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PROGRESSIVE IMPROVEMENTS IN DRESS.

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REMARKS
ON THE PROGRESSIVE

trimmed with a bias fold of gauze, plaited, corset, either grey or blue, ornamented n large plaits, at a great distance from with four rows of silver buttons: the neck each other; a large bouquet of geranium is is covered with a kind of tippet of fine placed on one side of these bats, and many || scalloped lace; and they wear on their ladies have a quilling of red gauze at the heads a Phrygian cap of cloth of gold, or edge, to suit the blossom of the geranium. || velvet, richly embroidered with gold. Pinks are a more favourite ornament on hats than roses; they are generally five in a bunch. The hats and bonnets are getting smaller very fast : bonvets of plaid gauze IMPROVEMENTS IN FASHIONS AND have lately made their appearance in the

DRESS. carriages of some of our elegantes ; they Thirty or thirty-five years ago, ladies are either of brown, green, and blue, or the wore enormous bouquets placed on one side, real tartan; they are bent down, and ex and being chiefly green, mingled with varitended wide on each side of the face. ous kinds of heath, they appeared like

Embroidery is but little worn at the bor brooms. A celebrated lady of quality conders of gowns; but puckered flounces, and quered this fashion, by having the nosegays flounces bouillonés, are very general.-

of her coachman and footmen, on a grand Printed calico gowns are universally worn court-day, made up exactly in the same in undress, with flounces of the same ma manner; the little brooms accordingly disterial; and the short sleeves, which you appeared, and the bouquets, on court-days, may think outré in undress, come nearly seem the exclusive right of the party-coto the elbow; the arm, however, is always loured gentry. covered with a loose glove: short sleeves Dancing has undergone a total revoluare very general here, and the dresses, tion--difficulty is, now, preferred before highly appropriate to summer, are made grace—and, except in that whirling dance, partially low, and a light ficku is worn the waltz, the elegant turn of the arms underneath; though very many ladies yet seems wholly neglected. Many young lacontinue to wear a pelerine of the same dies dance a simple country-dance, looking material as the dress. A cambric dress as if they were at a funeral, their whole has just been finished for the Duchess of care being taken up bow to vary their steps; Angouleme; it has one broad flounce of and while they sometimes appear almost to muslin, headed with rich fringe-work, and | Aly, their countenances are dull, heavy, and edged with lace; above this flounce are

inanimate: our very fine dancers, who rows of several tucks.

make all these twists, turns, and varied The sempstress cornette is much worn as

steps, without the least difficulty, appear a breakfasting costume : it is of muslin, I like so many Opera dancers. It certainly beautifully embroidered, and made like a shews some skill to lift the leg nearly as laque, in front, à-la-diadê me: the crown is high as the shoulder, without bending the divided into three quarters, with lace leti knee, or destroying the equilibrium of the in between. Dress hats and toques cover body by a single stagger; yet it is a posthe tresses of our married ladies; tbe | ture unpleasant to the eye, and destroys younger females go without caps this warm

all the natural grace shed so profusely by weather, and the hair is brought very for the hand of Omnipotence over the human ward, and arranged in full curls.

form.

About thirty-five years ago, the ladies

wore black velvet collars, or necklaces, DRESS OF THE TYROLESE FEMALES,

very tight round the throat, which were The merchants' wives, and the superior wisely left off, as they were known to ocfemales of the peasantry, wear a dress pe- casion apoplexies. Complaints in the culiar to themselves, and which, to them, || stomach and chest are also less frequent is infinitely becoming. The petticoat is of since the laying aside tight and stiff stays, a brown colour, short and full, and orna and the pernicious use of iron and steel mented at the border with two rows of busks : a due attention to those corsets de. ribbou or galon, They wear with this a void of hard substances, imparting grace

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VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

and ease to the female form, can never be many of them, in the habit of reading and too earnestly recommended.

