The second volume opens with an account of some excursions made in the neighbourhood of Naples; particularly to the Furce Caudinæ, to Benevento, and to Pæstum, which are highly entertaining and instructive; together with a description of the court of Naples, and a delineation of the character of its two sovereigns; after which the travellers returned to Rome. While speaking of the great projects of draining the Pomptine marsbes, of the formation of the museum Pium Clementinum, and of the restoration of three of the ancient obelisks, projects the exclusive credit of which belongs to the late Pius the VIth ; and which were for a while frustrated by "the agitations of the revolution, the invasion of Italy, and the occupation of Rome itself;" Mr. Eustace attributes to that same pontiff another great design, which would have been more beneficial to Rome, to Italy, and to Europe, than all the others united; namely, the forming a confederation of all the states, and an union of all the forces and means of Italy, in order to protect the common country against a French invasion. On this subject we are in possession of much authentic and highly interesting information, which we may, perhaps, be induced at a future period to lay before the public. On the subject of the French invasion of Italy, Mr. Eustace takes the occasion of introducing an elegant quotation from that classical, nervous, though now prostituted Italian poet, the exAbate Monti. We cannot resist the pleasure of inserting it here. "Spumava la Tirrena onda suggetta Sotto le Franche prore; e la premea Taciturno ed umil volgea l'arena Solo il Tebro levava alto la testa; E divina querriera in corta gonna, Bassvilliana. Canto 3. terz. 10-14. We have next a very learned chapter, containing some scientific observations on ancient names, on Roman architecture, the papal government and its character; and, lastly, some remarks on the character of the Romans, ancient and modern. To stop at this, and to examine the plausibility of Mr. Eustace's conjectures, and the soundness of his reasoning, is not within the scope of our present review of his work; we by no means wish, however, to convey our unqualified approbation of all that is therein said on those miscellaneous subjects by our necessary silence. On the 3d of August the travellers set out from Rome. In not quite six months from the time of their descending the Rhetian Alps, the indefatigable couriers had overrun Italy to its very southernmost promontory, and twice visited Rome! Surely after this we shall not again hear of complaints made against Italian "Postiglioni" and "Vetturini." We question whether a sober travelling clerk from a Manchester manufacturing house, with all due economy of time and money, could perform a mercantile tour of England in search of commissions in so short a space, notwithstanding our great superiority to the Italians in vehicles, horses, and other travelling accommodations. "As we rolled (says Mr. Eustace) under the arch of the Porta del Popolo, and heard the gates close behind us; as we passed the Ponte Milvio, and looked down on the Tiber flowing dimly beneath, our regret redoubled, and all the magnificence of Rome, now left behind us for ever, presented itself once more to our recollection." (Vol. II. p. 171.) Our traveller's route now lay through the territory of ancient Etruria by Spoleto, Faligno, and Assisi; at the mentioning of which city Mr. Eustace, whom we ought before to have introduced to our readers as a clergyman of the Catholic communion, takes an opportunity of descanting on the virtues and genius of St. Francis, distinguished from other saints of the same name in the Roman calendar by the addition of the name of his native town. On leaving Perugia they first discovered the lake Trasimenus, and then entered the Tuscan territory, of which the first town they met worth notice was Arrezzo, Arretium, the birth-place of Petrarca. At sun-set (8th or 9th of August) they entered Florence. "Florence is seated in a vale, intersected by the Arno, graced by numberless hills, and bordered, at no great distance, by mountains of various forms rising gradually towards the Apennines. The whole vale is one continued grove and garden, where the beauty of the country is enlivened by the animation of the town, and the fertility of the soil redoubled by the industry of its cultivators. White villas gleam through the orchards on every side, and large populous hamlets border the roads and almost line the banks of the river. Such is the scene of comfort and prosperity that surrounds the Tuscan capital (alas! how different now), raised originally by the genius of liberty, and restored by the grand duke Leopold. Happy will it be for the inhabitants if its charms can resist the blasts from hell which have passed the Alps and the Apennines, and now brood in tempest over the Val d'Arno. "The city itself spreads along the side of the river, which forms one of its greatest ornaments, and contributes not a little to its fame. Its streets are well paved, or rather flagged, wider than usual in southern climates; and its houses in general solid and rather stately. It has several squares, and many churches and palaces, so that its appearance is airy, clean, and sometimes rising towards grandeur. I do not, however, think that the number of great edifices corresponds with the reputation of the city, or with the figure which it has so long made in the annals of modern history; it is, indeed, to be considered, that we came directly from Rome, and that the glories of that capital, when fresh upon the mind, must naturally eclipse the inferior splendour of every other city." (Vol. II. p. 205.) The cathedral and some other churches, in the edification or restoration of which Michael Angelo bore a part, are next described; then the "Palazzi, and afterwards the gallery, now stripped of its honours." The delightful environs of Florence next engage the ever powerful and varying talents for description of Mr. Eustace. Amongst these Vallombrosa, the supposed original of Milton's description of Eden, claimed first the traveller's attention. The sketch of this most picturesque spot, the account of the abbey, its inhabitants, and their hospitality, is here given with much spirit and faithful precision. This spot, however, is now barren and silent, and those "blasts from hell," which, as Mr. Eustace well expressed it, were brooding over the Tuscan land, have involved within their gigantic whirlwind even this sacred retreat. The forests and dells resound no more with the toll of the church-going bell: the wide-spreading cedar, the darksome pine, the mournful cypress, no longer wave their aged brows to