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defcription: The lower, or bafe part, is a 1ort of Tomb, rather plain, having no other decorations than four detached perforated compartments, of four fweeps each (two of them topped up). Above this basement are three fall divifions, with columns and arches (fomewhat of a rich defign.) In the fpandrils of the arches are the heads of a King, a Bishop, and a Prieft. From this detail there is little to warrant the refemblance of a Shrine. While drawing this object, and on mature deliberation fince, I have been induced at times to conclude this was the fpot for fetting up the Holy Sepulchre on Good Friday (which was always placed on the North fide of Choirs), as is particularly defcribed in the Hillory and Antiquities of Durham Cathedral, and other writings of the fame caft. At another moment a powerful idea impreffed me, that it was the repofitory for the offerings made at St. David's Shrine, as at the back part of the work are thofe "ftopped-up perforations" remarked on in the accoint of fubjects in the North Aile of the Choir. The ufe made on each fide for the receipt of treafure, I take to have been after this manner that front in the Choir had the gifts made by the great and illuftrious part of the Devotees, and thofe eminent for a life of fuperior holinefs, whom we may naturally fuppofe were alone admitted by the Religious into this hallowed Sanctuary; while the front in the North

Aile took in whatever fums or other matters common fupplicants could difburfe, who, on fuch occafions, we may again imagine, advanced no further than the exterior of the Choir, being fatisfied with viewing the fplen dour of the high Altar, &c. through the open Screens and Tombs dividing the Choir from the Side Ailes. Again, I with thefe fuggeftions no other fanction than they merit; for, it may be believed, I am the laft who would feek to weaken the credit of any anLet tient religious document of art. but one voice cry out in judgment againft me in the prefent inftance; and I will, on bended knees, make recantation of my error, and adore, like other brother Pilgrims, this real Shrine of our famous Saint!

How runs my account? What! fo long a progrefs to confirm my vows, to offer up my prayers for refolution fill to follow the track of fuffering

Antiquity, and thus to doubt, become as one of little faith! Some mental penance I must endure'; that caft off, I am myfelf again; and, hark! the Genius that infpires me (encourages me) to profecute my pilgrimage once more—] e-proclaims, The Monster, Innovation, dies!" AN ARCHITECT.

TOUR TO THE NETHERLANDS, IN THE AUTUMN OF 1793. (Continued from p. 1024.) TOOK my departure from Bruffels in the ftage for Ghent; a clumsy vehicle, which was open in front, with windows on each fide, and which, with all its appurtenances, formed a ftriking contraft to an English ftage-coach; but the inconveniencies of the carriage were amply compenfated by the gaiety and politenefs of the paffengers, male and female. It must be allowed that Brabant and Flanders furpafs us in various manufactures and beautiful arts; but in the conftruction of travelling machines, and in the art of conveying them with expedition and comfort, they are very far behind us indeed. Our firft ftage was to Aloft, 15 miles diftant from Bruffels. The country was beautiful and highly cultivated, and reminded me of the following lines in Pope's Windfor Forest:

"See Pan with flocks, with fruits Pomonacrown'd; [ground; Here blushing Flora paints th' enamel'd Here Ceres gifts in waving profpect stand, And, nodding, tempt the joyful reaper's

hand."

Every field, in fhort, looked like a garden, and exhibited the pleafing appearI was told, however, that the farmers ances of induftry, peace, and plenty. in this delightful country were generally poor and opprefled, and ftrangers to the comforts enjoyed by the peasantry of England. In furveying the country, I could not forbear exclaiming with as it appeared to the eye of the traveller, Addifon, in his defcription of Italy,

"How has kind Heav'n adorn'd the happy land, [band "

