imprisonment. However, government had compaffion on him, and released him from his confinement at the end of twenty-four hours.

There is a road now making from Parma in a direct line to Genoa; it will be finished in a year or two; the cause affigned for this communication is the benefit of trade, but it is fufpected that the real motive is to open a free paffage for the French and Spaniards, without their being obliged to traverfe the Sardinian dominions: it is alfo believed that fome foreign power defrays the principal part of the expence. Adieu. We touch upon the moment of our departure for Modena.

P. S. I forgot to mention the prices of jobcoaches here, which is very reasonable, fix livres ten fols of France by the day, and thirty fols each laquai de louage.

LET.

LETTER XXIII.

Modena, November 25th.

river.

A

FTER a very agreeable little journey from Parma, we arrived here in perfect health yesterday the roads are good the whole way; they are ftill part of the Via Emilia. We paffed Reggio. through Reggio, which is half-way between Parma and Modena, equidiftant from both (fif teen miles); having croffed two rivers, one in a bark, the other by fording. One of these, called Secchia the Secchia, is between Reggio and Modena, and is frequently rendered impaffable by the rains; fo that all communication between these towns is cut off till the waters fubfide; but this inconvenience feldom continues for more than three or four days. The other river is called the Rubiera, juft on the river and other fide of an old fortified town, called by the fame name, three leagues only from Reggio. BeGuastalla, tween Parma and Reggio lies Guaftalla, about four leagues to the left, where the famous battle was fought in 1734, in which the French were victorious. To the right is fituated an old for. Conofa. trefs, called Conofa, feven leagues from Parma. This caftle belonged to the countefs Matilda, and is celebrated for the abfolution beftowed by Gregory VII. upon the Emperor Henry IV. who was ordered to repair to this caftle to receive it.

Rubiera

town.

Keyfler

Keyfler fays, he was obliged to stand during very fevere cold weather three whole days in the courtyard, dreffed in a penitential garment, barefooted, without meat or drink, and implore his pardon with tears, before the Pope could be prevailed upon to receive him again into the bofom of the Church. This famous Matilda, and old Pope Gregory, were great friends; we are taught to fuppofe that nothing more than a belle paffion fubfifted between them.

Between Reggio and Modena we paffed within

a league of the bourg Corregio, where the great Corregio. painter of that name was born.

Reggio appears to be pretty large; the street, we drove through extends the whole length of the town; it is wide, tolerably built and paved, with arcades on each fide, and fhops under them; but the town has a naked dreary appearance; and the people feem much poorer than thofe of Parma. There is very little to be feen at Reggio: in the cathedral is a large picture by Annibal Carracci, Cathedral. the drawing is fine, the colouring has been good; Carra but it is placed in a bad light, and is much chio. blackened by damps; it reprefents the Virgin and the infant Jefus in the clouds, with kneeling

faints.

Annibal

della

In the church of the Madonna della Giarra is a Madonna fine picture by Guercino, the fubject a cruci- Giarra fixion; at the foot of the crofs is the Madona in church. an agony of grief, fupported by two women, one appears to be Mary Magdalen; at her fide ftands a VOL. I.

U

bishop;

Modena.

Ducal

bishop; the head of an angel from a cloud clofe to one fide of the crofs, is greatly and deservedly admired. Our Saviour is juft expiring on the crofs; the head is admirably well done, as is the face and the mufcles of the body. It is to be regretted, that this picture is in fo deplorable a condition. There are other pictures in this church worth your attention, though not in a great ftyle.

Modena is fituated agreeably upon a plain, well built, ornamented with fountains and porticoes, under which you may walk very conveniently the whole length of the streets: the Strada Maiftra is the best built. There are two large hofpitals, one for the foldiers, another for the Bourgeoife, and an Albergo for beggars. The Duke of Modena commonly refides at Milan; but is here at present, and distinguishes the English so far beyond all other foreigners, that they are permitted to fee the palace at any hour they choose, without any previous notice, and quite undressed; even boots are not objected to: this is an exclufive privilege: I wish he was of as amiable a character in other refpects as he is diftinguished for politeness.

We are tolerably lodged, well ferved, and very reasonably; four paols a head only for each repaft, the eatables good, and well dreffed; one paol a day for each fire, and no charge for our beds or rooms.

The Ducal Palace is by much the finest edifice Palace. here; it stands alone in a great piazza, and in the

best

best quarter of the town. The architecture is both majestic and elegant; the architect was Avanzini. Avanzini. The court is vaft, and furrounded by colonades, which have a fine effect. The great stair-cafe is

in a noble stile of architecture, and makes a striking appearance.

The Grand Apartment commences by a large Grand Afaloon (in the middle of the front), which leads partment. you to fix large rooms, and to a cabinet entirely lined with looking glaffes, beautifully gilt and ornamented.

The faloon is ftriking at firft entrance; but you foon perceive the tribunes which furround the top to be too low, and the confoles that fupport them out of proportion, maffive, and heavy: the other decorations are fudden, and not linked together with that graceful dependance that might eafily have been given them. . This faloon would appear to greater advantage was it preceded by an antichamber. The ceiling is painted in oils, by Mark Antonio Francefchini: it is not ill done, though the colours are much too feeble.

Mark Antonio Francefchini.

Antonio
Cofetti of

In the canopy-room is a Martyrdom of a St. Peter, a Dominican Monk, by Antonio Cofetti of Modena, a tolerable picture. A Judith, by Gu- Modena. ercino fhe is too mafculine, and appears like a ftout male Ifraelite in woman's clothes. This painting, however, has merit for a boldnefs of design and good colouring; but always too much of the lilac.