tained supremacy over the entire Peloponnesus. The jealousy of Sparta and Athens caused the Peloponnesian War, which lasted from 431 to 404, and ended in the defeat of Athens. This victory, however, was the cause of great evil to the Spartans, causing them to relax their rigid laws, and to introduce the luxuriant habits of the Athenians. From this time it began to decline. Sparta was taken by Alaric in the fourth century; in 1460 she fell into the hands of Mohammed II., and was destroyed by Malatesta in 1463. Modern Sparta is a very pretty village, containing several fine houses, a bazar, and a café. No ruins remain but a quadrangular monument called the Tomb of Leonidas, and the Theatre. The latter was not used for dramatic exhibitions, which were forbid den by the code of Lycurgus, but for gymnastic exercises and public assemblies. The central part of the edifice is cut in the hill, but the wings are artificial, and composed of quadrangular stones, uncemented. The seats have been taken away by the inhabitants of Mistra, to whom the building served for a quarry. Leondari is about eight hours and a half from Sparta, and is a town of picturesque appearance. Its old castle stands in ruins on a hill commanding the city. Continuing our route, we reach Andritsena in about ten hours. This is a pretty village, remarkable for its cleanliness and the air of comfort pervading it. From Andritsena we reach Olympia in seven hours and a half. This was not, in ancient times, a city, but a sacred wood consecrated to Jupiter, under the name of Altis. Here were celebrated, every four years, the Olympic games, when all hostilities were laid aside, and the most implacable enemies met on this neutral ground, peacefully to contest for a prize. The Olympic Games were first permanently established in 884; but the era of the Olympiads was first reckoned in 776 B.C., after the victory of Corobus. The only ruins now to be seen in Olympia are those of the temple of Jupiter. The fluted Doric columns are of enormous size. It was in this temple that stood the colossal statue of Jupiter Olympus, the chefd'œuvre of Phidias, made in gold and ivory, and counted one of the seven wonders of the world. Ancient Elis was situated on the banks of the Peneus, and occupied a mountain called Belvedere by the Venetians, now called Kaloskopi. About twelve hours brings us to Patras, already described. From Sparta to Mistra, Kalamata, Coron, Modon, Navarin, and Pylos. Mistra was founded in 1207, by William de Villehardouin, and rose to great importance. The city was almost entirely destroyed by the Turks during the War of Independence, and now presents nothing but a mass of ruined houses and churches, the population having almost entirely removed to Sparta. From the citadel, situated on the summit of a hill half an hour distant, a fine view may be obtained. Kalamata occupies the site of ancient Pheræ, often mentioned by Homer, and is at the present day the most important city of Messenia. It is situated about a mile from the sea, on the left bank of the Nedon, and carries on a considerable trade in oil, silk, and figs. Nine hours brings us to Coron, founded by Epaminondas. Of the ancient city there are few remains. Part of the ancient mole which protected the port may be seen, also the walls of the Acropolis, barely rising above the ground. Recent researches have brought to light two sarcophagi, both well preserved; on one is a fine bas-relief representing a series of combats against the Centaurs. Modon is reached in six hours. It is situated on a rocky promontory, which advances toward the island of Sapienza. A little island, surmounted by a tower, which is situated at the entrance of the port, communicates with the town by a bridge. The citadel and fortifications of Modon are important. In the centre of the public square, which dates from the Venetians, stands a column in Oriental granite, with a Byzantine capital, on which may still be distinguished a Latin inscription in honor of the Venetians and the Doge Morosini. Navarin was founded during the Middle Ages, and replaced the ancient Navarin or Pylos. It was taken by the Turks in 1500, and later by the Venetians, who retained it until 1715. It is principally celebrated for the great naval battle which occurred here in 1828, between the English, French, and Russian fleets on one side, and the Turkish fleet on the other. The latter was defeated with fearful loss. The citadel of Navarin is very strong, and was constructed by the French on the ruins of an old Venetian rect to Marseilles. Steamers also sail di castle. From Navarin an excursion may be made by boat to Pylos, or ancient Navarin. Pylos was situated on a lofty promontory surrounded by a wall built in the form of a triangle. The castle, situated on the summit of the hill, is all that now remains of the ancient city. Having made the tour of Greece and returned to Athens, you may take a steamer at Piræus to return. Several lines of steamers touch weekly at Piræus, the port of Athens, sailing for Messina. Austrian Lloyd, see advertisement. There you may change steamer for Naples, or proceed di rect to Brindisi, thence by rail to Turin, and through the Mont Cenis Tunnel to Genoa, where we commence our description of Switzerland: this would be the quickest route. Some may wish to pass into Switzerland via the Pass of St. Bernard, some the Simplon, and some the St. Gothard: all these different passes will be found on examining the Index. Probably many will wish to tarry in Italy, or return via Venice, Vienna, etc., or cross the Splugen Pass, and via Coire, Feldkirch, Bregenz, and Landau enter Bavaria, or by the Brenner Pass to Innspruck and Munich. 609 BAVARIA. Bavaria consists of two distinct divisions of territory, which cover an area of 29,628 square miles, and contains five millions of population. The larger division is bounded on the south and east by the German provinces of Austria; on the west by the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and the duchy of Baden; and on the north by the smaller German states. The smaller portion is to the westward of the Rhine, and bordering on the French frontier. It has a mean elevation of sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, is two hundred miles long, and one hundred and fifty wide. The greater portion of Bavaria is within the basin of the Danube, which crosses the country from west to east, and is watered by that river and its numerous affluents. The climate is in general temperate and salubrious. Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is situated on the left bank of the River Isar, nearly 1700 feet above the level of the sea. It contains 173,478 inhabitants, including a garrison of 4000 soldiers. Its hotels (and they are equal, if not superior, to any in Germany) are Bayerischer Hof (Bavarian Hotel), Zu den Vier Jahreszeiten (The Four Seasons), and Grand Hôtel National. The Bavarian is an immense establishment, situated on Promenaden Platz, one of the finest positions in the city. The rooms are all large, spacious, and cheap. American and English papers are kept in the reading-room; hot and cold baths in the house; servants speaking all languages. The Four Seasons is very finely situated in the Neu Maximilian Street, near the Place Max Joseph and the Theatre. This street is the fashionable promenade, and contains the finest houses in Munich, and perhaps in Germany. It was built at the express command of the King of Bavaria, and is now considered the first promenade in or around the city. This spacious hotel is entirely new, and furnished in the most fashionable style. The house has one pe Bavaria is particularly noted for the good quality of its beer, which is far superior to that of any other country; in fact, its flavor is entirely different; but you must drink it in Munich. The quantity drunk and brewed is incredible. Allowing twen-culiarity, and it would be well if all other ty-five million gallons to be exported every houses in Europe year, the quantity brewed would leave seventeen gallons per annum to every man, woman, and child in the kingdom. would adopt the plan, viz.: Your bill, in detail, is sent to your room every night; not that you should pay it every day, but every day you can The population of Bavaria does not in- remember what you ordered during the crease so rapidly as in other German prov-day, and can correct the error at once, inces, principally owing to the law regulating marriages, which says that "no marriage between people without capital shall be allowed without the permission of the poor institutions." If any of the superintendents of the poor, whose duty it is to keep a careful watch on persons wishing to evade this law, should be derelict in their duty, they are answerable for the maintenance of the families arising from the union, should they not be able to maintain themselves. The law is unquestionably a good one to prevent improvident unions, but on the score of morality it is questionable, as in Munich half the births are illegitimate. 610 should there be one, which you might not The |