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This Journal is supplied Weekly, or Monthly, by the principal Booksellers and Newsmen, throughout the Kingdom; but to those who may desire its immediate transmission, by post, we recommend the LITERARY GAZETTE, printed on stamped paper, price One Shilling. No. 709. SATURDAY, AUGUST 21, 1830. PRICE &d. REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS. Narrative of a Journey overland from England, by the Continent of Europe, Egypt, and the Red Sea, to India; including a Residence there, and Voyage home; in the years 1825, 26, 27, and 28. By Mrs. Colonel Elwood. 8vo. 2 vols. London, 1830. Colburn and Bentley. MRS. COLONEL ELWOOD, being the first English lady who has performed the overland journey to India, or, as it is expressed in this Narrative, the "outward bound," and having kept a journal of her impressions and adventures the wishes of several friends have, as is not uncommon, induced her to publish. We have, accordingly, two pleasant, chatting vo"I am inclined to think, that all that we are lumes, just such as an intelligent and "in- Of the Turks, Mrs. E. speaks very favour- told of the imprisonment of the seraglio is a quiring" lady (see our review of Shakespeare's ably. Thus, riding through the streets of Cairo, great mistake. I suspect the Turkish ladies Fifth of November) might be expected to pro- she relates:are under no greater restraint than princesses duce. Many matters, to be sure, appeared to "Our procession was most curious. First and ladies of rank in our country; and the be of consequence to her, which a male travel- of all rode two janissaries, heavily armed; homage that is paid them seems infinitely ler would have galloped over unnoticed; but then followed in file, it being scarcely possible greater. The seclusion of the haram appears then, we are not bored with pedantry and phi- for two to ride abreast, the general and his to be no more than the natural wish of an losophy, nor is a touch of nursling science in- aide-de-camp, C, Mr. Maltass, Osman Ef- adoring husband to guard his beloved from truded upon us throughout the whole peregri- fendi, and myself all upon donkeys, which even the knowledge of the ills and woes that nation. For this relief we are inclined to say, went scuffling through the streets at a prodi- mortal man betide. Whilst he himself dares "much thanks;" and be the more placable gious rate. Each of the party was attended by danger in every form, he wishes to protect with the little unimportant affairs which occa- a dirty, half-naked Arab driver, besides other his lady-bird' the light of his haram,' from sionally occupy our fair countrywoman's pen attendants. The Turks laid down their pipes all trouble and anxiety. He would fain make and our precious time, remembering that dur- as we passed, and I distinctly heard the cry of her life a fairy tale;' he would not even let ing so long a transit she had more leisure to Frankistan' as we trotted by. We rode the winds of Heaven visit her face too roughwrite than we have to read. through streets so narrow, that a person in the ly;' and as we carefully enshrine a valuable By a dedication, we observe that Mrs. El- centre might easily have touched the opposite gem, or protect a sacred relic from the profane wood is the daughter of Mr. Curteis, M.P. for houses at the same moment; and we passed gaze of the multitude, so does he, on the same Sussex, and sister of Mrs. Elphinstone, to long files of loaded camels tied together, guided principle, hide from vulgar ken his best, his whom her letters were originally addressed; by one man. We saw Turks on donkeys, and choicest treasure- his ain kind dearie.' The and we farther gather, that she travelled with Mamelukes on horseback, pride in their port, Turks, in their gallantry, consider the person her husband, who is called by the familiar defiance in their eye,' riding down every one of a woman sacred; and the place of her rename, we beg pardon, the familiar letter C, before them, purposely and offensively sticking treat, her haram, is always respected. Nay, in his good lady's despatches. So much being out their tremendous shovel-shaped stirrups: there have even been instances where persons premised, behold us start from Windmill Hill, one chieftain, in particular, seemed to wish to have fled for protection to their enemy's seraglio, Sussex, for Bombay, by Paris, Fontainebleau, evince in what utter contempt he held the and been thereby saved; so that I found, that and Dijon-by Mount Cenis-by Turin-by Franks; but when he saw a female among the in Egypt I was likely to be the guardian of the Genoa, Lucca, and Pisa-by Florence, Rome, party, it is impossible to describe the change party, and that in my utter helplessness I Naples, Sicily, and Malta; and lo! we arrive that instantaneously took place in his whole might possibly be a panoply from danger to my at Alexandria, having met with nothing all demeanour: the proud and contemptuous air protectors themselves. In fact, Mr. Salt serithe way that has not been met with by our with which he surveyed the gentlemen, was to ously recommended that I should always carry precursors. At Alexandria, the party were me altered to one of the most perfect courtesy all our most valuable papers and money about hospitably entertained by Mr. Salt; and Mrs. and civility; and