writing, by candlelight, without glasses. When we treat of those fashions which Lamps of all kinds are hurtful to the are pernicious, we are led into a wide field, eyes, and whatever care may be taken of and it is a subject which calls forth many the purity of the oil, its vapour is extremely serious observations to succeed each other, pernicious to people of weak nerves; but if at first unthought of. Since Grecian and fashion finds more elegance in a dull lamp gas lamps became in fashion, we find many than in a brilliant chandelier with wax young people obliged to wear spectacles ; candles, the length or shortness of life are and the best and strongest sight is enjoyed but secondary considerations. by people in the decline of life, who are,

MARCUS.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY;
INCLUDING VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

THE THEATRES.

Fudge. Tom resolves to put his master in

disguise; and for this purpose takes charge DRURY-LANE.

of his regimentals, to exchange them for

the first that good luck may send in his This Theatre closed on Tuesday, the 30th ult. with The Belle's Stratagem and the way. Tom is brought in contact with a Maid and the Magpie; when the following worthy butler, who, from the united inaddress was delivered by Mr. Henry John-Auence of liquor avd a sultry day, is seek

ing a respite in a deep slumber on the grass. ston:“ LADIBS AND GENTLEMEN,-This evening || and leaves behind him the Major's jacket,

Tom gets possession of the butler's livery, being fixed upon to terminate the season of dramatic performances at this Theatre, permit me

sword, &c. As soon as Timothy awakes, most respectfully to return you thanks for that he feels, very naturally, disconcerted, at the share of your patronage you have so kindly con metamorphosis of his garments. At last descended to bestow on our zealons endeavours he is reconciled to put them on, and is to merit your applause. I can truly assert, that accosted by Tom Fudge as Major Pop-lopthe efforts of the Drury-Lane company, both

trop, who won a world of honours in the collectively and individually, have been most

Peninsular war. The scene where Tom liberally honoured with the approbation of a generous and discriminating public-always imposes on the Butler, the belief that he is their most gratifying reward. I now, Ladies not Timothy Flat, but a renowned Major and Gentlemen, for myself, and the company in in the army, produces a good deal of merrigeneral, beg leave once more to offer our most

ment. At length he falls into the hands of sincere thanks; and to assure you, although the justice in two capacities—as the Major, for success of the present has been, from the peculiar circumstances of the times, less, in point of murder in a duel, and as Timothy Flat, for emolument, than that of some preceding seasons, running away with his master's livery. He our exertions will not be relaxed during the re is conducted to prison, where he is visited cess; and we hope, with confidence, to meet by the mother of his sweetheart, who our patrons with a prospect of success it will be dresses him up in her own clothes, in order our most anxious study to deserve at your hands;

to effect bis escape. This stratagem fails, and we most respectfully take leave till next

and Timothy is brought before the magiseason."

strates for examination, charged with the

murder of a brother officer, and an attempt COVENT-GARDEN.

to impose himself as a servant. Just as he A new farce has been produced at this is convicted, and about to be brought away, Theatre, under the title of Who can I be ? || intelligence arrives, that the officer supMajor Pop-lop-trop having wounded a bro- | posed to be killed is recovered from his ther officer in a duel, absconds from his wound, and has ordered a suspension of all regiment, and trusts for his security to the further proceedings. The real Major then contrivances of a trusty servant, Tom' throws off his assumed livery, and declares

VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

41

nar.

bimself, to the great joy of Timothy, who Had I a Heart, in' a most pleasing style; closes his afflictions by taking the hand of and Mr. Bartley shewed much comic his faithful Sarah. The piece was well humour in Don Jerome. Mrs. Grove is an received.

admirable Duenna. This lady, who is now

in the prime of life, has been remarkable, HAYMARKET THEATRE.

from her very early youth, for her excellent This ever-pleasing place of amusement acting in the characters of old outré fe.

males. opened for the season on Wednesday, July 15th, with the comedy of The Poor Gentle

