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. INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES, ETC.,

OF THE

SOUTHERN AND WESTERN STATES.

46

AMERICA.-INTERIOR VALLEY OF NORTH | 8,000,000 of square miles to be the area AMERICA-BOUNDARIES AND APPEARANCE- of North America, the valley contains CLIMATE, NATURAL HISTORY, POPULATION, 6,000,000. The northern half is almost uninETC. One of the most useful books, recently habitable; and of the remaining 3,000,000 published in this country, is the work of Dr. square miles, only one-third is as yet Drake, on the Principal Diseases of our inhabited, and that but sparsely, by a civilInterior Valley. Its prime object is to ized population. The western boundary of detail the aetiology, pathology, and treat- the valley is the Rocky Mountains, which ment of the diseases prevalent in that val- are composed of many chains united by ley. Preliminary to the direct considera- offsets, and run northwest to the Polar Sea. tion of the subject-matter, the author gives The range varies in height from 10,000 to a careful and lengthy sketch, geological, 14,000 feet above the level of the ocean; hydrographical, climatic, physiological, and and is distant, on an average, about 10° of social, of the Interior Valley; which, apart longitude from the Pacific. The vast infrom its usefulness to the practical physician clined plane on the east of the range is and medical student, is rich with matter 5,000 or 6,000 feet lower than the mountain highly interesting to the historian, geolo- at the point of recession from the range. gist, meteorologist, and all who delight in Upon this plain are found several tracts of the discoveries of science. Unlike most high table land, either projecting from the books, this has a permanent and increasing mountains, or insulated; of which the value. Its true worth will only be known principal are the Sweetwater Mountains and hereafter. It is, in short, a "Kñμa eis deí." Black Hills, the Llano Estacado, the Ozark The present article is intended as a review, Mountains, and the Coteau des Prairies. or rather brief condensation of the prelimi- The Apalachian Mountains form the nary sketch, which occupies much the eastern boundary, which run northeasterly, larger part of the volume, being 701 pages at an average elevation about one-fourth of in length. The more strictly medical por- that reached by the chain on the western tion is not well fitted for treatment in the margin. The plain which inclines from the pages of this work; and it deserves, Apalachian Mountains to the trough of the too, and will no doubt abundantly receive, valley, is much narrower than that running the consideration of writers much better from the mountain range on the other side. acquainted than ourselves with the entire It does not, like it, present elevated ranges circle of diseases and their aetiology. In of table land, but it is in general more rugdescribing the Interior Valley we shall fol- ged. Nor does the Apalachian chain, like low substantially the order adopted by Dr. the Rocky Mountains, extend to the Polar Drake, as upon the whole the most natural Sea, but is interrupted by the lakes and the and convenient. In a treatise so brief, we River St. Lawrence, and finally disappears can have little more to do than condense the before it reaches the coast of Labrador. subject-matter of the leading topics which The northern part of the valley is an imhe discusses, referring but little, if in any mense flat, stretching across from the Rocky respect, to the observations of other writers, Mountains to the Labrador coast, deeply and indulging not at all in original specula- indented in many places by the Northern tions. In accordance with this plan, we Ocean. proceed to treat of the Boundaries and Physical Appearance of the Interior Valley.

This region extends on the north and south, from the tropic of Cancer (lat. 23° 28′ N.) to the north polar circle, the whole length of the north temperate zone; on the east and west, from the Apalachian to the Rocky Mountains, widening as one passes from south to north. Supposing

On the north side of the valley lies Hudson's Bay; on the south, the Gulf of Mexico ; both penetrating deeply into the land, and each a reservoir of many large rivers, which originate in the centre of this region. Lakes are seldom found in the southwestern part of the valley, but are numerous in the more northern portion. Deserving of particular notice is that remarkable chain

