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In 1516 this entire kingdom passed into the hands of Charles V. of Germany, the heir of all the Spanish dominions. Notwithstanding his confirmation of the previous declaration of his predecessors concerning the perpetual junction of Malta with Sicily, this emperor, for political reasons, resolved to cede the island to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, the remains of which were at that time at Viterbo, in the Papal States. The act of the donation is dated at Castel Franco, near Boulogne, March 23, 1530; and the document of the acceptance of the gift, by the council of the Order, April 25 of the same year. The substance of the act was as follows:

That the Emperor Charles V., king of Sicily, gave to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, in his name and in that of his successors, the islands of Malta, Gozzo, and Comino, with Tripoli in Africa, as a free and noble fief, with all the privileges of the sovereignty, under these conditions: 1. That every year the Order should present a falcon to the King or Viceroy of Sicily. 2. That the bishopric of Malta should always be nominated by the king. 3. That the chief admiral of the fleet should always be an Italian. 4. That they should preserve to the Maltese all their rights and privileges. The Grand Master, having accepted these conditions, embarked to take possession of the island, where he arrived on the 26th of October, 1530, accompanied by a great many knights and principal officers of the Order.

During the reign of John de la Valette, founder of the city called by his name, Malta was destined to undergo its severest attack from the hands of the Turks. It was besieged by a powerful armament for four months, but without success, De Valette having succeeded in repelling all their attacks, and compelling them, in the end, to retreat with vast loss. The Order maintained possession of the island for the space of 268 years. About the year 1730 it suffered serious losses by the extinction of many of its commanders in Germany, Spain, Sicily, Portugal, and Aragon; and in 1792 an edict of France was issued, declaring the Order extinct within the French territories, and its possessions were annexed to the national domains. To show the dilapidated state of the revenue, it need only be mentioned that the receipts, which

in 1788 were three millions of livres, were in 1797 reduced to one million.

The French government, which had for some time manifested a spirit of hostility to the Order, now came forward to display it openly. The first division of the French fleet arrived before the port of Malta on the 6th of June, 1798. On the 9th, General Bonaparte, with the remainder of the squadron, stood off the island, and, through his consul, Carson, demanded free admission for the whole fleet. This demand being refused, the same day the French began to disembark at the Bay of St. Maddalena, and carried the small fort of St. George without the loss of a single life. The next day the French army had secured all the important posts in the country, and had advanced beneath the walls of the city, when the greatest uproar prevailed among the people on account of the treachery that had been discovered among several knights of the Order. Six days after the landing a council was called, and it was resolved to yield up the city into the hands of the besiegers. No sooner did the French find themselves the uncon trolled masters of the island than they enjoined all the knights to quit within three days. About $50 were advanced to each for the expenses of his journey; but he was not permitted to depart until he had torn the cross from his breast and mounted the tri-colored cockade. By the articles of capitulation, the French engaged to pay the Grand Master an annual pension of 300,000 livres, and to each French knight resident in Malta a yearly allowance of 700 livres.

The French fleet, under the command of General Bonaparte, sailed from Malta in June, carrying with them all the rarities found in the public treasury, together with all the standards and trophies belonging to the Order, none of which ever reached their destination. They were contained in two ships, the Orient and Sensible-the former was blown up in the battle of Aboukir, and the latter fell into the hands of the British. The French soldiery committed so many depredations throughout the island, suspending the pensions to charitable institutions, and despoiling the churches, that the population became furious, and, when an attempt was made to sell the decorations of the cathedral

church of Città Notabile, sixty soldiers, with their commander, were massacred by the people. From this time all communications between the city and country. ceased, and Valette was reduced to a state of blockade.

About this time it was blockaded by the English and Portuguese fleets. The Portuguese admiral was left alone to maintain the blockade during the temporary absence of the English squadron; on the return of which a fresh summons was sent for the place to surrender. Early in December the same was repeated, which was firmly and laconically answered in the negative. The blockade had now lasted six months, and the city exhibited a scene of frightful privation. The besiegers would not permit any person to leave the town, knowing that their doing so would relieve the garrison. Disease added its ravages to the general suffering, and soldiers and citizens became alike its victims. Month after month passed heavily over, and in August, 1800, the citizens being totally beggared, the army was put on half pay. Four months afterward it was entirely stopped, and their rations greatly lessened. Still they bore all with astonishing fortitude, being supported with the hope of speedy deliverance. At length the news of the interception of the supplies, and their capture by the English, disheartened many, though it did not decide them to capitulate. The condition of the town was dreadful beyond description. Fresh pork brought two dollars a pound; rats sold at an exorbitant price; dogs and cats were generally eaten, and horses, asses, and mules were similarly converted into food. On the 8th of September, 1800, a parley was held with the besiegers, when the terms of capitulation were arranged and ratified. The following morning the French sailed away, after having endured an obstinate blockade for two years.

