originally for a detatchment of troops under Ensign Munro, afterwards Sir Hector Munro, Commander-in-Chief in India, stationed here to keep the peace after the rebellion in 1745. It was discontinued on the restoration of the confiscated estates, and is now a shooting-lodge of Robertson of Struan. Near it is Rannoch Lodge, the jointure house of the Dowager Lady Menzies. Here the loch receives the superfluous waters of Lochs Lydoch and Eoch on the west, and Loch Ericht on the north. On an island at this end of the loch, there are the ruins of a stronghold of some broken men of the Clan Gregor, who squatted here in defiance of the proprietor, but were expelled in 1531. Crossing the Bridge of Guar, the tourist arrives at Tighnaline (pronounced Tynaline), where there is a little inn, affording rest and good entertainment. From the top of a hill a short distance to the west of the inn, may be seen, towards the west, Loch Lydoch, to the south Ben Lawers, and to the east the Loch and Black Forest of Rannoch and peak of Schehallion. From this place pedestrians may cross to King's House in Glencoe. The banks of Loch Lydoch (except the north side, which can be travelled by a pony but not by a carriage), are swampy and marshy, and the surrounding country is among the wildest and most desolate in Scotland.

Loch Ericht, extending northwards sixteen miles towards Dalwhinnie, is a wild and desolate scene, almost inaccessible. Its banks rise steeply from the water's edge, and are occasionally ornamented with brushwood. In a cave at the south end Prince Charles lay concealed in 1746. Near the head of the loch are a solitary shooting lodge and a shepherd's hut. From its western shore rises the broad horizontal summit of Ben Auler, 3766 feet high, one of the loftiest mountains in Scotland.

PEDESTRIAN ROUTE, LOCH RANNOCH TO GLENCOE, ETC.

The road is carried westwards by way of Loch Lydoch, but that part of the road from Tighnaline to King's House should not be attempted the first time without a guide, many persons having lost their way, and on two occasions their lives, by the badness of the weather. From Tummel Bridge to Kinloch-Rannoch is 7 miles; thence to Tighnaline Inn, at the west end of Loch Rannoch, 11 miles; thence to King's House, Glencoe, 20 miles.

along the northern shore. Nor can parties proceed from Kinloch-Rannoch to Tynaline Inn by water, as no landing is allowed there under penalty for breach of interdict.

TIGHNALINE TO KINLOCHMORE (Head of Loch Leven).

PEDESTRIAN ROUTE.

Tighnaline (Loch Rannoch) to Kinlochmore at the head of Loch Leven, 25 miles. An early start is necessary as the path is troublesome, and two miles per hour should be allowed, inclusive of rests at the two shepherds' cots on the way.

This route conducts the tourist by the north of the Devil's Staircase to the head of Loch Leven, and may be serviceable to those wishing to make their way by a direct cut to Glencoe or Ballachulish.

We commence by striking off to the left from the north end of the Gauer Bridge (that to the right leads down the north side of Loch Rannoch), until a sheepfold is reached, with a shed or two adjoining, where shepherds are usually found who civilly give further directions. Beyond this a mile or so, a large burn issuing from a broad glen on the right is crossed-no easy task at times. Before this, however, Loch Lydoch (Loch Laiodean), is seen stretching far to the south, through a dreary trackless waste which makes one grow chilly to look upon. Another mile or so, and the road, which has been tending north-west (and is good, it is said, all the way north to the head of Loch Treag), leads to a point up hill from which is seen a large extent of moor, with a chain of four lochs, called the "Black Water," "Uise dhu," extending westwards as far as the eye can reach. Through this moor, and in a line parallel with the lochs we have to march some ten miles with no road whatever. Keeping the lochs at a respectful distance on the left, take the moor. Here it is of no

use to attempt to walk-jumping being more like the exercise required. Indeed it is a fair case of "hop, step, and jump" for ten miles, and that over ground so wet, soft, and cut up by watercourses, which leaves the black peaty soil so exposed, as to give one, in Dr. Maculloch's language (while speaking of the moor of Rannoch) the horrors." There is not much danger of sinking, however, unless, indeed, from stepping into one of the thousand deep water holes, or from incautiously walking too near the margin of any of the small lochs which abound in the moors. About two hours after entering the moor, a house may be looked for, situated not far from the side of a loch. But to distinguish it in the distance from the multitude of immense boulders on all sides is no easy matter; and it must present itself to the eye in the shape of a gable and chimneys before the course be deviated from. It is also necessary before reaching this house, to cross a large mountain torrent, which after a day's rain may require more than ordinary consideration.

TIGHNALINE TO KINLOCHMORE.

