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the future give us only a soup, an entrée, and something roasted, with a plate or two of gardenItuff, and a desert, and to vary the dishes as he saw proper. He was so amazed at our want of appetite, or moderation, that he concluded our request might proceed from some vow of abfti. nence made in order to bribe Heaven to prosper our journey. Such bargains are frequently struck in these countries between particulars and certain favourite Saints. The votive pictures with which every church is adorned, proves the universality of the commerce. But to return to our host, who really behaved in a most genteel and disinterested manner; for finding us resolved to eat no more than we could eat, he proposed a diminution of the price (I had informed him we chose to have a lighter supper, proportioned to our dinner), and that if he would find bread, butter, and cream for our breakfast, I did not desire to take from what we had agreed to give. He seemed much surprised, said he should get too much by my proposal, and insisted on providing us, into the bargain, with coffee or chocolate, as we should choose. The behaviour of this man gave us a favourable impression of the Bolognese. . We have seen nothing of the town to-day; for I have been employed with hiring -valets de place, seeing chamber-maids, choosing one, unpacking, and inquiring about coaches and chairs. A and coachman costs thirteen paolos, or lix livres ten sols a day, French; a chair eight paolos. We propose staying ten days here. I believe our letters of recommendation to this town, will prove extremely convenient, and agreeable in their consequences. We propose sending them to-morrow to their respective addresses. I expect letters from you every moment. — Here they are.

We both sincerely rejoice that you and -are in good health. * I shall not send this letter to the post till to-mor. row.

I have just resigned my head to the operation of ornamenting its outside by a very good hair. dreffer, who lives near this house, and is known by the name of Etienne; he torments me to recommend him to my countrywomen, who may happen to pass through Bologna. Alas, this Frenchman thinks I must know every individual in his Britannic Majesty's dominions; for upon telling him, that if he performed well, I would endeavour to recommend him to my acquaintance, he did not seem thoroughly satisfied. What a diminutive speck ignorant foreigners suppose Enggland to be ? Etienne dresses extremely well, is a very humble, wellbehaved man, and reasonable in his price.

We have had the pleasure of finding here the two English gentlemen we met at Turin and Genoa. It is a very agreeable circumstance, that


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we may always flatter ourselves with feeing fome English acquaintance in every considerable town of Italy.

Nov. 29th, past 12 o'clock at night. I could not send this letter to-day, as I intended. * * * * * * * * * * * * Having dispatched our letters of recommendation this morning about eleven o'clock, we received the most obliging answers; and have already met with civilities, that I think are unprecedented even in French politeness and urbanity.

We had scarcely dined when a sort of confused noise at our inn-gate announced something extraordinary. This proceeded from the arrival of his Eminence the Cardinal Legate, who did us the honour to come in person to make us a visit, in consequence of our letter of recommendation from the Cardinal of Choiffeuil. Our host was in great perturbation on his arrival, as he is Viceroy * here, and vested by the Pope with despotic authority; the senate enjoying but few privileges, and little or no power. * * * * * * * * * * * * What to do with his equerries, pages, and foot-guards we did not know (his little body of 30 light horse drew up in the street before the house). Our kind host, who understood our looks upon this occasion, opened the doors of the adja. cent apartments for them.

• This Prince is of the illustrious house of Branchin Forti of Sicily, who have intermarried with the Colonnas, &c. &c. X 3


His Eminence is a very polite old gentleman; he bears hard upon his grand climacteric, is hale and strong, good-humoured and lively; he has done us the honour to invite us in the most friendly manner to dine with him, and to his box at the opera. He had not been above five minutes with us before the Countess of 0.4 i was announced. She is a fine woman, speaks French, as does the C l very well. * * * * * * * * * The Senator Aldrovandi and his lady arrived soon after, and made us the most obliging offers of their equipages during our stay, and proposed coming at a fixed hour every morning to conduct us to the palaces and churches, and every evening to the corso, opera, and the assemblies at private houses, which they say are very agreeable. We accepted their kind offers, except in regard to the equipage, as there was no poflibility of refusing them; for they said, they insisted on serving us while we should stay in this town. This expression means, that strangers recommended are to make use of the persons they are recommended to, in regard to themselves and every thing belonging to them; and i understood that what I had been told at Turin was very juft, namely, that if a stranger happens to have many letters of recommendation, he ought to sink all above one, or at most two, to the fame town; otherwise he is not near' so well served, as when this niethod is obferved; for it is almoft imposfible to divide one's time properly amongst several


families, though they should happen to be well together; but if, unfortunately, the recommendatory letters chance to be addressed to families that are at variance, the reception of the strangers serves only to make the breach wider, and may oblige the latter d'entrér en matiere, which probably may be productive of disagreeable consequences to all parties. Thus we have suppressed some of ours, and I am sure we shall not regret our having so done. The family to whose guidance a stranger resigns himself, introduces him in the most kind manner into the society of all their acquaintance, as we have experienced this evening; for at the departure of the Cardinal Legate, and the other company above mentioned, the senator and his lady called upon us about seven o'clock, to accompany them to the opera, where after having first gone into his Eminence's box, and made him a visit of about a quarter of an hour, they introduced us into the boxes, and to the acquaintance of some of the principal families here.

The Vice-legate and the fifter of the Countess Orh * * * . * * *



* '*;
* '*. the Rou'

the Barbazza, the Zambecari, the two sisters, Marchese's Maruli and Laniani, one remarkable for her beauty, the other for her wit; the latter speaks French well, and has attained the air and manner of a genteel Frenchwoman; the family of B-, and others whose names I cannot recollect. After

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