And scatter'd bleffings with a wasteful But alas! the rapacity of the landlords, and the exactions of the ecclefiafticks, left the cultivators of the foil a very fmall fhare of thofe bleffings. Take the following obfervations of an anonymous Tourift in 1786, whom I quoted in a former letter: "Never in any part of England (not even in the

environs

environs of the Metropolis) have I feen richer land, or in a more high ftate of cultivation. I dare fay you would find it difficult to pluck an hundred weeds from any acre of cultivated ground you fee. In the fame field grow corn and vegetables together: in one I obferved potatoes, wheat, lettuces, and oats, all of them poffeffing their little tenement, and not interfering with the other. In fuch a country (ftrange to relate!), with fuch advantages of fituation, you do not find, as in England, one rich fubftantial farmer; yet land, for which we give in England 31. or 41. an acre, does not let there for more than two crowns? In fpite, however, of this advantage, the hufbandman is in general poor. It is the want of that bleffing, without which life is but a burthen, which makes him fo. Need I fay I mean Liberty? Could but an English farmer fee the fituation of his brethren in the Auftrian Netherlands, he would forget in a moment his daily complaint of heavy taxes, dearnels of provifions, &c. &c. and exciaim with gratitude, Thank heaven, I am an Englishman!" I remember the road between Bruffels and Aloft was infefted with a great nuifance, namely, ragged children begging all the way with clamorous din, and attracting the notice of the poffengers by various feats in tumbling, accompanied with loud fhouts of Vive le Kayfer, meaning their then fovereign the Emperor of Germany.. One of the paffengers, a facetious lady, now and then popped her head out at the window, bidding them fhout Vive la Republique. I question whether fuch a difplay of pleafantry would be hazarded there now amidst the fhouts of Vive Napoleon. The poor Flemings now feel pretty fenfibly the difference between an Auflrian and a Corfican Kayfer. Let me now introduce the reader to the town of Aloft. Aelft, or Aloft, which derives its name from two Fienith words, Al Voft, in English, All Eaft, being in the Eaft point of Flanders, is fimated in a fertile plain upon the river Dender. It is a fall neat town, confifting only of one parish, and containing but one capital firect, which is long and fpacious. The diftrict of which Aloft is the capital was called Imperial Flanders, and was originally governed by its own Counts, till by matrimonial alliances it became united to the county of Flanders. There are three towns in this diftri&t befides Aloft,

namely, Dendermonde, Grandmont, and Ninove, and 172 villages. It forms a part of the diocefe of Malines, and. uled to be governed by a fovereign bai liff, who was always one of the chief nobles of the diftrict. This beautiful diftrict was grievoufly harraffed by the fcourge of war during the commotions of the 16th century; and Aloft was alternately in the hands of the infurgents, the Spaniards, the French, and the Englifh. In 1667, Lewis the Fourteenth of France, whofe ambition knew no bounds, made pretenfions to the fovereignty of this district in the right of his Queen, and garifoned Aloft; but he rettored it by the the treaty of Nimeguen after he had completely dif mantled it. He feized it again after the death of Charles the Second of Spain, but was forced to abandon it after the battle of Ramillies in 1706; and Aloft went with the rest of the Spanish Netherlands by the treaty of Utrecht to the Houfe of Autiria. The parish church is the only object at Aloit that deferves notice en paffant; and while dinner was getting ready, I walked thither.-It was a large and well-built edifice, though not entitled to the appellations of fuperb and magnificent, which I had heard applied to it. It is a collegiate church, dedicated to St. Martin. The Chapter confifted of twelve Canons with a Provoft and a Dean, who was alfo the Curate of the parish. The interior was adorned with fome very good pictures; but, having no time to take notes, I cannot, at this diftance of time, pretend to recollect either the paintings or the Artifts. I remember being much pleased with them; and alfo with the neatnefs of the altar, over which was the Lord's Supper in baffo relievo, in Italian_marble. On my return to the Inn, I faw ftanding in the gateway two French emigrant Officers, on whofe caps were inferibed in English, Loyal Emigrants, York Rangers." They dined with us, and feemed out of fpirits, as well they might, at the retrograde movements of the Allied Forces. On the road between Aloft and Ghent, we fell in with the Dutch army, who were then ftudying the art of retreating with advantage. They lay encamped in a fine plain, terminated toward the South by a thick wood. They were involved in clouds of tobacco-fmoke, and feemed to whiff their pipes with perfect compofure, notwithstanding the rapid

