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change accomplished in the world by the the most pathetic history a history, mission of the Son of Man, and in vain which not only extörts tears by its beauseeking that Temple, not one stone of ty, but whose consequences, applied to which is left upon another. Were I to the universe, have changed the face of live a thousand years, never should I for the earth. I had just beheld the monu. get that desert, which yet seems to be ments of Greece, and my mind was still pervaded by the greatness of Jehovah, profoundly impressed with their granand the terrors of Death."
deur; but how far inferior were the sensa: How fully is the authenticity of the tions which they excited to those which Gospel confirmed, by tracing the ves
I felt at the sight of the places commes tiges of all those spots rendered sacred
morated in the Gospel !"-"The Fathers by the sufferings of our Saviour, or by of the Holy Land determined to confer
on me an honour which I had neither the miracles he performed there!
solicited nor deserved. In consideration These particular places, through the of the feeble services which, as they said, lapse of time, and the contention of I had rendered to Religion, they requeststates, have still continued to be clear. ed me to accept the Order of the Holy ly ascertained ; and the Tomb of Jesus Sepulchre. This order, of high antiquity Christ has been defended by the zeal in Christendom, though its origin may of some religious devotees, of whoin not date so far back as the time of St. M. Chateaubriand says,
Helena, was formerly very common in “We see then the unfortunate Fathers, Europe. At present it is scarcely ever the guardians of the Tomb of Christ, met with except in Spain and Poland: solely occupied for several centuries in
the superior of the Latin convent, as defending themselves day by day, against guardian of the Holy Sepulchre, bas every species of tyranny and insult. We alone the right to courter it. We left the see them obliged to obtain permission to
Convent at one o'clock, and repaired to subsist, to bury their dead, &c. Some
the church of the Holy Sepulchre. We times they are forced to ride without
went into the Chapel belonging to the occasion, that they may be necessitated
Latin Fathers; the doors were carefully to pay the duties; at others, a Turk proshut, lest the Turks should perceive the claims himself their drogman in spite of
arms, which might cost the religious them, and demands a salary from the their lives. The Superior put on his community. The most absurd inven- pontifical habits
the lamps and tapers tions of Oriental despotism are exhausted
were lighted ; all the brethren present against these hapless Monks. In vain do they obtain, for exorbitant sums, orders
formed a circle round me, wir
. which apparently secure them from all they sung the Veni Creator in a low this ill-usage: these orders are not obey- voice, the Superior stepped up to the ed: each successive year witnesses a new
altar, and I fell on my knees at his feet. oppression, and requires a new firman."
The spurs and sword of Godfrey de BouThe rapacity and despotism of the the Holy Sepulchre: two of the religious,
illon were taken out of the Treasury of Turks is represented as truly disgust- standing one on each side of me, held ing: but with feelings of real pleasure the venerable relicks. The Superior rehave we accompanied the pious Cha- cited the accustomed prayers, and asked teaubriand in his visits to the Church me the usual questions; he then put the of the Holy Sepulchre ; in his peregri- spurs on my heels, and struck me thrice nations round Jerusalem, his excur. over the shoulders with the sword; on sions to the Dead Sea, the Jordan, &c.; which the religious began to-sing the and regret that our limits will not al. Te Deum, while the Superior prolow us to do justice to his descrip- nounced this prayer over my head : tions. To the Work itself we must re
• Lord God Almighty, bestow thy fer our Readers, concluding with his grace and thy blessing on this thy s Observations on Mount Calvary, and
vant,' &c. the ceremonial of his receiving the that are past. But if it is considered