which, commencing with Great Bear Lake in the northeast corner of the valley, (lon. 127,) runs southerly as far as Lake Erie, (lat. 40°, lon. 80°,) and then northeasterly into the River St. Lawrence, through which the waters of nearly the whole series are discharged into the Atlantic. This is the longest chain of lakes in the world. The valley abounds in rivers, on which are situated our largest cities, and between which, in the bottom lands, resides the densest rural population. These rivers have, severally, hydrographical axes, or centres, in which they originate, and by which they are divided into as many distinct groups as there are distinct centres. Of these axes, some lie wholly within the valley; others among the mountains on its eastern and western margins. Those within the valley are: 1. The region west of Lake Superior, (mean lat. 47, mean lon. 95,) whose average elevation is 1,500 feet, and from which rivers flow in three different directions. These are, the Mississippi, running southeast through the central trough of the valley; the St. Lawrence, known first as the St. Louis, then by other names, until it flows from Lake Ontario northeasterly into the Gulf of St. Lawrence; the Red River of the north, which flows northward under various titles for 1,500 miles, and empties at last into Hudson's Bay. 2. The country west of Lake Michigan, (mean lat. 45°, lon. 89° to 92,) which axis, however, is altogether subordinate to the preceding. Its rivers run mostly into the Mississippi; the rest into the lakes. 3. On the other side of the same lake there is another centre, of from five to 1,100 feet elevation, from which streams flow west, north and east. 4. The region occupied by Ohio and Indiana, of greatest elevation in its eastern part, (1,100 feet,) but abounding most in rivers in its western. The waters of this axis flow partly into the lakes and partly into the Ohio. Of the former character the principal streams are, the St. Joseph, Maumee, Sandusky, Cuyahoga, and Grand; of the latter, the chief are the Kankakee, (true head of the Illinois,) Wabash, Great Miami, Sciota, Muskingum, and Big Beaver. 5. Far to the south are the highlands of Alabama and Mississippi, from which centres short tributaries of the Tennessee flow north; to the south are the Yazoo and Big Black, flowing into the Mississippi; the Pearl and Pascagoula into the Gulf of Mexico, and the Tombigbee and Black Warrior flowing into the Alabama, and finally into the same gulf. 6. In the northern part of Texas, a hilly axis, whence flow the Sabine, Trinity, Brazos, Colorado and Nueces, into the Mexican Gulf. 7. The Ozark Mountains, whence descend various tributaries of the Arkansas and of the Missouri; and the Maramac, St. Francis,

White, and Washita, (through the Red,) affluents of the Mississippi. 8. The Black Hills, in Missouri Territory, from which all the eastern streams empty in the Missouri directly, and the western mediately by its chief branch, the Yellow Stone. 9. The water table far north, between Hudson's Bay and the lakes, and the St. Lawrence, from which streams descend to the north and to the south. 10. The sterile region still farther to the north and west, east of Great Bear Lake, on the borders of the frigid zone, from which the water is shed from the one side into Great Slave Lake, from the other into the Polar Sea.

The hydrographical axes, or centres, which exist in the western mountain border of the valley, are the two following: 1. The northern Rocky Mountain axis, (mean lat. 51°, mean lon. 115°,) of from ten to 12,000 feet elevation, and the origin of the largest rivers on the continent. It sends down from its west side to the Pacific, Frazer River and the north fork of the Oregon, (Clarke;) from its east side, the streams composing the Mackenzie, which empties into the Polar Sea, the head waters of Saskatchawan, and the Maria, the northern branch of the Missouri. 2. The Southern Rocky Mountain axis, (mean lat. 41°, mean lon. 107,) with an average elevation of 11,000 feet. From the western side it sends down the south fork of the Oregon, (Lewis,) and the Rio Colorado, which latter flows into the Gulf of California. On its east side originate the southern branches of Big Horn, the Platte, and Kansas, tributaries of the Missouri, Arkansas and Red, which flow into the Mississippi; the Rio del Norte emptying into the Mexican Gulf.

The hydrographical axes of the eastern mountain border are these: 1. The elevated region of the White and Green mountains, from which streams flow, on the north and west, into the St. Lawrence and Lake Champlain; on the south, the St. John, Penobscot, Kennebec, and Connecticut, into the Atlantic. 2. The axis between the lakes Ontario and Champlain, from which a number of rivers, chiefly small, flow in all directions. Of these, the chief is the Hudson. 3. The centre, lying in New-York and Pennsylvania, of an average height of 1,800 feet. From this proceeds, on the north, the Genesee and the Oswego; on the east, the western branches of the Susquehanna; on the southwest, the headwaters of the Alleghany. ! 4. The region in Virginia, between lat. 38° and 39o, and lon. 79 and 80°, of a mean elevation of 2,000 feet. On the east it sends down the Potomac and James; on the north, the Monongahela; on the southwest, the Greenbrier, a branch of the Kanawha. 5. The elevated region, (3,000 feet,) situated mainly in North

Carolina, but extending into S. W. Virginia, the northern parts of South Carolina and Georgia, and the eastern portion of Tennessee (mean lat. 36°, mean lon. 82°;) from which rivers radiate from the east to the northwest through three quarters of a circle. From the east and south it throws off the Roanoke, Cape Fear, Gadkin, the tributaries of the Santee, and the Savannah. On its west side originate the Kanawha, Big Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland, Tennessee, Chattahoochie and Alabama. Rising in the outlines and hill lands on the east side, we have the Pedee and Altamaha; on the west, or valley side, the Guyandotte, Licking, and Green. From these seventeen hydrographical centres proceed nearly all the rivers of North America.

