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Galapagos Archipelago-The whole Group volcanic-Number of
Craters-Leafless Bushes-Colony at Charles Island-James Island
-Salt-lake in Crater-Natural History of the Group-Ornithology,
curious Finches-Reptiles-Great Tortoises, habits of Marine
Lizard, feeds on Sea-weed-Terrestrial Lizard, burrowing habits,
herbivorous-Importance of Reptiles in the Archipelago-Fish,
Shells, Insects-Botany-American Type of Organization-Dif-
ferences in the Species or Races on different Islands-Tameness of
the Birds-Fear of Man, an acquired instinct


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Pass through the Low Archipelago -Tahiti-Aspect-Vegetation on
the Mountains-View of Eimeo-Excursion into the Interior-
Profound Ravines-Succession of Waterfalls-Number of wild
useful Plants-Temperance of the Inhabitants-Their moral State
-Parliament convened-New Zealand-Bay of Islands-Hippahs
-Excursion to Waimate-Missionary Establishment-English
Weeds now run wild-Waiomio-Funeral of a New Zealand
Woman-Sail for Australia


Sydney-Excursion to Bathurst-Aspect of the Woods-Party of
Natives-Gradual Extinction of the Aborigines-Infection gene-
rated by associated Men in Health-Blue Mountains-View of the
grand gulf-like Valleys-Their Origin and Formation-Bathurst,
general Civility of the lower Orders-State of Society-Van Die-
men's Land-Hobart Town-Aborigines all banished-Mount
Wellington-King George's Sound-Cheerless Aspect of the
Country-Bald Head, calcareous Casts of Branches of Trees-Party
of Natives-Leave Australia

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Keeling Island-Singular Appearance-Scanty Flora-Transport of
Seeds-Birds and Insects-Ebbing and flowing Wells-Fields of
dead Coral-Stones transported in the Roots of Trees-Great Crab
-Stinging Corals-Coral-eating Fish-Coral Formations-Lagoon
Islands, or Atolls-Depth at which reef-building Corals can live—
Vast Areas interspersed with low Coral Islands-Subsidence of
their Foundations-Barrier Reefs-Fringing Reefs-Conversion of
Fringing Reefs into Barrier Reefs, and into Atolls-Evidence
of Changes in Level-Breaches in Barrier Reefs-Maldiva Atolls;
their peculiar Structure-Dead and submerged Reefs—Areas of
Subsidence and Elevation-Distribution of Volcanoes-Subsidence
slow, and vast in Amount.


Mauritius, beautiful appearance of Great crateriform Ring of Moun-
tains-Hindoos-St. Helena-History of the Changes in the
Vegetation-Cause of the Extinction of Land-shells-Ascension-
Variation in the imported Rats-Volcanic Bombs-Beds of In-
fusoria-Bahia-Brazil-Splendour of tropical Scenery-Pernam-
buco-Singular Reef-Slavery-Return to England-Retrospect
on our Voyage.










Porto Praya-Ribeira Grande-Atmospheric dust with infusoria-Habits of a sea-slug and cuttle-fish-St. Paul's Rocks, non-volcanic-Singular incrustations-Insects the first colonists of islands-Fernando Noronha -Bahia-Burnished rocks-Habits of a diodon-Pelagic confervæ and infusoria-Causes of discoloured sea.

AFTER having been twice driven back by heavy southwestern gales, Her Majesty's ship Beagle, a ten-gun brig, under the command of Captain Fitz Roy, R. N., sailed from Devonport on the 27th of December 1831. The object of the expedition was to complete the survey of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, commenced under Captain King in 1826 to 1830; to survey the shores of Chili, Peru, and of some islands in the Pacific; and to carry a chain of chronometrical measurements round the world. On the 6th of January we reached Teneriffe, but were prevented landing by fears of our bringing the cholera. The next morning we saw the sun rise behind the rugged outline of the Grand Canary island and suddenly illumine the Peak of Teneriffe, whilst the lower parts were veiled in fleecy clouds. This was the first of many delightful days never to be forgotten. On the 16th of January 1832 we anchored at Porto Praya, in St. Jago, the chief island of the Cape de Verd archipelago.