the most polished Frenchman me for safety." Elwood states that his collection of Egyptian could not have reined in his steed with more It would be a droll change, upon any invasion curiosities, having been rejected by our econo- grace, or have expressed more gentlemanly re- of Turkey, to have a female army, or at least a mical government, have passed into the hands gret at my being annoyed and alarmed by my commander-in-chief, a beautiful staff, and a of the French, at the price of ten thousand donkey accidentally running against his horse. few regiments. Instead of a bloody war, pounds. We hope we may yet say this news Though it was evident he held the Christians wants confirmation, and that neither the refusal, on the one hand, nor the foreign disposition, on the other, has been final. We know that at Mr. Salt's death the business was still under consideration. loway, the engineer, who was lighting the file, had chosen to lie down, and completely Royal, in abhorrence, he saw that I was a woman, and he treated me with deference and respect. and, Indeed, I must say for the Turks, in general, whatever their other faults may be, that their manners towards our sex as far exceed those of As we have gone so rapidly through Europe, our countrymen in courtesy as their graceful we are not anxious to tarry long on the Afri- costume surpasses that of the Franks in magcan shore; and shall, therefore, refrain from nificence and grandeur. Then we saw women threading Cleopatra's needle, partaking of a mounted on camels, riding on immense sadpic-nic, or a climb at the Pyramids, or even dles, towering aloft in the air, and shrouded in sailing on the Nile to Thebes, and re-examining their black cloaks, looking really very tremendthe remains of curious and magnificent anti- ous and awful. In a narrow, a very narrow, quity there. Here Mrs. E. met Mr. Gal-street, a vicious camel, at the head of a long as "Twould be merry in the hall, And beards wag all;" Mr. Murray of our good TheatreEdinburgh, sings so admirably, "They would never see the like again." Dress, however, in Turkish, as in European impressions, is of considerable importance, as Mrs. E. had occasion to witness in their transmutations afterwards, when, sailing with a cargo of pilgrims towards Mecca, she came to anchor in the bay of Arabok or Rabogh. "Upon this spot the first rites of the Mahometan hadje commence. All the passengers, Fly to the desert, oh, fly with me!"" and we among the rest, hurried instantly on her novel situation exceedingly; and at the, was so crowded that there literally was not shore; and as there could not have been fewer end says:room for the hadjes to lie down at full length. than two thousand persons assembled, the "We found ourselves upon a barren and There were complexions of every hue, and scene of confusion that ensued is almost in-extensive plain, covered with tents and cara- features of every description on board :—the conceivable, and quite indescribable. Some vans, outside the walls of Cosseir, at which handsome turbaned Turk-the finely featured fell to pitching tents and temporary awnings, place we had safely arrived, having completed Greek renegado-the wild and intelligent-lookothers to kindling fires in small holes upon the our journey from Kenné to the Red Sea in six ing Bedouin of the desert-the swarthy Arab sand, whilst a band of Bedouin Arabs came days and nights. We had performed it with the coal black, woolly-headed, flat-countenanced down with provisions from the neighbouring the utmost ease, and with much gratification | Negro-the savage-looking Moor-the slightlyvillage of Arabok or Rabogh, which appeared to ourselves. We had fortunately met with formed, dusky-complexioned Hindoo and our to be about four or five miles distant, and neither the robber nor the Samiel of the desert; European selves. There were also several where some date-trees were visible. They of- but in their stead with courteous Arabs and Nubian women and girls, who having been fered for sale, mutton cut up in small pieces of delightful north winds, which had pleasantly taken prisoners by Mahomet Ali's soldiers, a quarter of a pound each, wood, water, &c. all attempered the heat of the atmosphere. The were now sent for sale to the Djidda slavetied up in sheep-skins. The evening was damp trifling disasters and contretems we had en- market: their price was about two dollars and chilly, when in about half an hour after countered, had been but so many adventures, a-head. Naked from the waist upwards, they their landing, the pilgrims began to perform attended with a little temporary annoyance were much ornamented with glass beads; the first rite of the hadje, termed jaharmo. and inconvenience it is true, but likewise af- their figures were finely formed; their head. Stripping off their warm and gay-coloured fording a great deal of amusement; indeed I dress and features much resembled those in robes and turbans, which were carefully tied have often looked back with pleasure to my the kings' tombs at Thebes; they were more up in bundles by their attendants, they plunged campaign in the desert; and, when tired of than ordinarily good-looking, and their whole into the sea, where, after bathing and praying, the unfeelingness, selfishness, and barbarity of appearance was pleasing and agreeable. They or rather reciting certain