The interior of the valley is traversed by a deep, winding depression, extending from the Mexican Gulf to Hudson's Bay. From either side of this trough arises an inclined plane, each growing more elevated as it approaches its mountain boundary. That on the east is considerably smaller than the western. The Mississippi traverses this trough, or axis, from the Gulf to St. Peter's River, (lat. 44° 52',) whence it follows the course of that stream to Big Stone Lake, passes thence through Lake Traverse and along Swan Creek and Red River to Lake Winnipeg, and thence along Nelson River to Hudson's Bay, (lat. 579.) The axis is synclinal, that is, it has a dip in two different directions, to the south and to the north. Its culminating point is the small and narrow tract, (three miles wide.) situate between the lakes Big Stone and Traverse, the elevation of which is about 975 feet. From Big Stone Lake the axis declines to the Mexican Gulf at the rate of twelve inches for every minute of latitude. From Lake Traverse it dips northward but slightly until it reaches Lake Winnipeg, (elevation 750 feet,) whence it falls precipitously to Hudson's Bay. The line of culmination crossing the synclinal axis between Big Stone and Traverse Lakes, extends to the Rocky Mountains on the west, (lat. 49°,) and on the east to Lake Superior, which is set, so to speak, in its eastern extremity.

From the region west of Lake Superior a new culminating ridge begins, running about southeast, nearly at right angles with the last mentioned, around the head of Lake Michigan, until it reaches lat. 41°, whence it proceeds northeast to the northern sources of the Alleghany, (lat. 42° 15', lon. 78° 30',) in New-York. From the northern side of this ridge the waters are poured partly into Hudson's Bay by the Red River, but mostly into the Gulf of St. Lawrence by the River St. Louis, the lake chain, and their aqueduct, the River St. Lawrence. The waters running from its southern side are

discharged by the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. To this culminating ridge there is a corresponding synclinal axis, which extends from Lake Superior along the lake chain and the St. Lawrence to the gulf of that name, somewhat at right angles to the axis already described. The two axes once had extensive water communication, especially by the river Illinois, along which canoes have passed in high water from one trough to the other. Thus we have formed by the axes, culminating ridges and mountains which have been described, three distinct hydrographical basins. The first, constituting one-third of the whole, is bounded on the north by the culminating ridges already spoken of, on the west by the Rocky Mountains, on the east by the Alleghanies, (Apalachian mountains,) and on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, into which all its superfluous waters are discharged. It is usually known as the Valley of the Mississippi; but as that river does not drain the whole of the southern part of the basin, (viz : Texas, Eastern Mexico, East Mississippi, South Alabama, West Georgia, West Florida,) it may be more appropriately called the Southern or Mexican Basin. The second basin receives the name St. Lawrence, because that river conveys all its waters to the ocean. The third is the Hudson Basin, extending some twenty degrees in latitude, and lying between 70° and 115° of west longitude. A fourth basin, whose water-sheds have not yet been fully described, includes the whole northern seacoast from Baffin's Bay to the Rocky Mountains, and is denominated the Polar Basin. Of these four hydrographical basins, into which the interior valley is divided, the first is, on many accounts, the most interesting.

The geological character of the valley is striking. The soil, or earthy covering of the country, is composed naturally of the disintegrated and decomposed subjacent rocks, and would always be such in the main, were the decomposed materials kept in the place where they are formed. This, however, cannot be; for the rains are constantly washing down this substance, alluvion, as it is called, from the hills into the valleys, whence it is borne along by streams, and gradually deposited in beds, forming alluvial grounds or bottom lands. Owing to the necessary mixture of materials of a vastly different minerological and organic composition, these alluvial grounds form an extremely complicated system. The system is, moreover, so extensive, on account of the vast number of agencies at work in its formation, that every part of the valley may be traversed from north to south, or from sea to sea, without leaving them, except to cross the streams by which they have been deposited.

