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common prisons of the city, from whence they are conveyed suddenly and privately to the prison of the holy court; their removal is so well con. cealed, that their families and friends send them provisions daily to the common prison, long after they have been removed to that of the Inquisition, which you may be sure are not thrown away.

The power of the Inquisitors is esteemed by the Genoese a mere bugbear; judge then what it must be in other countries where they are invested with all the plenitude of sway the Dominicans desire. Can we ever sufficiently acknowledge the being born in a country, and under a government, where this bloody tribunal is unknown, and from whence Popery, with all her train of mischiefs, has been totally banished ?

I believe you will not object to quitting the Galleys and the Inquisition for another subject. We were last night at the play (for at present there is no opera); the theatre is rather large than small, but not beautiful, either as to architecture or painting. All the boxes below stairs are shut in with jalousies, except when the owners choose to 1hew themselves to the audience; at which time they light them up with wax candles, and the jalousies are removed. I think the play we saw meant to be a tragedy, as Harlequin kills several people on the stage; but it cannot be esteemed an epic poem; for, to the best of my knowledge, there was neither beginning, middle, nor end. This piece of confusion began at seven o'clock,


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and lasted till eleven. Several pistols were fired
to rouse the attention of the numbering audience.
There were magicians, devils, constables, fine
ladies, robbers, princes, ambassadors, and troops
of wooden horses. The audience talked louder
than the actors. The ladies turn their backs to :
the stage, which has an impertinent, ill-bred ap-
pearance. There was dancing, and no respite
between the acts. It seemed to me, the actors
might have continued killing each other, till not
a man remained alive to speak the epilogue; but
I suppose the piece ended from their being,

through fatigue, disabled to proceed, or the play - might have lasted till now.

We have passed a couple of fine days most agreeably, in seeing the villa-palaces and gardens, Villa-pa

laces. though they disappointed our expectations in many respects; for were the poffessors English, neatness, order, propriety, and consistency would unite their aid to embellish Nature. Instead of which, we find water, trees, and ground, as if arranged by the Holy Tribunal. The first confined in ill-Ihapen basons, or fpirted out of leaden pipes, without any kind of meaning, or end proposed, but that of procuring an ill-natured amusement for the company and gardener, by spoiling the clothes, and wetting fuch people as servants, &c. who dare not shew any resentment. The trees are cut, clipped, and tortured into fans, bells inverted, umbrellas, &c. and the ground torn up to make a sort of hanging-gardens and parterres

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a l'Angloise. However, there is one garden which has escaped the general fate; it belongs to a Doria, who usually resides at Rome (I think his additional name is Pamfili). These gardens are, more properly speaking, orchards of orange and lemon trees, as large as old apple trees, and are loaded with fruit whose branches bend beneath their golden burden. There is a sort of cottage situated upon the summit of a rising ground, and embo. somed in a thicket of the above trees, where strangers are permitted to dine. The people who belong to its owner provided us a dinner, conlisting chiefly of fifh and fruit, with tolerable wine, at a very moderate price. The garden Nopes suddenly down to the road; at the end is an iron pallisade painted green, and immediately on the other side of the road you have the sea, which appears to the greatest advantage, there being no surf." The sun was setting, and shone with such refulgent beams upon the orange-trees, pomegranates, and myrtle in blossom, that we could have fancied ourselves in the garden of the Hespe. rides; nothing was wanting to augment the deception, except the dragon, whose presence I would rather supply by the force of imagination. co . - Behind the villa is a rising ground, well planted with ilex, or ever-green oak; though now much neglected, it admits of being made extremely beautiful. The pipes and conveyances of water, to produce jets d'eau, &c. have cost a great deal


of money, and are seldom in order. There is near this forest of ilexes a pretence to a piece of water, with a wretched morsel of rock-work in the midst, distinguished by the appellation of un Isole. This piece of machinery is lined with pipes, a man concealed from fight foon convinces the too curious visitor that there may still be a Ligurian in the territory of Genoa; for after he has taken the trouble to ascend a painful kind of steep woodwalk, and feated himself under the protecting shade of some of these venerable ilexes, unsufpicious of the treacherous entertainment the man of the island has prepared for him; upon a sud. den, the ilexes, from every branch, pour down an abundant shower, the bank he sits on acts against the descending rains with repeated efforts, till a general engagement of squirts concludes the amusement.--In a finall inclosure of this wood, we perceived a wild boar, fow and pigs, who, climbing up against the wall, expected bread from us, having been in some measure tamed. We did not see the villa ; the servants said it was in so bad a condition within, that they could not possibly shew it, assuring us there was neither picture, ftatue, nor any thing worth looking at.

As to the other villas, those of Durazza, Spinola, and another whose owner's name I forget, their plans are so well calculated for the great heats, that they are at present bleak, raw, and windy, no fires, no window or bed curtains; the rooms all waihed with water colour (painted in L P 4

fresco); fresco); the foors bricked. The outsides of these palaces are the most beautiful part, seen at a proper distance; the marble glistening in the sea, and the architecture (often) strikingly noble in the elevations, give a great idea of the wealth and noble manners of the modern Genoese. But, alas! where is that consistency the want of which you and I used to complain of in the Luxembourg, the Louvre, Versailles, &c? it is not to be found at Genoa. We are agreed, that we have seen a fufficient number of their first villas, to entitle us to trust to descriptions for the beauties of those wę have not seen.

I pass this evening at home by the side of a great wood fire, for it rains hard, and the seabreeze is yery cold. On looking here and there

over this letter, I find I have omitted to make Armory. mention of the Armory. The greatest curiosity it

contains, seems to me to be, certain armour which Women's some heroines made use of, in a Crusade to the armour.

Holy Land, in the year 1301, and the Pontific cate of Boniface VIII. In the archives, are faid, to be deposited three letters of his Holiness's concerning these Genoese ladies. This armour is nicely contrived for women, yet there are some ridiculous peculiarities belonging to it. Amongst other singular warlike matters, a wooden cannon, lined in the inside with a thin plate of brass, and a sword with a pistol in it, seemed to me the most extraordinary,


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