Foreign eye than the Beggars idling upon the road, and the women, in short petticoats and black caps, at work in the fields.

As you approach Zurich, a manufacturing town of ten thousand people, beautifully situated at the north end of the lake that bears its name (a charming expanse of water ten leagues in length and one in breadth) the neighbouring hills rise into a stupendous amphitheatre, sloping gradually to the lucid arena, which is every where bordered with vineyards and pasture grounds, dotted with alternate villas, villages and towns, and pointed with the glistening spires of the capital, at one end, and the snowy peaks of Schweitz and Glarus, at the other.

The

The transparent Limmat flows from the lake through the middle of the town, and a broad wooden bridge serves alike for a market place, and a public walk, where walking is not quite so fashionable an amusement as it is in France and England. The principal Inn (where we had the good fortune to find the pleasantest apartments unoccupied) encroaches upon one side of the bridge, fronts the outlet of the lake, and presents between the tall spires of the churches on the right and left, the distant chain of Alpine summits-white with the frost of ages.

Here we have pitched our tents, as from this commanding station we can reconnoitre Switzerland, and direct scouting parties at will, to scale the walls of the mountain, explore the defiles of the

glacier

glacier, or lodge in ambush among the islands of the lake, or the thickets of the valley.

Zurich was the first town in Switzerland that separated itself from the prescriptive corruptions of Mother Church. It was here that the moderate and charitable Zuinglius, originally a Priest of Glarus, had ventured to preach against vows, pilgrimages, and votive offerings, before the effervescence of Reformation had been provoked by the sale of indulgences under Leo the Tenth.

The Communion had been peaceably substituted for the Mass, by a resolution. of the Magistrates, as early as the year 1524: but the Reformers of Zurich, being unhappily seized with the rage for propagating

propagating the principles of good will to men by the arguments of fire and sword, instituted a Protestant Crusade against the neighbouring Cantons of Schweitz and Uri; and at the battle of Kappel Zuinglius himself (I blush for the inconsistency of the Minister of the Gospel) fell a victim to misguided zeal, in defending, at the command of the Magistrates, another banner than that of the Prince of Peace.

The streets of Zurich are narrow and crooked; but there is a beautiful little square, the court-yard of a forsaken convent, upon the top of an eminence that overlooks the adjacent houses. To this airy brow we often walked of an evening to see the last beams of sunshine linger upon the white peaks that overlook the farther

farther extremity of the lake

-Some

times at high noon, in pensive guise, we roved along the double rows of lime trees that border the junction of the Sill and the Limmat, and cast a night of shade upon the tomb of Gesner, the pastoral poet, who was buried, at his own request, in one of the thickets of the grove.

In the Library of Zurich is preserved the original manuscript of Quintilian, from which the first modern edition was printed. It was discovered on the revival of Learning, together with several other unique copies of the Classics, among the musty legends of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Gall, where the neglected Ancients had slumbered in tranquillity a thousand

years.