strict in regard to the injunctions of the Prophet. The first ruins of any importance after passing Philæ are those of Dabod, on the right hand or west side of the river as you ascend. These consist of a well-preserved temple commenced by the Ethiopian King Ashat-Amun, and dedicated to the same gods as the temple of Philæ, and the picturesque ruin of the temple of Gertasse. We then pass the temples of Tafah, also on the right. We next arrive at Kalabshee, where are the ruins of the largest temple in Nubia, with the single exception of Aboo-Simbel. It was erected during the reign of Augustus; Caligula, Trajan, and Severus also added to it, but it was never completed. Seen from the outside, it has a grand and imposing appearance; the interior, however, is badly mutilated. Having passed the temples of Amada, Derr, and Ibreem, we arrive at the magnificent temples of Aboo-Simbel, the greatest work of the great Remeses, and by far the most interesting of all the ruins of Nubia, and, indeed, with the exception of Thebes, of all those throughout the Nile valley-for this reason, that almost every other Egyptian temple is more or less in ruins; these, from being hewn out of the rock, are in all their arrangements as perfect now as when they were left unfinished by Remeses himself. There are two temples: the smallest is dedicated to Hathor, who is represented under the form of a sacred cow; the façade is ornamented with six colossal statues of Remeses and his wife, with their children at their feet; the interior is divided into three principal divisions; the walls are decorated with sculpture, but much defaced; the entire depth is 84 feet. second and larger temple is a short distance south of the smaller; the façade is 120 feet wide by 90 high; it is decorated The A quarter of an hour's distance from the village is the cavern-temple of Bet-el-Wally (the house of the saints), excavated during the reign of Remeses the Great, and dedi- with four colossal statues of Remeses, cated to Kneph, Amunre, and Anauke. The sculptures of the interior, which are very fine, record the battles of Remeses against the Ethiopians. Next come the cavern-temples of Dendoor and Gorf, which are hardly worth a visit, and Wadi Sebua, formerly a temple of considerable importance, but nearly all now buried in the sand. The temple, which is entirely of granite, with the exception of the sanctuary, which is cut out of the solid rock, was constructed by Remeses II. There was formerly an avenue of sphinxes which led to it, hence its name. This is the last village where the Arabic language is spoken; the Nubian now commences. Twelve miles higher we arrive at Korosko, situated on the eastern bank of the Nile. This is the first station of the great Nubian desert, 200 miles to Kartum, and, although well traveled, is one of the worst roads across the desert, water being found at one station only during the entire distance, and much frequented by a wild tribe of Bedouins which have never yet been quite subdued. VOL. II.-K which, although seated, are about 60 feet high; the interior is divided into four compartments, with a depth of 185 feet; the entrance is nearly choked up with sand. Nearly opposite Aboo-Simbel, at Farayg, there is a small temple excavated during the reign of Amenophis III., and higher up the castle of Addeh, in a fine state of preservation. Nine miles farther there are also some ruins, at the village of Farras Forty miles above Aboo-Simbel is Wadi Halfa, opposite which are some ruins, but little of sufficient importance to bring travelers above Aboo-Simbel. The second cataract is still some seven or eight miles higher up; they are nearly five miles long, and, if wishing to see them and the surrounding country to the best advantage, we would advise the climbing of the cliff Aboo-Sir, 300 feet high, where a most singular panorama can be obtained. railroad along the banks of the Nile (in progress to Thebes) is now (1871) finished to Minich, a distance of 151 miles. 551 The SUEZ. [THE DESERT.] SUEZ. WHETHER the traveler intends visiting | good breeze blowing; it commences usuMount Sinai, where Moses delivered the ally from the land in the morning, and Law to the assembled tribes of Israel, or dies away about four or five o'clock in the not, we would strongly recommend his afternoon. spending a day or two at Suez, and then taking a boat through the new Suez Canal to Port Said (where the steamers to the Holy Land touch). The time from Cairo to Suez by camel was formerly 30 hours; then a direct railroad was constructed, making the time 4 hours; that road was abandoned in 1870, making a detour, but passing through numerous populous villages. From Cairo to Suez via Benha, 9 hours 30 minutes; 116 piastres $5 80. From Cairo to Suez via Zazazig, 10 hours; 116 piastres. From Cairo to Ismailia, 7 hours; 79 piastres = $2 75. Suez is situated at the head of the gulf of the same name; the Red Sea dividing at its northern extremity into the Gulf of Akaba and Suez. The peninsular region inclosed between these two gulfs is a rugged mountainous wilderness, and the scene of the journey of the hosts of Israel; and Suez, from the nature of the mountains on the Egyptian side, must have been the spot where they crossed. The town of Suez now contains about 6000 inhabitants; it