forms of prayer, they pseudo-civilised society, frequently have I felt seemed perfectly happy, and amused themselves invested themselves in the ihram, which is a disposed to exclaimwith playing with their infants and—if, par long piece of cloth loosely wrapt round their hasard, our cabin-door were left open-with waists, such as is worn by the commonest watching my movements, apparently with much Arabs. Some few threw an additional and curiosity and interest. Their fare consisted similar piece over their shoulders, like a lady's entirely of dry biscuit, which, indeed, appeared lace-scarf. This rite is said to have been in- "Conceive my astonishment and surprise, to be the only food used on board; but we frestituted by Mahomet to inculcate humility in upon repairing thither, on first entering, to quently sent them things from our stores, for his followers; but the sudden transition from gaze upon the exquisite beauty of the waves, which they always seemed most grateful. the warm woollen garments of the Turk to the and to watch the sun which was just emerging Among them, C one day observed an thin cotton ihram must be very trying to the from the bosom of the water, to see the latter, African copying a manuscript, in a small neat constitution; and the more we saw of the pri- instead of rising in its usual circular form, as- hand, which he wrote from right to left with vations undergone by the pilgrims, the more sume that of a pillar of fire! I positively great quickness and facility, apparently undiswere we convinced that the hadje is no light doubted the evidence of my senses, and I should turbed by the confusion and Babel of languages affair, and that considerable enthusiasm and scarcely hope to be believed, but that I find the with which he was surrounded. Some of the resolution must be necessary to enable them to ancients, and Agatharchides in particular, have hadjes put up a little temporary awning upon support the hardships incident to the under-mentioned the same phenomenon upon these deck to protect themselves from the sun; taking. others lay down upon their luggage; but the privations and hardships necessarily undergone in the pilgrimage to Mecca are really surprising. In a cabin in front of ours was a Turk, who, to judge from the respect paid to him, and the number of his attendants, must have been a man of considerable consequence in his own country. His manners were polished and dig. nified: he passed his time in reposing on his carpet and smoking his pipe; and though his suite occasionally betrayed their curiosity by furtively taking a peep at me, he never looked into our cabin, but behaved with the utmost politeness. Indeed, I think the manners of the superior Turks I have occasionally met with, are more truly gentlemanly, and fre quently preferable to those of the generality of Europeans. There is a grandeur and almost majesty about them, that induces one to think they are of a high caste; and, at the same time, they always behave with the utmost civility and courtesy." coasts, where they observed the sun rose like "The metamorphosis which took place in a pillar of fire.' 'Lord Valentia also noticed the appearance of the passengers, in conse- a similar appearance at Mocha, where he saw quence of the assumption of the ihram, was it set in like manner. We subsequently fremost amusing, and even ridiculous. He who quently saw it assume an elongated, but never left the ship a well-dressed, majestic, and again so completely columnar a figure. We handsome-looking man, came back the bald, could but think of the pillar of fire, which for shivering, shaking hadje; and, stripped of his forty years gave light to the Israelites in the Turkish trappings, which certainly are most wilderness. The colour of the Red Sea here imposing and becoming, many a dignified and was of the most exquisite blue imaginable, far magnificent-looking personage was transformed, exceeding in beanty the boasted hue of the as by a magic spell, into a common-place, Mediterranean. The breakers had a peculiarly mean, insignificant-looking figure, seeming as vivid and lively whiteness, which by contrast if half ashamed of his appearance, and not added greatly to the brilliancy of the azure knowing what to make of himself when di-main; but though I could have gazed for vested of his flowing robes. After bathing, the hours, it was too dazzling to permit me to do hadjes fell piously to scratching up the sand so with impunity." like so many dogs, and forming it into little When we add to this description and refe- "Considering (she relates) the immense number of persons in our crazy-looking vessel, the silence was astonishing, though the deck Having landed at the port of Hodeida, our countrywoman had an opportunity of visiting an Arab haram; and as her account of the ladies is the most amusing thing in the book (Vol. I.), we shall conclude with extracting it. "In C -'s absence I always remained in my own room; but one evening, as I went upon my terrace to enjoy the fresh sea-breeze which was just setting in, a casement which I had never before observed slowly opened, and a black_hand appeared waving significantly at me. Impressed with some degree of fear, I which we fancied was beef, till one day, on casual inAt this place we are told-" We had very good meat, quiry, we discovered it was camel's flesh which we were at the moment very composedly eating! Immediately afterwards a boy brought in some young hyenas for sale, which we took up into our arms as if they were kittens,deida, we can safely say we had camels for dinner, and and very pretty little animals they were. Thus, at Hohyaenas for dessert.' 