natives, in the respective forms of military men, sailors, shipwrights, mechanics, tradesmen, and peasants. The town itself is beautifully situated. To the north may be seen the noblest breakwater in the world, with its snug harbour, in which innumerable vessels, from a twenty-five ton cutter of the Royal Thames Yacht Club to a French three-decker, lie snugly at anchor. To the west may be heard the busy sounds of the dock-yard, the shipwrights building and repairing, the noise of their tools, and those of the anvil, the vibration of the steam-engine, with its herculean and multifarious operations of pumping, punching, and sawing, while near it the heavy booming of a four-and-twenty pounder, the sharp rat-a-plan of the drum, and the spiritstirring notes of the bugle rend the air. The harbour is dotted with boats, intent on business or pleasure, adding much to the gaiety of the scene. There may be seen the dark dirty boat of an English collier, towing the dismantled vessel into the inner harbour; by her side the wellappointed gig of one of the Royal Yacht Squadron dashes by, manned by four stalwart sailors, with its proud owner carelessly lounging, with the yoke-lines in his couleur-de-beurre kid gloves, and mild Havanna; the admiral's barge, with its neat white awning, skims through the water, pulled

by sixteen weather-beaten tars, in dress and appearance like our own, forming a striking contrast to the tiny "dingy" of a Southampton pleasure cutter hired by the week. Government

66

lighters," pilot vessels, fishing-smacks, merchantmen, yachts, and steamers give constant life to the "silent highway." The inner basin, already referred to, is the snuggest birth that a vessel can lie in; it is approachable at half-tide, with water enough within to float a vessel of any reasonable draught. The constant influx and reflux keep it clean; being situate close to the quay, it combines the advantages of town and sea side. The shops at Cherbourg are extremely good and reasonable, hitherto not spoiled by the prodigality of our islanders; and the fish, flesh, vegetable, and fruit markets are excellent. As a true-born Englishman, I have a natural prejudice in favour of native beef; but I am bound to confess that I never ate finer steaks than I procured at Cherbourg, with two advantages over a similar article in our over-taxed country-the butcher would cut from whatever part you liked, with a cheerful smile instead of a surly growl, and the price was but a trifle more than half a fashionable "purveyor" would charge on the north side of the Channel. A visit to the stores of Mahieu Frères, No. 14, Rue du Château, will

VOL. II.

I

amply repay all who land at Cherbourg, as they will not only meet with the greatest civility and attention, which is ever extended to strangers, but will be put in the way of seeing all the sights of the town, having their letters of credit cashed; and last, not least, be enabled to lay in a store of the best French wines and brandy, at a reasonable rate, taking care, however, that, before landing them in England, a declaration is made to the Custom House authorities.

CHAPTER V.

Historical Interest of Cherbourg-Anecdote of Henry III. of England, from Froissart-The Marine and Military Arsenals-Magnitude of the Breakwater and Docks Loss of Lord Alfred Paget's Yacht "Alma"-Increase in the Number of Collisions at Sea-Yachting Waters-A Sudden Squall at Brighton-The Independence of a Yacht Owner-The Cockney Paradise MargateChase of a Smuggler-Scarborough-The Luxuries of Yachting-Its National Importance.

In an historical point of view, Cherbourg claims much interest, for which we must refer the reader to the pages of Froissart; we cannot, however, refrain from giving, upon his authority, an anecdote of Henry III., upon his landing in France.

"When the fleet of England was all safely arrived at La Hogue, the king leaped on shore first, but by accident he fell, and with such violence that the blood gushed out at his nose. The

999

knights that were near him said, 'Dear sir, (sire, we presume), let us entreat you to return to your ship, and not think of landing to-day, for this is an unfortunate omen.' The King instantly replied, 'For why? I look upon it as very favourable, and a sign that the land is desirous of me.' The French chronicler then proceeds to describe the advance of the armies by sea and land; the capture of Barfleur; adding, "They advanced until they came to a considerable and wealthy town called Cherbourg, which they burnt and pillaged in part; but they could not conquer the castle, as it was too strong, and well-garrisoned with men-at-arms." It is also famed as being near the scene of the battle of La Hogue, in 1692, between the English and French combined fleets, under Admirals Russell and Rooke, and the French fleet commanded by Admiral Tourville, in which the former gained a splendid victory, burning thirteen of the enemy's ships, destroying eight more, forcing the rest to fly, and thus preventing a threatened descent upon England. At a later period, the fort, arsenal, and shipping were destroyed by the British, who landed here in 1758.

In the "Geographie Universelle," by MalteBrun, we find Cherbourg described as a fortified city, and sea-port of France, on the northern coast of the department of Manche, and one of