6 All this is but a shadow of the days order of a Knight of the Holy Sepul- that I was at Jerusalem, in the Church chre.
of Calvary, within a dozen paces of the We visited all the stations till we Tomb of Jesus Christ, and thirty from came to the summit of Calvary. Where that of Godfrey de Bouillon; that I was shall we look in antiquity for any thing equipped with the spurs of the Deliverer so impressive, so wonderful, as the last of the Holy Sepulcbre; and bad touched scenes described by the Evangelists that sword, both long and large, which These are not the absurd adventures of so noble and so valiant an arm bad once a Delty foreign to human nature: it is wielded: if the reader bears in mind
these circumstances; my life of adven- the Seraglio gardens, announced that ture, my peregrinations by land and sea, these ladies were going to take the air. he will easily believe that I could not re- In order to do this, it was necessary to main unmoved. Neither was this cere- pass the gates ädjoining the gardener's mony in other respects without effect. lodge, where an arabat was stationed to I am a Frenchman: Godfrey de Bouil- receive them, in which it was usual for lon was a Frenchman;' and his antient them to drive round the walks of the arms, in touching me, communicated an Seraglio, within the walls of the palace. increased ardour for glory, and for the Upon those occasions the black eunuchs honour of my country. My certificate, examine every part of the garden, and signed by the guardian, and sealed with run before the women, calling out to all the seal of the convent, was delivered persons to avoid approaching or beholdto me.
With this brilliant diploma of ing them under pain of death. The garknighthood, I received my humble pass- dener, and his friend the Swede, instantport of a pilgrim. I preserve them as a ly closed all the shutters, and lucked the record of my visit to the land of the an- doors. The black eunuchs, arriving tient traveller, Jacob."
soon after, and finding the lodge shut,
supposed the gardener 'to be absent. 27. Dr. Clarke's Travels.
Presently followed the Sultan Mother,
with the four principal Sultanas, who (Continued from page 140.)
were in high glee, romping and laughing AFTER a short, but useful, Aco with each other. A small scullery wincount of “the Value of Turkish Mo- dow of the gardener's lodge looked diney, and the Measure of Distance in rectly towards the gate through which Turkey,” the Reader is introduced to these ladies were to pass, and was sepan Constantinople, by Dr. Clarke's obser- rated from it only by a few yards. Here, vations on
« the similarity of the an. through two small gimlet-holes, bored tient and modern City;" a descrip for the purpose, they bebeld very distion of the Imperial Årmoury," and tinctly the features of the women, whom a narrative of the destruction by the they described as possessing extraordi
nary beauty. Three of the four were Sultan, in a moment of anger, of a
Georgians, having dark complexions and magnificent vase of jasper-agate, very long dark hair; but the fourth was which had been handed down from remarkably fair, and her bair, also of the Byzantine Emperors; the frag. singular length and thickness, was of a ments of which were obtained by Dr. flaxen colour; neither were their teeth Clarke, and are reserved by him for dyed black, as those of Turkish women annual exhibition, during a course of generally are. The Swedish gentleman public lectures in the University of said, he was almost sure they suspected Cambridge.
they were seen, from the address they A visit made by our learned and in- manifested in displaying their
charms, quisitive Traveller to the interior of
and in loitering at the gate. This gave the Seraglio is thus fully described:
him and his friend no small degree of
terror; as they would have paid for their “ It so happened, that the gardener of curiosity with their lives, if any such the Grand Signior, during our residence suspicion had entered the minds of the in Constantinople, was a German. This black eunuchs. He described their person used to mix with the society in dresses as rich beyond all that can be Pera, and often joined in the evening imagined. Long spangled robes, oper parties given by the different foreign in front, with pantaloons embroidered in ministers. In this manner we became gold and silver, and covered by a profuacquainted with him; and were invited sion of pearls and precious stones, dis.. to bis apartments within the walls of the played their persons to great advantage; Seraglio, close to the gates of the Sultan's but were so heavy as actually to encumgarden. We were accompanied, during ber their motion, and almost to impede our first visit, by bis intimate friend, the their walking. Their hair hung in loose secretary and chaplain of the Swedish and very thick tresses, on each side their mission; who, but a short time before, cheeks, falling quite down to the waist, bad succeeded in obtaining a sight of the and covering their shoulders behind. four principal Sultanas and the Sultan Those tresses were quite powdered with Mother, in consequence of his frequent diamonds, not displayed according to visits to the gardener. They were sitting any studied arrangement, but as if caretogether one morning, when the cries of lessly scattered, by handfuls, among the black eunucbs, opening the doors of their flowing locks. On the top of their the Charem, which communicated with beads, and rather leaning to one side, CENT. Mac. September, 1812.
