joins again that principal road at Goldrill Bridge,about two hundred yards from the inn at Patterdale. From this road, looking forward upon Ulls Water, on the left into Deepdale, or by turning round upon Hartshope, the scenes are severally replete with the richest assemblages in nature. A portion of the head of Ulls Water, with two of its islands encircled by a cultivated flat, borders the transparent Goldrill. This flat is succeeded by the sweetest undulations, over which, woods in some places almost approaching to redundancy, dilate in surpassing beauty. Farm houses in sight, and cottages, the church, with Mr. Askew's house on the edge of the lake at Glenridden, give animation to this splendid scene, which is further enlivened by the delightful meanderings of the river Eamont, the whole being, as it were, protected by the eternal guardians of nature, stupenduous mountains, which viewed in contrast with the enchanting variety of the scene below, while the mind expands with wild admiration, fail not to inspire a grateful feeling of religious awe, and to lead the aspiring thought to their Creatorto "HIM Who light himself, in uncreated light No. 56 of the large etchings, looking over the vale of Patterdale upon Ulls Water, is from the side of the hill a little above the road: the oak tree growing out of the rock is a portrait. Patterdale. Those who visit Ulls Water from Ambleside, with the intention of returning the same day, usually refresh at Patterdale. If it is intended to dine there, the hostess being acquainted with the length of the excursion from the inn, will be in readiness to serve up dinner on the return of the party to the house. Such as wish to remain more than one day at Patterdale, may discharge their horses on arriving there, and as no post horses are kept at Patterdale, they may obtain more, when wanted, from either Ambleside or Penrith. Many travellers wishing to leave the country at Penrith, take a boat at Patterdale, which lies at the head of Ulls Water, to Powley Bridge, at its foot. In fine weather this is a charming aquatic movement: some even having carriages, pass by water the whole length of the lake, from which they may frequently see those carriages in their progress, on the land and enter them, if from unfavourable changes this should appear desirable. The head of Ulls Water lies south-west of of its foot: the lake is of an irregular figure, and composed of three unequal reaches, the middle of which is somewhat larger than the northen one; the shortest is seen from the inn at Patterdale, and is not half the length of either of the others. Ulls Water is less unequal in its breadth than the other lakes; it is in many places not more than half a mile across, and seldom exceeds a mile; it is less than Windermere, but larger than the rest of the English lakes: it lies engulphed at the feet of majestic mountains, which rise sublimely from the valley. Place Fell descends into the lake almost perpendicularly from a vast height it skirts the lake from Birk Fell Force higher than its head. The opposite mountains are less uniform, their summits are removed to various and greater distances from the water, and the rocks project from their surface in a bold and imposing manner. Were these mountains divested of wood, they would be only rivalled in grandeur by those of Wast Water. Nothing can exceed the dresses and the decorations of this majestic scene. The whole space from Gowbarrow to the inn at Patterdale is one rich but varied display of vegetation; oak, ash, birch, and alder, in the wildest luxuriance, here flourish, impending over the rocky protuberances every where starting from the mountains; and, in every respect, this is one of the loveliest of the lovely districts bordering the lakes. Those who travel post see little: many travellers would fly, as on "the wings of the wind," unless opposed by such stubborn bits of stuff as Kirkstone, and the Raise, or by Whinlatter. With how much more of refined pleasure would a tour be performed, were the party occasionally to alight and "range the fields," directed by an experienced guide, or at pleasure, where, on some commanding knoll, they might watch the progress of the clouds upon the face of the mountains, or their inverted summits, as reflected in the crystal mirror spread beneath; or see the declining sun, with his parting rays, gilding the rocks and trees, which, gradually losing their brilliant hues, sink, at length, into obscurity and darkness! What enjoyment can be experienced by those, who, lolling in their chariots, confine themselves to the glimpses to be obtained from their windows! Many so be-vehicled have passed from Keswick to Ambleside, and from Ambleside to Penrith, uniformly leaving the finest views behind them, unregarded because unknown. A sociable is a better convenience, unless it be on the barouche seat, than a coach or a post chaise, and as heavy carriages are unfit for rough roads, the lake innkeepers ought to accommodate their guests, not only with sociables, but with light carts on the sociable construction, to be drawn by single horses, and managed by drivers well acquainted with the country. Human ingenuity cannot devise a method by which the monotonies of life would be more pleasantly diversified, than by such occasional jauntings. On any little eminence, a tent might be planted in a moment, and from the larder and bins of the cart, the refreshment could be procured at the pleasure of the party. Mountain guides from their infancy ought to be taught the clarionet, the bassoon, and perhaps, the flute, and even the horn, in order to gratify the refined in musical feeling, with elegant and pathetic solos, duets, and trios; and in "sweet echo" with the plaintive tale, which being once well told would suffer nothing by a repetition. Such music on ground artistically classic, would produce mixed sensations little thought of, and less known. It is not in a crowd, in the bustle of a regatta, or in that of the mirthful jig, that the cultivated mind will find the greatest delight of which it is susceptible; but in the silence of tongues as well as elements, where the craggy excavations, during the time of performance, shall be the only respondents, a richer treat will be enjoyed, and pleasure refining on its gratifications shall rise to extasy. The elegant Mr. Hutchinson had a fine feeling for this sort of entertainment, as will be seen from the following extract. "We lay upon our oars some time, reluctant to quit this prospect, and enjoyed the music of the horns; the exquisite softness and harmony which the echoes produced, were not to be described; the music seemed to issue from some resounding temple, which stood concealed behind the mountains, as if reverberated from the brazen dome or marble colonades; and as the breeze at intervals grew softer, one might imagine the voices of a thousand choristers had filled the lengthened "chorus." |