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490, “ La Chapelle de l'Albergo est jolie; on y voit un bas relief de Michael Ange; c'est la tête d'un Vierge qui voit Jesus Christ mort, et sur le maitre autel une belle asomption en marbre, du Puget. Sa tête a quelque chose de divin.”

" A ce noble couroux

Je reconnois mon sang." Here is a virgin ascending to heaven as a dame d'atour would ascend the great staircase at Verfailles. What Rouncing and plaising of drapery, what plunging and Auttering; but it is no matter, a Frenchman guided the chilel. Sa tête a quelque chose de divin. If she had had but a chinion à la du Barré, a toupet bien frisée, et des boucles mignionnes til maron, Laland would have been in ecstasy.

There are others besides this hospital, where the sick are said to be equally attended to; but I have been very exact, and even tedious in regard to the Albergo; as we inquired particularly, and went there ourselves to have ocular demonstration of what we had heard. But before I quit the topic of charity, I think it but just to mention one private family, who are worthy members indeed of any republic, let their profession of faith be what it will. The Cambeaces, of which there are now five families, were originally sprung from trade, being merchants ; about an hundred years since they were ennobled. They give every day a bowl of soup, and a pound of bread, to each of the poor who present themselves at their gate; if it so happen, that at any time there is not sufficient of

foup loup for all, the grown persons receive four fols each, and the children two in lieu of it. The number of poor is generally from three to five hundred: they are for the most part strangers, French, Piedmontese, Lombards, and Milanese; Tor there are not many natives of the republic in luch neceflitous circumstances as to want bread. They also give, once a year, to poor women who apply for them, a smock, with a cor set and petticoat; to the men, a shirt, a great coat, with a hood to it, a pair of breeches and shoes. At the end of the year, those who present themselves in the clothes that had been given them, are imme. diately new-clad; but others who shew no remains of the late bounty, have their conduct ftri&tly Icrutinised ; as some unworthy objects have been known to abuse the goodness of this family, by pretending to be in distressed circumstances, and have vilely disposed of the charitable donations they had received. However, all possible cauton is used to prevent imposition, as a certificate of the curée of the parish is generally required, in order to ascertain the truth in regard to their po. verty, oc. One of the brothers, late a very conliderable banker, I think at Venice, bequeath. (d, at his death, an income for ever to this cha"Yequal to that proportion of his fortune which' Chad annually devoted to it. I forgot to men

that a little of the soup out of the great

s always carried to one of the family to taste, before

efore it is distributed to the poor, left by

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the want of attention, or neglect of servants, it
should not be good. We both had also the curio-
fity to taste it, and found it very good pease-foup.
This charity is thought by some people to aug.
ment the number of poor; possibly it may; but
surely this family ought not to lose their reward. It
is remarkable that the great expence which they
are at, has had no tendency to diminish their cir.
cumstances; as they have, for more than a cen-

tury past, been increasing in riches.
Galleys As the quay, where the galleys lie, is not far
ad llaves. from our inn, I have been to see them; we had no

sooner reached it, than we met a whole posle of
gallerians extremely drunk and good humoured.
It seems it was St. Martin's-day, and a high festi.
val amongst the galley-slaves. They all with one
voice cried out to us, in very bad Italian, to this
effect : “Illustrious personages, give a little money
to poor Christians, who have entirely abandoned
Mahomet, and have taken to the worthy cause of
Christianity.” We complied with the request, to
get rid of their clamour, when having but just
passed them, I started at a most strange and sud.
den noise, which was immediately followed by
bursts of applause and laughter; I turned to see
what had happened, when, lo! one of the good
Christians having tumbled into a porridge-pot,
lay extended on the pavement, invoking all Ma.
homet's Paradise to his succour. Having reached
a large galley, we went on board by the means of
planks instantly put out from it for that purpose,




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They received us most hospitably, and feated us
on a kind of elevated deck at one end, which is
protected from the sun. In a few moments ap-
peared a small band of musicians, chained two and
two; for the polite arts are not unknown on board
the galleys ; so great a variety of people, of every
rank and condition in life, are there (unhappily)
to be found. Their music was by no means bad,
but the wretched appearance of the musicians
shocked me at first, particularly their poor legs,
which were naked, almost black, and, of fome,
the flesh had partly grown over their fetters.
Whilit these were playing, others brought us bis-
cuits and coffee. Not having much stomach for
music or refreshments, I expressed my wish to
walk along the galley, in order to shorten a visit,
the strange appearar.ce of our hosts rendered irk.
fome to me. I thought I should never have
reached the end; the flaves chained to the oars
imploring us to listen to the detail of their cala-
mities, and to give them money. The galleys
are really of a very great length, though I allow
my uneasiness may have helped to extend this one.
The Turkish prisoners on board of them are com-
puted to be about 350 at present. There are fel-
dom any women taken ; when that happens, they
are presented to the noble Genoese ladies, who
employ them in the most menial departments of
their households. Ma informs me, and he
has been at pains to learn the particulars, that in
time of war each galley carries about 400 men,


eighteen nine pounders, and two fixteen ; each
piece of cannon is served by fix men, two of which
are Turks, two condemned Genoese, and the other
two of those who have sold themselves to the re-
public. In time of peace, and in the summer
(the only season they can put out to sea), each
galley carries 200 men only; they have thirty
livres per month wages, and all maintenance. A
tax raised, of eight sols the head, is levied upon
each Genoese, for the permission to eat butter,
eggs, and cream in Lent; which money is appro-
priated to defray the expences of the galleys.
Also each Noble pays from fifty to an hundred
livres for himself and family, for the enjoyment of
the above privilege; which, upon calculation,
amounts to about 20,000 livres annually. This
sum goes also to the support of their galleys. Be.
fides Turks, who have been taken prisoners, and
those Genoele condemned for their crimes, for a
limited time, or for life, there are a third fort
who sell themselves; amongst whom are Italians
of other states, Piedmontese, and even French,
who offer themselves to sale for the space of two
years certain, for fixty livres; but many of them
have been known to have continued naves by a
progressive sale of themselves for the rest of their
lives. Those, who behave well, live much more
comfortably than their fellows; and there is
always a considerable distinction made between
these voluntary bondmen and their companions ; :
they, for instance, are allowed to have little shops,

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