the extremity of the town being broad and deep, and easily navigable by small craft. There is not, indeed, much appearance of activity in the quays, nor can I discern a single vessel of any description on the water. Thessaly is incomparably the most productive of any province in the north of Greece. Grain of all kinds (except oats), tobacco, rice, cotton, wool, silk, &c., are annually raised in sufficient quantities to allow of large exportations; and if any of the improved systems of agriculture were adopted, the produce would probably in a short time exceed the present crops, in a threefold proportion.

On our quitting Joannina, Ali Pasha furnished us with an introduction to his son Veli, who has the government of this district. He holds his court at Tirnavo, distant from hence about nine miles; and as we propose riding there to-morrow, I hope in my next to give you some account of our reception. He has the reputation of being humane and affable, addicted to literary pursuits, and well read in many of the modern publications. He served with distinction a few years since, under his father, against the Russians; at present his ambition

appears to have taken a loftier aim;-that of humanizing and protecting the people committed to his government :

"To civilize the rude unlettered savage,

"And make man mild, and sociable to man!"

LETTER X.

Tirnavo, April 29th, 1817.

DEAR E-,

WE left Larissa, conformably to the intentions expressed in my last, and arrived at the palace of the Vizier in little more than two hours. The building, though less extensive than the seraglio of ALI, is more uniform and elegant in its structure, and presents a very handsome and imposing appearance. Where the administration of a rich and populous district resides in a single individual, his levées will of course be very numerously attended. Suitors of various descriptions were waiting in the outer court, and crowding the entrance to the audience-chamber; but the letter of Ali Pasha procured for us an immediate admission. The following is nearly a literal translation:

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"To the Vizier VELI PASHA, this Letter is addressed.

My much beloved Son, I kiss your eyes!

"Four English gentlemen (ɛvyevels—uiλógdoi) "are travelling from hence to Larissa; they are "friends to the Sublime Porte, and attached to "the interests of our family. I intreat you to "receive them courteously, and to supply them "with every requisite for the successful prose"cution of their tour; for I regard them as my "most esteemed friends.

The Vizier was reclining, after the manner of the Orientals, at the upper end of a sumptuous apartment; the officers of his household, and others his ministers and attendants, stood at some little distance, forming a circle in front. He received us with a refined and polished cordiality; and expressed, in very emphatic terms, his respect for the English nation. Having inquired what were the immediate objects of our attention, he pressed us warmly to change our residence at Larissa for apartments at this place, and testified a strong

desire to contribute, in any way we might suggest, to the accomplishment of our wishes. He then pronounced a fervid eulogium on the laws and constitution of England, and on the habits and character of the people; inquired to which chamber of parliament my father belonged; and drew a contrast between the state of barbarism so generally prevalent throughout the Grecian peninsula before its reduction by Ali Pasha, and the incipient civilization and security which resulted from the establishment of that chief's authority. He spoke with much gratification of the visits he had received from Mr. North, Lord Sligo, and Lord Byron, for all of whom he expressed a personal regard; and, adverting to the social intercourse which exists in Christian states, lamented that the restrictions of his own country did not allow him to introduce us to any female society! On this subject he very pointedly expressed his regret more than once. He certainly appears to entertain far juster sentiments of the divinity of the beau sexe than what are professed by the generality of his countrymen, who usually consider a pretty woman as a mere passive instrument of pleasure, or,