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large breed; their hair fiery red.. The liqueurs, particularly those of the manufacture of Giachimo Gnudi, are famous, and sent, as also the sausages, to most parts of Europe; the rosa sola, or rosselia di anesino is the best. All kinds of confectionaries are made in great perfection; the cotognati, or jelly of quince, is particularly fine. I have got the receipts for all the kinds of sausages, the liqueurs, and the cotognati. Their grapes are excellent, which they have the art of preserving for eight or nine months, in such perfection as to appear newly gathered. I informed myself also in regard to this article of the menage. The best and most esteemed kinds are the Uva Paradisa, and the Uva Angola: the seeds are oval, and the skins of the fruit uncommonly thin and tender. They value themselves upon a species of melon, which they believe to be the best in the world; but the feason is now over for them. The white truffles are as good as those of Turin, excepting that Alayour of garlic, which the Piedmontese admire in their own. The Bologna tobacco and snuff is esteemed the best in Italy. The breed of lap-dogs peculiar to this country, are extremely beautiful. Madama Aldrovandi was so very obliging as to fend me one of the most perfect I ever saw, upon a magnificent velvet cushion, trimmed with gold. fringe* ; but I found myself under a necessity of


* It was curled (frisée), and ornamented with rose-coloured ribbon round the neck and legs.

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refusing this pretty creature ; my chief reason was; that I could not think of making my own dog * * uneasy, who has been my faithful companion and friend since I left * * *, and she shewed such a visible jealousy and disgust to this little stranger, that I determined not to vex her; however, I did not venture to give this reason for my refusal, left I should be laughed at, but alleged, that one dog was sufficiently embarrassing upon a journey, and that if any accident should happen from change of climate, &c. to this Bologna beauty, it would be

a great vexation to me. : Natura! Many natural curiosities are found in the neighcuriositius.

bourhood of this city; the moft remarkable are the rock-crystal, of which there is great abun. dance near the river Setta, and curious petrifactions near the Castello Crespellana; but there is nothing so extraordinary as the Pietra de Monte Paderno, of which the famous phosphorus of Bologna is composed; it is called il cuminabile, or Spongia di luce : they are found only in this moun: tain near the town; and require but a fimple cal. cination, when they immediately become luminous, casting a red, fiery light in an obscure place: they retain this property three years, and then by a recalcination, become as luminous as after the first. I have got some of this phosphorus, which one of the professors of the Instituto was so obliging to present me with, together with some crystallized petrified shells found in this country, remarkably curious. If the old proverb is true, that sa rolling stone will never gather moss,” yet reverse it, and rolling moss may gather stones; for, supposing me to represent the moss; my collection of fossils, if they augment in proportion to what they have hitherto done, may, I fear, endanger the bottoms of our trunks. But to return to the phosphorus; in its natural, or brute ftate, it seems to be a species of talc, with shining crystalline particles; no shells are ever found in it, and it rarely happens, that a phosphorus stone is composed of a sparry substance. We propose reaching Florence the 17th or 18th, and have been told the inns are bad on the road, but the Cardinal Legate has been so obliging as to give us a letter for the superior of a convent situated on the Appenine: this is a very great favour; for it is a strong exertion of his power to prevail upon the monks to receive a woman (at least publicly) within their sacred walls. I am quite charmed with the idea of neeping in this convent, and furprising the monks, for they are to have no previous notice; but the order is of such a nature, that they must admit and entertain us at whatever hour we may happen to arrive ; his Eminence has some humour in this affair. We have also letters of recommendation to Florence and Rome, which must be attended with pleasing consequences to us in those cities. * * * * * * * * * *


I have just received a fine pheasant, a present from la Contessa Orsi; it was accompanied by a beautiful bouquet, composed of three great carna

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tions ;

hat they may hapis affal

cions; I am fure a large saucer would not cover
the flower of any of them, and a great variety of
fine ranunculuses: the bouquet and a note were
tied with a rosette of rose-coloured ribbon to the
pheasant's feet: how graceful are these people in
every trife! These fine flowers are in the common
beds at this season; and what is very surprising,
Snow, though it lies on the ground, does not
affect them. There is a species of fennel hese,
which is excellent, eat as cellery; it has a fine
sweet taste, without the acrid Alayour of ouş Eng-
lish fennel; is cultiyated like our cellery, in
ridges, but must be raised in a common hot-bed in
the month of March; when it has been tranf-
planted and earthed up, it blanches like cellery,
but always retains a greenish caft; it is extremely
tender, and breaks off short; they serve it in the
deserts. There are great plenty of Maltese oranges
fold here in the fruit-shops, yery cheap; they
have the finest favour imaginable; and as to their
size, it is too incredible to be committed to paper:
le vrai, you know, is not always le vrai semblable.
Adieu. I hope we shall have tolerable weather for
our journey. * * * * * * * * *
* * * * * * * * I shall write agaiq
immediately on our arrival at Florence,

P. S. The streets, for these two or three days past, have been crowded with Jesuits ; their numþer in this town cply exceeds four thousand: they



are arrived from Paraguay and Spain, &c. many of them appear to be in extreme want and distress: the greater number are on their way to Rome, to fee what their holy papa will do for them. We were amazed to see such a crowd of these new arrivals at the opera as almost filled the pit. These seemed to be in tolerable circumstances. They wear the habit of their order; and for the most part appear pitiable objects. The populace load them with maledictions as they pass, and refuse to bestow upon them the smallest assistance.


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