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advances

advances of the Carmagnols*, the nickname then given to the French. On any arrival at Ghent, the fame difagree able feene occurred that had taken place at Bruffels; namely, a fwarm of beggars furrounding the carriage, and a number of men and boys pufhing one another about, and prefling upon the paffengers with clamorous entreaties to be employed as porters. I remem ber a fierce fruggle took place between two furdy fellows for a portmanteau which I held in my hands; and I was adually obliged to ufe violence in felf defence. I got rid of their imperti neuce by faying that I would carry my portmanteau upon my own fhoulders, which is not an uncommon thing for gentlemen to do upon the Continent, efpecially in the commercial parts of the Low Countries. When I got to the Inn a play-bill was put into my hand, and to the Theatre I went. It was a fhabby-looking place, miferably lighted; and upon entering the house, I thought I had been conducted into a dungeon, inftead of a place of entertainment. The audience confifted chiefly of Dutch Officers; and the performance as well as the Actors appeared to be admirably calculated for a dull, phlegmatic auditory. Whe ther it was Tragedy or Comely I cannot pretend to fay, for there was neither laughing nor crying. In my next I hall communicate what I have to fay about the city of Ghent.

CLERICUS LEICESTRIENSIS.

Mr URBAN, Birmingham, Aug. 4. R. GLASSE, in a paper DR. "On the Affinity of certain Words in the Language of the Sandwich and Friendly Ifles in the Pacific Ocean with the Hebrew" (Archæologia, vol. III. p. 81), obferves, that no argument in favour of the primavity of the Hebrew language is unimportant;" and appears fully perfuaded" that farther re

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The nickname of Carmagnols took its rife from a favourite dance among the common people of France, wherein they join hands in a circular motion to a very lively tune. During the dreadful Parifion maffacres, the mob ufed to divert themfelves with fticking the head of fome wretched Ariftocrat on the top of a pike fixed in the ground, and dancing the Carmagnol round ir. Hence the name of Carmagnols was applied to the French armies, and, indeed, to the whole nation.

fearches "will terminate in fome new difcoveries of the connexion between the language of every kingdom upon earth with that prefumed to have been fpoken by Adam and Noah."

I have in my poffeffion a fall anonymous MS. intituled, “A Conjecture that the Otaheiteans, Zealanders, and the Inhabitants of many Iflands lately difcovered in the Southern Hemifphere, are Jews, and their Language Hebrew," which if Mr. Urban, or any of his learned correfpondents, would with to perufe, is very much at their fervice. They can, perhaps, inform me who the author is, and whether or not the work was finifhed and printed; as what I have is imperfect, and feems to be only the outline of a larger performance. WILLIAM HAMPER.

P. 626, 1. 11, for "528" r.

Magazine."

Ibid. 1. 19, for any r. my.

Mr. URBAN,

"a former

Dec. 5.

W. P. in his curious obfervations on the Leech-worm, p. 727, and which, Belfaft Almanack fome time ago, will in great meafure, were inferted in the permit one, who has alfo been makfollowing queries: whether, by the ing fimilar experiments, to put the following day, he means the enfuing day, when he afferts, that by looking at his Leech in the morning he could always know what would be the weather of the following day : allò, if the window of his chamber have a Southern expofition, and the Leech remain expofed to the fcorching rays of the Sun in Summer, and to the cold and freezing air in Winter? What all in apparent good health, kept in can be the reafon why different Leeches, different boules, and under the fame precife treatment, are differently af main almoft conftantly at the bottom, fected, in fo much fo, that fome rewhile others remain almoft conftantly If he has not difcovered the Leech to at the top of their limpid habitation? of the fhape of the animal; which caft in wuter a fine pellucid fkin, exactly Bouffon afferts it will do, after it has been immerfed in oil, as was the cafe, Mr. Urban, of your Correfpondent's Leech this month. An early infertion of thefe queries, and the favour of an anfwer, will greatly oblige your conftant Reader and Admirer,

LARTINGTONIENSIS.