In the year 1814, agreeable to the resolution of the Congress of Vienna, the islands of Malta, Comino, and Gozzo, were confirmed to the English crown, and they have ever since been considered by all the powers of Europe as a British dependency. Valetta. The streets of Valetta, the principal city of Malta, are regular and well paved, but, from the declivity on which some part of the city is built, many

of them are steep, with side-walks composed of stairs. They are kept remarkably clean, being swept every morning. The houses, which are built of stone, and are generally of three stories, have all flatroofed terraces, which serves the double purpose of being an agreeable resort for a walk, and a receptacle for the rain which falls during the winter, from whence it runs into the cistern with which every dwelling is provided.

The principal hotels are the Imperial Hotel and Morrell's Hotel. Prices high.

Valetta is built upon a tongue of land extending into a bay, forming two splendid harbors; one called the Great Harbor, the other the Quarantine Harbor. The former is used for government vessels alone, the latter for foreign vessels, and those in quarantine. The city is closed by three gates: Porta Reale, which leads to the country; Porta Marsamuscetto, which leads to the Quarantine Harbor, and through which all strangers enter the city; and the Marina Gate, from the Great Harbor.

The fortifications which surround the town are very high, and many of them formed out of the solid rock. The walls measure about 15 feet wide, and are composed chiefly of the common limestone of the country; their whole circumference is two miles and a half. The ditch which crosses the peninsula from the Quarantine to the Great Harbor, cutting off all communication with the city, is about 1000 feet long, 120 deep, and 120 wide; this is crossed by five bridges. Beyond the counterscarp are many outworks and a glacis built in the same massive style, and well supplied with cannon, rendering the city one of the best fortified in the world.

During the existence of the Order, the knights of each language had a particular post assigned to them in case of attack. The knights of Provence had a rampart of St. John; those of France, St. James; those of Auvergne, St. Michael; those of Italy, St. Peter; those of Aragon, St. Andrew; those of England, St. Lazarus; those of Germany, St. Sebastian; and those of Castile, Santa Barbara. There was also a palace or inn for each of these languages, where all the members ate and assembled together for the purpose of consultation and the transaction of business such as preferred residing in their respective inns

to having private houses of their own were permitted to do so. The Superior of every language was dignified with a distinctive title, to which were annexed certain functions; for instance:

Auberge de Provence.-The Superior of the auberge was denominated the Grand Commander, who, by virtue of his office, was perpetual president of the common treasury, comptroller of the accounts, superintendent of stores, governor of the arsenal, and master of the ordinance; he had the nomination (subject to the approbation of the Grand Master and council) of all officers from the different languages, and to this he added the power of appointing persons to the various places of trust in the church of St. John, and in the Infirmary. This auberge is situated in the Strada Reale; it is a fine building, with a plain but imposing façade. Besides the chapel which this language owned in the church of St. John, it possessed another separate church, as did also several of the other languages.

Auberge d'Auvergne.—The head of this inn was called the Grand Marshal; and he had the military command over all the Order, excepting the Grand Crosses or their lieutenants, the chaplains, and other persons of the Grand Master's household. He intrusted the standard of the Order to that knight whom he judged most worthy such distinction. He had the right of appointing the principal equerry, and, when at sea, not only commanded the general of the galleys, but the Grand Admiral himself. This auberge occupies a site opposite the side-square of St. John's church in the Strada Reale.

The Auberge of Italy.-The Superior of this language was styled the Admiral. In the Grand Marshal's absence he had the command of the soldiery equally with the seamen. He also appointed the comptroller and secretary of the arsenal; and when he demanded to be named to the generalship of the galleys, the Grand Master was obliged to propose him to the council, which was at liberty to appoint or reject him at pleasure. This auberge is situated in Strada Mercanti, opposite to the Auberge de Castile. Over the entrance is a bronze bust of the Grand Master Canafa, with his coat of arms, and many trophies and ornaments of white marble, said to

have been cut from a large pillar which once stood in the Temple of Proserpine, in the Città Notabile. The small church of Sta. Catarina, which adjoins it, also belonged to this language.

