641] Tour in Poland. [642 men and subalterns lay in the streets or floor of which, in any clean corner he fields. Occasional bands of prisoners may be fortunate enough to pick up, made from the French armies were the traveller generally spreads his bed. marched through on their route to Siberia. These were either tied arm to arm or leg to leg, by means of boards with holes for their legs, &c. chained on and padlocked. When they stopped all night, they were turned into a barn, spread with straw, sometimes loose, but more generally tied two and two. They were constantly guarded by Cossacks with drawn swords and short whips. Their food was black bread, generally mouldy, and water. I prevailed on the commandant to let it be cut up and toasted, which made it more palatable. The first night I slept in this barn as I had done in all the route from Warsaw; but this being a more frequented inn than any I had met with, I was too much annoyed with insects of every description and noisome smells to try it a second time. I then got my bed spread in a corner of the house, but found this little better: I next tried the cellar, in which I continued about a fortnight, till I changed my lodgings to the house of a gardener's widow, a free woman, a sort of Doble, in the outskirts of the town. My Jewish host had a good deal of custom whilst I remained with him, from a desire to converse and traffic with me, and before I left the town he had dignified his kaback or public-house with the title of Pratschdom Angielski, or Hotel d'Angleterre. A day or two after my arrival I had a dispute with my Jewish fuhrman, or coachman, whom I had engaged in Warsaw by written contract to conduct me at so much a mile to Wilna. He was ready to perform his part of the contract, and therefore insisted on full payment. I took him before the sub-prefect of the department, who reduced his demand; I discharged him, his six horses, and a sort of stray soldier, whom I had hired in Warsaw, as guard to my luggage, and general domestic. I arrived at Tykocyn on the 28th of July, and after going through the usual regulations as to passports, which are much less rigid in Poland than in Russia or France, I was conducted across the Narew to the Russian barrier. Here the Russian officer either pretended or believed that he had no authority to admit an Englishman into the Russian empire. Indeed, though a colonel, he seemed doubtful as to whether England was to be reckoned a friendly power, and did not know, or at least pretended not to recognize the hand-writing of the Russian General Lanskoy, at that time Governor of Warsaw. He therefore kept my passport, and sent two Cossacks to reconduct me across the Narew to Tykocyn, where I was necessitated to reinain nearly four months deprived of what an Englishman would call every real comfort; but amply gratified with the unbounded hospitality and kindest wishes and attentions of the Polish nobility of the neighbourhood, and of every class of the inhabitants It is to this circumstance and that of being generally accompanied by a Pole who was well acquainted with both the French and Polish languages, that I know more of the detail of life, and of some of the country customs in Poland, than can fall The Baron being a bachelor, lodged to the lot of inost general English tourists. in the mansion of the Countess of TworI took up my abode at a Jewish inn, koska, and the rout was given in her consisting of two apartments with a house. This was of brick, and contained -small cellar and a large barn or shed; two large apartments and a kitchen en which last, as is usual in Poland and suite. The outer or principal apartRussia, serves as a lodging-house for ment was about 20 by 30 feet, plaistered every description of domestic animal, as but not coloured. The furniture cona coach-house, a cart-shed, and on the sisted of three rough red painted canvass As the Jew bribed the sub-prefect's secretary on this occasion with a silver rouble, I was obliged to apply a Prussian dollar and a medal of the Duke, then Lord Wellington, to the same purpose; and have occasion to believe they prevailed. At all events the medal was the immediate occasion of procuring the personal attentions of the sub-prefect Baron Dombrowski, who two days afterwards gave a sort of rout, which as I afterwards learned was in compliment to me. 643] Tour in Poland, [644 bottomed fir sofas, used as beds; two punch made of tea, rye or oats whiskey, red painted fir tables, a bureau of stained and sugar, was produced and drank at birch, some fir rush bottomed chairs, a first in cups and saucers, but as the comglass, a print of Buonaparte, some bad pany became more numerous, in tumprints of saints, and views of St. Paul's blers, or whatever could be come at. London and St. Peter's Rome. The deal In a short time the large room was floor was strewed with leaves of the crowded, and tête-a-têtes were held in acorus calamus, or scented flag, which the back room, kitchen, and back yard, when trod on diffuses an agreeable most of the gentlemen standing or walkodour. The second room was furnished ing, but part of the ladies sitting, numwith two inferior bed sofas, a table, some bers in the court or open yard. About chairs, and a writing-desk, with trunks seven o'clock, cold meat, fowls, rye and boxes. The kitchen had a fire- bread, and salted cucumbers, were place exactly like our smithies, and was brought in and put on a side table; they furnished with a number of earthen jars were carved and eaten without plates, with which they cook. In the chimney and with little assistance from knives hung ham and dried mushrooms. and forks: every one cut off a piece and About four o'clock, Baron Dombrow- took it between his fingers and thumb, ski and the Count Zerembi, an accom- and devoured it walking; the bones of plished gentleman, who