wretched habitations, on the cold and damp earth, have the unhappy foldiers (destined to take up their quarters here) endured the laft rude winter. Paffing by one of them, I looked in, from curiofity, to discover its contents, and do fuppofe it must have been the infirmary hovel; for I perceived several fick wretches ftretched out upon palliaffes,. who seemed ready to expire, and whom it had been more merciful to have fhot at once through the head, than thus facrifice them piece-meal to agues and dead palfies, for the Glory of Lewis the Beloved.

Our conductor, after relating to us the very great difficulties they had combated during the laft winter, in particular that the heavy fnows had prevented their receiving provifions from Savoy, and their Swifs neighbours had refufed to fell them any, added, that the garrifon of B. (from which they are a detachment) obliged them (the officers) to fubfcribe twelve livres a month each to the comedy at that garrison. This is fomething fo highly prepofterous, and at the fame time fo unjuft, that it is fcarcely credible.

The Lake in this part is very rough, and fre quently fo dangerous in winter, from the eddy winds caused by the furrounding mountains, that none of their little veffels could lie at anchor in fafety, if unprotected by walls, which form a regu lar port (I believe I forgot to tell you, that there is a very good port at Morges, though none at Geneva), in fhape a fquare of about two hundred.

yards.

yards. Three fides of this fquare are formed by a wall four feet thick and twenty feet high, built out into the Lake upon piles, with an entrance to let veffels in.

Having viewed this town and port in terrcrem, we took leave of our polite guide, wishing him a fpeedy order to return to Old France *. M prophefies this town will never be built; or, fuppofing it should be in part, never inhabited †. His reasons are," that it is fituated in the midst of implacable enemies, whofe interefts and inclinations it must ever be to diftrefs this new establishment. Nor can trade be carried on without a fund; and though that was afforded them, ftill the Genevans, by making the fmalleft accommodations for the veffels trading upon the Lake, would render utterly useless and unavailing all that the French may hereafter expend upon Verfoix and its port." What benefit then can they expect to refult from throwing away a great fum of money, and haraffing many more of their already too oppreffed military fubjects?

As we drew near to Geneva, the country became very cheerful, by offering to our view a great number of small houses and pretty gardens belonging to the citizens, who retire to them in the fummer when their bufinefs permits.-Our inn is very good,

*The troops now here are a detachment of about 300 from the Queen's regiment, and 200 of the Royal artillery.

†This prophefy has been fince fulfilled, as the undertaking was totally abandoned immediately upon the D. of Choiseul's disgrace.

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as well as our accommodations and provifions; and the people civil. I think civility in inn-keepers effential to the health of travellers; for how much are one's nerves and fpirits hurried, and one's blood heated, when, on arriving late perhaps at an inn in France, you are almost morally certain of receiving an infolent reply to any queftion, though the most reasonable, and neceffary, that a traveller can ask?

I think the trout of this Lake inferior to the common English trout. The victuals here are dreffed in the fashion of Geneva, or rather in the old English style, boiled and roasted, with puddings of various forts, codling-pies, &c. The Genevans and Swifs boaft a resemblance in their manner of living to the tables of England, but they are total strangers to the luxuries of our modern repafts.-As to what you have heard in regard to their eating cats, if there is any truth in that report, it is not at Geneva that animal is in vogue, but in the more remote and uncivilized parts of Switzerland.

Here I am interrupted by a great noife, proceeding from the jollity of fome young men of Geneva, who, Divine fervice being over, are come to pass their Sunday's evening in various amusements in the garden of our inn. Some play at nine-pins, others at vingt et une; others eat and drink in the arbours, and chaunt the old French pfalm-tunes to profane words, che sono un poco troppo allegro.-I imagined the Genevans had

been

been a grave plodding people; having formed that idea of them from thefe lines of Voltaire, which I had lately been reading:

Au pied d'un mont* que les temps ont pelé,
Sur le rivage ou roulant fa belle onde
Le Rhone échape à fa prifon profonde
Et court au loin par la fône appellé;
On voit briller la Cité Genvoife,
Noble cité, riche ||, fier, et fournoife;
On y calcule et jamais on n'y rit,
L'art de barême eft le feul qui fleurit +;
On hait le bal, on hait la comedie.
Du grand Rameau l'on ignore les airs
Pour tout plaifir Geneve pfalmodie
Du bon David les antique concerts,
Croyant que Dieu fe plait aux mauvais vers
Des predicants la morne et dure espece
Sur tous les fronts à gravé la trifteffe, &c.

We can form no judgment of the juftice or injuftice of thefe lines, knowing fo little of the peo ple they characterize.

* La Montagne de Salive, partie des Alpes.

Les feuls citoyens de Geneve ont quatre millions cinq cent mille livre de rente sur la France en divers efféts. Il n'y a point de ville en Europe qui dans fon territoire ait autant de jolies maifons de campagne proportion gardeé. Il y à cinquante fourneaux dans Geneve, ou l'on fond l'or et l'argent. On y pouffoit autrefois des argumens theologique.

† Auteur des Comptes Faits.

Ces vers font digne de la mufique on y chante les commandements de Dieu fur l'air reveilles vous belle endormit.

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As to the company below, the maid of the house eyes them with terror, calling them libertins, and mauvais fujets. She certainly means what we call Bucks, and of these, I think there must be a certain proportion to every town. At length la Jeunesse Genevois have taken their leave, for at a certain hour Geneva's gates are clofed, and impenetrable to any perfon whatfoever until the morning.

To my great difappointment, I am just now informed that the letters I expected to receive here from you are forwarded to Turin; travellers must learn patience.

A cold I have caught, adds to my chagrin, as it deprives me of going to Ferney, whither Mwent this morning, and from whence he is juft returned, highly fatisfied with his reception, for Voltaire was in a good humour: D'Alembert and the Marquis d'Argens were juft arrived by appointment to pass a few days together, the former from Paris, the latter from Berlin. You may imagine the converfation was not languid when kept up by fuch men. I have been teafing M― to relate to me every word they uttered; what he recollects of the converfation pleafes me fo much, that I wish him to commit it to paper for your amusement, and he has promifed me he will do fo the very first moment he can command. He fays, Ferney is a charming place, that Voltaire lives magnificently. -His niece, who is a very well bred agreeable woman, manages his houfhold affairs;-and that

*The feat of M de Voltaire, about three English miles diftant from Geneva.

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