Annonciata Church. In the Church of the Annonciata, over the door of entrance, is a Laft Supper, by Julio Cefare Julio Ce- Procaccino; we must regret its being fo much caccino. blackened, and otherwise spoiled, as it has been a very fine picture. The painting in the cupola is fare Pro Gioretto. not contemptible. In the Sacrifty are four picSarzano. tures, by Sarzano; and two others by one Giocino Giocino Gioretto. That which represents Esau selling his birth-right, is the best: there is great spirit and force in the figures. This church is (to my taste) the finest in Genoa. On entering, the folemnity and majefty which ought to accompany every temple is wonderfully striking, Where through the long drawn isle And fretted vault, the pealing anthem, &c. As our inn (the Post-house) is very near, we have oftener visited it, than we might otherwise have done. Here is a profusion of marble, the lustre of which dazzles the fight; certain twisted columns of a very rare fpecies, resembling the fineft clouded agate, and Egyptian pebbles affembled together in large maffes; the mouldings, frizes, &c. all gilt; the pillars that fupport the roof are marble, fluted, and finely veined with red; the fteps up to the altar, the balluftrades, &c. are all of marble, white as fnow. Proftrate on these steps, we faw a very old man, poorly dreffed, who licked them with his tongue, defcribing croffes, from one end to the other of the steps; steps; this he repeated every day at the fame hour. I was curious to know why this man perfevered in fo fingular and disgusting a penance; upon inquiry, I learnt from our Ciceroni, that during his youth he had been employed in the tobacco manufactory; that he had been remarkably debauched; and that his profeffion of faith had been to fear nothing here or hereafter. That, to the Ciceroni's own knowledge, he had committed more than twelve affaffinations; the motive for the greatest number of these murders had been his most violent choler, and an insatiable thirst of revenge. He grew very rich, quitted his business, married, and had three or four children; one of his fons was killed a few years ago on the steps of this church, by a barber who bore him. malice. This murderer now keeps a fhop in the neighbourhood, which the Ciceroni fhewed me. To avoid falling into the hands of justice, he concealed himself on board an English or Dutch fhip for a fhort time; after which he reappeared and continued his business. This is no uncommon plan at Genoa; un colpo di coltello is seen in much the fame light here, as the bruises and contufions acquired by the athletic difciples of the renowned Slack and Nailer in England. But to return to the old finner; having lived in riot and debauchery until he had wasted all his fubftance, his vices forfaking him, and the weaknefs and infirmities of old age having alfo deprived him of his courage, he began to doubt whether VOL. I. he he might not have made a mistake, and determined to take a bond of Fate, by making a bargain with Heaven, (in cafe there should happen to be any power to call him to account) although the conditions might be hard; for this purpose he fent for a priest, a confeffor, who recommended to him the above humiliation of licking, with fome score of Avés and Paters by way of dou ceur; these he has duly paid Heaven every day for these ten years paft. He alfo has the misfortune to depend upon one of his fons for a flender fubfiftence, which is feafoned with reproaches and curses for his tedious existence in this world. This wretched old man has attained the great age of eighty-four, and may poffibly arrive at that of an hundred, for he does not look near fo old as he really is. I could not refift an impulfe to rally our Ciceroni (who had put on a face of edification) with hoping he might be entitled to a seat in an arbour in Paradise, if when he should become old, he carefully cleaned the marble fteps in the fame manner; but he replied, that any thing might be purchased at too dear a rate; and that no prieft, or any other perfon, fhould perfuade him to fubmit to fuch humiliation and mortification. I believe I have not mentioned the church of St. St. Luca Luca; it is painted by Piola (the father); the Church. manner refembles Pietro da Cortona and Rubens; but there are abfurdities in the drawing, and capital faults in the colouring. In one of the chaBenedetto pels is a picture by Benedetto di Caftilione; the di Cafti lione. heads heads are beautiful and highly finished; the drapery elegant and light, without being meagre; the animals and basket are natural, but the whole is too red. I think I have not omitted any church worth mentioning, though I am not infenfible to your want of patience on the subject; for I remember your fatigue at Paris two fucceffive mornings, that we went church-hunting, when at our return you had huddled together fuch a medley in your head of what we had feen, that I could scarcely prevail upon you to give your opinion upon any of them, or even repeat your vifit. Let others difpofe of their charities as they may, I do apprehend you will never build churches. However, as there are many more ftill to be feen in Italy, endeavour, if you can, to confider them rather in the light of collections of paintings, of fculpture, &c. Put priefts and monks, with their croaking of maffes, out of your head, and the feparating these ideas which you have (I suppose) connected clofely together, may enable you to read with lefs weariness, what you will frequently have accounts of from these regions of fuperftition and priestcraft. Palace. Agreeable to the order I propofed obferving in the beginning of this letter, I now proceed to give you fome account of the Doge's palace, or of Doge's the Seigneurie, as it is here called. It is vaft, but by no means beautiful. The first objects that are striking, after entering the court, are two marble ftatues placed upon the ftair-cafe, larger than the Francefchini. life; they represent the Dorias; are in Roman ANDREA DORIA QUOD REMPUBLICAM DIUTIUS Upon the pedestal of the fecond is engraved, JO. ANDRE DORIA PATRIÆ LIBERTATIS CON- S. C. P. Thefe ftatues are good blocks of marble, spoiled by the chiffel of an ignorant sculptor. The first great Salle is that of the council; it is painted in fresco, by Francefchini, and reprefents the battle of Pifa; The fcaling of the walls of Jerufalem by the Genoefe; The Moors drove out of Spain; and, A Doge granting freedom to a King of Arragon and his family. These paintings are very indifferent. In the middle of the cieling, the city of Genoa is represented in allegory, treading upon Fortune, &c. &c.; the perspective is tolerable, but the painting cold.-Seven statues of marble are placed in niches, which have been erected in honour of certain patriots and benefac tors of this city; but they are poorly executed.The fecond Salle is that of the little council, or where the privy-council is held. One end is elevated in the manner of a platform, or tribunal; |