227. A Tour through the Northern Counties of England and the Borders of Scotland. By the Rev. Richard Warner 2 Vols. have reviewed this gentle

WEmma's Accounts of Bath, and

Tour from it, and his Tour in Wales; and, as he leaves no quarter of the inland untoured, we muft content our-, felves with giving the table of his ftations from Bath to Briftol, by Newton park, the feat of William Gore Lang Jon, Efq, with its ruined caftle, in which it is faid King John was con fined by his infurgent Barons, who were provoked at his rapacity, and its handfome Gothic church, with Latin epitaphs, objected to by our traveller, Keynsham Briflington-BRISTOL, decreasing both in trade and popula tion, in both which her rival, Liver pool, increases. Among the eminent natives of this city are recited Chatterton and Coleridge, Dr. Beddoes and his pneumatic inftitution, and the bene volent Colton. Here are a public library and a fchool of induftry for the indigent blind."The Vale of Glou cefter, watered by the Severn, fpreads out a carpet of unbounded fertility for 20 miles in length," divided into fmall farms, and furnishing provifions at a cheap rate. The profpect of Gloucef ter, with its buildings and furrounding hills beautiful Tewksbury flands in a fimilar rich flat, with extenfive orchards, The country rifes into hills about Malvern, and produces delicious perry. Worcester deferves the praife of ele gance beftowed on it, for no city has a greater appearance of comfort and neat nefs, owing to its uncommonly large proportion of private good houfes. Its china is inferior to the French only in Fightnefs and tranfparency; and the manufactory is particularly defcribed. The hiftory of Judge Lyttelton and Bishop Hough is recapitulated. Hendlip houfe, and the hiftory of the Gunpowder plot and the confpirators, the affic ground of Hagley, and a large collection of familiar and other pic Itures, with anecdotes. The parish church has been planted out by the late Lord Lyttelton, of whofe profigate and fuperftitioully-timid character circumftances are related fufficient to give weight to the ghoft ftory. At Stourbridge is a charity fupported by an eftate which now nets 800l. per annum, maintains 60 children of Old Swinford parih, dreffed and regulated GENT. MAG. December, 1804

nearly as thofe in Chrift's hofpital. Glafs manufactories are alfo carried on at Stourbridge.

Dudley calle; and the mineralogy of

The fecond letter conducts us to

the country is defcribed. Walfall is dingy with manufactories. Limestone quarries abound on the road thence to Lichfield. Into this city we are introduced by an anecdote of Dr. John fon's atonement for his pride in refue fing to ftand in his father's flead at his book-ftall in fome market-place. Since the removal of Mr. Greene's museum, the lions of the place are reduced to a very narrow number. The prohibi tion to erect monuments within the cathedral confines all notifications of names and ages of perfons buried there to the walls of the South tranfept, inferibed on hille tablets of black marble. Previous to this, only three cenotaphs had been erected within the choir, to Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, Dr. Johnson, and Mr. Garrick; the two latter exactly alike. This city. now boafts two extraordinary felt taught artifls in the pictorial line. Burton-on-Trent employs feven brewe ries in making that rich and gluti̟nous beverage named after the town, and well known in the neighbourhood of Gray's-inn-lane, balin of the cares, fweet folace of the toils, of many an exhaufted limb of the law, who, at the renowned Peacock, reinvigorates his powers with a nipperkin of Burton ale and a whiff of the Indian weed."

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At Derby are noticed the filk, porcelaine, marble, and par works. Kiddletone, the feat of Lord Scarfdale, is next defcribed, with its pictures, &c.; an inn and a houfe over a water, like that at Harrowgate, but weaker. Among the portraits is one of Bishop Crewe, of whom fo much has lately been faid in our Mifcellany, one of the most defpicable characters in the annals of Jaines II. by whom he was elected as grand inquifitor of the ecclefiaftical commiffion, at which he rejoiced," becaufe it would render his name famous in hiftory. "On the reverfe of fortune which defervedly attended that mifguided prince, this op noxious prelate, hoping to cancel the remembrance of his former offences, bafely defered the fovereign who had

*When, in the name of Common Sense, will our Tourists write plain English?

raifed

raifed him, and affected to efpoufe the caufe of liberty, which he had fo long and to lately infulted." (p. 124.)

