CHAPTER VI.

Cauterets and its Mineral Springs—Pau—Climate of Pau The Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes—Inhabitants of Pyrenees—The Landes—Bordeaux—Climate of Bordeaux.

A Wide and well-constructed road leads by a gradual ascent from Pierrefitte, at the extremity of the vale of Argeles, to Cauterets, passing at first through a beautifully-wooded dell, between lofty pine-covered mountains, and afterwards through a more wild and sterile district, with scarcely any signs of cultivation.

This celebrated watering-place lies in the secluded valley of Lavedan, surrounded by scenery of the most romantic kind. It chiefly consists in a single street, which widens out into a square. The resident population amounts to about fifteen hundred, and about two thousand visitors could be accommodated in the season, during which period it is generally thronged, especially by the Parisians, with whom it is a favourite summer re

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treat. Apartments are, consequently, often exceedingly difficult to be obtained, and are mostly very dear. In the square is the Hotel du Cercle, where there are public rooms for reunions, but there is little general association among the visitors, so that a stranger who does not possess resources within himself, would, notwithstanding the magnificence of the scenery, find Cauterets but a dull residence. There are two or three tables d'hote, but they are not well attended. Cauterets has not the advantage of shaded walks, (the only rows of trees being in an enclosure behind the town, which serves for a promenade,) and from its being surrounded by lofty-peaked mountains, the summits of which are covered with perpetual snow, the reflection of the sun's rays must be, at times, severely felt, notwithstanding its elevated position; and what must be a great inconvenience to invalids, the bathing establishments, with one exception, are out of the town, some of them being at a distance of more than two miles.

The season lasts from June to September, before and after which periods, poor persons are allowed to use the baths on payment of a trifling sum, (two or three sous each bath.) Beyond the town a gradual ascent of the valley leads to the principal establishment—la Railliere—a handsome isolated edifice, with a central vestibule, drinking fountain, and bathing cabinets, furnished with marble baignoires and douche apparatus, on either side. Some distance beyond this, are the springs du Pre,

CAOTERETS—MINERAL SPRINGS. 75

petit St. Sauveur, and du Bois; the latter being perched high upon the mountain's side. The baths in these establishments are dark and dirtylooking; there is also in this direction the spring Mahourat, which is only used for drinking. These springs lie about a league from the town, amidst scenery of the most magnificent description, and at the junction of two foaming torrents, which, obstructed by large masses of rock detached from the mountains, form numerous cascades. From hence the road to the right conducts to the Lac de Gaube and the Pont d'Espagne, (the latter being a narrow bridge, thrown across the torrent from one rock to another,) which are the objects best worth visiting in the environs.

The temperature of the springs varies from 21 to 40R. The composition of the water is very analogous to that of other springs in this part of the Pyrenees, containing principally sulphuret of sodium, carbonate, sulphate, and muriate of soda, with carbonic acid and azotic gases in small quantities. The Railliere is the spring mostly used for drinking; it has a high reputation in pulmonary and nervous affections, and in dyspeptic cases.

Besides these springs, however, there are others in a different direction, which are much more sulphurous than the southern group, and are chiefly used for baths. These are termed Bruzaud, situate at the foot of the hill close to the town; Cesar, high up on the same hill; and la Reine, near the former. When I was at Cauterets, a large bathing

76 CACTERETS—MINERAL SPRINGS.

establishment was in progress of construction, to be supplied by the spring des Espagnols. Patients who cannot walk to the baths are carried in chaises a porteur, the price of which is very low, and which are indispensable in protecting susceptible invalids from the transitions of temperature, which are at times very great and sudden.

The number of the springs enables the practitioner the better to adapt them to individual cases and pecularities.

Though the composition of some of these Pyrenean springs be not materially different, yet they differ considerably in the important circumstances of temperature and locality, and certain of them have acquired a special reputation in particular complaints. Thus, Bareges is recommended, par excellence, in cases of old wounds, ulcers, or long standing affection of the bones; Bagneres de Luchon, in gouty, rheumatic, and cutaneous diseases; St. Sauveur in nervous complaints, and some local affections to which women are subject; while Cauterets, from the number of its springs, and the difference of their temperature, can be adapted to most of the above-mentioned indications. The greater number of patients are perhaps those labouring under the various forms of indigestion, and pulmonary complaints, or a tendency to consumption. The number of those with rheumatic and cutaneous diseases is likewise considerable.

Having enjoyed the gratification of visiting the baths of Bareges, St. Sauveur, and Cauterets, with the highly interesting scenery in their neighbourhood, the tourist who is disinclined to excursions among the mountains, or to passing into Spain, must retrace his steps by the valley of Argeles to Lourdes; whence the drive to Pau presents a different character of scenery. The road is continued for some distance on the bank of the Gave de Pau, here already a river of considerable size, and traverses a smiling country of pasture land, cornfields, and prettily-wooded hills, which seems to be the abode of fertility and contentment.

A little before arriving at Estelle, the department of the High Pyrenees terminates, and you enter that of the Low Pyrenees, where the country increases in beauty, resembling a rich garden, and producing a variety of fruit, Indian corn, and grain; the vines hanging in festoons between the trees, as in Italy.

Numerous country-houses and detached cottages are seen on approaching Pau, which is situate on an elevated plain in the richest part of the district of Beam, of which it was formerly the capital. It contains a population of twelve thousand inhabitants; is a clean and cheerful-looking town, and has greatly increased in size within the last few years, which is partly attributable to the number of English residents, and of the visitors who resort thither on the approach of winter.

In fact, Pau offers many inducements to families and invalids to select it for a winter residence.