539 immediately retreated, but on looking again, | aware of his so doing. I was now received in | tified with their friendly and artless attempts the waving was repeated; and several women state in the interior apartments, and all the to please me. Indeed, I flatter myself I made peeping out, beckoned me to them, making ladies were much more splendidly dressed than a conquest, for a great boy of twelve or foursigns that the men were all out of the way. on the preceding evening. Zaccara had on teen took such a fancy to me, that he volunWhilst I was hesitating, a negro woman and a handsome striped silk drawers, and a silk vest teered to accompany me to Hindy' in the boy came out upon another terrace, and vehe- descending to her feet, richly trimmed with mercab,' or ship, and he really appeared mently importuned me by signs to go to them. silver lace. All their hands and feet were anxious for me to accept of his services. What I had just been reading Lady Mary Wortley dyed with henna, and they were much sur- should you have thought of my Arab page? Montague's description of a Turkish haram prised to see mine of their natural colour. The women in Arabia are, apparently, allowed an opportunity might never again occur of The furniture consisted principally of couches more liberty than in Egypt, for they seemed to visiting an Arab one. After some conflict be- ranged round the room, upon which they in- be permitted to walk out together whenever tween my fears and my curiosity, the latter vited me to sit cross-legged, after their own they pleased; and once, as we were setting conquered, and down I went, the boy meeting mode, and seemed astonished at my preferring out for, and they were returning from, a prome at the foot of the stairs, and lifting up a heavy curtain, he introduced me into a small tence of the Koran framed and glazed, and in carefully veiled, that I had some difficulty to our European style. On the walls was a sen-menade, we met in the court. They were so interior court, at the door of which were a a recess was an illuminated Koran, which they recognise my friends of the haram again; but number of women's slippers, and inside were shewed me. An interesting-looking young wo- they affectionately seized my hand, and caressabout a dozen females clothed in silk trousers, man, seated in a low chair, was employed in ingly invited me to return with them to their vests closely fitting the figure, and fastening in making silver lace, the process of which she apartments. All the gentlemen were with me; front, and turbans very tastefully put on. explained to me, as also its use to trim vests and I cannot help thinking that the Arab ladies They received me with the utmost cordiality and turbans. My costume underwent the same prolonged their interview purposely, in order and delight, the principal lady, Zaccara, as I minute investigation as on the yesterday, and to have a better view of the Fringee cowasjees, found she was called, making me sit down by as at this time I had on no cap, they were my companions." her side, caressingly taking my hand, present- much struck with the manner in which my ing me with a nosegay, and, after previously hair was dressed, and my shoes and stockings ward bound as the occasion seems to require; tasting it, offering me coffee, which was brought created universal astonishment. Refreshments and we have only to notice that Sir Hudson We have now gone over as much of the outon a silver tray, in the usual beautiful little were brought, but every thing was carefully Lowe was frequently the companion of our china cups. It was, however, so perfumed tasted before it was offered to me-I suppose travellers, being also travelling overland to that I could scarcely drink it. She did the to shew no treachery was intended, and I was India; and that they reached Bombay to a honours, and appeared as superior to the others again interrogated as to my ornaments, chil-miracle of accuracy, through the perils, real or in manners and address, as an English lady dren, &c. They told me all their names, and imaginary, of a navigation so scientific, that would be to her maid-servants. Her figure endeavoured, but in vain, to accomplish mine. when at a loss, the skipper used to put two was light and slender, her features pretty and Suddenly there was a shriek of joy, laughing compasses together to help one another! delicate, her countenance lively and intelligent, and clapping of hands. They drew me quickly whilst her manners, which were peculiarly soft to the window, from whence I saw C. and pleasing, were at the same time both affec-ing in the streets, with one of his servants holdwalktionate and sprightly. The other women ing an umbrella over his head, surrounded by crowded round me with great empressement ; by signs we kept up a very animated conversa- foreign he certainly did look in the streets of an immense concourse of people; and very tion, and when we could not quite comprehend Hodeida, with his English dress and hat. each other's meaning, we all laughed heartily. The delight of