PREFACE ΤΟ THE FIRST EDITION. THE Volume now submitted to the public is intended to supply the traveller with a Guide Book to the Papal States, including Rome with its Contorni, and those cities of Etruria which lie between the Arno and the Northern Campagna. It includes also the two great roads from Florence to Rome, by Perugia and Siena. It was originally intended to comprise the Papal States and the kingdom of the Two Sicilies in a single volume; but as the work proceeded it was found impossible to do so without making it too bulky to be convenient to the traveller, and destroying its uniformity with the rest of the series which has been honoured with so large a share of approbation. The Central and Southern States of Italy are perhaps of greater interest than any other part of Europe: it has therefore been considered more desirable to describe them in separate volumes than to pass lightly over their historical scenes, or curtail the accounts of a large number of provincial cities, whose names are scarcely to be found in any other Guide Book. The present volume is on the 'exact plan of the Hand-Books for Germany, Switzerland, and Northern Italy, but is the work of a different author. It is the result of two journeys into Italy, and of an anxious desire to do justice to the country and the people by studying their characters on the spot, and by acquiring a personal knowledge not only of the great capitals, but of those remoter districts which are rich in historical and artistic associations beyond any other portions of the peninsula. The account of Rome will be found arranged on a more systematic plan than has hitherto been adopted. Instead of describing it in districts, the objects have been classified under separate heads, in order that the traveller may be enabled at a single glance to ascertain how much or how little it contains of any particular class. The materials for this portion of the work were collected, in the first instance, during a residence in the capital for a considerable period in 1837 and 1838, and have been verified and enlarged by two subsequent visits. In a work of this kind, embracing so great a variety of subjects, there must necessarily be deficiencies: Any corrections or additions, the result of personal observation, authenticated by the names of the parties who are so obliging as to communicate them to the "Editor of the Hand-Books for Travellers," under cover to the Publisher, will be thankfully employed for future editions. The volume which will follow this will include the continental dominions of the King of Naples, the roads leading into them from the Papal States, and the island of Sicily. ERRATA. Page 113. column 2. line 38. for " Marrini" read "Marini." 160. 166. 192. 211. 215. 426. 488. 501. 1. last line, for "palace" read "place." 1. line 22. for "Nicholas VI." read " Nicholas IV. 1. line 4. for "Miles" read" Posts." 2. line 53. for "Cosmo " read "Como." 1. line 8. for "tomb " read "front." 1. line 37. for "S. M. Ava Coeli " read "S. M. Ara Cœli. 1. last line, for "Minutius "read" Manutius." INTRODUCTION. 1. General Topography.-2. Government.-3. Justice.-4. Revenue.-5. Ecclesiastical Establishment.-6. Army and Navy.-7. Education.-8. Commerce and Manufactures. —9. Agriculture.-10. Characteristics of the Country. 11. Pelasgic Architecture.-12. Cyclopean Architecture.-13. The Etruscans. -14. The Romans. —15. Christian Architecture.-16. Christian Sculpture. -17. Schools of Painting.-18. Books.-19. Chronological Tables. 1. GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. At THE Papal States are bounded on the north by the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, on the east by the Adriatic, on the south-east by Naples, on the south-west by the Mediterranean, and on the west by Tuscany and Modena. The superficial area, according to Boscowich, is 18,117 Roman square miles; other authorities compute it as 13,000 or 14,000 Italian square miles, of 60 to a degree, and it has recently been estimated by government surveys at 13,017 Italian square miles. The population in 1826, by the government returns, was 2,592,329; in 1833 the Raccolta gave a population of 2,732,436, showing an increase in the seven years of 140,107, being at the rate of 20,015 per annum. this rate of increase the population in 1847 was 3,012,646, giving to the superficial area of 13,000 miles a ratio of rather less than 240 souls for every square mile. It is calculated, however, that only a third part of the surface is cultivated, and a considerable portion of the country is very thinly inhabited. Of its numerous rivers, the Tiber only is navigable: on the coast of the Adriatic, the Tronto and the Metauro are the most important, and the mouths of a few others serve as harbours for the light fishing craft of the gulf. The two great ports are Civita Vecchia and Ancona; the ancient harbours of Terracina and Porto d'Anzo have been rendered useless to vessels of large burden, by immense deposits of sand. The principal lakes are those of Thrasimene or Perugia, Bolsena, and Bracciano. The territories comprised in the Papal States have been acquired at various periods, by inheritance, by cession, and by conquest. In the eighth century, the Duchy of Rome, which constituted the first temporal possession of the Holy See, was conferred by Pepin and Charlemagne on Stephen II., with a large portion of the exarchate of Ravenna, which they had conquered from the Lombards. The duchy extends along the sea-coast, from Terracina to the mouth of the Tiber, and includes the southern Campagna, the Pontine marshes, and the Sabine and Volscian hills. In the eleventh century the Duchy of Benevento became the property of the Holy See, by the cession of the emperor Henry II. to Leo IX., in exchange for the revenues of the city of Bamberg. In the twelfth century, the allodial possessions of the countess Matilda passed by inheritance to the church; that portion of them, which is well known as the Patrimony of St. Peter, extends from Rome to Bolsena, including the coast line from the mouth of the Tiber to the Tuscan frontier. The march of Ancona and the duchy of |