The care that has ever been taken FRENCH COMEDIANS OF THE to procure performers of the first-rate abi

ARGYLE ROOMS. lities, has not been relaxed; this interesting At the superb mansion of Mrs. Boehm, piece, from the able pen of the classical in St. James's-square, Mademoiselle Anaïs manager, was well supported, and the house, lately played the character of the Chamber. most respectably attended.

maid, in Plot against Plot, for the benefit

of M. Perlet; and, though it was the first ENGLISH OPERA.

time of her performing that character, she Some very novel candidates for public She next performed some scenes in the

was eminently successful in this coup d'essai. approbation have been brought forward at

School for Wives ; and the spectators saw this Theatre, in the persons of several native American Indians, in their genuine again, with additional pleasure, a young

artless female, whose native graces, harcostume, who have exhibited their national dances, war-songs, and other ceremonies. I

monious voice, and pleasing manners, had This is, certainly, a curious display; and

so often obtained their approbation and interesting, in no slight degree, to those applause at the Argyle Roonis. At the end who seek upon the stage for matter-of-fact

of the performance, the Duchess of York information relative to man in his bar- seut for Mademoiselle Anaïs; and after barous state. The company has been much having, with that sweet affability which strengthened by the accession of Harley, has ever distinguished her Royal Highness, and it still retains Miss Kelly, the most given the highest eulogium to the talents delightful actress, take her altogether, that of this young actress, the Duchess was the stage of the present day can produce. pleased to express her regret at her des These, united with Bartley, Chatterley, i parture, and an ardent desire of seeing her Broadhurst, and Miss Carew, promise a again, next year, in England. successful season. The great room has been most tastefully refitted, and a refresh

FRENCH THEATRICALS. ing coolness given to the saloon of a summer theatre by fountains of real water, iu height

MADEMOISELLE Georges is gone to from twelve to tisteen feet. Miss Carew Amiens, where she will give recitations; has performed Clura, in the Duenna, with and from thence she will proceed to Brus: unbounded applause. To a voice remark- sels. She has certainly made an engage. able for clearness and melody, with con

ment for the next season at the Theatre siderable power, Miss Carew adds, pure Français, to which she will return at the taste and a highly cultivated judgment.

end of next autumn. Her execution is neat, distinct, and un

T

DE L'Opera COMIQUE.embarrassed, and proves that she calls Sketch of The Little Red Riding Hood, an science to her aid only when necessary. operatic fairy tale, in three acts. Her style is similar to that of Miss Ste Rose d'Amour, whose birth is unknown, has phens. In addition to these vocal merits, | been confided, from her cradle, to the care of a Miss Carew's person is highly prepossess

Madame Bertha, who resides in a little hut on ing; her figure elegant and well-proporo | the most formidable of all Barons; all the young

the estate of Baron Rodolpho ; now this Baron is tioned, and her countenance interesting maidens, the daughters of his vassals, run away and pretty. Mr. Pearman has sustained

at the sight of him, as a flock of lambs would fly the character of Carlos : he sabg the air ll before a wolf; and of this animal he constantly No. 112.-Vol. XVIII,

F

ATRE

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VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL

bears the nick.name, This wolf, then, has scene, runs, in fact, no danger throughout marked out Rose d'Amour for his prey; and in the rest of the piece: we find, however, order the more easily to draw her to the castle,

every kind of musical composition in it: be takes it in his head to revive a custom abolished by his father, which obliges all the

romances, chorusses, a superb finale, a vil

young maidens, of the age of sixteen, to come and cul- | lage song, hunting airs, dances, combats, a tivate his flowers for three months ; at the end of piece of admirable barmony, duos, and which they are to be sent away, with a marriage recitatives ; it may be styled a musical enportion. The lot is, that every third damisel | cyclopædia. The decorations are all new, shall remain with the Baron, and this is to be

and the scenery does honour to the artists drawn from an urn ; when it is contrived that the time of Rose d'Amour shall be drawn out, to

who painted them. be delivered up to this monsier of a Baron ; but

TAFATRE DU VAUDEVILLE.