has been brought into prominent notice of late years by the extensive travel on the overland route. The overland route is now all sea; the Suez Canal has also made it famous. It is likewise the place of embarkation for the Mohammedan pilgrims from Egypt and the countries of Northern Africa on their way to the holy cities. The sailing is excellent here, as you can always have a There are nearly always four or five large first-class English steamers lying here, but they can not come within five miles of the city, there being no channel, and the rise and fall of the tide so much that any traveler can do as the Israelites did at certain hours of the day without the water coming much over his boots. We asked our boatman if he knew any thing about the host of Pharaoh and the Israelites: "Yes, he knew all about it; it was all a mistake.” It was not the Egyptians who followed the Israelites, but a lot of rascally Bedouin Arabs;" that Moses knew all about the tide, and he arrived when it was low water; and when the Bedouins were in the gulf, the tide came up and drowned them; and to put the question beyond dispute and clinch his argument, "Wouldn't the boatmen have found the chariots when the tide went out?" 66 To visit the "Fountain of Moses (Ain Mousa), hire a boat instead of passing round the head of the gulf. You can run down with a fair wind, and land within two miles of the spot; walk up, and if you want a camel-ride, for twenty-five cents one of the fellahs who reside here on a small piece of land irrigated by the brackish water will supply you with the luxury. The sensation of a first camel-ride is very queer. The animal kneels down to enable you to mount, and when he commences to rise, it is with the greatest difficulty you retain your seat. The shore about here abounds with numerous handsome shells. Near Suez, a little to the north, were the remains of the sluices of the ancient Canal of Arsinoë, which connected the Nile with the Red Sea. It was commenced by Sesostris and finished by Ptolemy Philadelphus. Subsequent to the time of the Romans it was neglected, and allowed to fill up with sand. It was reopened by the Caliph Omar for the purpose of sending corn to the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. Its course is directly north as far as the Bitter Lakes, or Shekh Hanaydik, thence directly west to the Nile. One half its distance is the site of the new French canal, through which you proceed if going to the Holy Land. If returning to Europe direct, it will be better to retrace your steps to Alexandria via Benha, as you might have to wait some time at Port Said, a miserable place. Lately American travelers have commenced to make the tour to the Holy Land via Mount Sinai and Petra, a long and tedious trip, occupying 210 hours, or about 30 days of actual travelviz., from Suez to Sinai, 67 hours; from Sinai to Petra, via Akabah, 76 hours; from Petra to Hebron, 60 hours; and from Hebron to Jerusalem, 7 hours. "As guides, take a few Tor-Arabs, who will provide the camels; a contract must be made with them in Cairo. On no account be persuaded to go first to Suez and thence by water to Tor, otherwise you will be obliged to submit to extortionate demands or to turn back. The hire of a camel to Akaba averages 250 piasters. The Arabs have to find their own provisions and food for the camel. Never pay beforehand. Apply to a sheik, or leader, of good reputation, who can exercise authority over his race, for it sometimes happens that members of the same race are envious of him who has let his camel, begin quarreling on the road, and, under all kinds of pretenses, place the traveler's luggage on their own camels. Do not suffer yourself to be imposed upon if (it seldom occurs now) suddenly attacked by a troop of hostile Arabs and tribute. is demanded from you, and the Arabs who escort you do not fight, for the attacking party are in league with your own, and will afterward divide the booty with them. Therefore, have no recourse to arms, pay the sum demanded, and, on your return to Suez or Cairo, deduct it from the wages of these unfaithful people. "For the distance between Sinai and El Akaba an arrangement must be made with a sheik of the Mezejneh Arabs, and for that between El Akaba and Hebron with one of the Hawat chiefs, for safety's sake. On the 4th of January, 1857, some Americans who refused the £6, for six persons, demanded by the last mentioned, were fallen upon by them, and escaped with their lives Ly at length sacrificing £100. tract of desert which is looked upon as the property of another, unless there be a mutual understanding between them. Waterskins should be procured at Cairo; old ones are preferable, as the new impart an unpleasant taste to the water. The best tents are those with a single pole, likewise to be had there. A double number of pegs, warm coverings, and a water-proof undercover, to resist the damp rising from the earth, is indispensable; wax candles, lamps, dried apricots, maccaroni, and rice. Charcoal is only wanted during the first half of the journey, afterward abundance of material for burning is found in the valleys. It is advisable to take more coffee and tobacco than is sufficient for one's own personal use, in order occasionally to fill the cups and the pipes of the escort; the waterskins