tius Cocles, and the first built across the | Rome. The first visit of most travelers will be to the FORUM ROMANUM and the adjacent ruins, and certainly in the few acres which lie between the Capitol and the Colosseum is gathered the most marvelous collection of the remains of antiquity to be found in the world. From the Cloaca Maxima and the Mamertine Prison, the work of the early kings, built nearly twenty-five centuries ago, down to the Basilica of Constantine, we have an almost complete series of the building of all epochs, the Forum itself, lying in the valley between the Palatine and Capitoline hills, being the nucleus, as if Rome grouped all her most glorious works around the cradle of her power, the place of popular assemblies. Opposite this, passing under a garden arch, is the path to the CLOACA MAXIMA (a man is generally in attendance to show them). Following the same street we arrive at the Piazza della Bocca di Verita, in which stands the beautiful TEMPLE OF VESTA, a circular building of the best times of Roman architecture, and in nearly perfect preservation. In the portico of S. M. in Cosmedin, opposite (formerly the TEMPLE OF CERES AND PROSERPINE), is the famous mask, in which it is fabled that accusations were put, or, according to others, into which the hand of persons taking an oath was put, with a belief that it would be crushed if forsworn: it has evidently been part of a fountain. Near the Ponte Rotto, between it and the Temple of Vesta, is the TEMPLE OF FORTUNA VIRILIS, the oldest in Rome, built by Ancus Martius B.C. 620 or 30, and the house of Rienzi. The excavations now being carried on by order of Napoleon III. on the Palatine are most interesting: they are open every Thursday. On Entering the Forum from the Via Bonella, we have the CAPITOL above us at the right; at the foot of its wall the remains of the TEMPLE OF CONCORD, the three As the different parts of the ruins are columns of the Temple of Vespasian, the marked by sign-boards and quotations of colonnade of the TEMPLE OF SATURN; and the authorities on which they are identiin front the ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS, fied, we need not here describe them. with other remains; at the left the solitary the opposite side of the Palatine, however, COLUMN OF PHOCAS, the VIA SACRA be- is an entrance to that part of the ruins yond, then the substruction of the BASILI- which are not included in the French exCA JULIA; farther to the left the three col- cavations, and this is accessible at all times umns of the GRÆCOSTASIS mark the era by paying a small fee (1 paul is the usual of the Forum proper; at the left of this as fee in all such cases) to the woman who you face the COLOSSEUM, which looms up opens the gate. The principal part of the in the distance, is the TEMPLE OF ANTO- ruins of this side is what is called the NINUS and FAUSTINA; at the right the HOUSE OF AUGUSTUs, the largest mass on huge ruins of the PALACE OF THE CESARS. the Palatine. From the terrace above this Along the sides of the Forum were the ta- we have a fine view of the Campagna and bernæ, or shops, of which the taberna vete- southern and southwestern environs of res, or old shops, were on the southwest Rome, commencing on the right with the side, the new on the northeast. At one of Aventine, then, going leftward, the PYRAthe former Virginius purchased the knife MID OF CAIUS CESTIUS and the Protestant with which he preserved his daughter from cemetery, the grand mass of the BATHS OF slavery. On the Via S. Teodoro is the CARACALLA; still farther to the left the ancient TEMPLE OF ROMULUS, now the Gate of St. Sebastian, VILLA MATTEI, ST. church of S. Teodoro. Continuing down STEFANO ROTONDO, fragments of the the Via S. Teodoro, we turn to the right aqueducts, with a piece of wall containing into the Via S. Giorgio in Velabro, and the ARCH OF DOLABELLA, the churches come to the Arch of JANUS QUADRIFRONS, of STS. JOHN AND PAUL, ST. Gregory, an ugly sample of Roman taste. At the and ST. JOHN LATERAN, the ruins of the right of it is an interesting monument to BATHS OF TITUS on the Cælian, and, finalSeptimius Severus by the goldsmiths ofly, a fine view of the COLOSSEUM on the ruined side. At the west, beneath the ruins, is a plain which was formerly the CIRCUS MAXIMUS, supposed to be the scene of the rape of the Sabines. Continuing the road by which we came, we reach the BATHS OF CARACALLA by a narrow road turning off to the right just after crossing the brook (this brook, be it here noted, once came into the city by the Claudian Aqueduct). Beyond, by the main road (which is the old Via Appia), we come to the TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS, the COLUMBARIA, the ARCH OF DRUSUS, and the PORTA S. SEBASTIANO. Returning toward the Forum, we turn to the right before reaching the house of Augustus, and follow the Via S. Gregorio, passing a fragment of the CLAUDIAN AQUEDUCT on the left and under the ARCH OF CONSTANTINE. This monument, at once of the power of the emperor and of the want of taste and artistic power of his age, was formerly an Arch of Trajan, and was removed to its present site by Constantine, and reconstructed, with the addition of some sculptures which are the most barbarous to be found in Rome. As you emerge from the arch you find immediately in front of you the META SUDANS, or fountain in which the gladiators were accustomed to wash after their exercises. At the left is the VIA SACRA, descending from the ARCH OF TITUS, which stands on the top of the ridge dividing the Forum from the low land on which the Colosseum is built. At the right of the Arch of Titus is the huge structure of the TEMPLE OF VENUS AND ROME, of which the double tribune only remains. Numerous fragments of granite columns strew the ground, hinting faintly at the magnificence of the temple when it stood. This temple was built by Hadrian after his own design, and there is a story to the effect that when it was finished he asked Apollodorus what he thought of it; the architect replying that it was very good for an emperor, Hadrian ordered him beheaded. Beyond the temple, and partially visible over it, are the remains of the BASILICA OF CONSTANTINE, commenced by Maxentius as a Temple of Peace, and finished by Constantine