Auberge Castile.-The chief of this inn was dignified with the title of Grand Chancellor. It belonged to his office always to present the vice chancellor to the council, and his presence was likewise necessary whenever any "bulls" were stamped with the great seal. Those who assumed this dignity were obliged to know how to read and write. This is the largest auberge in the city, and occupies a very delightful situation close under the walls of the ditch, commanding an extensive view of the country beyond. It is surmounted with a great display of ornamental sculpture, consisting chiefly of warlike trophies, arms, musical instruments, etc. In the centre is a marble bust of Grand Master Pinto. It is at present occupied by the officers of the English garrison. To the knights of this language appertained the church of St. James, in Strada Mercanti, a neat specimen of architecture, ornamented in a very chaste and simple style.

Auberge de France.-The Superior of this inn, during the existence of the Order, was called the Grand Hospitaller. He had the direction of the hospital, and appointed the overseer and prior to the infirmary, and also ten writers to the council. The officers who filled these employments were changed every two years. The Auberge de France is situated in Strada Mezzodi.

Auberge of Aragon. The title of the Superior of this inn was the Draper, or Grand Conservator. He was charged with every thing relating to the conservatoryto the clothing and the purchase of all necessary articles, not only for the troops, but also for the hospitals. This building occupies a small square fronting on Strada Vescova, and is now the residence of the Lord Bishop of Gibraltar.

Auberge of England and Anglo-Bavaria. The head of this establishment was dignified with the title of the Tancopolier. He had the command over the cavalry and the guards stationed along the coast. While the "language" of England existed, their inn was the building which fronts the square before the small church of Sta.

The

Catarina of the Italians on the one side, | Order on a red field. The armor of the and Strada Reale on the other. After the mounted cavaliers and men-at-arms is of Reformation, when all the English com- different kinds; some burnished, and othmanderies were confiscated by order of ers painted black and varnished. Henry VIII., this language ceded up its complete suits of armor are placed upright rights, and was succeeded by the Anglo- on stands, and posted up along the rows of Bavarian, whose inn stands on the plat- muskets at certain distances from each form of St. Lazarus, facing the entrance other, looking like so many sentinels, and into the Quarantine Harbor. This build- giving a very sombre appearance to the A trial was once made of ing is now occupied by officers of the Brit- whole room. ish garrison. the force of resistance of one of these suits, and several musket-balls were discharged against it at 60 yards' distance, which only produced a very shallow concavity. This piece of armor may be seen with the rest.

PALACE OF THE GRAND MASTER.

This vast building, the residence of the Grand Masters of the Order, is surrounded by the four principal streets. It is 300 feet on each side, and has a spacious square in front, called Piazza St. Giorgio. It has two principal entrances, two court-yards, with fountains; one of them is now used as a racket-court for the amusement of the officers of the garrison.

The interior of the palace consists of a lower and upper story, each containing a range of apartments running round the building. The halls and apartments in the upper story are very elegant, many of them embellished with views commemorative of the battles of the Order. Some of the paintings are of superior workmanship. Among the several masters whose genius adorns these walls are Caravaggio d'Arpino and Cavalier Fauray. In the waiting-room are some fine productions by Maltese artists. The principal pieces are St. George and the Dragon, St. Michael, St. Peter, Mary Magdalene, and Æneas. Most of the ancient paintings were placed here by the Grand Master Zandadari, and are chiefly scriptural illustrations.

At one end of the room is a complete suit of black armor, standing about seven feet high and three and a half wide. It is not very probable that this has been often used. The helmet alone weighs 37 pounds. Close by the above is an open case, in which may be seen many curious specimens of musketry, pistols, swords, daggers, etc., chiefly trophies taken by the knights in their engagements with the Turks. The sword of the famous Algerine general Dragut is preserved among the spoils. Before this case is a cannon made of tarred rope bound round a thin lining of copper, and covered on the outside with a coat of plaster painted black. This curious specimen of ancient warfare was taken from the Turks during one of their attacks upon the city of Rhodes. It is about five feet long and three inches bore. At the other extremity of the room is the complete armor of the Grand Master Alofio Wignacourt, beautifully enchased with gold; above which is a drawing of the same, armed cap-a-pie, a copy from the masterpiece of the famous Caravaggio which is in the dining-room.

