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friendship and honour, not to attempt to deceive you through a mistaken kindness in the smallest particular, so be assured I hold myself obliged to fulfil my engagement, au pied de la lettre.-Follow me then in ideal jaunt, like Puck's fairy friend,

Over hill, over dale,
Through bush, through brier,
Over park, over pale,
Through food, through fire.

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My journey also must have a fiery end, Mount Vesuvius.—1 tremble at the thought—though perhaps I may be better reconciled to a burning mountain, when I shall feel myself almost petrified to crystal, amidst the eternal snows and iced mountains, towards which we are making all possible expedition. Having quitted Ornon this morn

ing, we arrived at noon at a small town called Pontarlier. Pontarlier ; here we changed horses and dined :

it is a bleak, raw-looking uninteresting place, the road however is tolerable between Ornon and Pontarlier,—but not at all to your taste; a precipice quite considerable enough to terrify you being constantly on one side, the mountain rising on the other; for a considerable part of the way this road appears to wind and turn about the sides of these high hills:--the day has been very fine, and the prospect highly romantic ;-though no where so distant, but that the horizon is distinctly closed

by a chain of mountains clothed up to their summits with pines ;-their situation is rendered particularly striking by the sudden protuberances of the ground which produce them. When the sun had risen so high as to the favourite moment of all landscape-painters, the 45th degree, or (to speak with the vulgar) about ten o'clock, the tops of the firs glistened with refulgent brightness, and the dark shadows' cast by their spreading branches augmented in appearance the real projection of their conical fides.By the majestic nodding of their heads, they seemed to insult, from their superior elevation, the humble trees in the valley below, and capriciously to amuse themselves with suddenly casting monstrous and gigantic shadows on the peaceful plains of green corn in the valley, interspersed with various hues, occasioned by the patches of peas and other pulse now in blossom.Here and there meadows of hay in the various progress of making, and a few poor villages scattered amongst the mountains diversified the scene. These cottages (though far more picturesque in prospect, than the most comfortable of the farmhouses of Halfpenny) are only composed of a few planks and trees loosely fastened together. As we advanced, we began to close with the pines, which had hitherto bounded our view, and which now, dividing themselves at our approach into beautiful vistas, opened out to us irregular lawns, watered by limpid springs gushing forth from amongst the trees, their streams separating into rivulets,

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bordered by various flowers of the lily and Aag kind-but all my pastoral speculations were interrupted by our, arrival at Pontarlier, where, as I have already informed you, we dined.—I do not · invite you to partake in imagination of our ban

quet, for they served us up a stinking chicken, which, after some entreaty, was exchanged for a few eggs, little inferior in ripeness to their chicken. Just as we sat down to our frugal repast, enters a peasant, and says, Voici Monsieur le Marechal.-I was about to rise mechanically, struck with the similarity of the style and title of my visitor to the well-known found at B- , when, behold a dirty blacksmith enters; it seems his Cy. clopian aid had been wanting to our carriage, for which he demanded payment.-On being asked how much would content him, he replied, Six Vaches.--Six Vaches, cried I with astonishment ! The peasant, who felt the cause of my surprise, smiled, and said, he means eighteen sols—which fum in this country goes under the appellation of fix cows. Our host charged us five livres for four eggs; pray how many cows does that make? As soon as our horses were ready, away we drove as fast as possible, each horse doing his best according to their several abilities, for all fix were of different sizes, shapes, colours, and propensities. Our road continued much in the same style with that

of the morning, till we reached the end of our day's Fougné. journey-a place called Jougné. Figure to yourself a ruined castle, situated on the side of a mountain,

emboromed

embosomed in a forest of fir-trees; one of its
towers alone habitable, and that consisting only of
two tolerable rooms. By its date in figures on
one of the stones 1579, it must have been built
in Henry the Third's reign, if I do not mistake.
This castle belongs to the Duke of Rochefoucault,
who is proprietor of thirty-eight Signories conti-
guous to it. The inhabitants of the village are
civil and poor; they are dressed like those montag-
nards who come twice a year to B-- to the expo-
fition of the Sainte Suaire. -And their coiffure is to
the full as surprising.–A long pewter skewer, with
a knob at each end, sustains their Chignon, which
is twisted round it, so that their heads, when
viewed in front, have fomething of the air and
grace of young heifers with budding horns.

Good night; we have just supped on trout, the natives of these mountain rills. I cannot send you this letter from hence, as there is no post-office here,

Sept. 21. At five o'clock in the morning quitting Jougne, we travelled for a league and a half through forests of pines ; after which the roads were bad, the ascents and descents rapid and rough; now and then embarrassed with hollow ways; and we were constantly accompanied by a thick fog.- We dined at a town called Sara. It Sarz. feemed as if this town had marched out of its gates ; for there remained several gates, but very

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few

few houses within them. Here we regaled ourselves on the shoulder of a ram, as high flavoured as though it had belonged to a fox. I fancy we shall not want appetite by the time we reach Geneva.- We are now at Morgels, a Swiss town, where we lie, which is, I think, nine posts from Jougné. But observe, that for the future I shall not trouble myself with calculating how many leagues or posts we travel each day, or how many there are from one wretched bourg to another : if you are curious in this matter, you may confule the post-books, or Richard, or Lalande, &c. Our landscape has quite changed its face, for about four leagues past, to a fine close cultivated country, resembling parts of Berkshire; the fields divided by quickset hedges, clipped and dressed as in Eng

land. We saw Lausanne at a distance. Our road Lake of

lay along the side of the lake of Geneva : it appears as broad as the bay of Southampton; but is neither

smooth nor clear.-On the opposite side appear Mountains

the mountains of Savoy, whose lofty heads rise far of Savoy. above the clouds; which ferve but to conceal a

part of their sides, like drapery wrapped round

them. Morges is a pretty little town, with two Morges.

well-built streets. The Swiss païsannes are much prettier than the French, but they have no air; their faces are fair and clean, but want that countenance the French style piquante : they seem modest, but now of apprehension; so that it is with difficulty they are prevailed upon to answer the • simplest questions. Our inn is clean, and like an

English

Geneva.

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