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Afhbourne has a fine Gothic church, and a good free-fchool. Oakover houfe has a good collection of pictures by foreign mafters. Dovedale, Tiffington, Bradburn, Hopton, at which laft the rage of alteration has juft Jeftroyed a fine old manfion-houfe, the antient re fidence of the Gell lamily from the reign of Elizabeth, whofe reprefentative is erecting a new one, and has quaintly chriftened the new road from Matlock to Hopton Via Gellia*.

Crumford, and Sir Richard Arkwright's cotton manufactories: MatLock, and its high mural banks and baths. Chatfiyorth houfe, characterized by heaviness and gloom within and without. Stoney-Middleton, and its dale. Tiddefwell. Burton, with its crefcent and forings, known to the Romans 1. Poole's hole-Elden hole —Castleton — Mam Tor the various mines.

for,, the late Marquis of Rockingham, has the Marquis's ftatue in white mar ble, in his robes, on a pedellal, infcribed with his titles on one fide, and on the three other with verfes and laudatory lines. In four recefies are bufts of his friends. Wentworth caftle, the feat of the late Earl of ford, a heavy, taftelefs building, on an old fcite, the grounds, of which, pof-. feffled of every natural advantage, are injured by an injudicious attempt to add beauty to them by made ruins, Chinese temples, &c. In the gallery is a noble collection of portraits; and in the park an obelifk, erected to the me mory, of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, The cloathing country commences at Black Barnefley, fituated among coal works and engines, and Wakefield. The chapel on the bridge at the latter town, "highly charged with feulptured ornaments, and vulgarly faid to have been built by Edward IV. in memory of his unfortunate father, is known to haye exifted feventy years previous to Letter III. brings us, through a dif his reign. Its ecclefiaftical ufes expired mal country, to Sheffield; its cutlery, with muaffes and obits at the Reforma and in-plate manufactory. Rother tion, and it now ferves the purpofe of ham, with its iron manufactories, from a warehouse." (p. 237.) It was prothe iron bridge down to the Dutch bably one of the fame kind which oc hoe, including cannon-balls, &c. Four cur on Rotherham, Catterick, and almiles from Rotherham is Wentworth most every confiderable bridge in the park, the "gorgeous" manfion of Earl county. Great wealth has been thrown Fitzwilliam. The only antique ftatue into Wakefield by the woollen trade; in the collection feems to be a Colotial there are weekly markets for mixed Ariadne (or rather Bacchus), with a and white cloths held in large halls thyrfus in her right hand, her left erected for the purpofe. It has alfo a elevated; the drapery, the hair, and fail-cloth manufactory, and a cottonface, fil; a fmall flatue of Ifis; and mill. The picturefque ruin of Kirktwo or three more, but many by mo- fall abbey prefents the completeft exdern malters. Among the portraits ample, as far as it goes, of the archi the most celebrated is that of Lord tecture of the twelfth century, of any Strafford and his fecretary, by Van in the kingdom. Harewood houfe, the Drek. A copy of this, by Farl Fitz feat of Lord Harewood, built 1760, is william's mother, is at Milton That judiciously fusted on the flope of at Wentworth cafile is fuppofed a copy hill; but nothing within intereffs the by Van Dyck himself. One is fur mind. The little autient church, neat prifed to fee enumerated ninong thefe and uniform exhibits the monuments a fmall imaginary portrait of our Sa- of Judges Gafcoigne and Denifon and viour painted on wood," and engraved of feveral lords of this manor, and the in fuch works as the Antiquarian Re-adjoining rained cafle, which, gave ocpertory. The mausoleum built in the cafion to one of the molt beautiful park by the prefent Earl Fitzwilliam, dramatic compofitions in our language in honour of his "glorious" predecel the Erida" of Mr. Mafon, who,

Que if the hint was no fuggefte, ya Roman infcrip ion, with the name of Go lis on it, found in the neighbourhood?

What are thefe bu, in plam English, wall of rocks?

How does that appear?

fucrificing truth to effect, has converted the perfidious, wife of Athelwold into a

an angel of light, and fascinated

*We have not yet be able to expel bei ahl, to ex thi o ranted wad from our lang We now alk, unde der oarat ?

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