In the rear of these alluvial bottoms are found, along many rivers, higher deposits of transported materials of less extent than the bottom lands, but evidently made by rivers much deeper and broader than any now existing. Closely related to these formations are the deposits on the general surface of the country, which extend from the sea of the south to an elevation of 1,500 feet on the mountain slopes and higher parts of the valley plain. They vary in depth from a few feet to 100 or more, and are composed of water-worn materials undeniably brought down from the north. These deposits are known as diluvion, drift, or post-tertiary. Co-extensive with them are found immense bowlders of granite and other primitive rocks lying at great distances from their parent strata, which were most probably transported, at a remote period, from the north, while imbedded in blocks of floating ice.

over an equal area, is the geological structure so simple and uniform; in no other does it so decidedly constitute the whole into one natural region.

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It is an obvious truth, that these formations have undergone but few disruptions from any force acting beneath. The Ozark Hills, of primitive rock, in Arkansas and Missouri, have, it is true, been pushed up through the secondary; and, in the former state, there are some volcanic appearances, in the midst of which we find the hot springs of Washita; still further, the great earthquakes of 1811 had their focus in the same quarter. But the whole region is of insignificant extent compared with the entire valley, which elsewhere shows scarcely a vestige of volcanic action. If, however, the rock formations of the interior of the continent still lie in their original position, all that were deposited are not here now. best geologists have come to the conclusion that much has been washed away; that vast submarine currents have swept the continent from north to south; scooped out or steepened the valley by cutting down its strata ; produced the general levelness of its surface, and finally left upon it the primitive bowlders and other drift or post-tertiary deposits which have been described."

Our

A farther description of the geological character of the valley can best be given in the words of Dr. Drake himself: "We must now penetrate the loose, upper coverings, and briefly indicate the nature of the strata below. In doing this, if we begin, as in the study of our physical geography, at the Gulf of Mexico, and proceed up the valley, along its synclinal axis, we shall find that The Southern Hydrographical Basin.—Our different rocks successively crop out, each limits preclude us giving more than a very to constitute the surface for a certain space, brief skeleton of this portion of Dr. Drake's and then to be succeeded by a deeper, which book. The amount of information on the has emerged from beneath it. We shall also various topics discussed, which he has acfind that we pass progressively from the cumulated from numerous sources as well as very newest to the oldest; though all the personal observation, and his generally logiformations which lie between those ex- cal deductions from a generalization of the tremes, in all countries, may not be met same, impart to this division of his work a with. Thus, around the Gulf of Mexico, we peculiar value. The nature of the subject begin on broad and deep alluvial deposits; first leads to the consideration of the Gulf then rise on diluvial or post-tertiary, and of Mexico, the position of which, its depth then on tertiary. To these, in Southern currents, temperature, tides, inundations Alabama and Mississippi, succeeds a creta- and coasts, are successively treated. Next ceous deposit, extending into west Tennes- comes the special topography of the Mexisee, followed by the coal formations of can coasts, of which we should like, had we Illinois and Missouri: then, advancing, we room, to present a short sketch, especially arrive in northern Illinois and Wisconsin, of that elaborate part relating to the delta of upon the Devonian shales and sandstones the Mississippi and its neighboring localiwhich underlie the coal basin; then, upon ties. Above its delta, as high up as the the silurian or transition limestones, sand-mouth of the Missouri, there lies on each stones and slates; and lastly, upon granite side of the Mississippi a series of low alluand other primitive rocks, which stretch northerly from Lake Superior to the Polar Sea. To the east and west of the line supposed to be traveled over, most of these formations spread out with great regularity and amplitude. Thus, there is a geological, not less than a geographical, unity in the Interior Valley. Not the unity of a single formation, existing everywhere, but the unity of one system of formations, deposited on a scale of vast extent, and subsequently subjected to the same influences, whether conservative or destructive. In no other country,

vial lands, which are divided into four distinct bottoms; the Tensas, the Yazoo, the St. Francis, and the American. Above the last commences the region described as the Upper Mississippi. The St. Francis bottom is terminated about thirty miles above Cairo by approaching rocky highlands. The alluvial region below is the most extensive of the kind in America, having an area of about 20,000 square miles. It extends from north to south, in a straight line, a distance of 400 miles, but more than 900, reckoning by the course of the river. The