The neighbourhood of Porto Praya, viewed from the sea, wears a desolate aspect. The volcanic fires of a past age, and the scorching heat of a tropical sun, have in most places rendered the soil unfit for vegetation. The country rises in successive steps of table-land, interspersed with some truncate conical hills, and the horizon is bounded by an irregular chain of more lofty mountains. The scene, as beheld through the hazy atmosphere of this climate, is one of great interest,—if indeed a person fresh from sea, and who has just walked for the first time in a grove of cocoa-nut trees, can be a judge of anything but his own happiness. The island would generally be considered as very uninteresting; but to any one accustomed only to an English landscape, the novel aspect of an utterly sterile land possesses a grandeur which more vegetation might spoil. A single green leaf can scarcely be discovered over wide tracts of the lava plains; yet flocks of goats, together with a few cows, contrive to exist. It rains very seldom, but during a short portion of the year heavy torrents fall, and immediately afterwards a light vegetation springs out of every crevice. This soon withers; and upon such naturally formed hay the animals live. It had not now rained for an entire year. When the island was discovered, the immediate neighbourhood of Porto Praya was clothed with trees, the reckless destruction of which has caused here, as at St. Helena, and at some of the Canary islands, almost entire sterility. The broad, flat-bottomed valleys, many of which serve during a few days only in the season as watercourses, are clothed with thickets of leafless bushes. Few living creatures inhabit these valleys. The commonest bird is a kingfisher (Dacelo Iagoensis), which tamely sits on the branches of the castor-oil plant, and thence darts on grasshoppers and lizards. It is brightly coloured, but not so beautiful as the European species; in its flight, manners,

* I state this on the authority of Dr. E. Dieffenbach, in his German translation of the first edition of this Journal.



and place of habitation-which is generally in the driest valley-there is also a wide difference.

One day two of the officers and myself rode to Ribeira Grande, a village a few miles eastward of Porto Praya. Until we reached the valley of St. Martin, the country presented its usual dull brown appearance; but here a very small rill of water produces a most refreshing margin of luxuriant vegetation. In the course of an hour we arrived at Ribeira Grande, and were surprised at the sight of a large ruined fort and cathedral. This little town, before its harbour was filled up, was the principal place in the island: it now presents a melancholy but very picturesque appearance. Having procured a black padre for a guide, and a Spaniard who had served in the Peninsular War as an interpreter, we visited a collection of buildings, of which an ancient church formed the principal part. It is here the governors and captain-generals of the islands have been buried. Some of the tombstones recorded dates of the sixteenth century.* The heraldic ornaments were the only things in this retired place that reminded us of Europe. The church or chapel formed one side of a quadrangle, in the middle of which a large clump of bananas were growing. On another side was a hospital, containing about a dozen miserable-looking inmates.

We returned to the vêndat to eat our dinners. A considerable number of men, women, and children, all as black as jet, collected to watch us. Our companions were extremely merry, and everything we said or did was followed by their hearty laughter. Before leaving the town we visited the cathedral. It does not appear so rich as the smaller church, but boasts of a little organ, which sent forth singularly inharmonious cries. We presented the black priest

* The Cape de Verd Islands were discovered in 1449. There was a tombstone of a bishop with the date of 1571; and a crest of a hand and dagger, dated 1497. The Portuguese name for an inn.

with a few shillings, and the Spaniard, patting him on the head, said, with much candour, he thought his colour made no great difference. We then returned, as fast as the ponies

would go, to Porto Praya.

Another day we rode to the village of St. Domingo, situated near the centre of the island. On a small plain which we crossed, a few stunted acacias were growing. Their tops had been bent by the steady trade-wind in a singular manner-some of them even at right angles to their trunks. The direction of the branches was exactly north-east by north, and south-west by south, and these natural vanes must indicate the prevailing direction of the force of the trade-wind. The travelling had made so little impression on the barren soil that we here missed our track and took that to Fuentes. This we did not find out till we arrived there; and we were afterwards glad of our mistake. Fuentes is a pretty village, with a small stream; and everything appeared to prosper well, excepting, indeed, that which ought to do so most-its inhabitants. The black children, completely naked, and looking very wretched, were carrying bundles of firewood half as big as their own bodies.

Near Fuentes we saw a large flock of guinea-fowl, probably fifty or sixty in number. They were extremely wary, and could not be approached. They avoided us, like partridges on a rainy day in September, running with their heads cocked up; and if pursued, they readily took to the wing.

The scenery of St. Domingo possesses a beauty totally unexpected, from the prevalent gloomy character of the rest of the island. The village is situated at the bottom of a valley bounded by lofty and jagged walls of stratified lava. The black rocks afford a most striking contrast with the bright green vegetation, which follows the banks of a little stream of clear water. It happened to be a grand feast-day, and the village was full of people. On our return we overtook a party of about twenty young black girls, dressed in ex(100)

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