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Another five miles of semi-walking, semi-jumping, and another stream or two to cross, with the cold solitary lakes on the left, and the high ground before, behind, and all around, and we reach shepherd's home No. 2. Here is the same kind welcome, and we leave in possession of the knowledge that it wants still eight miles of Kinlochmore. Two miles of this are over marsh, after which there is a footpath, but it is one difficult to get, still more difficult to keep, and extremely dangerous to tread. Keeping now near to the water, we soon come upon a startling scene. The water from the lochs, which are all behind us now, falls in a stream over a ledge of rocks, down some 20 or 30 feet, and forms a large black, still pool below. This is the source of a stream called the "Serpent River,' because of its tortuosity, which discharges itself seven miles below this into Loch Levin and along the entire course of which our way now lies. The hill on the right has its base scooped out, in the hollow of which lies the pool; that opposite is convex at its base, protruding into the pool. The footpath is seen passing round the inside of this half bowl, as it may be called, but great caution is needed in walking along it, for the hill is steep, the soil loose, with now and then the bare rock shelving in the direction of the water, the path narrow and often covered with loose stones, and above, are stunted trees and shrubs threatening to let go their feeble hold and come down with the debris, overwhelming the daring intruder on their solitude with destruction. Could we but cross that stream, and up over these mountain tops on our left, we should find ourselves in Glencoe; for these are the northern boundary of that famed pass, and this that we are in is a long narrow deep den-a rent in fact through the mountainous district between Glencoe and Glen Nevis. Our path runs along the side of the hills on the north of the stream, which is now and again entirely hid by the overhanging rocks on each side, whence it issues forth hissing, spitting, foaming, and boiling, as if in dreadful wrath at the torture to which it is subjected. Other two "bowls," larger and deeper, are passed round, and the path leads down to a horrid-looking ravine in the mountain side, black as midnight, and very fearful, and over a stream flowing through it is thrown a wooden bridge, the few feet of which is the best walking to be had after leaving the good road fourteen miles before. Near by this is a magnificent waterfall. The whole water from the lochs, increased by numerous mountain torrents, precipitates itself down a height of at least 100 feet. We have now only four miles to go ere we reach Kinlochmore. By and by, the path becomes less difficult, and goes down to a level

plain or meadow, through which it runs, but soon it branches off into many stripes, some leading one way some another, most perplexing should we be overtaken by darkness. We gain at length a wooden bridge in embryo, consisting of round logs, with no planks thereon, over a tributary stream on the right. From this, an easy walk of a mile and a half brings us to Kinlochmore.

After getting to Kinlochmore, it is problematical if lodgings can be got; for there are only three, or at most four, houses in the place. There is Kinlochmore itself, or the "big house;" then on the opposite side of the water is Kinlochbeg, the "small or little house," and the other one or two dwellings of less pretension.

The place is more properly called Kinloch Levin, head of Loch Levin; but the people ignore the loch, and exalt the house, in naming the place—a custom quite in accordance with Highland manners.

From this there is a road across the hills to Fort-William, a continuation properly of the hill road from King's House, of which the "Devil's Staircase" is the southern part. A good road runs along the north side of Loch Levin, and joins the toll road to Fort-William, opposite Ballahulish Inn. There is also a footpath on the opposite side down to Invercoe, the mouth of the Cona. This path is rather better than that already described though not much, and therefore cannot be recommended, while the good road on the opposite side can so easily be got at from the head of the loch-the only disadvantage being that by the road the visitor to Glencoe will have to cross the ferry at Invercoe, whereas the footpath on the opposite side of the loch leads right down to the foot of the glen, thereby cutting off the ferry, and about a mile or so of a walk.

This mountain-pass, from the source of the stream down to Invercoe, is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary in Scotland. Excepting at the small plain above mentioned, which is not more than sixty yards across, the pass is so narrow as barely to afford space between the base of the mountains for the stream to run in. The lower part, between Kinlochmore and Invercoe, into which the loch penetrates as if it were a wedge dividing the mountains, is at no point more than half a mile broad, and seldom even that width. The mountains on both sides are of great height, the dark shadows of whose majestic forms envelope all around in gloom, causing the loch to assume somewhat the appearance of an immense lake of black ink.

The footpath along the south side of Loch Levin is the shortest way to the foot of Glencoe, and the distance from Kinlochmore is about seven miles. Four miles down is the "Dogs' Ferry," where is a substantial farm house, with well cultivated lands in front. From a

point some two miles farther on, a very fine view is obtained of Invercoe, Ballahulish with its slate quarries, and in the distance, across the widening expanse of the loch, the hills of the west coast between Ardgour and Morven.

Rounding the west shoulder of the hill, the foot of Glencoe is entered. Here it is much like any other highland glen, with high hills gently sloping upwards, covered with verdure to the top, at or near to which sheep may be seen as little specks moving to and fro. A walk of a mile or so, and the wild part of the glen opens up.

Retracing our steps, we may cross Loch Levin at Invercoe Ferry, and pursue our way down its north side to Corran Ferry and FortWilliam, or the hill road (a much shorter route to the latter place), may be chosen, which is seen from this point, winding up the side of the heights in front.

Leaving Dunkeld by its bridge, and proceeding westwards on the right bank of the Tay, we cross the Braan (1 m.) by one of General Wade's bridges at the village of Inver. A mile and a half beyond is Dalguise (Stewart, Esq.) on the left; opposite this, on the other side of the water, is St. Colme's Farm (the Duchess of Atholl). The road now winds along the wide cultivated valley of the Tay, masses of larch and pine-wood skirting the edges of the hills above. On the right (7 m.) is Kinnaird House (the property of the Duke of Atholl); the peak seen to the north is Benbrackie; and on the tongue of land formed by the confluence of the Tay and the Tummel, stands the village of Logierait,* an ancient

* LOGIERAIT TO WEEM, DULL, FORTINGALL, AND GLENLYON.

Following the road westward from Logierait to Weem, where there is a good Hotel with posting establishment, we pass (3 m.) the village of Dull, once noted for its schools of learning, afterwards transferred to St. Andrews.