at the promontory of Skipness Point, are the ruins of Skipness Castle, a structure supposed to have been built by the Danes. The peninsula of Cantire, stretching away southwards, on the left, is joined to South Knapdale by a very narrow isthmus, formed by the western and eastern lochs of Tarbert. Picturesquely situated at the head of the latter is the fishing village of Tarbert [Inn: Islay Arms], overlooked by the interesting ruins of an old castle, built by Robert the Bruce, in which he resided in 1326.* The access to the pier is very contracted, owing to projecting rocks and islands, among which the steamer has to thread its way with great caution. During the herring fishing season an immense number of boats collect here, exhibiting a most lively scene. The two Lochs Tarbert encroach so far into the land, and the extremities come so near each other, that at one time it was not unusual to drag boats across from the one side to the other. The steamer now enters the mouth of Loch Fyne, which here displays none of those picturesque features found near Inverary, and there is consequently little to attract the tourist's attention until he arrives at ARDRISHAIG, [Hotels Ardrishaig; Commercial. Five hours' sail from Glasgow, 2 miles from Lochgilphead, 11 from Tarbert, 264 from Inverary, 49 from Campbeltown. Omnibuses are in waiting to convey passengers to Crinan.] the south-eastern terminus of the Crinan Canal. There are a good many houses in the village, and several villas of tasteful design have been erected at the south end. Lochgilphead village [Inn: Argyll], is on the right (at the head of the arm of the sea of the same name), and on the opposite side of the bay is Kilmory Castle, the seat of Sir John Ord. There are good roads from Lochgilphead northwards to Oban by the coast and by Loch Awe. The Crinan Canal, formed to avoid the circuitous passage of 70 miles round the Mull of Cantire, is nine miles in length, with fifteen locks. Two miles from Ardrishaig, on the left, are Auchindarroch (Campbell, Esq.), and the Bishop of Argyll's chapel and palace. Cairnbann Inn [Archibald M'Nab] is neat and comfortable, and a good * Origines Parochiales Scotiæ, vol. ii., part i., p. 33, contains an account of the expenses of the building, etc., of this castle. station for anglers, being within ten miles of Loch Awe. The river Add and several small lochs are also in the neighbourhood, affording good trout fishing. From this station, all the way to Crinan, there extends a vast plain, on the rising ground to the right of which is Poltalloch House* (Neil Malcolm, Esq.), a residence which is said to have cost £100,000. Poltalloch estate extends in some directions as far as forty miles in one continuous line, and the farmhouses and cottages, particularly those in the more immediate vicinity of the mansion-house, are substantial and tasteful buildings. The arable portion of the land is farmed on the most approved principles of modern husbandry. Before reach ing Crinan, we observe on the right, on a picturesque rock which becomes an island at high water, the old village of Crinan; and beyond it is seen Duntroon Castle. The new village of Crinan is the north-western terminus of the Crinan Canal. Upon the right, on the opposite side of the bay of Crinan, backed by rugged heights and mountains, is the modernized castle of Duntroon (Malcolm, Esq.), and northward, on the same side, Loch Craignish, a fine arm of the sea, intersected by a chain of beautiful little islands, covered with ancient oak-trees. The The sail from Crinan to Oban occupies 24 hours. steamboat proceeds through the Dorishtmore or Great Gate, between the point of Craignish and one of the chain of islets just mentioned. The islands of Islay, Jura, and Scarba, are now in sight to the left westwards, and between the two latter is the dreaded whirlpool of Corrivreckin "Where the wave is tinged with red, And the russet sea-leaves grow, Mariners, with prudent dread, Shun the shelving rocks below. "As you pass through Jura's sound, * Caltonmore, or the place of great hazel trees, was the name of the site of Poltalloch House, before the mansion was built. each. Dinner is served on board immediately on leaving Crinan-charge 2s. 6d. Leyden's Mermaid-Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, vol. iv. On the south are the shores of Knapdale, and to the north the islands of Shuna and Luing, with Loch Melfort opening to the right. Passing through the sound of Luing, between the islands of Luing and Scarba, there is a view of Benmore, 3170 feet -the highest mountain in Mull. Two miles from the point of Luing is Blackmill Bay, opposite to which is the island of Lunga. Three miles further north is the slate islet of Balnahuay, and further to the west the Garveloch Isles. The steamer now enters the sound of Cuan, which runs between the northern extremity of Luing and the island of Seil, a beautifully-diversified passage of about three miles in length. The circular islet of Easdale, celebrated for its slate quarries, is separated from the island of Seil by a very narrow strait, through which the steamer passes. The precipitous shores of Seil on the right descend into the sea in great columnar masses. The steamer