must never lie on the earth, which often contains salt, but must always be put in the shebbekeh-nets in which the camels carry their burden. "The tour from Cairo to the monastery of Sinai is through Suez, Ain Moosa, Wadi Sadr, Ain Howarah, Wadi Gurundel, Wadi Shabejkeh, Sarabut el Kadem, Wadi el Berk, Wadi e'Shech, and Wadi Solaf, and is 95 camel miles long. "The tour beyond the monastery to El Akaba is over Wadi el Orfan, Wadi Murnah, Ain el Hudera, Wadi el Sumghi, Ain Suwejbia, Ain el Wasit, Aboo Suwejrah, Wadi el Mekubbeleh, Wadi Merak and the N.W. corner of the gulf, and is 51 camel miles in length. From El Akabah to Petra, now Wadi Moosa, an armed escort is absolutely necessary. From El Akabah to Hebron it is 72 camel miles; to Jerusalem, 80. There is less expense incurred, if not less danger to be apprehended, if, in visiting the ruins of Petra, the tourist set out from Syria, and, indeed, from Hebron. "The quail, which supplied the Israelites with food during their progress through the deserts, is still found, but never in flights. Manna is also rare; it is seen in sparkling drops on the branches and twigs (not on the leaves) of the turfa, a kind of tamarisktree, from which it oozes out as a consequence of the sting of an insect of the coccos species. It is white, sweet, about the size of a small pea, and melts in the sun. It is to be had of all druggists in Cairo. Ain Howarah is the Marah of the Bible: it From hera "Never travel with one race through a has springs of brackish water. the road runs at a short distance from, and almost parallel with, the sea, to the 'baths of Pharaoh' (Hammam Faraoon) a mountain with hot springs, 157° Fahrenheit, strongly impregnated with salt and sulphur. Not far from here the road takes a turn more inward, dividing into two, the one of which leads to the left over Sarabut el Kadem, the other to the right over Wadi Faran, but both to Sinai. "The road to the left passes, near Sarabut el Kadem, an old copper foundery, where are various Sinaitic inscriptions. Sarabut el Kadem is a sandstone rock with a level summit, on which are discovered numerous ruins and many hieroglyphic tablets, with the names of Osirtasen I., Ramses the Great, Thotmes III., and others of the Pharaohs. "Those Sinaitic inscriptions are still more frequently found on the other road, to the right. The rocks on the S. side of Gebel el Mokattab are more especially covered with them. They are also on other parts of the peninsula, and not only on the old pilgrim roads, but may be followed into the most desolate ravines. Rude signs, a foot high, with rough drawings of camels and goats between them, appear slightly cut in, and only to be recognized by their light color on the dark stone; they are not explained, but probably refer to the Amalekite pilgrims, who came to the beautiful vale of Faran and the holy mountain of Serbal. The first is the largest cultivated vale of the peninsula, is watered by a brook, which soon sinks into the sand, and contains many gardens with palms and other trees. On Serbal, a majestic giant mountain with five peaks, are likewise many of these inscriptions. "After passing through long ravines we reach the plains of Er Raha, surrounded by rugged walls; thence, to the south, run two narrow, deep valleys, which, after a time, unite and form a large plain called Sebaieh. The mountain they surround and separate from the higher neighboring summit is Horeb; its S. higher summit, beyond the larger plain, is Sinai. The Arabs call the two Gebel Moosa-the mount of Moses. Beneath, in the valley on the E. side, is the monastery, a fortress-looking building, with high walls, which from the inside are only overtopped by a few cypresses. It has no door, so that he who wishes to go in must be wound up the open hatchway by a rope until he reaches a height of 30 feet. Inside are covered courts of different sizes, partly covered by vines; the very old church, in which is a chapel said to be the place where God spoke to Moses from the burning bush. The church is a basilica, has a double row of Corinthian pillars, a splendid altar balustrade, a mosaic-work picture of the crucifixion, a portrait of its founder, the Emperor Justinian, many silver lamps and candlesticks, a coffin with the remains of St. Catharine (found, as tradition says, in the neighborhood), the silver lid of a sarcophagus with the likeness of the Empress Anne of Russia, who desired to be buried here, etc. This monastery is inclosed by gardens, with high walls, in which are pear, apple, apricot, and pomegranate trees, and in the adjacent valleys the monks still have olive groves. "The monastery is ruled by a superior, has generally twenty monks, and belongs to the Greek Church. Mohammed, it is said in a record now at Constantinople, on condition that those monks feed the passing pilgrims, recommended them to the good-will of his followers. "A short distance from here is the stone out of which Moses caused water to flow, and on the summit of Sinai the cleft of the rock is shown in which he concealed himself when the glory of the Lord passed over him. The view from the mount is of morc importance to us than these doubtful relics. "A steep path, with occasional steps, and entering two arches of a door-way, leads from the monastery to a high plain