a company on foot (being now within the inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from St. Omers and the frontiers) which we drew very near to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were ordered and led by a captain of our train; but, as we were on the speed, they called out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among them armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. The next day, we marched in good order, the passage being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it made the skin peel off.

I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat ; hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but the gentleman being in bed, we were dismissed.

Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited.

The next morning by four, we set out for Canterbury, where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that very day twelve months before I met at sea going for France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the next morning.

5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', where was a gentlewoman called Everard, who was a very great chymist.

Sunday 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went thither and found one at exercise in the chapel, after their way; thence, to St. James's, where another was preaching in the court abroad.

17th. I went to London to obtain a pass,* intending but a short stay in England.

* As follows: "These are to will and require you to permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and other necessaries, unto any port of France, without any your lets or moles

25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and my sister Glanville; the country was now much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State, as then called.

4th August. I heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties.

6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me an excellent copy of Titian.

12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, though not without extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the Rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe, himself, where I had not so much as my trunk opened.

13th. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind not favourable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about one o'clock; about five in the morning, we had a long boat to carry us to land, though at a good distance; this we willingly entered, because two vessels were chasing us; but, being now almost at the harbour's mouth, through inadvertency there brake in upon us two such heavy seas, as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehensive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into the pier, and so, God be thanked! we got to Calais, though wet.

tations, of which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650. "Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, appointed by authority of Parliament,

"Jo. BRADSHAWE, President.

"To all Customers, Comptrollers, and Searchers, and

all other officers of the Ports, or Customs."

Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing, "The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] M[emory]," Endorsed by Evelyn, "The Pass from the Council of State, 1650."

Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers.

16th. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1400 horse and foot (amongst them was a captain whom I knew), being come to town, I took horses for myself and servant, and marched under their protection to Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, cattle, and whatever came in their way; but they had such ill pay, that they were ready themselves to starve.

As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the guards doubled, and everybody running with their moveables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within five leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this part of France at this time.

The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months only.

1st September. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives. Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife had baptized.

October 15th. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterwards Lord Treasurer) and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent on a treat; they shot so exact, that it was a drawn match.

November 1st. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going on his journey towards Italy; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty's Household, the Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen's Maids of Honour.

6th. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom was set upon in the street before our house, and received two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my friends.

16th. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patroness of Musicians.

News arrived of the death of the Princess of Orange of the small pox.

14th December. I went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold; it is certain he had lived some time in Paris in extraordinary splendour, but I found him to be an egregious cheat.

22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me.

31st. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this year to 7,015 livres, near £600 sterling.

1650-1. 1st January. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had long been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those countries, the Arabs especially.

27th. Ihadletters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grandmother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity and piety.

29th. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Ormond and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this day at chapel.

9th February. Cardinal Mazarine was proscribed by Arrêt du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.

23rd. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of Hermits; a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden on the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and a delicate prospect toward the city.

24th. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also dancing on the rope; but, above all, surprising to those who were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter,* who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. For a piece of money, he discovered the secret to me. waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, who, being an excellent chymist, showed me his laboratory, and

I

* Floriand Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England. Prefixed to an Account of his exploits, is a woodcut of him.

rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both physician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He showed me as a rarity some of antimony:* he had cured Monsieur Senatan of a desperate sickness, for which there was building a monumental altar that was to cost £1500.

11th March. I went to the Châtelet, or prison, where a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was charged, which was thus: they first bound his wrist with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to an iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor, and then his feet with another cable, fastened about five feet farther than his utmost length to another ring on the floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the rope which bound his feet which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary manner, he having only a pair of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they questioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, and a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this agony, confessing nothing, the executioner with a horn (just such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity of two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and affrighted any one to see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then let him down, and carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I know not; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly averred him to be the man, and the fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be racked, betrayed some guilt; the Lieutenant was also of that opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture; and so it seems they

Qu. Some preparation of it, since perfected by Dr. James, whose name it now bears.