to conTurkish, Albanese, and Moorishvey any distinct impression to the soldiers, the Turkish officers, and mind of the reader. Were I to ministers of the Vizier ; Greek attempt a description of those of and Jewish secretaries, Greek Ali, I should speak of his face as merchants, Tartar couriers, the large and full ; the forehead repages and black slaves of the Se- markably broad and open, and raglio ; petitioners seeking to ob- traced by many deep furrows; the tain audience, and numerous other eye penetrating, yet not expressive figures, which give to the court of ferocity; the nose handsome and palace of Ali Pasha a character and well formed; the mouth and all its own.

lower part of the face concealed, A curtain was thrown aside, except when speaking, by his and we entered the apartment of mustachios and the long beard Ali Pasha. He was sitting in the which flows over his breast. His Turkish manner, with his legs complexion is somewhat lighter erossed under him, on a couch than that usual among the Turks, immediately beyond the fire, some- and his general appearance does what more elevated than the rest, not indicate more than his actual and richer in its decorations. On age, of sixty or sixty-one years, his head he wore a high round except perhaps that his beard is cap, the colour of the deepest whiter than is customary at this mazareen blue, and bordered with time of life. The neck is short gold lace. His exterior robe was and thick, the figure corpulent of yellow cloth, likewise richly and unwieldy; his stature I had embroidered, two inner garments afterwards the means of ascertainstriped of various colours, and ing to be about five feet nine flowing down loosely from the inches, The general character neck to the feet, confined only and expression of the countenance about the waist by an embroidered are unquestionably fine, and the belt, in which were fixed a pistol forehead especially, is a striking and dagger, of beautiful and de- and majestic feature. licate workmanship. The hilts of He inquired how long it was these arms were covered with dia- since we had left England ? where monds and pearls, and emeralds of we had travelled in the interval? great size and beauty were set in when we had arrived in Albania ? the heads of each. On his fingers whether we were pleased with what the Vizier wore many large dia- we had yet seen of this country? mond rings, and the mouth-piece how we liked the appearance of of his long and flexible pipe was loannina ? whether we had experienced any obstruction in reach- thither by an English frigate. In ing this city? Soon after the bringing forward the subject conversation commenced, a pipe during our interview with him, was brought to each of us by the the Vizier spoke with animation, attendants, the mouth-pieces of or even a slight warmth of manamber, set round with small dia- ner. He complained of the inmonds; aud shortly afterwards justice done to him in the capture coffee of the finest quality was of his vessel, denied the right of handed to us in china cups, within capture in this particular case, golden ones. The Vizier himself and alledged his various good ofdrank coffee, and smoked at inter- fices towards our government, as vals, during the progress of the well as to individuals of the English conversation.

rienced

nation, as what ought to have The inquiries he made respect- secured him against such acts of ing our journey to Ioannina, gave hostility. We answered, that as us the opportunity of compliment- mere travellers we could not vening him on the excellent police of ture to give a reply that might be his dominions, and the attention deemed official, but that we doubthe has given to the state of the ed not, from our knowledge of roads. I mentioned to him gene- the dispositions of the English rally, Lord Byron's poetical de- government, that when the affair scription of Albania, the interest was properly explained, its final it had excited in England, and arrangement would be both just Mr. Hobhouse's intended publi- and satisfactory to his Highness. cation of his travels in the same This of course meant little, and country. He seemed pleased with the Vizier doubtless understood it these circuinstances, and stated as such. He added only a few his recollection of Lord Byron. words, and then, with a loud He then spoke of the present state laugh, expressed his desire of of Europe ; inquired what was changing the subject. our latest intelligence of the ad- Before audience concluded, he vance of the French armies in mentioned his having been inRussia, and what was the progress formed that I was a physician, and of affairs in Spain. On the for- asked whether I had studied memer point, it was evident that the dicine in England ? Replying to information we gave was not new this in the affirmative, he expressed to him, though he did not ex- his wish to consult me on his own pressly say this; his manner, how- complaints before we should quit ever, evinced the strong interest loannina, a proposition to which he felt in the subject, and he 1 bowed assent, though not withseemed as if he were seeking in- out apprehensions of difficulty in directly to obtain our opinions prescribing for the case of such a upon it.

patient. He dismissed us very The next subject of conversa. graciously, after we had been tion was prefaced by his asking with him about half an hour. Us, whether we had seen at Santa- The manner of the Vizier in Maura, one of his armel corvettes, this interview was courteous and which had been seized aud carried polite, without any want of the

dignity dignity which befits his situation. were chiefly of a chronic nature, There is not, either in his coun- depending partly upon his age, tenance or speech, that formal partly upon circumstances in his and unyielding apathy, which is former life, with other symptoms the characteristic of the Turks as that I learnt more from my own a people; but more vivacity, hu- observation than his report, which Diour, and change of expression. required the use of preventive His laugh is very peculiar, and its means, to obviate eventual dandeep tone, approaching to a growl, ger. might also startle an ear unac- In those interviews, however, customed to it.

