THE HUSBAND IN UTAH. CHAPTER I. UTAH-MOUNT ZION-INCIDENTS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONSBROTHER UNDERWOOD. UTAH ! Deseret! The country of the Great Salt Lake! The region of saline plants !—the abode of the beautiful, the wonderful, and the new. Snow on the mountains, flowers in the valleys-the tall pine trees crowning the rocky heights, and the graceful cottonwood marking the margins of a hundred streams-the air redolent with the fragrance of blossoms unknown to the East-cattle grazing peacefully among the hills, or reposing in the shade-the tall spires of the Mormon temple glittering in the rich sunlight—the Mormon city, with its picturesque edifices, and busy inhabitants -bustle, hilarity, and confusion in the streets-huge family carriages filled with a mixed variety of old and young women, and children of different ages and sizes-stately Mormon elders proceeding on pedestrian excursions of business or pleasure-dashing soldiers with nodding plumes, gay uniforms, and prancing steeds—Indians in all the glory of their national costume loitering near places of low resort. And last, not least, a company of English emigrant converts to the new faith, approaching in the distance. MOUNT ZION. The Great Salt Lake City, called Zion by the Mormons, is pleasantly situated. They are fond of comparing it to the ancient capital of Judea, though to find any resemblance between the two, must require a great stretch of imagination. For sublime and picturesque scenery, the Mormon city has no rival in the world. Behind it, like an amphitheatre, rise the lofty summits of the Wahsatih mountains, whence never-failing streams of fresh water descend, and are conducted in small channels on either side of the streets. The city is well laid out; the streets, which are one hundred and twenty feet wide, intersect each other at right angles, and are ornamented by rows of cottonwood trees. The houses are all adobes with the exception of the Governor's palace. They are substantial and elegant, and though generally small, a few are very large and commodious; each house stands back a short distance from the street, and is surrounded by a small garden; each block has a bishop or spiritual overseer, whose duty it is to know everything passing within his jurisdiction. He must examine every week into the moral and material condition of each family, and report to the Governor. With this preliminary notice of Utah, and its famous city, I shall proceed to recount whatever was most interesting, amusing, and instructive to me during my visit to that place, in the summer of 1855. INCIDENTS AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS. I was one of a small company who took the overland route to California, n ore for the amusement of the thing than any other purpose. We hunted buffalo on the plains, visited trappers in the mountains, and feasted with halfnaked savages, till novelty gave place to weariness, and our approach to the habitations of civilized man, was attended with feelings of decided pleasure. When the saints from the United States, or other parts of the world, arrive within sight of the city, they prostrate themselves to the earth like the Mohammedans when they discover the sacred edifices of Mecca; in our case, however, the discovery of its gleaming habitations was only hailed by a shout of joy, and accelerated speed along the well-worn road. This road, though generally good, was quite as remarkable as other things belonging to the same territory. It went bending, hither and thither, first to to the right, then to the left, winding around the mountain spurs, and the bases of hills, till finally reaching the plain on which the city stands, we entered it just as the sun was declining in the western horizon, and the shadows of night began to gather on the mountain tops. Of course our first desire was to obtain shelter and food, not only for that night, but several weeks. Zion was crowded with visitors, travellers, and emigrants, under similar necessities. There are some persons who for a consideration will supply what we want-I say for a con sideration-the Mormon brethren in this respect resembling the Jews of old, who while affecting to despise the Gentiles, were at the same time strongly enamored of Gentile gold. We applied for lodgings at the United States Hotel, kept by the Hon. Mr. Kinney, U. S. judge for the tèrritory of Utah, but to our great disappointment his house was full. He likewise expressed regret, but gave us directions to a smaller and much inferior establishment, kept by a Mormon-Brother Underwood. BROTHER UNDERWOOD !" I said to myself, walking in the direction of his house, "that name sounds familiar," and I patiently strove to recall where or under what circumstances I became acquainted with its owner.. Thus meditating, I reached the domicile. It was now nearly dark; there was no candle or lamp burning, and I could obtain only a very unsatisfactory glimpse of my host. Yet his manner was kind and cordial, and he spoke in a frank cheerful voice. I told him my necessities. He said, very well, he wonld see, and disappeared. The formality usual in Eastern hotels was entirely dispensed with here. There was no registry of names, and there seemed to be no clerks or assistants, with the exception of a small boy, who acted in the double capacity of errand runner and bar-tender. At present he sat dozing behind a small counter, apparently unconscious of the presence of a stranger; meanwhile we heard some one (whom we supposed to be our host) running up and down stairs, opening and shutting doors, and calling through the rooms, "Nelly, Nelly!" After an absence sufficiently prolonged to have cooked and prepared a good supper, he returned with the dismal intelligence that there was no one in the house who could get us anything to eat, but that he would show us to our apartments if we desired to remain. My companions angrily expostulated with the man. He excused the matter by throwing the blame on his wives; they generally took turns, he said, in going out, and the one whose duty it was to stay at home, had neglected or forgotten it. He supposed she was at a neighbor's, though where, it would be impossible to tell. All but myself decided to depart. I was secure of a shelter, that was half I sought, and I hoped that the remainder might be forthcoming; so taking up my travelling-bag, I bade my companions call on me the ensuing day, and with a hearty "good night," prepared to follow my obsequious host. The room to which he consigned me was a sort of little cell. He had brought up in his hand a short piece of tallow candle, contained in an iron can |