On the most elevated part of the palace is the Torretta, a small quadrangular tower, from whence vessels of war are signal

The most interesting sight in the building is the Armory. It occupies a large saloon extending the whole length of the building, and contains the armor and a great many warlike weapons belonging to the Knights of Malta, with numerous tro-ized. phies of their splendid victories. It also contains 20,000 muskets, 1000 pistols, 30,000 boarding-pikes, belonging to the garri

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In the lower part of this building were formerly preserved the treasures of the Order, among which was the sword, shield, and golden belt of Philip II., king of Spain, sent by him as a present to the Grand Master La Valette. There are several other apartments in the palace well worth examination.

The Church of St. John.-This edifice holds the first rank among the sights of Malta, and should you have but time to

visit one place in Malta, let this be the | The second arch covers the chapel of the one. It was built nearly three centuries Portuguese knights; the walls are ornaago, at the time La Cassiera was Grand Master, and was subsequently enriched by donations of the Grand Master who succeeded him, and also by several sovereigns of Europe. The façade of the church is heavy and monotonous, but the interior is magnificent. The choir is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculpture in white marble on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. This piece was from a design by the famous Maltese artist Caffà, and completed after his death by Bornini.

The grand altar, which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous, and deserves notice on account of the various colored marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. Before it, on either side, on a raised pavement, stands a chair covered with a rich canopy of crimson velvet; that to the left is occupied by the bishop, and the one on the right is destined for the sovereign of the island, over which is placed the escutcheon of Great Britain. Close by the latter is a seat prepared for the governor of the island. The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs, worked in mosaic with various colored marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights and other servants of the Order, and bear each an appropriate epitaph, or rather a panegyric on the virtues of the deceased. Many have had their escutcheons set in beautiful mosaic, looking as bright as if laid down but yesterday. The chapels of the different languages of the Order which run parallel with the nave form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated; the roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are very profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo.

The first arch on the right hand as you enter the church leads to the chapel of the Crucifixion, in which are several very fine paintings, especially the one behind the altar, the Beheading of St. John, by Michael Angelo Caravaggio. From this chapel a flight of stairs leads to a subterraneous apartment, in which stands a rustic chapel.

mented with paintings. It contains two splendid mausoleums of grand mastersthat of Emanuel Pinto and Manoel de Vilhena: the latter is of bronze, very costly, sustained by two lions of the same material. The fourth arch leads into the chapel of the Spanish knights. Over the altar is a painting of St. George; those on the side walls represent the trial and martyrdom of St. Lawrence. In this chapel are four magnificent mausoleums of grand masters: Martin de Redin, Raphael de Cotoner, Perillos E. Roccaful, and Nicolas Cotoner: the two last are very grand. The fifth arch leads to the chapel of the knights of Provence. This contains a plain black mausoleum of the Grand Master Gorsan. The paintings above the altar represent St. Sebastian. The sixth and uppermost arch leads to the chapel of the Virgin. On the side-walls are three silver plates, with a bundle of keys suspended from each. These were trophies taken from the Turks.

To the left hand, on entering the church, is a splendid copper mausoleum of the Grand Master Zondadari. The whole is supported by a marble base, and flanked with two fine pillars of the same material. The metal statue of the knight, as large as life, in a reclining posture, and the various ornaments which surround it, are very grand. It is considered a splendid production of art.

The first arch down the aisle, on the left, leads to the vestry, in which are several paintings and portraits of grand masters. The second chapel is that of the knights of Austria. The altar-piece represents the Adoration of the Wise Men, and on the side-walls the Murder of the Innocents and the Birth of Christ. The fourth chapei is that of the Italian knights. It contains the mausoleum of the Grand Master Carafa. The altar-piece is the Espousals of St. Catharine. There are two drawings by Caravaggio, Jerome and Mary Magdalene. The next chapel is that of the knights of France. In this chapel there are two monuments of grand masters.

That of Prince Ludovico Philip d'Orleans, who was interred here, is very fine.

Over the altar is a fine picture, the Conversion of St. Paul; on the side-walls, the Holy Family and St. John in the Des

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