keeps close to the shore, passing on the left a small island called Innishcapel. On arriving in front of Kerrara Island, the mountains of Mull, on the left, appear to great advantage. Loch Feochan also opens on the right, disclosing to view the broad-shouldered and double-peaked Ben Cruchan. On approaching nearer to the island of Kerrara, the ruins Gillean Castle, once one of the family seats of the Macleans of Duart, may be seen a little to the left, while on the right is passed the house of Macdougall of Galanach. This island forms a natural breakwater to the bay and village of Oban,* where in good weather the steamer arrives about 6 o'clock P.M. Passengers for Inverness continue in the steamer, and go on about 40 miles further, by Fort-William to Bannavie Inn. This it reaches about 8.30 P.M. Passengers for Inverness start again from Bannavie next morning by Caledonian Canal. *For a descripton of Oban, see page 468. GLASGOW or GREENOCK to INVERARY. There are several ways of reaching the capital of Argyllshire. One of the most pleasant is by Loch Lomond, striking off at Tarbet, and proceeding from thence by Arroquhar and Glencroe, or the tourist may go on to Loch Lomond head, and take the coach from thence by Dalmally and Loch Awe. But the most common way is by steamer* from Glasgow or Greenock up Loch Long to Arroquhar or Loch Goil-head. Supposing the tourist to adopt the steamer route by Loch Long to Arroquhar or Loch Goil-head, on leaving the pier of Greenock a sail of about half an hour brings him to the mouth of Loch Long, an arm of the sea, about 24 miles in length, and about 2 in breadth, which, striking off from the Firth of Clyde, at first in a northerly, and afterwards in a north-easterly direction, separates the counties of Argyll and Dumbarton. At the entrance to the loch are the villages of Kilcreggan and Cove, two watering-places built along the shore, the situation of which is convenient and salubrious. Beautifully situated in a bay on the western shore of the loch is Ardentinny, celebrated by Tannahill's song of "The Lass o' Arranteenie." The Kilmun Hills† extend south-eastwards; while Ben Cruchan, beautifully diversified with rocks, wood, and heather, rises majestically on the north of the bay. Ardentinny House, a seat of the Earl of Dunmore, stands on an extensive green sward at the foot of Ben Cruchan, and close by is Glenfinnart, the residence of A. Douglas, Esq. Leaving Ardentinny, and proceeding seven miles northwards, we reach " Argyll's Bowling Green," a peninsula of confused and irregular mountains, interspersed with huge rocks, caverns, and frightful precipices. The summits of the * Leaving Glasgow every morning, and Greenock every forenoon-see Time Tables. The steamer route, by Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, and Loch Fyne, described pages 449 to 454, is tedious and not equal in attractions to the others. Between these there is a carriage road, through a valley abounding in picturesque scenery, westwards to Loch Eck, a distance of four miles. Here Loch Goil branches off to the north, the route up which will be found on p. 459. mountains, from whence is derived this peculiar name, have a most picturesque appearance. From this northwards, Loch Long is not more than a mile in breadth; and in sailing up we have an excellent view of the Arroquhar range of hills, which present so formidable an appearance when descending upon Loch Lomond from Loch Katrine. Conspicuous among these is Ben Arthur, or the "Cobbler," which rises in great majesty and grandeur to the height of 2400 feet—his fantastic peak cracked and shattered into every conceivable form. At the head of the loch is Arroquhar (44 hours' sail from Glasgow, with an excellent hotel), one of the most romantic summer residences on the west coast of Scotland. Arroquhar was formerly the seat of the chief of the clan Macfarlane; it is now the property of Sir James Colquhoun of Luss. From this the road to Inverary by Glencroe (20 miles) commences. Starting from the hotel, the tourist winds round the head of Loch Long, and, crossing the water of Taing, enters Argyllshire. The road then skirts the western shore of the loch, until it turns to the right at Ardgarten House (Campbell, Esq). The traveller now enters Glencroe, a desolate but magnificent glen, about six miles in length, guarded on the right by the bold and grotesque peak of Ben Arthur. A steep path conducts to the summit of the pass, where there is a stone seat with the inscription "Rest and be thankful," beautifully alluded to in one of Wordsworth's sonnets "Doubling and doubling with laborious walk, Who, that has gain'd at length the wish'd-for Height, Passing on the left a small sheet of water called Loch Restal, the road now gradually descends to the lonely valley of Glenkinglas. At the distance of about three miles further, the tourist is gladdened with a view of Loch Fyne, and on the left passes the triple-turreted castle of Ardkinglass (Callander, Esq.) It is not known when this stronghold was first built, but there is evidence of its having been repaired in 1586. The modern residence of the family is at a short distance from the castle. We now reach Cairndow Inn, where there is a ferry of 64 |