which were very frequent during A day or two afterwards he the last week of our stay at Ioaniagain sent for us to the Seraglio, nina, the conversation was not and, some general conversation confined to medical matters alone, having taken place, he asked seve- but went into other topics of a ral questions which evidently had more familiar kind. Situated as relation to his health, and formed I now was with him, I could feel a sort of exercise of his judgment perfectly at ease in this intercourse, upon me.

which every circumstance contriAfter this preamble, he entered buted to render highly interesting. upon a narrative of his complaints, He usually sent for me to the which, though I could only dis- Seraglio in the afternoon or eventantly follow it in his own lan- ing; sometimes alone, or occaguage, yet was evidently marked sionally with my friend, when he by good precision and force in had nothing to say about his comthe manner of relation. He con- plaints. At whatever time it was, tinued speaking for about fifteen the approaches to the Seraglio. minutes, and afforded me during were always crowded with the this time a fine occasion of mark- singular groups already described. ing the feature of his countenance The Vizier was rarely to be found and manner. The narrative was in the same room on two successive translated to me with little abridg- days; and, during my present stay ment, and much seeming 'accu- at Ioannina, I was with him in racy, by the dragoman Colovo. In eight different apartments. His its substance, I may remark ge- dress was not greatly varied; and nerally, that there was a good only on one occasion I saw him deal of caedulity and prejudice with a turban instead of the blue displayed on some points; on cap, which he wore at the time of others, more soundness of judg- our first interview. His attitude ment than is common to the Turks also was very uniform, according as a nation. For various reasons to the Turkish habit. I seldom I do not feel myself at liberty to saw him rise from his couch, give the particulars of this nar- though once he did so, while exrative, nor would they afford any plaining to me the decline of his thing new to the medical reader. bodily powers, striding firmly at It may suffice to say, that at this the same time across the chamber, time he was suffering under no as if to show that still much of acute disorder ; that his symptoms energy was left. His manner of VOL. LVII.

2 G

reception reception was always polite and cially on the latter point, to wlach dignified. There was evidently I observed him always to attach a more form intended, when many peculiar interest. He remarked, persons were present, and his that he had heard that the Indians manner becanie more easy and and Chinese live to a great age, familiar when we were alone. and asked whether I knew this to

The most frequent topics intro- be the case, or was acquainted with duced by the Vizier in conversation, any particular means they used were those relating to general po- for the purpose. Seeing him inlitics; and in these it was evident clined to follow this topic, I stated that he was inore interested than the remarkable instances of lonin any other. The conversation gevity in our own countrymen, was usually carried on by question Parr and Jenkins ; at which he and reply; and his inquiries, though expressed surprise, and much deoften showing the characteristic sire to know if there were any ignorance of the Turks in matters means in nature by which this end of cominon knowledge, yet often might be obtained. It was evialso were pertinent and well con- dent, that in this question he had ceived, and made up by acuteness reference to himself; and I took what they wanted of instruction. the opportunity of enforcing upcia Some of these questions, which 1 him some of the medical advice I noted down, may serve as specie had before given. He gave assent mens of their usual style. We to what I said ; but at the same were talking about England. He tinepursued the question, whether inquired the population of the there were not some more direct country; and whether I thought means of procuring long life. I it as populous as those parts of Al- mentioned to him generally the bania I had seen? The answer to attempts that had been made some this question led him to describe centuries ago, to discover the briefly the northern parts of Al Elixir Vitæ, and stated that this bania, as being much better inha- was a project which had now boen bited than those to the south of abandoned by all inen of reflection. Ioannina. He then pursued the Alluding accidentally, at the same former subject; asked what was time, to the search after the phithe size and population of London; losopher's stone, he eagerly foland expressed surprise when in- lowed this subject, and wished to formed of its magnitude. He en- know whether there were not quired the number of our ships of some secret methods of discoverwar ; the comparison of their size ing gold, which gave their posa with the frigates he had seen on sessor the power of procuring any his coast; and where they were all amount of this metal. There was employed.

a strong and significant interest in He inquired the distance of his manner of asking this question, America from England and France; which greatly struck me, and it its extent; and to whom it be- was accompanied by a look tolonged. lle asked respecting its ward myself, seeming to search population and the longevity of into the truth of my reply. I anits inhabitants, and dwelt ospe. swered, of course, that there were

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