behind the mountain, where are a well, a chapel consecrated to Elias, and a single cypress. From this plateau, which, toward the N., is overtopped by rugged cliffs, and falls nearly perpendicularly into the plain of Er Rahab, is a roundish rock, still over 100 feet in height. It is an enormous granite block, with the vestiges of a Christian church and a mosque. From this height, nearly 7000 feet above the level of the sea, we view the fearful, wild, brown and black mountains, and the yellow sandy plains of the desert in the north, the surface of the sea toward Akaba and Suez, and the Egyptian chain of mountains emerging from behind it, and, next, the gloomy, jagged Catharine Mountain to the S.W. Toward the S. termination of the peninsula the blue sea appears again. Beneath us, near the foot of the mountain, is the plain of Sebaieh, somewhat in the form of a theatre, where once the law was given to the Israelites. "The whole tract from Sinai to Petra has nothing of interest but Akaba, a fortress with an Egyptian garrison, serving as a magazine for the caravans from Mecca, which stands on the swamps near the Elanite Gulf, which is so dangerous that no ships enter it. Here it is supposed, near the so-called Pharaoh's island on the W. coast, near the N. end of the gulf—was the harbor of Eziongeber, whence Solomon sent ships to Ophir. 66 Petra, one of the most splendid ruins of any city in the Levant, lies in a hollow below the mountain of Hor, a brook running down to it. Guided by 'Braun's History of Art,' we follow this way through high oleander hedges, and descry, firstly, on the right, monuments in the shape of masses of stone separated from the rock; then, on the left, a plain façade, crowned by a row of four pyramids of an obelisk character. We proceed farther into the cleft, which becomes more and more narrow, and at length see an arch of a great gate, of the Roman style, which spans it. This is succeeded by niches, tablets with inscriptions, which have suffered from the atmosphere, and tombs on each side. The walls of the glen reach to such a height that the sun can scarcely penetrate. Ivy hangs down from the ridges, and fig-trees spread their branches over it. At length it is light, the glen expands, and the rosy façade of a high, magnific building hewn in the opposite rock appears, called by the people El Kasneh Faraoon, i. e., the treasury of Pharaoh. This is evidently a monument in the Roman style. We discover a two-storied temple façade, standing in a niche above 100 feet high. The rock wall is gray, the sculpture in the niche pink. In the lower part are six Corinthian columns; the four middle ones support a rich frontal, from beneath which the fore-hall opens, occupying the same breadth, only that the two centre ones are free where there is a space behind them; one of them is broken. Over the frontal of this lower story is another, likewise overspanned by a frontal, but in its whole breadth; this, however, is not complete, being cut out in the centre, so that on either side a corner of the frontal rests on two pillars. In the centre is an open space, the walls of which are also graced with columns. In this open niche, above the frontal of the lower story, is a dome with pillars, on which is an urn, believed by the people to contain great treasThe whole is a sepulchre. Passing through a fine vestibule we enter the interior, which behind and at each side contains three smaller rock chambers, plain and insignificant, and much lower than the great hall, an arrangement calling to mind the tombs of the Persian kings. ures. "The cavern, now broader, extends to the right, between numerous rock chambers and façades, as far as the theatre, likewise hewn out of the rock, from the uppermost steps of which we look down into another deep vale. Here stood the old town. We find here immense heaps of fragments and ruins, standing remains of temples, ruins of triumphal arches, and palaces, all after the Roman style. Around are jagged mountain heights, and in the E. and W. rock-walls several hundred feet high, and from the tops to the bases broken entrances to tombs are discerned. "The grandest monument of the old city stands at a short distance N. of Petra, and is called El Dair. Like that of El Kasneh Faraoon, it contains two stories faced with pillars, but is much higher and broader; in the lower part there is neither an open fore-hall nor frontal, but only a frame-work between and over the pillars, which seems alternately to recede and protrude, and curves toward the centre. Above this again is the dome with pillars, over which is the urn, which has broken through the frontal of the upper story, leaving the corners only supported by pillars. On all three compartments are Doric triglyphic cornices-perpendicular articulation alternating with round shields-a very old Asiatic form. It is altogether unfinished; the capitals of both stories are but rude blocks. Inside is an altar niche, with a cross on the hinder wall; it is therefore presumed at a later period to have been a church. On a rock opposite traces are perceptible of a very large temple, which stood about 1000 feet above the lower level of the valley. "The people that inhabited this city were probably Nabatians who had emigrated from S. Babylon, a peaceful trading people, |