Mary in 1556 to James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, by whose forfeiture in 1567, they reverted again to the Crown; and the usufruct with the title of Commendator, was conferred.

The most interesting views about Melrose are Turner's, of the vale of Melrose from a point of the road, and the exquisite one from Bemerside Hill, both obtainable on the way to Dryburgh.

Opposite to Melrose, on the other side of the Tweed, which may be crossed here by foot-passengers by means of a chain

MELROSE TO ABBOTSFORD.

109

bridge are the village of Gattonside, with its numerous orchards, and Gattonside House (General Duncan). A little to the west of it is the Pavilion (Lord Somerville, now leased by Mr. Broadwood), and to the east, Allerly, the property and residence of Principal Sir David Brewster. A short way further down the river, on a peninsula formed by a remarkable sweep of the Tweed, stood the monastery of Old Melrose, now the property of Adam Fairholme, Esq. of Chapel.

MELROSE TO ABBOTSFORD.*

The far-famed residence of Sir Walter Scott is three miles to the west of Melrose. On the way to it we pass on the right the Established and Free churches, and a little further, on the right, the Episcopal Chapel and manse, built by the Duke of Buccleuch, commanding a fine view of the vale of the Gala.

About a mile from Melrose we cross Huntly Burn, where a road strikes off on the left to Chiefswood, 66 a nice little cottage in a glen, belonging to the property of Abbotsford, with a rivulet in front and a grove of trees on each side, to

* Tariff of charges for vehicles from the George Hotel, Melrose :

1. Melrose to Abbotsford and back-5s. for a one-horse, and 7s. 6d. for a two-horse carriage. Distance three miles. Post-boys are usually paid about 3d. per mile when two horses, a trifle less when only one; but at such places as Abbotsford and Dryburgh, where they are kept waiting, the mileage is generally counted both ways. Tolls 6d. and 1s.-one or two horses.

2. Melrose to Dryburgh by Bemerside Hill, and returning by Newton St. Boswells, is 7s. 6d. for one horse; 10s. 6d. for two. Distance about 5 miles on one side, and 4 on the other. Or direct from Melrose and back by Newton, 6s. and 9s. ; but supposing the water cannot be crossed at Dryburgh, and the tourist must go round by Mertoun Bridge, the distance is greater, and 1s. or 1s. 6d. additional charge is then made. Tolls 6d. or 1s.

3. From Melrose to Selkirk, thence to Newark, and returning by Bowhill and the south side of the Yarrow. Distance about 13 miles each way. Charge for a one-horse four-wheeled carriage, 13s. ; two horses 20s.; for a gig 10s. Tolls, two, 6d. each for one horse, 1s. each for two horses. Post-boy, say 2s. 6d. for one horse, and 3s. 6d. for two horses.

4. Melrose to Kelso by Mertoun, and returning by the opposite side of the Tweed-15 miles each way; charge 15s. and 22s. 6d. Tolls three each side. Same rate as above.

There will occasionally be slight deviations from these charges according to circumstances and the time absent or waiting.

keep away the cold wind. It is about two miles distant from Abbotsford, and a very pleasant walk reaches to it through plantations."

Chiefswood was occupied during Sir Walter Scott's lifetime by Mr. and Mrs. Lockhart. Sir Walter had great pleasure in visiting his son-in-law and daughter at this cottage, and when circumstances permitted, usually spent in it one evening at least in the week.*

About half a mile further on, is the village of Darnick with its old tower, and here a road strikes off to the left, through an archway formed by the railway, to Huntly Burn House, long occupied by Sir Walter's friend and companion, Sir Adam Fergusson. The Huntly Burn, a mountain brook, from which the house was named, finds its way from Cauldshiels Loch through the Rhymer's Glen, one of Scott's most favourite retreats, and "famous in tradition as the scene of Thomas the Rhymer's interviews with the Queen of Fairy." The walk up the burn side, the steps at the linn, and the rustic bridge, were planned by Sir Walter Scott himself, and completed under his superintendence.

Passing through the village of Darnick, we come to the toll-house; the left road leads to Abbotsford, the right to Melrose Bridge, the only one hereabouts for vehicles crossing the Tweed.

Taking the road to the left of the toll-house, we reach in about a mile further (and three from Melrose), a little rustic gate on the right hand side of the road. This indicates the way to the house, which lies hidden at the foot of the bank.

Abbotsford, now the property of John Hope Scott, Esq., Q.C., is situated on a bank overhanging the south side of the Tweed, which at this place makes a beautiful sweep around the declivity. The house, though irregular in its proportions, produces a very striking effect. The entrance is by a porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns; and the walls of the halls are panelled with richly carved oak from the

* Lockhart's Life of Scott, vol. vi.

For periods of admission, see p. 99. No specific sum can be prescribed as the gratuity payable to domestics in such cases. The amount will necessarily vary between prince and peasant, but 1s. for a single individual, and 2s. 6d. for parties not exceeding six, may be regarded as fair medium payments.

palace of Dunfermline, and the roof consists of painted arches of the same material. Round the cornice there is a line of coats-armorial richly blazoned, belonging to the families who kept the borders3-as the Douglases, Kers, Scotts, Turnbulls, Maxwells, Chisholms, Elliots, and Armstrongs. The floor is of black and white marble from the Hebrides, and the walls are hung with ancient armour, and various specimens of military implements. From the hall strangers are conducted to the armoury, which runs quite across the house, and communicates with the drawing-room on the one side, and the dining-room on the other.

The drawing-room is a lofty saloon with wood of cedar. Its antique ebony furniture, carved cabinets, etc., are all of beautiful workmanship.

The dining-room is a very handsome apartment, containing a fine collection of pictures; the most interesting of which are the head of Queen Mary in a charger the day after she was beheaded, and full length portraits of Lord Essex, of Oliver Cromwell, Claverhouse, Charles II., Charles XII. of Sweden; and, among several family pictures, one of Sir Walter's greatgrandfather, who allowed his beard to grow after the execution