ed. The front prefents a fine portico, above which, to a very great height, rifes a dome, crowned by a cupola; on each fide is a steeple, finished up to a point; the architecture of these steeples might have been better, they are too much starved. The entrance to the church is noble, and the infide very ftriking; it is quite round, and richly ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian order, of grey marble, four feet and an half each in diameter. The dome is fuftained by eight Corinthian pillars of the fame fort of marblet, partly ftraight, and partly twisted. There is also a range of fhort pillars to fupport a heavy aukward cornice. Certain red pillars in the dome have a bad effect; they appear as thrust against the windows (but can in no manner contribute to the fupport of the dome); but these were forced upon the architect by the late King, for they were not in the original plan. These pillars had been intended for a pa *The mountain was in fhape like a fugar-loaf, and the crown, or upmost top, reached as high as the pedestals of the pillars, now above the first gallery; the fummit of the mountain has been cut off, and fpread out at a very great expence, to form the level on which the church and convent are built, of the extent of about an acre and a half; more than 120 feet perpendicular height of rock and gravel mußt have been moved for this purpose. + Both Cochin and Lalande affert thefe pillars to be the colour of Turkey ftone, namely blue. I have no reason to think Lalande ever faw this church, but rather that he copies his account of it closely from Cochin. Cochin is alfo miftaken in faying, the dome is fupported by red marble pillars, which on the contrary are grey. vilion over the gateway of the entrance to the Royal palace in Turin, according to the defign given in a book entitled, La Theatre de Piedmont ; but Victor infifted upon Juvara's finding a place for them in the Superga. He also caused fome of them to be placed in the gallery at the Venerie which leads to the chapel. This royal obftinacy and folly has done an irreparable injury to a very noble structure. Over the great entrance, within fide, and facing the principal altar, is the following infcription, in uncommonly large gilt letters : VIRGINIS GENETRICE VICTORIUS AMADEUS SARDINIÆ REX ET PULSIS HOSTIBUS FECIT DEDICAVITQUE. On the infide of the church, within the great door of entrance, is a white marble flab, and under that a little vault, by the architect deftined for his own burying-place; but he died at Madrid, where he was fent for by the King of Spain, to plan a very great building, which, however, has not been carried into execution. There are many bas reliefs, which are much better executed than Cochin will own; the subjects of those best done are by no means flattering to the French. One of the most ftriking is that where the figures, as large as life, represent the battle before Turin; Marefchal Marfin dead, having a fhield grafped in his hand; the Prince of Anhalt on horseback, rushing through the French lines, fword in hand (he was the the firft that forced them); after him appears the Duke of Savoy, and a little behind, Prince Eugene. In the upper part is feen the Virgin Mary in the clouds, with the infant Jefus in her arms, and St. Amadeus in a fupplicating pofture, befeeching her interpofition and aid for the fuccefs of his countrymen *. There is merit in many of these figures, particularly in Amadeus, whofe expreffion and attitude is noble, characteristic, and ftriking. Here is a great profusion of fine marble, the walls being incrufted with it. Piedmont affords a prodigious variety; one fort, peculiar to this country, is remarkably beautiful; being veined in fhades of brown and yellow, like what is commonly called in England Egyptian pebble: this kind takes an exceeding high polish. Moft of the mouldings and fmall members of the architecture are of yellow marble, and come from Verona; the red fort from Perfigi. They told us the plan of this church was taken from that of St. Agnes at Rome. It has feven chapels, including the choir; at the end of which is the great or malter altar. There is another fmall chapel, the repofitory of a miraculous image of the Virgin, which * There are two other bas reliefs; one of which represents the birth of the Virgin: another is a blafphemous reprefentation of the Annunciation. I should only tire you, was I to recount all the miracles this poor old rotten log of an image has worked, nor how many years he had been neglected in a dark corner of a wretched little chapel, which formerly stood on the top of this mountain; 4 which is carried in proceffion round the church every year, the 8th day of September, followed by the King and all the Royal Family; that day being the anniversary of the raifing the fiege of Turin. In this chapel repofes the body of Victor Amadeus; immured above ground, until the magnificent vault which is preparing fhall be ready to receive him. On our arrival here we were met by fome of the Channoines, whofe convent is at the back of the church. We were received very politely, and invited in. I was furprised when I found I had the honour of being permitted to enter the bed-chamber of one of our kind hofts, who very obligingly conducted us thither himself, after he had fhewn us the church, &c. and there regaled us with fome very excellent coffee, which I affure you was a most comfortable thing on a very cold day, and in fo nipping and eager an air as that that pinches you on the top of this mountain. This priest's converfation was very agreeable, free from fuperftition, plainly fhewed he knew the world, and had received a liberal education. The apartments of the Channoines are comfortably furnished, without any pretence to fhow, but extremely neat and clean. The church is not yet nearly finished within fide, nor do I think it will mountain; nor how often she has removed certain ftones from one place to another, which had been brought on purpose to build her a church, &c. But as it was before this wonderful image that Amadeus made his vow, she is now gilt and painted, dressed in a fine gown of gold tiffue, and adored by all the devots at Turin. be be soon completed. I have not mentioned the dome nor cupola, the top of which I was de termined to attain. We mounted 317 fteps, not including the flight, which is confiderable, that leads up to the portico. All the rifers are not less than nine inches high. From the first gallery, the church below appears to great advantage. The whole of the staircase winds round a pillar, and is fo extremely narrow, that but one person can afcend it at a time: when you have gained the dome, the roof bends; it may be compared to the infide of an eggfhell, fuppofing a staircase practised between the yolk of the egg and the fhell. In short,there is, as it were, a double dome, the outward being a cafe to the inward; and it is between the two domes that you mount the staircase. Nothing can be mor difagreeable than the going up this stair-cafe; it is neceffary to bend the body, in conformity to the bending of the two roofs. At last you arrive at * Keysler makes a great mistake, vol. i. p. 250. where he fays, "Near the church is a large quadrangular ftructure, built for the conveniency of the Royal Family, when any of them were difpofed to retire for private devotion, and here the King has several times paffed fome weeks in Lent." : Now the truth is, that the walls of the above apartment are not roofed, nor are they yet carried up near high enough for that purpofe; nor has the late King, the prefent, or any of the Royal Family ever retired here for devotion, nor ever lay night in the convent, or come here at any time, excepting on the 8th of September, as I mentioned before. The building of the Superga has already coft four millions of Piedmontefe livres, and there is ftill much remaining to be done. There are niches and pedestals not yet occupied, for more than fixty ftatues. The cieling alfo over the great altar is not painted nor the organ gilt, &c. &c. |