they wore, each of them, a small circular Signior's gardens; and near them lie patch or diadem. Their faces, necks, many fragments of antient marbles, apand even their breasts, were quite ex- propriated to the vilest purposes : among posed; not one of tbem having any veil. others a sarcopbagus of one block of
“ The German gardener, who had marble, covered with a simple, though daily access to different parts of the Se- unmeaning, bas-relief. Entering the raglio, offered to conduct us not only gardens by the folding-doors, a pleasing over the gardens, but promised, if we coup d'ạil of trellis-work and covered would come singly, during the season of walks is displayed, more after the taste the Ramadan, when the guards, being of Holland than that of any other counup all night, would be stupified during try. Various and very despicable jets the day with sleep and intoxication, to d'eau, straight gravel-walks, and borders undertake the greater risk of shewing us disposed in parallelograms, with the exthe interior of the Charem, or apartments ception of a long green-house filled with of the women; that is to say, of that orange-trees, compose all that appears part of it which they inhabit during the in the small spot which bears the name summer, for they were still in their win- of the Seraglio Gardens. The view, on ter chambers. We readily accepted his entering, is down the principal yraveloffer: I only solicited the further indul- walk; and all the walks meet at a cengence of being accompanied by a French tral point, beneath a dome of the same artist of the name of Preaux, whose ex- trellis-work by which they are covered. traordinary promptitude in design would Small fountains spout a few quarts of enable him to bring away sketches of water into large shells, or form paraany thing we might find interesting, chutes over lighted bougies, by the sides 2 either in the Charem, or gardens of the of the walks. The trellis work is of Seraglio. The apprehensions of Mon- wood, painted white, and covered by jassieur Preaux were, however, so great, mine; and this, as it does not conceal that it was with the greatest difficulty the artificial frame by which it is supI could prevail upon him to venture into ported, produces a wretched effect. On the Seraglio; and he afterwards either the outside of the trellis-work appear lost or secreted the only drawings which small parterres, edged with box, containhis fears would allow him to make while ing very common flowers, and adorned he was there.
with fountains. On the right hand, after “ We left Pera in a gondola, about se- entering the garden, appears the magniven o'clock in the morning; embarking ficent Kiosk, which constitutes the Sul. at Tophana, and steering towards that tan's summer residence; and further on gate of the Seraglio which faces the Bos- is the orangery before - mentioned, oc, porus on the South-eastern side, where 'cupying the whole extent of the wall on the entrance to the Seraglio gardens and that side. the gardener's lodge are situated. A “Exactly opposite to the garden gates, Bostanghy, as a sort of porter, is usually is the door of the Charem, or palace of seated, with his attendants, within the the women belonging to the Grand Sig. portal. Upon entering the Seraglio the nior; a building not unlike one of the spectator is struck by a wild and con- small Colleges in Cambridge, and inclos. fused assemblage of great and interesting ing the same sort of cloistered court, objects: among the first of these are, One side of this building extends across enormous cypresses, massive and lofty the upper extremity of the garden, so masonry, neglected and broken sarco. that ihe windows look into it. Below phagi, high rising mounds, and a long these windows are two small greengloomy avenue, leading from the gates houses, filled with very conimon plants, of the garden between the double walls and a number of Canary birds. Before of the Seraglio. This gate is the same the Charem windows, on the right hand, by which the sultanas came out for the is a ponderous, gloomy, wooden door; airing before alluded to; and the garden- and this, creaking on its massive hinges, er's lodge is on the right hand of it. opens to the quadrangle, or interior The avenue extending from it, towards court of the Charem itself. We will the West, offers a broad and beautiful, keep this door shut for a short time, in although solitary, walk, to a very consi- order to describe the Seraglio garden derable extent, shut in by high walls on more minutely; and afterwards open it, both sides. Directly opposite this en- to gratify the Reader's curiosity. trance of the Seraglio a very lofty “ Still facing the Charem, on the left mound, or bank, covered by large trees, hand, is a paved ascent, leading, through and traversed by terraces, over which, on, a handsome gilded iron gate, from the the top, are walls with turrets. On the lower to the upper garden. Here is a right band, after entering, are the large Kiosk, which I shall presently describe. wooden folding - doors of the Grand Returning from the Charem to the door
by which we first entered, a lofty wall on the door of which, in a nook of the wall, the right hand supports a terrace with a are placed the Sultan's slippers, of comfew small parterres: these, at a consi- mon yellow morocco, and coarse work. derable height above the lower garden, manship. Having entered the marble constitute what is now called the Upper chamber immediately below the Kiosk, Garden of the Seraglio; and, till within a marble bason presents itself, with a these few years, it was the only one.