had travelled course were thrown on the floor. A good the greater part of Europe with the late deal of laughing, drinking, complimentKing Stanislaus, called on me, and con- ing, and embracing, took place in the ducted me to the Countess, whom I Polish language and manner, but as all found sitting in the outer room, together were anxious to speak to me, when I with about twelve ladies. I found the was addressed it was in French or GerCountess about 35, rather elegantly man. I was according to custom embraformed, but uch marked with the ced by the men both at their entering and small-pox, fair, indifferently dressed, in leaving, which I found sufficiently disa coarse Saxon cotton print, six or eight gusting, as did some French and Italian rings on her fingers, glass imitation pearl officers (convalescent prisoners), who beads round her neck, and her hair seemed highly to enjoy the scene. Great hanging loose and uncurled. The other attention was paid to them by the ladies, ladies were dressed in the same general and even by the men, who at that time style, (excepting one in silks,) but with were all French in their hearts. caps and straw bonnets of an old French About eight o'clock the company began pattern. Three of them were elderly to break up: full of good nature, and eathe others between 18 and 30. They ger to shew their gratitude to the hospitalked a great deal of the inconvenience table Countess, and she now received a of having one's passport taken away, profusion of embraces, I may say on evthe Jews, Jewish coachman, and Eng- ery part of her body. There were two land, where they understood the ladies or three embracing her head and neck, to be strictly guarded by their husbands, Madam Von Pretorius, the lady of the postmaster, a German, said her husband had not known an Englishman in Tykocyn, during the period of his official services, a space of about ten years. and others embracing her back, sides. shoulders, and legs, all at the same time. They embraced me only on the cheeks,, which, from the effects of their beards and whiskers, were sore for some days after. At ten I observed three of the ladies Country squires and their ladies now and most of the remaining gentlemen began to arrive, chiefly in cars and creels (about six or eight) intoxicated. I left and small one-horse carts of wicker- them with Baron D. not in a much better work; though some of the higher classes state. We called at his favourite Jewess's, rode on horse-back. Every one saluted and drank some bad wine, and I lett him the Baron twice, once on each cheek; there at eleven o'clock, and went to my relations only saluted the Countess at cellar, where I may be supposed to reentering, but all the company saluted her main yours,& ,&c. WAC PAN ANGIELSKI. at leaving. Ischey, or Prassian-tra, a Landon, Feb. 17, 1817. 645] Memoir of the late J. Neild, Esq. MEMOIRS OF EMINENT PERSONS. From the Gentleman's Magazine. [646 MEMOIR OF J. NEILD, ESQ. THE BENEVOLENT VISITOR OF PRISONS. WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. WAS born May 24, 1744 (old style,) An advertisement about this time at Knutsford in Cheshire, in the neigh- appeared in the Newspapers, from a perbourhood of which my family possessed son styling himself a jewelier; and of some good estates. My father die 1 when this business I had formed some idea, I was too young to retain the slightest from the good-nature of a Jew, who, remembrance of him, leaving myself, being a kind of itinerant jeweller, passed three brothers, and one sister, to the care through Knutsford every year, and seemof our mother, who carried on the busi- ed pleased at the effect and inquiries ness of a linen-draper. She was a which the shewing me his box of stone woman of merit and piety, and devoted buckles, buttons, &c. produced; a treaherself to the bringing up, and virtuously ty was set on foot, and soon concluded. educating, her children. I passed through I accordingly set out for London the ordinary course of education at the without either friend or recommendatown where I was born, with tolerable tion there, and arrived the latter end of success, but quitted it before I was the year 1760. In a very short time thirteen. A skilful preceptor would, (about a month) I found my situation about this time, have discovered the true very different to what I had expected, bent of my temper or disposition, from and that the preservation of my characthe manner in which I was struck, at ter required my immediate removal. seeing a print of Miss Blandy, in prison, Without a single acquaintance, and not fast bound in misery and in irons, for much money in my pocket, I knew not poisoning her father; and another of what to do. I wrote a particular acMiss Jefferys and John Swan, whom she procured to shoot her uncle; and my frequent visits to the shop where they were exhibited for sale. The real principles of action, and a character impressed by nature, are in this way most likely to be found; for the efforts of nature will very rarely, if ever, deceive. count of my situation to my mother; and my aunt, who was a woman of sin gular merit and abilities, wrote to a gentleman, who had been an officer of high rank in the Army: he interested himself so far as to get me released from my then situation, and placed me with Mr. Hemming, the King's goldsmith. After After quitting school, I went to live a short trial, I disliked the business; with my uncle, who farmed one of his but in this connexion I was enabled to own estates; with him I continued choose for myself, and soon agreed with about two years, but not liking the farm- a jeweller. Having a mechanical turn, ing business, I solicited my mother to I had here ample scope to indulge it; put me apprentice to some trade or pro- and in the latter part of my apprenticeship fession. An opportunity presented it- made many very curious articles,† with self, and Doctor Leaf, of Prescot, near which I waited upon several of the Liverpool, (all surgeons and apothecaries Nobility and Gentry, who patronized in the country are called Doctors) was genius; and, among others, one of the desirous of having me; but in the con- Vice-presidents of the Society of Arts. clusion of his letter he says, After Mr. Here I had frequent opportunities of Neild's five years are expired. he needs meeting men of genius and learning, only take a trip or two to Guinea, and and of cultivating acquaintance, which be will be qualified to practice any was of the greatest service to me afterwhere.' This excited my curiosity and inquiry, and final rejection of the offer. 