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Gambetta, O&. 25th. TIERE are we to lie this night; the reason

I we cannot reach Asti, and much less Alefsandria, is, that this is the post-road (bụt it has been newly made, in order to avoid a steep mountain), and is extremely had at present; being one continued nough, like parts of Gloucestershire, for twenty miles together, which we have been ploughing through for five hours; so that we can. not get to Genoa until after to-morrow. Before we quitted Turin, we got an order from Count Tane for the cambiatura, which it seems can convey us no further than Alessandria; it is dear enough, though a third cheaper than the post; costs us by ordinance eleven Piedmontese livres for five miles; that is, nine livres for four horses, and a livre a piece for the postilions; but it is cus, tomary to give them something more. From Alessandria forward, the expence of posting is ten livres, and thirty sols a piece to the postilions for each post. I have not mentioned the courier's bidet, as that, as usual, is charged over and above, This has been a tiresome day's journey, affording no sort of entertainment. Good-night. Our inn is as wretched as the obscurity of the place bespeaks.

LET

LET TER XIII. - .

Novi, O&ober 26th. AFTER almost as dull a day's journey as n that of yesterday, we have safely reached Novi, and are still thirty-two miles from Genoa. We have been obliged to come by cross-roads, the great road being rendered impassable by the heavy falls of rain for some days past. From Gambetta to Alessandria we drove through a deep sand the whole way; bụt from this last place hither, the road has been tolerably good. As to the face of the country, I have nothing to say in its favour.

Alessandria is a large ftraggling town, and Alessanseems thinly inhabited. We passed by one house, dria. the architecture of which is in a very good taste. There is also a theatre, but not worth seeing; nor does this town afford any thing to gratify the curiosity of a traveller. It is situated on the river Tanaro. The country from thence to this place is thickly covered with vines (corn growing between), but they are not cultivated and dressed with the same care as in Burgundy, the Orleanois, and most parts of France. We crossed the river called Labor-mia in a bark, River La

bor-mia. or rather upon a raft; for it is not necessary to Bark. get out of the carriage. The postilions drive over planks, till they have got the carriage on the raft,

do

Novi.

do not give themselves the trouble to get off their horses, and when arrived at the other side, they drive out again in the same manner. I forgot to tell you, that we purchased at Turin a fourwheeled carriage, stout, and fit for our journey, with several conveniencies belonging to it, for travelling.

This town (Novi) is pretty considerable, the outsides of some of the houles, which have been painted, seem, by what remains, to have been tolerably executed. The inn is not very bad. Curtains to beds is a luxury unknown in this country, and our host afsures us we shall find none at Genoa. I in vain attempted to persuade him to nail up something by way of a curtain ; but, unfortunately, he had a respect for the bed which he destined us, that nothing could prevail upon him , to forego. A great coat of arms adorning the head-board, and which shewed it had belonged to some familia nobili, seemed to be the cause of his veneration. However, as soon as he had left the room, I endeavoured to turn the high and projecting parts, the coronets and supporters, to fome use; for the weather is very sharp, and there blows a cold wind. You would have laughed, had you fren my curtains, composed of neck. handkerchiefs and pelices. However, this con. trivance was better than no curtains. Adieu, till to-morrow evening, when I hope we shall have reached Genoa.

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L E T.

L ET TER XIV.

10

Genoa, October 27th,
W E are safely arrived, and lodged at the

V post house, the best inn at Genoa, and very near the famous church of the Annonciata. This day's journey has been fatiguing enough, although we got here by dinner time, and did not quit Novi till about nine o'clock. Our road has lain entirely amongst mountains. Most of them under close cultivation, particularly about Gavi, a Gavi. strong fortress of the Genoese, from whence there is a very fine prospect. The road lies under it, and the descent is extremely rapid; the town stands below the fortress. In the bottom appears a torrent, called Lemo; we passed through the village, now called Voltagio, which was the Voltagio. ancient capital of a people of Liguria, known formerly by the appellation of Veicuria. This place is twenty miles from Genoa, and fix from the Buchetta; namely, from the summit of the Appenine. The road over the Appenine and the descent is all paved. This great mountain affords nothing entertaining or beautiful. The pavement is exceedingly rough, in many places very rapid, and the appearance of the mountain on all fides dreary and bleak. Having palled the Bu...

chetta,

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Lampo. chetta, we came to a village, called Campomarone, marone.

from the great quantities of Spanish chesnuc-trees which abound here. It is situated eight miles from Genoa, and affords a tolerable inn, called Della Rosa. Here the houses are all covered with sate, and the tables made of the same material, called lavagna, of which there is a great quarry, about twenty-five miles distant from Genoa.

About three miles from Genoa you are obliged

to traverse a kind of valley, which is in reality the Polcever- bed of a river, called Polceverra. This bed is a

most disagreeable morsel to contend with; water finds its way here and there, and in many diffe. rent channels, which form narrow rivers, necel sary to be crossed frequently: there is no fixed road, the river changing its course continually; and when the waters are out, travellers are obliged to wait for three or four days, till they are fufficiently retired. The whole surface is covered unequally with loose stones and pebbles, and the jolts and shocks were so violent, that I expected the carriage or wheels to break. However, we got across fafely, and without the least accident. There are several vestiges of bridges, the arches standing, fome entire, others partly in ruins, where they have in vain endeavoured to make the road more convenient; but the violence and sudden swellings of this river, have rendered all their labour hitherto ineffectual. This valley is skirted on the right and left by many beautiful countryhouses, and terminated, as it were, at one end, by

a great

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