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as moderate cottages. One reddish rock, in particular, which appeared to be an entire stone, that had rolled to one side of the road, in form and size resembles a small parish-church. The great stones which have fallen into the river, by stopping its course, have caused most rapid cascades, whose white foam dashing from rock to rock, is beautịfully contrasted by the greenness of the stream.This road is particularly dangerous in the spring, when the rocks are most subject to fall, from the weight of the snow that lies upon them, and the washing away of their earth.

Further on, and nearer to St. Michael, there is a variety in this mountainous prospect that is more than romantic. Some of she hills are cleft and torp asunder, as if by earthquakes, a gloomy darkness concealing the inmost recesses of their caverns. Down the sides of others, prodigious cataracts have, in their fall, rooted up aged fir-trees, and thrown them carelessly across each other : some of which are actualły growing with their heads downwards. Near St. Michael, there are mountains whose fides admit of cultivation, the earth being supported by low walls, rising one above the other, țill interrupted by the snow. Vines, and all forts of grain, Aourish luxuriantly on their funny fides. The earth is brought up in baskets fastened to the backs of women and children, as the mountain is too steep for an ass or mule to ascend it. ----We could not perceive any petrifactions or foliis along this road, for which we had a careful look-out;

and

D

3

Miolans, a stateprison.

and as our carriage went Nowly on, I think they must have appeared, had there been any.

We passed by a castle situated upon the top of a very high rock: it is called Miolans, and serves as a state-prison. The king of Sardinia sends hither those who have committed capital crimes against the state. Many years past there was a dreadful instrument of death employed here upon prisoners condemned to die; it was called la fupe plice des razoirs, A cascade, which falls near the castle, turned a mill-wheel, fet round with razors: the condemned wretch, being fastened under this wheel, was soon hashed into a thousand pieces.

Adieu. I do not know when an opportunity will offer to send you this and the foregoing letter, not having met with any post since we left Chamberry.

I am, yours, & Co

Supplice des Ra. zoirs,

2

L E T TER VIII.

DOW

Turin, Oa. 3d. Î Fear you have been uneasy at not hearing from I us sooner. You will probably, at the same time with this letter, receive those I wrote you from Aiguebelle and St. Michael, not having had it in my power to forward them sooner.

In the first place, to put you out of fufpence, I have the pleasure to acquaint you, that we passed the Mont Cennis on the finest day imaginable, are. safely arrived here without the least accident, and now well lodged in the house of the Countess d'Or-b-ns. Now that you are perfectly fatiffied we have not broke our necks down the preci.. pices of Mont Cennis, I shall proceed to tell you, that the remainder of our road from St. Michael to Lanebourg by no means improved upon us. After having ascended a very steep mountain, called St. Andre, with a tremendous precipice on one side, St. Andre, we passed through the Bois de Bramant. This. Bois de forest grows on the side of a mountain, through B which the road is carried, and is of that kind called by the post-boys in Somersetshire, fideling. From thence to the river the precipice is frightful, the height being so considerable that the river appears no broader than a narrow rivulet, and the height from which you look down is nearer a true perpendicular than any I have yet seen. We dined

ra

mant.

Lane

Village of at a village called Modane ; where we saw several Modane,

forts of game, with which the forest abounds ; many of them quite new to us. I was surprised to fee partridges whose feathers become quite white in winter; their breasts and part of their wings are already so; and pheafants, whose feathers are black, and Aesh very brown. The Coq de Bruyere, Gelinottes, and many other birds not known (I believe) in England, are in such abundance here, that the peasants knock them down with sticks.

From Modane to Lanebourg the road is never bourg

level ; part of it, up an exceeding high mountain,
is so zig-zag, that at a little distance, and before
yoụ are quite close to it, it resembles the lacings of
an old-fashioned stomacher. The sharp turnings of
this road convinced me of the neceffity of a two-
wheeled carriage; for four wheels (even with a
crane-neck) cannot easily be conducted along it
with fafety.
· Near Modane, a little on one fide of the road,
is a most beautiful fall of water, which descends
perpendicularly from a prodigious height. We lay
at Lanebourg. Its fituation is really surprising,
the mountains, cascades, and immense rocks,
are so grouped together, that the appearance
of the village is as if by some vast con-
cussion a number of entire cottages had been
thrown amongst these mountains, and in their fall
were pitched some on the tops of rocks, others on
the insides, so as just to find an equilibrium fuffi-

cient to keep them from tumbling into the torrents of water that roar on all sides of them. We had the honour to occupy the royal apartment in the inn; for his Sardinian Majesty has lain here twò or three times, and whatsoever of royal, that pass through Lanebourg, are always lodged in this room : though the walls are literally bare, and the curtains of the bed of very coarse woollen cloth; the windows of paper, and the floor ill paved ; yet this room is not looked upon in a despicable light.

While we were eating a very bad supper, composed of liver and brains, (to what animal they had belonged, I do not pretend to decide) the Syndic of the porters canie in, to calculate how Porter's. many of his subjects we should have occasion for. Four were assigned for me, and six for M-The settled price is fifty Piedmontese sols each. You may imagine we gave him foníething over. One of the porters addressed us in English; he is well known to all our countrymen that travel this road. His name is Martin, and was in service for seven years with the Archbishop of - in Ireland, since which he has travelled through Italy with several English masters. Though he professes to love England, and seems very glad to fee thofe of that nation; yet is he retired to his native mountains, to pass the remainder of his days, preferring these barren rocks, and almoit perpetual nows, to any other country he has seen. Surely

the

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