after the defeat and death of Maxentius. To the right of the Temple of Venus and Rome, and on a level with the Arch of Constantine, is the square base on which stood the colossal statue of Nero. At your right, and filling the remainder of the view, is the FLAVIAN AMPHITHEATRE, known as the Colosseum. This greatest of antique structures, built in honor of Titus, and on which it is said 60,000 Jews were engaged ten years, would probably have been in a nearly complete state but for the ravages of man during the Middle Ages. It was a feudal fortress for a long time, and finally a quarry from which were built churches and palaces, until, by its consecration as holy ground on account of the number of martyrs supposed to have been immolated there, farther ravage was stopped. The subsequent repairs, though greatly interfering with its picturesqueness, will doubtless have the effect of preserving the remainder for centuries more. It is said to have given seats to 87,000 spectators, and was inaugurated A.D. 81, the same year in which Titus died, on which occasion 5000 wild animals and 10,000 captives were slain. The inauguration lasted one hundred days. There are three orders of architecture used in the four stories-the first Doric, second Ionic, the third and fourth Corinthian. In each of the lower tiers there were eighty arches. The circumference of the building is 1641 feet, the height of the outer wall 157; the length of the arena is 278 feet, and width 177; the whole superficial area is six acres. "I do remember me that in my youth, When I was wandering, upon such a night stars Shone through the rents of ruin; from afar And twines its roots with the imperial hearths; Grovel on earth in indistinct decay." It is only by ascending to the upper terrace that the enormous size of the Colosseum is fully seen, and by moonlight the effect of size and massiveness is much increased, and the modern repairs lost sight of. To obtain entrance at night, it is necessary to have a ticket from the commandant de place: your card is sufficient application. The ruins south of the Colosseum are supposed to have been the Vivarium, in which were kept the wild beasts for the combats. In the vineyard northeast are the remains of the BATHS OF TITUS, founded on a portion of the Golden House of Nero, in the excavation of which were discovered the mural paintings which gave so great an impetus to the classic revival of art. Returning to the Forum by the road behind the Temple of Venus and Rome, you pass through the ruins of the BASILICA OF CONSTANTINE, one of the most impressive fragments in Rome, and re-enter the Forum near the TEMPLE OF REMUS, now the church of SS. Cosmo and Damiano, of which it forms a beautiful portico. The body of the building, as well as that of the Temple of ANTONINUS and FAUSTINA, just beyond (now S. Lorenzo in Miranda), has doubtless been preserved nearly or quite entire under its refitting. Senate), and contains the senatorial courtroom, the offices of the municipality, etc., and the observatory of the Capitol. Above is the Tower of the Capitol, famous for its view of the seven hills, but now absolutely and unexceptionably closed to the public. In this tower hangs the Patarina, the bell which announces the death of the Pope and the beginning of Carnival. Below is the Museum of Ancient Architecture, and some passages leading down into substructions; also a staircase which gave exit into the Forum. The building at the right, the PALACE OF THE CONSERVATORS, contains the PROTOMOTECA, or gallery of busts of illustrious men of Italy; the picture-gallery, and the bronze group of the wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, the oldest Roman work of art. Statues and antique fragments are arranged around the court. The third building is the MUSEUM of the Capitol, a magnificent collection of antique marbles and bronzes, A catalogue of the statues may be obtained. On entering the building, we see at the bottom of the court the colossal statue of Ocean, which formerly stood in the Forum Following the narrow street which leads of Mars, and remarkable for being the figpast the Mamertine Prison, the Via de Mar-ure on which was posted, in former times, forio, we pass on our right, just before reaching the Via di Ripresa de Barberi, the TOMB OF BIBULUS, a relic of the consular period, and in excellent preservation. It is of peperino, and, like most of the Roman monuments, owes its present existence to having been built on in later times. Going to the left, at the next turning we shall reach the Piazza di Ara Cœli, the square in front of the CAPITOL. The church at the left, facing the Capitol, is S. M. di Ara Coli, standing on the site of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. The the answers to the satirical sayings of Pasquino. On the first floor are the Halls of Bronzes and of Urns. On the stairway to the first floor are numerous fragments discovered in the Temple of Remus. stairway conducts to a gallery of busts and inscriptions. At the top of the stairway is the Hall of the Dying Gladiator, which, in addition to this brightest gem of art, contains many works of the highest order. First is the figure from which it derives its name, which was found in the gardens of Sallust. The wonderful, simple, and natural position of the limbs, the relaxing muscles and failing strength, the lineaments of the face, expressive of the utmost anguish, yet endowed with manly fortitude, might well call forth from Pliny, "With such admirable art was the statue of the Dying Gladiator sculptured by Cresilas, that one could judge how much of life re The CAPITOL, the modern Campidoglio, is founded on the ancient Capitolium, the citadel of Rome, of which the wall on the side toward and overhanging the Forum still remains in tolerable condition. The present structure is the work of different ages, the design of the front, as it now stands, being by Michael Angelo. Ascending the steps which lead from the pi-mained." azza, we enter a smaller piazza, of which three sides are palaces; that in front, the Capitol proper, is now the palace of the senators (which, in the present state of things, represents, hieroglyphically, the Roman "I see before me the gladiator lie; He leans upon his hand-his manly brow |