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[ 7 English country ale-house. We fare well; and are charged only three livres a-head. To-morrow we hope to arrive at Geneva. We have been walking about the town in quest of something curious. Our kind hostess conducted us to the house of Monf. le Baillie, by way of shewing us the finest edifice in the town ;-a dreadful dismal. looking old mansion, painted all over black and

red.

I reft fatisfied that your friendship will make allowance for the inaccuracies of this letter, for the barrenness of the subject, and for the want of that amusement you may have expected to have received from the pen of your most affectionate, &c,

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LETTER 11.

Sept. 23, 1970. U E are now in Savoy, where we arrived

VV yesterday afternoon, about half a mile from Geneva. Having been informed on the road, that there was a better inn on the other side of Geneva than any in the town, we drove through without stopping. Another convenience arising from our not being in the town, is, that we are not subject to be detained here longer than just to take a cursory view of this famous city, wherein, had we been lodged, we might have experienced difficulties in so suddenly breaking from the society of several of our countrymen, which, though it might prove a most agreeable interruption to our journey, yet, as the lealon is far advanced for palsing Montcennis, we think it more prudent to lose as little time as possible on our way thither.

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All yesterday's journey was through a most beautiful country (till we came to Little France, or the Païs de Gex; of which district, so much talked of by our news-writers, I shall by and by attempt a description). From Morges to another decent town called Nyon, the road winds the whole way along the borders of the Lake; and on the other side, as far as the eye can reach, nothing ap. pears but a rich soil, all under tillage, and planted with extensive orchards of apples, pears, cherry,

and

Nyon.

mo

[9] and walnut-trees, growing at about the distance of fifteen yards from each other. Agriculture appears to be in a state of great perfection in this part of Switzerland. Here are considerable fields of buck wheat and lucerne, as well as of various other kinds of artificial grasses.

The Swiss have a contrivance for spreading an alarm on the appearance of the enemy, which has a pretty and an odd effect : this they do by beacons, Beacona. placed on the corresponding summits of their highest mountains. Each of these consists of nothing more than a very tall withered pine, stuck into the ground with a bundle of straw and faggots tied across, and appears, when viewed at a distance, like the belfry of a ruined hermitage. On the suspicion of an approaching enemy, they set fire to that beacon which happens to be the most conti- ? guous; the blaze is immediately perceived, and all the beacons in the country are instantly in flames. Thus the necessary alarm for warlike preparation spreads rapidly from canton to canton.

After an hour's drive on this side of Nyon, we entered the Païs de Gex ; separated only by a rivu- Pais de let from Switzerland. Scarcely had we passed its vex borders, when our ears were assaulted by the [queeling street voices of the Frenchwomen. The peasants of both sexes bear in their physiognomy incontestable proofs of their origin, though they have been transplanted hither many years since ; brown, meagre, ragged, half-starved wretches, prancing and grinning at one in their dirt, misery, and

sabots

Gex

fabots; their houses scarcely covered in, windows stuffed with rags.-Laziness, superstition, and defpotism, with their baleful claws, seem to have been the only cultivators of this wretched country: What a difference between this scene and the landfcape on the other side the stream! their habitations clean and commodious; themselves stout, fresh-complexioned, healthy, and decently dressed (no sabots); their beasts of burden large, strong, and well fed ; their implements of agriculture ingeniously constructed, and always employed; their churches neat, fimple, and well built, though perfectly plain. But how different must be the country where liberty, blended with each patriotic and focial virtue, springs up. fpontaneously in every bofom, to that where religion serves only as a mask to hide the hypocrisy of the wily priest; who, instead of inculcating the laws of morality, and encouraging industry, as Christianity teaches, when, ever it serves his interests, drags forth from his saintly cupboard his holy puppet-show, and unfurls the banners of his deceits * to his deluded flock who, beating their breasts, their eyes turned up in extatic stupidity, whilst their ears are filled with the swelling yell of these boly men, fancy that the heavens, propitious to such distortions, will bestow upon them immediate rain or sunshine, according to their wish I shall beg pardon for this digreffion, and return to the description of the Paix de

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* The standards, on which are painted fiiats of both fexes, © and which are barne in processions. .

Gex, which is about three quarters of a league in breadth, and three and a half in length, in shape like a tongue, stretching across the country down to the Lake.- The moment we entered it, we were attacked by a harpy, commonly called a Commis of a Bureau, who extorted more duties upon our baggage for three quarters of a league, than the like charges for twenty-eight leagues had amounted to in Switzerland. -Our Commis was succeeded by a woman between seventy and eighty years old, who pursued us, clattering her wooden shoes, and demanding a trilling toll. The first time I have seen rouge since I left France was on the shrivelled cheeks of this beldame.--As we were very curious to see the port of Versoix (the new town) we dispatched our courier to the commandant for his permission to that purpose, which was very obligingly granted, and he sent the commanding officer of the troops to be our guide. The commandant very politely excused himself from accompanying us, on account of illness, and being confined to his room. His name is

I re: he inhabits a poor cottage, just at the entrance of the bourg. We alighted then from our carriage, and walked about what is to be the town of Versoix, for there is not a house yet begun upon. The streets, squares, &c. are indeed distinguished by tall stakes fixed in the ground, and have all pompous names. Here are a few miserable hovels, or rather roofs of planks, which almost touch the ground, and appear at a distance like tents. In these

wretched

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