fountain in the centre, containing water “Having thus completed the tour of to the depth of about three inches, and this small and insignificant spot of a few very small fishes. Answering to ground, let us now enter the Kiosk, the platform mentioned in the descripwhich I first mentioned as the Sultan's tion of the Kiosk, is another exactly of summer residence. It is situated on the a similar nature, closely latticed, where sea shore, and commands one of the the ladieś sit during the season of their finest views the eye ever beheld, of Scu- residence in this place. I was pleased tary and the Asiatic coast, the mouth of with observing a few things they had the canal, and a moving picture of ships, carelessly left upon the sofas, and which gondolas, dolphins, birds, with all the characterised their mode of life. Among floating pageantry of this vast metropo- these was an English writing-box, of lis, such as no other capital in the world black varnished wood, with a sliding can pretend to exhibit. The Kiosk it- cover, and drawers; the drawers containself, fashioned after the airy fantastic ing coloured writing-paper, reed pens, style of Eastern architecture, presents perfumed wax, and little bags made of a spacious chainber, covered by a dome, embroidered satin, in which their billets from which, towards the sea, advances doux are sent, hy negro slaves, who are a raised platform surrounded by windows, both mutes and eunuchs. That liqueurs and terminated by a divan * On the are drunk in these secluded chambers is right and left are the private apartments evident; for we found labels for bottles, of the sultan and his ladies. From the neatly cut out with scissars, bearing centre of the dome is suspended a large Tarkish inscriptions, with the words lustre, presented by the English ambas- Rosoglio,' Golden Water,' and Water sador. Above the raised platform hangs of Life. Having now seen every part of another lustre of smaller size, but more this building, we returned to the garden, elegant. Immediately over the sofas by the entrance which admitted us to constituting the Divåı, are mirrors en- the Kidsk. graved with Turkish inscriptions, poe
“ Our next and principal object was try, and passages from the Koran. The the examination of the Charem; and, as sofas are of white satin, beautifully em- the undertaking was attended with danbroidered by the women of the Seraglio. ger, we first took care to see that the
Leaving the platform, on the left garden was cleared of Bustanghies, and hand is the Sultan's private chamber of
other attendants; as our curiosity, if de. repose, the floor of which is surrounded tected, would, beyond all doubt, have by couches of very costly workmanship.
cost us our lives upon the spot. A cataOpposite to this chamber, on the other strophe of this nature has been already side of the Kiosk, a door opens to the
related by Le Bruyn. apartment in which are placed the at- “ Having inspected every alley and tendant Sultanas, the Sultan Mother, or corner of the garden, we advanced, halfany ladies in residence with the sovereign. breathless, and on tip-toe, to the great This room corresponds exactly with the
wooden door of the passage which leads Sultan's chamber,except that the couches
to the inner court of this mysterious ediare more magnificently embroidered.
fice. We succeeded in forcing this open; “A small staircase leads from these but the noise of its grating hinges, amidst apartments to two chambers below, the profound silence of the place, went paved with marble, and as cold as any to our very hearts. We then entered a cellar. Here a more numerous assem
small quadrangle, exactly resembling blage of women are buried, as it were,
that of Queen's College, Cambridge, fill. during the heat of summer. The first is
ed with weeds. It was divided into two a sort of antichamber to the other; by parts, one raised above the other; the
principal side of the court containing an “ The Diván is a sort of couch or open cloister, supported by small white sofa, common all over the Levant, sur
marble columns. Every thing appeared rounding every side of a room, except
in a neglected state.
The women only that which contains the entrance. It is
reside here during summer. Their winraised about sixteen inches from the ter apartments may be compared to the Boor, When a Diván is held, it means
late Bastile of France; and the decoranotbing more than that the persons com
tion of these apartments is even inferior posing it are thus seated,"
to that which I shall presently describe.
