baths, friction, and pressure, applied perseveringly for a length of time, perhaps years: by this means he succeeds in recovering his patients, in many instances from the most frightful state of deformity. The charges are by no means unreasonable, and when I visited the establishment, he had a hundred and eighty patients.

In the cabinet of natural history, the Natur Mosaiken, executed by the late Professor Blank, are unequalled. These beautiful Mosaic pictures are formed of various coloured moss and woods, wings of insects, feathers, seeds, corn, flax, &c. composed together with a patience almost superhuman, representing landscapes, with all their diversified foliage, cascades and torrents, the ocean, ships in a tempest, burning mountains, &c.

The Casino is not only distinguished by the exterior beauty of the building, but the excellent arrangement of the interior. The theatre is also very well conducted, and few towns in Germany offer more resources as a place of residence. The nobility and gentry are hospitable, and intellectual, society good, and living extremely cheap. The town is encircled by a handsome promenade, and the environs abound in public places of diversion; and, like most wine countries, the people are lively and fond of enjoyment. On that side of the hill lying towards the Nicolaiberg, is produced the famous wine called Leiste, the private property of the king of Bavaria, and adjoining this the Stein-wine, known by the name of the Vin du St. Esprit: the latter is fiery, and requires age. The Calmus wine is produced near the convent of Trefenstein, and

is generally sold for Tokay. In short, nearly all the vineyards in the immediate neighbourhood of Wurtzburg are more or less distinguished for the goodness of the wine. The population of the town, independently of the military and students, is upwards of twenty thousand.

CHAPTER XIII.

Franconia-Mineral Baths-Kissingen-Bocklet-Bruckenau-Beautiful

Scenery-Fulda-Cassel-Wilhelms-höhe-Anecdote of Jerome Bonaparte-Pyrmont-Character of the Hessians-Ruins at GelnhausenTaunus Mountains-Ascent of the Alt-König-Wiesbaden-Schwalbach -Schlangenbad-Ems-Rhenish Innkeepers-Hints to Travellers.

FRANCONIA, although the smallest of all the ancient divisions of the empire of Germany, was, nevertheless, at one time the most important, for when the greater part of Europe was sunk in barbarism, the inhabitants of this Duchy were distinguished for civilization, and carried on a lucrative commerce with the more refined nations of the East, and to this day have bequeathed their name there to all Europeans. Charlemagne was a Frank; and no doubt can be entertained but that Pharamond held his court at Wurtzburg. Is it not, therefore, absurd in some of the French historians, to say that Francus, an imaginary son of Hector, was the founder of the French nation?-whereas they are really the descendants of the Franconians, a colony of whom settled in France, and subsequently gave their name to the country; indeed, the modern Franconians still proudly term their country "Francia Orientalis," and

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vehemently protest against being called Bavarians, to whose sceptre they now belong. This beautiful country was long swayed by its own dukes: on their extinction, part was annexed to the adjoining sovereignties, and the remainder erected into independent bishoprics; the priests taking good care to appropriate to themselves the most fertile parts, Würzburg and Bamberg, with their surrounding territories; under their feeble sway monasteries and nunneries multiplied, and with them idleness and mendicity. Since the peace, Franconia has made rapid strides in industry and intelligence; and owing to her commanding situation in the centre of Germany, together with the advantages she possesses of a fertile soil, and mild climate, with the river Maine running through the whole Duchy, and thus uniting her with the Rhine and Holland, she will probably again assume a high station, particularly if the project of uniting the Rhine and the Danube should be carried into execution.

Franconia, like Bohemia, is belted by a chain of picturesque hills, in whose bosom are several romantic valleys, with mineral baths. During my stay at Würzburg, I visited the principal of these, Kissingen, Boklet, and Bruckenau, all lying within ten or fifteen leagues of the capital. My first pilgrimage was to Kissingen, whose waters are said to have operated numerous cures in gout, cutaneous and nervous disorders, obstructions, &c. The bath is pleasantly situated on the river Saal, in a most picturesque country; but the visitor who has been domiciliated at Carlsbad and Töplitz would find it dull he may, perhaps, be consoled by its

economy. Boklet, which was discovered in 1720, is only a few leagues distant. The waters are considered quite as efficacious as those of Pyrmont, and are generally used to give strength and tone to such invalids as have been taking those of Kissingen.

After travelling a short distance further, we came to Bruckenau, which owes its visitors and celebrity to its baths, scenery, and the King of Bavaria. The first, containing steel, and alkali, attract those who are seeking health; the second, the amateurs of lovely scenery; and the palace of the last, being usually occupied by his majesty or some of the royal family during the bathing season, is the magnet of those who are fond of breathing the same air as royalty. This bath and its environs afford abundant evidence of the refined taste of the king, particularly the surrounding hills, which have been laid out in well directed promenades, offering to the view many varied and delightful prospects; these, together with the Rhöngebirge mountains in the vicinity, and several romantic ruins, render it a very agreeable summer residence; in addition, the charges at the hotels and lodging-houses are moderate, the society select, and surely the presence of a king so intellectual as his majesty of Bavaria, and of a queen so amiable as Theresa, must not be forgotten, while enumerating the charms of Bruckenau.

Having visited the ancient castle of Salek, once the residence of Amelia, sister of Charlemagne, we set out on a pedestrian excursion to visit the Kreutzberg, the highest peak of the Rhöngebirge, distant four