the future give us only a foup, an entrée, and something roasted, with a plate or two of gardenftuff, and a defert, and to vary the dishes as he faw proper. He was fo amazed at our want of appetite, or moderation, that he concluded our request might proceed from fome vow of abftinence made in order to bribe Heaven to profper our journey. Such bargains are frequently ftruck in these countries between particulars and certain favourite Saints. The votive pictures with which every church is adorned, proves the universality of the commerce. But to return to our hoft, who really behaved in a most genteel and difinterested manner; for finding us refolved to eat no more than we could eat, he propofed a diminution of the price (I had informed him we chose to have a lighter fupper, proportioned to our dinner), and that if he would find bread, butter, and cream for our breakfast, I did not defire to take from what we had agreed to give. He seemed much surprised, faid he should get too much by my proposal, and infifted on providing us, into the bargain, with coffee or chocolate, as we should choose. The behaviour of this man gave us a favourable impreffion of the Bolognefe. We have seen nothing of the town to-day; for I have been employed with hiring valets de place, feeing chamber-maids, choofing one, unpacking, and inquiring about coaches and chairs. A job-coach and coachman cofts thirteen paolos, or fix livres ten fols a day, French; a chair eight paolos. We propose ftaying ten days here. I believe our letters of recommendation to this town, will prove extremely convenient, and agreeable in their confequences. We propose fending them to-morrow to their respective addreffes. I expect letters from you every moment.Here they are. We both fincerely rejoice that you and are in good health. I shall not fend this letter to the poft till to-mor row. I have just refigned my head to the operation of ornamenting its outside by a very good hairdreffer, who lives near this houfe, and is known by the name of Etienne; he torments me to recommend him to my countrywomen, who may happen to pass through Bologna. Alas, this Frenchman thinks I must know every individual in his Britannic Majefty's dominions; for upon telling him, that if he performed well, I would endeavour to recommend him to my acquaintance, he did not seem thoroughly fatisfied. What a diminutive fpeck ignorant foreigners fuppofe Enggland to be? Etienne dreffes extremely well, is a very humble, well-behaved man, and reasonable in his price. We have had the pleasure of finding here the two English gentlemen we met at Turin and Genoa. It is a very agreeable circumstance, that we we may always flatter ourselves with feeing fome English acquaintance in every confiderable town of Italy. Nov. 29th, past 12 o'clock at night. I could not fend this letter to-day, as I intended. * Having dispatched our letters of recommendation this morning about eleven o'clock, we received the most obliging answers; and have already met with civilities, that I think are unprecedented even in French politeness and urbanity. We had scarcely dined when a fort of confused noife at our inn-gate announced fomething extraordinary. This proceeded from the arrival of his Eminence the Cardinal Legate, who did us the honour to come in person to make us a visit, in confequence of our letter of recommendation from the Cardinal of Choiffeuil. Our hoft was in great perturbation on his arrival, as he is Viceroy* here, and vested by the Pope with defpotic authority; the fenate enjoying but few privileges, and little or no power. What to do with his equerries, pages, and foot-guards we did not know (his little body of 30 light horse drew up in the street before the house). Our kind host, who understood our looks upon this occafion, opened the doors of the adjacent apartments for them. *This Prince is of the illuftrious house of Branchin Forti of Sicily, who have intermarried with the Colonnas, &c. Sc. His Eminence is a very polite old gentleman; he bears hard upon his grand climacteric, is hale and ftrong, good-humoured and lively; he has done us the honour to invite us in the most friendly manner to dine with him, and to his box at the opera. He had not been above five minutes with us before the Countefs of Oi was announced. She is a fine woman, fpeaks French, as does the C-1 very well. * * The Senator Aldrovandi and his lady arrived foon after, and made us the most obliging offers of their equipages during our stay, and propofed coming at a fixed hour every morning to conduct us to the palaces and churches, and every evening to the corfo, opera, and the affemblies at private houses, which they say are very agreeable. We accepted their kind offers, except in regard to the equipage, as there was no poffibility of refufing them; for they faid, they infifted on ferving us while we should stay in this town. This expreffion means, that ftrangers recommended are to make ufe of the perfons they are recommended to, in regard to themselves and every thing belonging to them; and I understood that what I had been told at Turin was very juft, namely, that if a stranger happens to have many letters of recommendation, he ought to fink all above one, or at most two, to the fame town; otherwise he is not near fo well ferved, as when this method is obferved; for it is almoft impoffible to divide one's time properly amongst several families, families, though they fhould happen to be well together; but if, unfortunately, the recommendatory letters chance to be addreffed to families that are at variance, the reception of the ftrangers ferves only to make the breach wider, and may oblige the latter d'entrér en matiere, which probably may be productive of difagreeable confequences to all parties. Thus we have fuppreffed fome of ours, and I am fure we fhall not regret our having fo done. The family to whofe guidance a stranger refigns himself, introduces him in the most kind manner into the fociety of all their acquaintance, as we have experienced this evening; for at the departure of the Cardinal Legate, and the other company above mentioned, the fenator and his lady called upon us about feven o'clock, to accompany them to the opera, where after having first gone into his Eminence's box, and made him a vifit of about a quarter of an hour, they introduced us into the boxes, and to the acquaintance of fome of the principal families here. * * The Vice-legate and the fifter of the Countess. Orfi ; the Barbazza, the Zambecari, the two fifters, Marchefe's Maruli and Laniani, one remarkable for her beauty, the other for her wit; the latter speaks French well, and has attained the air and manner of a genteel Frenchwoman; the family of B--, and others whofe names I cannot recollect. After |