my fair, or rather of my dusky They asked me where I came from, whether I friends, was beyond description; but it was speare-as if there could be a doubt of it! The "SUPPOSED" only, to be written by Shakehad many ornaments, any children, &c. exhi- redoubled when they found it was my cowasjee. advertisement after the title-page most truly biting theirs with great glee. They were The master of the house then came in: he states that it is "supposed to have been writamazingly struck with my costume, which they treated me with the greatest deference and ten between his retirement into the country examined so minutely, that I began to think I respect, and, bringing me a little baby with and his death in 1616, and about ten years should have had to undress to satisfy their gold rings in its nose and ears, with all a after the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot;" curiosity: but what most amused them, was father's pride he informed me it was his, and adding, "the reasons of it not being published the circumstance of my gown fastening behind, that Zaccara was its mother. He also asked in his life-time are sufficiently obvious." Nowhich mystery they examined over and over me about my children and my ornaments, the thing can be more feasible. The Plot (an exagain; and some broad French tucks at the two things always apparently foremost in an cellent plot) was in 1605, and the author died bottom seemed much to astonish them, as they oriental imagination. My wedding-ring catch-in 1616; and he therefore must have written could not discover their use. They asked me ing the eyes of the women, I made them partly the play within ten years after the discovery of the names of every thing I had on, and when, understand its signification, but they evidently the treason, and also, without question, before to please them, I took off my cap, and let down seemed to consider it as a charm. Zaccara his own death. Thus time and place adhering, my long hair, Zaccara, following my example, then taking my hand with a very caressing and their fitness fitting, we have only to look immediately took off her turban, and shewed me air, invited me to accompany her, and she to the drama itself for that complete internal hers; the negro woman, who seemed the wit of shewed me all over the house. It was com- evidence which must carry conviction home to the party, in the mean time holding up the lace pletely upstairs, downstairs, in my lady's every understanding. cap upon her broad, fat hand, and exhibiting it chamber,' and I saw a number of small rooms, The Fifth of November; or, the Gunpowder Plot. An Historical Play, supposed to be written by William Shakspeare. 8vo. pp. 114. London, 1830, Baldwin and Cradock; Carpenter. "Avenging hate to all around, apparently with great admiration, with loopholes and windows in every direc- lable, and letter, will be found to breathe of Not only every line, but every word, sylexclaiming 'caap, caap, and also endeavouring, tion, where they could see without being seen. Shakespeare; if not exactly as he is handed much to their detriment, to put on my gloves, They pointed out to me our ship, the ba- down to us by his other immortal works, at with which they were particularly amused. Izar, the mosque, from whence the dowlah was any rate in a perfectly new and original mansat with them some time, and it was with diffi-just returning in grand procession; and they ner. culty they consented to allow me to leave them then exhibited to me all their ornaments and there is not one without its beauties. We had better turn over the pages; at last indeed, not till I had made them un- trinkets. In return, I shewed them such as I' derstand mycowasjee' wanted me. jee's claims they seemed to understand com- poor black Zacchina, as she was called, was the Cowas- had about me. My friend the negro woman, says Percy, the conspirator ;— p. 1. "Methinks the paths of glory are unclogg'd," pletely, and, on my rejoining the gentlemen, if only one who ventured to smell to my salts, I were amused with their description of the and this she did with so much eagerness, that tournament, you may conceive how astonished the tears were forced into her eyes in conse- It ought to be remarked, that our friend they were to learn that I had been actually quence, to the great amusement of her compa- Shakespeare in his retirement and towards the visiting the haram! On the following morn-nions. We parted with mutual expressions of close of his life, was not very particular about ing I received an invitation, in form, to repeat regard; and though I had met with neither grammar; but by the force of genius makes my visit, and I was conducted up a very hand-the beauty of Fatima, nor the luxury of a the same word serve as verb, or noun, or any some collegiate-looking staircase, near which Turkish haram, yet I was well pleased with other part of speech, just as he pleases. So was stationed the master of the house, appa- the simplicity, mirth, and happiness, that appa-" to firm," though a verb in the above quotarently at his devotions, but evidently intending rently reigned in the Arab one; and I should tion (and frequently afterwards), does duty as to have a furtive peep at me, without my being have been churlish indeed had I not been gra- an adjective twelve lines below: Our prostrate altars, persecuted faith, |