German, without the slightest taint of Gallo-mania, a morbid feeling very prevalent among the liberals of Germany; still I could not admire his adoption of so many French words, in lieu of his own more rich and expressive Teutonic this practice continues to be very fashionable among the higher ranks, although it is evident to the ear of every foreigner, that the soft nasal sounds of the French can never harmonize with the harsh guttural German. When a more liberal policy was pursued in Baden, I had the pleasure of hearing him frequently display his splendid oratorical powers in the Chamber of Representatives at Carlsruhe.

The inhabitants of Freiburg have also their mineral bath at Badenweiler, about six leagues distant. It is situated near Mühlheim, on the high road to Basle, in a most romantic country, near to which rises the Hochblauen, a mountain three thousand feet above the level of the sea, whose summit commands a most extensive prospect, comprising a great part of Alsace, with the distant snowy Alps that encircle the town of Berne and the plain of the Rhine. Badenweiler is not less remarkable for the excellence of its wines, than the efficacy of its waters, and appears from its ruins to have been a place of considerable importance during the time of the Romans, for so late as the year 1784 there were discovered some of the most interesting remains of Roman baths in Germany; they are still in good preservation, and consist of warm, cold, and vapour baths, with a vestibule and dressing-room attached, so

that the visitor may possibly have the pleasure of bathing in the very bath once occupied by the great Julius Cæsar himself. An altar, with an inscription, informs us that they were consecrated to Diana Abnobia.

The inhabitants of this beautiful and very fertile district, the Breisgau, some of the wealthiest in the grand duchy of Baden, are principally engaged in agricultural pursuits; they are generally well made, with fair complexions, and more regular features than we usually see in this part of Germany. The peasants still retain their ancient picturesque costume, and when seen on a fête day, we might deem them groups of figurantes attired for a ballet.

BLACK FOREST.

57

CHAPTER XVI.

Departure for Schaffhausen-Donaueschingen-Source of the DanubeCataract of the Rhine-Lake of Constance-Lindau-Bregenz-Visit to Switzerland-Zurich-St. Gall-Bath of Pfeffers-Return to Lindau

Kempten-Memmingen-Ulm-Danube.

I RESOLVED, after seeing Freiburg and Badenweiler, to visit the cataract of the Rhine at Schaffhausen ; but, instead of the usual, and somewhat shorter road through Ober-Lenzkirch, I took that through Donaueschingen, and which I would recommend to all travellers, who admire a romantic country; but the chief interest of this route is the castle of Prince Fürstenberg, in the court-yard of which there is a spring, said to be the true source of the Danube.

This time, I had for my compagnon de voyage a native of cannie Cumberland, and, although somewhat eccentric in his deportment, I nevertheless found him extremely amusing: he was also bound for Switzerland, not in search of the picturesque, but the fishes, which he intended to seek in her lakes and rivers; he was a perfect disciple of Izaac Walton, his dress was eccentric, independently of rows of artificial flies, of

every shade and size, stuck in the band of his broadbrimmed hat and his fishing rod and landing net, which he never for a moment put out of his hand, except at meal times, were objects of general speculation, wherever he appeared; and notwithstanding he was unable to converse in any language but his own mother tongue, yet he had gone over the greatest part of Europe in pursuit of his favourite pastime,-“ But,” said he, "that circumstance never prevents me from travelling; for I have always found signs to answer my purpose quite as well as words; my usual plan is, to take a piece of chalk, pencil, or pen, and sketch the article I require. In some countries, where I found myself imposed upon, I adopted another plan, and pretended to be deaf and dumb; which was always sure to create a sympathy for my misfortunes, that saved me from being cheated."

On arriving at Donaueschingen, a pretty, neat town, containing about two thousand inhabitants, we found great difficulty in procuring apartments, owing to the fair, and the great influx of tourists and students, many of whom had travelled several hundred miles, for the purpose of acting the Colossus to Europe's noblest river.

Having also paid my devoirs to the source of the mighty stream, I proceeded to visit the château of Prince Fürstenberg. I was agreeably entertained by the noble proprietor, who was so courteous as to become himself my conductor, when he explained the paintings and improvements in the park, in the Eng

lish language, with a very trifling foreign accent. During my progress through the pleasure grounds, I perceived a group of lovely children at play, accompanied by a lady, and, as they were conversing in English, I was induced to inquire of my companion if they were really compatriots. And, in truth, I was not a little astonished, when he informed me the tiny group were his own children, and agreeably surprised to find the lady was Miss, the daughter of an old acquaintance, a captain in the royal navy. Surely the prince must have a high opinion of England, for he has not only confided the tender minds of his dearest treasures to English guidance, (and to none could they have been more safely trusted, than to the accomplished lady in question,) but his château abounds with English comforts, and his grounds are laid out à l'Anglaise.

After leaving Donauschingen, the country became wildly romantic: the huts of the peasants, thinly scattered through the lonely valleys, or hanging on the brow of the steep hills, alone told that it was inhabited by man; for I was now in the centre of the Black Forest, and the few inhabitants I encountered were some of the least prepossessing of mountaineers, with irregular features and sallow complexions. The fair sex, when turned thirty, are perfect witches in appearance, and even the youthful damsels any thing but beautiful; still, their good-nature and friendly salutations made me forget they were not handsome. It is said they are the true descendants of the ancient Alle