From this court, forcing open a small wards the sea, and on the other into the window near the ground, we climbed in- quadrangle of the Charem : the chamber to the building, and alighted upon a long itself occupying the whole breadth of the range of wooden beds, or couches, cover, building, on the side of the quadrangle ed by mats, prepared for the reception into which it looks. The area below of a hundred slaves : these reached the the latticed throne, or the front of the whole extent of a very long corridor. stage (to follow the idea before proposed) From hence, passing some narrow pas, is set apart for attendants, for the dan: sages, the foors of which were also mat- cers, for actors, musick, refreshments, ted, we came to a staircase leading to and whatsoever is brought into the Cha. the upper apartments. Of such irregu- rem for the amusement of the court. Jar and confused architecture, it is diffi- This place is covered with Persian mats; cult to give any adequate description. but these are removed when the Sultana, We passed from the lower dormitory of is here, and the richest carpets substithe slaves to another above: this was di- tuted in their place. vided into two tiers; so that one half of Beyond the great Chamber of Audi, the numerous attendants it was design- ence is the Assembly Room of the Sultan, ed to accommodate, slept over the other, when he is in the Charem. Here we obupon a sort of shelf or scaffold near the served the magnificent lustre before ceiling. From this second corridor we mentioned. The Sultan sometimes visits entered into a third, a long watted pas- this chamber during the winter, to bear sages on the left of this were small musick, and to amuse himself with his apartments for slaves of higher rank; favourites. It is surrounded by mirrors, and, upon the right, a series of rooms The other ornaments display tbat strange looking towards the sea. By continuing mixture of magnificence and wretchedalong this corridor, we at last entered ness, which characterize all the state. the great Chamber of Audience, in which chambers of Turkish grandees. Leaving the Sultan Mother receives visits of cere- the Assembly Room by the same door mony from the Sultanas, and other dis- through which we entered, and continu. tinguished ladies of the Charem. Nothing ing along the passage, as before, which can be imagined better suited to theatri- runs parallel to the sea-shore, we at cal representation than this chamber; length reached what might be termed and I regret the loss of the very accurate the sanctum sanctorum of this Paphian drawing wbich I caused Monsieur Preaux temple, the baths of the Sultan Mother to complete upon the spot. It is exactly and the four principal Sultanas. These such an apartment as the best painters are small, but very elegant, constructed of scenic decoration would have selected, of white marble, and lighted by ground to afford a striking idea of the pomp, glass above. At the upper end is a raised the seclusion, and the magnificence, of sudatory and bath for the Sultan Mother, the Ottoman court. The stage is best concealed by lattice-work from the rest suited for its representation; and there- of the apartment. Fountains play con, fore the reader is requested to have the stantly into the floor of this bath, from stage in his imagination while it is de- all its sides; and every degree of refined scribed. It was surrounded with epos- luxury has been added to the work, mous mirrors, the costly donations of In- wbich a people, of all others best versed fidel kings, as they are styled by the pre- in the ceremonies of the bath, bave been sent possessors. These mirrors the wo- capable of inventing or requiring. men of the Seraglio sometimes break in “ Leaving the bath, and returning their frolicks. At the upper end is the along the passage by which we came, we throne, a sort of cage, in which the Sul- entered what is called the Chamber of tana sits, surrounded by latticed blinds; Repose. Nothing need be said of it, exfor even here her person is held too sa- cept that it commands the finest view ered to be exposed to the common ob- any where afforded from this point of the servation of slaves and females of the Seraglio, It forms a part of the building Charem. A lofty flight of broad steps, well known to strangers, from the circovered with crimson cloth, leads to this - cumstance of its þeing supported, towards eage, as to a throne. Immediately in the sea, by twelve columns of that beau.
front of it are two burnished chairs of tiful and rare Breccia, the viride Lacestate, covered with crimson velvet and dæmonium of Pliny, called by Italians ļl fold, one on each side the entrance, To verde antico. These columns are of the the right and the left of the throne, and finest quality ever seen; and each of upon a level with it, are the sleeping them consists of one entire stone. The apartments of the Sultan Mother, and two interior pillars are of green Egypher principal females in waiting. The tian Breceia, more beautiful than any external windows of the throne are all specimen of the kind existing: latticed, on one side they look to "We now proceeded to that part of