the embalmed air. The majestic abbey, the enchanting Paradisino, the sylvan scene, the "woody theatre of stateliest view,"-all, all have disappeared since Mr. Eustace's visit to that bewitching spot. Lucca, Pisa, and Leghorn, are next described; but we must pass over the accounts of these places, and accompany our traveller over the Mare Tyrrhenum, on their return to the north of Italy. They embarked, by invitation, on board his Majesty's ship Medusa, Captain Gore, and entered the harbour of Genoa after a short and pleasant passage. We could not have wished for a fuller nor for a better description of the state of Genoa, at the epoch in which our traveller visited it, than what is to be found in these pages. The fact is, that Genoa, though remarkable for the great number of "Marmores Palazzi," a circumstance for which the Geuoese are indebted merely to the vicinity of some of the richest quarries of that mineral, possesses few edifices which deserve the attention of the stranger either for their elegance of architecture, or the situation on which they are erected. There are but three streets that deserve to be called by that name in Genoa ; the rest are narrow, steep, and, in general, filthy lanes, not unlike those which disgrace the capital of Portugal. Neither the theatres nor the churches can claim any particular attention from the traveller. Amongst the first, that of St. Agostino, which is the principal, and generally dedicated to the representation of operas, is far beneath the meanest of all the Italian edifices of that kind. Among the churches, that of St. Laurence is considered as the cathedral, and of this Mr. Eustace gives but a superficial description. To atone for this deficiency we are regaled with a much fuller one of the church of Carignano, which we shall give to our readers in the language of the author. "We now pass to the church called di Carignano: in his way to the edifice, the traveller will behold with astonishment a bridge of the same name *, thrown over, not a river, but a deep dell, now a street; and, looking over the parapet, he will see with sur prise the roofs of several houses, of six stories high, being far beneath him. This bridge consists of three wide arches; but its boldness and elevation are its only merit, for beauty it possesses none. Full in front, on the swell of the hill of Carignano, stands the church, with a little grove around it. The situation is commanding, and well adapted to display a magnificent edifice to ad *This singular bridge is also known among the inhabitants by the name of “il Ponte degli innamorati," and sometimes "il Salto d'amore," in consequence of several "leaps" having been taken from it to end an existence which was supposed to have been rendered insupportable by disappointments in love. The bridge consists of three wide arches, and a small one; measuring in length 180 yards, 20 in breadth, and being about 100 feet high. On this bridge it is that the best company of both sexes assemble in the evening, during the warm season, to enjoy the fresh breezes from the surrounding hills; and to feast the eye on an enchanting landscape, formed by the port and the moles †, the glassy distant sea, and the stately palaces scattered on various eminences, silvered by the planet of the night. Chairs are to be had for the smallest piece of copper coin. Ices, lemonades, and other refreshments, are procured near at hand; and music often enlivens this alluring scene. It is not easy to convey to the reader an adequate idea of the sense of delight, felt by the welcome stranger, whilst mingling among these jovial groupes, where decency and politeness are never insulted or forgotten! + It is on one of these that stands the famous Pharo, one of the highest in Europe, rising 370 feet from the rock on which it is built. In prosperous times it is lighted by 35 large lamps. vantage, especially if faced with a colonnade. But the church has not that decoration; it is a square building, adorned with Corinthian pilasters. The four sides have the same ornaments, and a similar pediment, only the western side or front is rather encumbered than graced with two towers. In the centre rises a dome. The interior is in the forin of a Greek cross. The merit of this building consists in its advantageous situation and its simplicity. It has only one order, and one cornice runs unbroken all around : this single order is not loaded either with an attic or a balustrade; the cornice'is prominent and effective; the windows are not numer ous, nor too large; and the few niches are well placed. So far the architect is entitled to praise," &c. (Vol. II. p. 302, 303.) And again : "The reader will perhaps be surprised when he is informed that the church of Carignano was built at the expence of a noble Genoese, of the name of Lauli, and that the bridge which leads to it was erected by his son, to facilitate the approach to a monument so honourable to his family. Such instances of magnificence were not uncommon in the brilliant eras of Grecian and Roman liberty; though Cicero seems disposed to censure them as ostentatious, and only abstains from a severer expression out of tenderness to his friend Pompey*. We have no reason to suspect ostentation on this occasion; but, supposing that such a selfish motive had infected the founder's intention, I know uot still whether it be not far more honorable to the individual and advantageous to the public, that the exuberance of a large fortune should be thus discharged in stately edifices, than in luxurious repasts and convivial intemperance: and here I cannot suppress an observation which I think due to the Italian character. Travellers of all descriptions are apt to reproach them with a niggardly and parsimonious spirit, because they do not entertain strangers with luxuries of the table, and a succession of dinners; and because they confine their civilities to conversazzioni, and ice and lemonade. Admitting this statement to be, generally speaking, accurate, though there are many exceptions to it, yet it only follows that in their ideas of enjoyment the Italians differ much from transalpine nations, and not that their taste in this respect is irrational or ill-founded." (Vol. II. p. 304, 305.) Of the palaces in Genoa, that of Dominico Lerra is said to contain the richest and most beautiful apartments in Genoa. We know that its proprietor was obliged to ransom it at the exorbitant price of one million of Genoese livres from the rapacious avidity with which the French, during the invasion of Italy, laid their hands upon every thing valuable. Of the two greatest public institutions to be found in Genoa, VOL. V. NO. X. De Officiis, lib. ii. 17. |