Of the country lying between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, not much, comparatively, is known, and the larger part of it is still a wilderness. It possesses, however, not a few claims to the attention of the naturalist, and is destined, in the course of time, to exercise a weighty influence upon the affairs of this republic.

major part of these bottom lands are subject | In the west, south, and east of the region, to annual overflows, from which, however. are extensive coal deposits, and their accomthey may be, and at some future time will panying sandstones, shales and limestone. be, reclaimed, by the intelligent application Devonian sandstones and shales, of an older of scientific principles. date, and also silurian limestone, still older, exhibit themselves in the central part. These rocks are hardened, and the streams cutting through them flow in narrow ravines, except among the deep and extensive diluvial deposits of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. The waters of this are conveyed to the Mississippi by the Ohio. This latter river runs sluggishly, and in a wide channel, from the mouth of the Tennessee to its own. Above the Tennessee, as far up as the mountains, its banks are more elevated, two terraces of earth being frequently seen, and sometimes three. The lowest bottoms are argillaceous, with a deep soil. The second and third terraces consist of bowlders, pebbles, gravel and sand, over which is a stratum of loam, above which again is spread a thin layer of soil. The bowlders are composed of fragments of every kind of rock yet discovered east, northeast, and north of the Ohio; and they grow larger as one ascends northward. Organic remains are found in all three terraces, imbedded in a tenacious blue clay. Back of the terraces, at an average distance of one mile from the river, a line of hills, about 400 feet high, runs parallel with the stream for 600 miles, where they join the out-crops of the Apalachian coal formation.

A portion of East Louisiana, all Mississippi, nearly the whole of Alabama and West Florida, and West Georgia, lying east of the Mississippi and south of the Ohio basin, constitute another region of peculiar geological and hydrographical character. Its northeast portion, containing the extreme outlines of the Apalachian mountain range, is mountainous or hilly. The mountains in Georgia and East Alabama are composed of primitive rocks; those further west, of the older secondary limestones, and of sandstones and shales belonging to the coal formations. Coal appears on the surface at certain points of the Black Warrior and the Catawba. South and west of these occurs the most extensive cretaceous formation yet discovered in North America. In the north this formation is hilly; to the south appear frequent and extensive plains. The rivers of this part of the region are subject to inundation. South of the cretaceous formations are tertiary, post-tertiary, diluvial and alluvial deposits, which reach to the Gulf of Mexico. These deposits are even less consolidated than the cretaceous, which latter are friable in texture, of miscellaneous composition, and contain organic remains.

Another, and, in many respects, the most important hydrographical region of the southern third of the valley, is what is felicitously called the Ohio Basin. The central states of this basin are Kentucky and Ohio, which, however, do not lie wholly within it. It includes, also, the most of Tennessee, the north end of Alabama, the N. W. corner of Alabama, the west of North Carolina, western Virginia, the west of Pennsylvania, part of the S. W. corner of New-York, Indiana, and half of Illinois. Its elevation, not reckoning mountains, is more than double (700 to 1,000 feet) that of the regions already described. Some of its mountains rise from 2,500 to 5,000 feet. South of the Ohio the surface is ridgy, and to the east mountainous. In the northwest are tracts of level land resembling, in some respects, the plains of Alabama. Near the mouths of the Ohio and Tennessee are found cretaceous deposits, similar to those of the last described region. Everywhere else, at the surface, the geological formations are older.

The remainder of the Southern Basin is a narrow belt of land, extending 10° of latitude along the east bank of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio. Its southern half lies in Illinois; its northern, in Wisconsin. The general aspect of the region is rolling, but prairies abound in all parts. The southern portion has an elevation of about 800 feet; the northern reaches a height of from 1,500 to 1,800 feet. In the south is the Illinois coal formation; towards the north the older rocks appear, and finally the primitive strata near the sources of the Mississippi.

The remaining three great hydrographical basins of the Interior Valley are quite different in their configuration and general character from that of which we have just given an imperfect, yet, as far as it goes, a correct outline. These three, want of space compels us to pass in silence.

Climate of the Valley.-The axis of the valley runs nearly in the same meridian from the torrid to the frigid zone; and. therefore, it presents every modification which is the effect of the sun's rays in various latitudes. But, though that luminary is the prime cause of all climatic phenomena, its influence is not always immediately asserted. Acting on continents and seas, it imparts heat to the atmosphere in very unequal degrees,

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