2.-Let us be when the lots are about to be drawn, a Hermit apo | Frenchmene-Such is the title of a new pears on the mountain, who waves a wand, and piece performed lately at this Theatre: and, the name of Nannette, the Baron's mistress, is botwithstanding the intense heat of the drawn. Rodolpho, in a rage, declares he is im

weather, the house was completely crowd. posed upon; he draws out the other pieces of paper, and on every one is inscribed the name of ed on the first night of its representation : Nanneste. lindolpho now turns to look on Rose,

much wit was expected; but the piece was and to read his desting in her eyes, but she is filled with common-place jests, which may gone to carry to the Hermit a cake and a pot of be heard every day on the Boulevards.butter; Rodolpho pursues her, and the young | The scene lies at an estate in England, and damsel is bewildered in finding her way through it seemed as if it was at an election, there a forest. Worn out with fatigue, she falls

was such a hubbub, hissing, and hooting. asleep, and a dream presents to her the image of her future destiny. She sees herself united to a

The intention of the author was to ridicule Count Roger, who, under the disguise of a simple | the anglomania by which Freuchmen are villager, has been at the col of Bertha to pay his at present governed; but it seems that he addresses to Rose. She is awakened by a clap of had only studied those kind of manners thunder; and she sees Rodolpho, in possession of which were adopted in the age of Louis an enchanted ring, whereby he is enabled to tri

XV. If Frenchmen are to be reproached umph over every female heart; he believes she is

now with changing their manners, they already his prey ; but Rose had received from the Hermit a riding bood, which, while it re are yet very far from being like Englishmained on her head, would always act as a powerful preservative of her chastity; she langhs at THEATRE DE LA GAITE.—A trifling the ring of Rodolpho, escapes him, and sets for- piece has been brought out at this Theatre, ward on her way to the hermitage ; but when

entitled The Little Beggar Boy. A child she arrives there, instead of finding the Hermit, she again meets with Rodolpho, who has got rid

of eight years old, from a refinement of of the master of the house by sending him out

filial affection, takes it in bis head to run on a charitable message; and in his absence he away from school to attach himself to the puts on his robe, a white beard, and conceals his begging fraternity, and immediately deface under a capuchiu's cowl. To add to ber posits in the hands of his mother whatever misfortune, Rose has thrown off her riding-hood. he gains from the compassion of the public, Rodolpho has recourse to violence, and it seems impossile for liis victim to escape; wben, all on

The audience were in raptures with the a sudden, the bermitage disappears, and makes premature heroism of the boy, and ex. room for Count Roger's palace, wherein is found pressed an ardent desire to see the author, the Hermit, Mademoiselle Bertha, Rodolpho, and who was anxious to remain unknown. Rose d'Amour ; the mystery of Rose's birth is THEATRE DE LA RUE DE CHARTRES. elucidated-she proves to be the wiece of Rodolpho ; she marries Count Roger, and their | Harlequin Jealous ; or, Suck a Rival as is union brings abuut a sincere reconciliation be seldom seen. This is a kind of Vaudeville, eween the two pobles, whose ancient ennities had which, even to be endured, wants originallong divided the two families. Rodolpho becomes || ity of idea, wit in the dialogue, and some as mild as a lamb, and declares, that the virtues measure in its versification. A cross purof Count Roger have made him emulous of tread.

pose, founded on the loss of a canary-bird, ing in his steps.

forms the chief thread of the plot. Har The great fault in this plot is the in-lequin, who finds his mistress in tears, and utility of the episodes. Rose, too, in never who overhears her lamentations on the leaving off her ridiug-hood till the last II want of attachment in ber darling, is per.

men.

VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

43

suaded that there is a rival in the case ; and those, who, in ages less marked by woi)this is sufficient to excite his jealousy, which derful inventions than the present, kept, gives title to a piece that no dramatist with unrestrained sway, the sceptre of would find himself jealous at not being the knowledge as their own exclusive right, author of.

and held the lovelier part of creation in the fetters of ignorance.

Certainly the work before us is not ex, THEATRE AT VIENNA.

actly of a nature to form ove of the most At this Theatre a tragedy has been lately pleasing for feminine study, yet it is wrote répresented, entitled Sapho, which seems to in clear and elegant language; and when form a tissue of various kinds of novelties: the delicate and fragile fair one shall, in the in the first place, the subject is antique—a crowded theatre or assembly, breathe à very rare thing among the Germans, who || pure and wholesome air, she will know, on seldom celebrate any thing above domestic the perusal of this work, to whom she is facts ; secondly, in spite of all the pre- obliged, and learn to prize the sanative judices which the author bad to fight blessing imparted by useful science. against, he obtained a complete success, The Belle Assembléé is also frequently of, rather, carried off a triumph, of which honoured by being perused by men of the the dramatic history of Germany never be- | first scientific abilities; they, too, will kuow fore has furnished an instance. After the

how to estimate the advantages of such an third act, he was obliged to make his invention, reduced to the most successful appearance on the stage ; crowned after practice, and highly requisite to be encouthe fifth, he was conducted, in procession, raged as a preservative of health, in a region to his own dwelling. The next day, ho

so replete with the smoke of coal as Lonpoured by the beneficence of his sovereign, | don, and in its numerous places of divera considerable subscription was opened for sion, and other crowded assemblies. bim, which was full in a few hours. The

We shall now proceed to give a few German critics speak of the tragedy of this striking extracts from this work, which we young man, who has written but little be earnestly request our readers to pay par. fore, in the following terms:

ticular attention to, if they would wish to Sapho is a tragedy written in iambic verse, preserve that best of all earthly blessings, without rhyme, or even without the rules of pro- health, and lengthen the short period of sody, if we except an ode to Vevus. Tbeauthor existence allotted to human nature. bas imposed upon himself those difficulties hitherto unkoown to us: he has only six speaking characters; and, what is unheard of in the German drama, he has confined himself to observe “ The air of our atmosphere is composed of the three famous unities, pretendedly cited as oxygen, nitrogen or azote, and a little curbonic those of Aristotle: yet tbis bold young man has acid. The oxygen, in breathing is absorbed by fonnd the art of avoiding those rocks, on which the lungs, and is so essential to life, that, in air, even so mang very excellent French tragedians deprived of it, all animals instantly perish. It have split; but he has not sacrificed, as they have bas hence been called vital air, lu air, containdone, truth, interest, probability, local situations, ing less than the natural proportion of oxygen, and circumstances, to frivolity.”

although an animal does not die, its vigour is immedately impaired; and if the privation be

long continued, disease and death are the certain LITERARY INTELLIGENCE. consequences.

“ du animal, in breathing, not only vitiates

the air about it by abstracting the oxygen, but On Conducting Air by Forced Ventilation, also by loading it with poxious eft via from the

and Regulating the Temperature in Dwell. Jungs and skin: the existence of which is fa. ings, fc, By the Marquis de Chabannes. 'niliarly proved in the case of the dog, wbich by Many of the females of Great Britain the nose alone can follow his master.

“ We have thus an explanation of the dread. are now well versed in science; and their abilities prove to an eulightened world,

ful consequences which have been experienced

from breathing air in situations either altogether and to the liberal mind devoid of prejudice, contiged, or ill-ventilated; as ibe suffocation in that they are equally capable of acquiring the Black Hole at Caicntia, the fevers and other a koowledge of the arts and sciences with il diseases of prisons, hospitals, and ships, &c.;

ON AIR AND ITS PROPERTIES RELATIVE TO

RESPIRATION

REVIEW OF NEW PUBLICATIONS.

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