6 Ulysses adopted this mode to discover Achilles. + One of which was a man of war in full sail, with guns on board, which I set in the head of a ring. Duke of Marlborough. Countess Welderen, Ladies Gage, Gideon, and Banks. 647] Memoir of J. Neild, Esq. [648 another prison. I had gone alone into the tap, without knowing any person for whom I could inquire, and was glad to leave a shilling for a gallon of beer to secure my person from insult. wards. We had an old German in our chains, the miserable wretches ragged shop, a good Chemist, and he took great and drunk, frightened me so, that it was pleasure in communicating knowledge some time before I durst venture into to me; till, in one of my experiments, I had nearly destroyed myself, and blown up the workshop. This put an end to my chemistry, in which the injudicious use of quicksilver had likewise done my nerves some injury. To the stated About six months afterwards, going hours of work I generally added one or down Wood-street when a felon was two daily; sometimes learning to en- being taken to gaol, I went and peeped grave; sometimes to model, sometimes through the apertures of the wooden. to draw. I was extremely assiduous in grated door, and the turnkey said I whatever I began, but wanted patience might go in; yes, but, says I, will you let to make myself perfect, before a fresh me out again? he said he would; so in pursuit engaged my attention. I learned I went, and looking down a very long to fence tolerably well, and was very flight of steps, a cellar seemed full of expert with the single stick. In 1762 people in irons, drinking; this was callthe young man (W. Pickett) who had ed the tap-room, but I had been so been my elder apprentice, got embar- frightened in Newgate that I durst not rassed, and thrown into the King's venture down. So, putting threepence Bench for debt. As soon as I was into the turnkey's hand, for a pot of beer, acquainted with his situation, I visited was glad when I got into the street again. him. There appeared nothing of what I concluded that all the gaols in which I conceived to be a prison except the felons were confined were the same, and door of admission, and high walls. There my curiosity would bring me to some was a coffee-room and a tap-room, both mischief, therefore dropt the pursuit. filled with persons drinking, though it In 1766, being then in my 22d year, I was Sunday, and I had never before had a desire to see my friends in Cheseen such a number of profligates and shire; but I took the stage only to prostitutes, unabashed, without fears, Derby, intending to pass one day there, without blushes. I thought, to be sure, to see if the gaol was like those in town. all the wicked people in London had This gaol had not been long built, and got together there. With this impres- the situation was both airy and healthy; sion I hastened to his mother's, who there was a large dungeon in it down a lived in Denmark-street, and told her to few steps, but in every respect it was so get him out directly, or he would be much better than Newgate or Woodlost he would be ruined for ever. I street, that it gave me courage to visit visited him several times during his con- others before my return. The conveyfinement, which was not of long dura- ance by the Duke of Bridgewater's Canal tion, nor did it seem any punishment: to Warrington cost me but sixpence ; he felt much less for himself than I felt and for about half a crown more I reachfor him. What became of him after he ed Liverpool, and from thence to Cheswas liberated I know not: I believe he ter for a few shillings. As I had never went to sea: I never saw him after- seen either of these places, I carefully wards. My ideas of a prison not being concealed the motives of my visits, parat all answered in the King's Bench, I ticularly from my uncle, who doated procured admission into Newgate, as far upon me, and made his will during my as the press-yard and the room extending stay, in which he left me almost the over the street, which had a windmill whole of his property. At Liverpool ventilator. In this room all the prison- there was the same promiscuous interers were in irons, and amongst thein, course of the sexes, the same drunkenone, a very stout man, seemingly at the ness going forward, which I had observed point of death. The tap-room was light- in London; but the dungeons were ed by lamps, though it was noon day, worse, and so very offensive I did not and struck me with horror: the shock- stay to examine into them. In the ing imprecations, and the rattling of the Bridewell I saw a ducking-stool rum 649] Memoir of the late J. Neild, Esq. [650 plete, the first I had ever seen; we had apprenticeship, and had taken up my Chatelet. The dungeons were dreadful, and, I then thought, worse than any I had seen in England. There were several prisoners in both, but I think not in irons. My recollection of them is, however, very imperfect. Col. (afterwards Sir Eyre) Coote lodged in the same hotel with us, and I made application to see the Bastile, but was unsuccessful. Mr. Evans said he believed I was prison. |